Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner transfer failure
2011-03-23 by Peter Loron
Scotchbrite is a line of abrasive products from 3M. The green colored pads work well. I got good results by using the green pad and water to remove the surface
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2011-03-23 by Peter Loron
Scotchbrite is a line of abrasive products from 3M. The green colored pads work well. I got good results by using the green pad and water to remove the surface
2011-03-23 by Randy S.
Anyone have experience with this printer for PCB use? Canon D420 2711B062 imageCLASS Multifunction Black and White Laser Printer I use a Commercial Canon i
2011-03-23 by Eldon Brown
I suggest Comet and Scott Bright and then acetone. See similar details and results on my web site: http://WA0UWH.blogspot.com Eldon - WA0UWH On Wed, Mar
2011-03-23 by David C. Partridge
I did manage to get a degree of adhesion on a test board by using a clothes iron set to the highest setting. But it was pretty patchy. I had scrubbed the
2011-03-23 by jmelson2
... There might be a plastic or oily film on the board. I use dry film resist, but have to scrub the board with abrasive cleanser and/or very fine sandpaper
2011-03-23 by jmelson2
... Right, many of the units have an extra-cost option to do this. I got an Omega CN4800 for reflow control, but it has the ramp and soak feature, and I think
2011-03-23 by David C. Partridge
I printed the top and bottom layouts onto glossy magazine paper on an HP LJ 4050, and they looked just fine. I lined them up and taped them to the PCB, and
2011-03-21 by Mike
Perhaps try mounting the pcb on a thin sheet of plywood to give more control? And yes, try setting or clamping a guide wall on the other side of the blade that
2011-03-21 by Mike Bushroe
Getting toner to transfer on to a board depends on three things: time temperature pressure The final result is mostly a product of the three. You can reduce
2011-03-21 by Tony Smith
Well, my temperature controllers turned up after getting diverted by Customs. I wonder if dope growers use these. They re cute little things, and very simple
2011-03-20 by Randy S.
Well its all been experimental as far as times and temp.. But been using 275 - 300 degrees for 20 minutes or so.. So far anyways.. Randy - N2CUA
2011-03-19 by David C. Partridge
I meant £45 or so plus whatever we agree for a price ... Regards, David Partridge ... From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2011-03-19 by David C. Partridge
I have one of these whose diode sensor based control board or thermostat had failed in the ON state, and has de-laminated front rollers and a blown thermal
2011-03-19 by Tony Smith
... http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78e ab ... Very valuable if you like your fingers. You use that instead of your
2011-03-19 by Alessio Sangalli
... thanks. Now I have a request for who is already using the tile saw for PCB: would you make a small video for the generations to come? bye as
2011-03-19 by Andrew Volk
I don t think that that push block has much value for things less than 3 inches wide. It is okay for tile, maybe. The drawing that Eldon sent is a better one
2011-03-19 by Alessio Sangalli
... Sorry for the typos. We also study English, but I was typing while holding my son :) PS apparently the table saw comes with something called a pusg block
2011-03-19 by Alessio Sangalli
... In my country at hihg scholl we only did: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaper http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill#Drill_press
2011-03-19 by Eldon Brown
What happened to the good old High School Shop Classes?? Please be careful !! Some Good Rules of the uncut Thumbs 1. Always keep the good section between the
2011-03-18 by Andrew Volk
On 03/18/2011 02:34 PM, designer_craig wrote: Isn t that dangerous for the fingers? That is why you use a push block. It allows you to push in the proper
2011-03-18 by Mark Mickelsen
It is easy to see in the video that the board you are cutting is sliding UNDERNEATH the rip fence. That s the problem. Mark ... [Non-text portions of this
2011-03-18 by casy_ch@tbwil.ch
Hi AS Sorrrrrrrrry, but when I look at the video, I just think one man is going to once get the piece into his body and/or cut his finger! Eventhough a
2011-03-18 by Alessio Sangalli
... Hm... I think I understand but I am not sure :) Could you make a drawing...? ... Isn t that dangerous for the fingers? ... I will surely slow down next
2011-03-18 by bebx2000
Your fence is misaligned. The pictures clearly show that you are cutting at an angle. I have the Qep 4 saw from Home Depot. It has tiny registration marks at
2011-03-18 by Andrew Volk
Actually, I was responding to another poster s comment about doing it better freehand. BAD IDEA! It does look like your board is able to slip under the fence,
2011-03-18 by designer_craig
First check that your blade is parallel to the fence. Then take some thin aluminum angle stock and mount it to the fence with one flange down against the table
2011-03-18 by Erik Knise
... It does look like the board is going under the fence while you are cutting. You had cut the video but it appears that you did not check to see if the
2011-03-18 by Alessio Sangalli
... Why do people even think I have not used read the manual: http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/3000-3999/3733.pdf Or done a free hand cut without the
2011-03-18 by Raymundo Vega
Any specifics about time, temp? thanks for sharing raymundo ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-03-18 by Erik Knise
I agree with Andy. Most fences don t go all the way down to the table so use a piece of wood or angle iron/aluminum. Using your own fence you can also line
2011-03-18 by Andrew Volk
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top) or a sliding
2011-03-18 by Ryan Bray
you should have a guide attached you your table saw to prevent x-Axis slips. On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:47 AM, David C. Partridge
2011-03-18 by David C. Partridge
You need to use the cutting guide - read the instructions Regards, David Partridge ... From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2011-03-18 by Slavko Kocjancic
... Huh... You can do better with freehand cutting.
2011-03-18 by Alessio Sangalli
Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the lopacki 8mil diamond blade. Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
2011-03-18 by RJ
Interesting update .. I have this thin board .. 0.031 thick and have had a difficult time getting the toner to stick good to it. The thicker stuff seems to be
2011-03-15 by bebx2000
This seems interesting, http://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-laser-engraver/ Baxter
2011-03-13 by Tony Smith
... Yeah, I wasn t optimistic, I figured I might be pretty close to the target temperature when the first cycle happened. If it happens minutes out that ll be
2011-03-13 by Tony Smith
... re-flow ... These ones don t, they just maintain a single pre-set temperature. No clock. I have some timers, but I m not sure how I get the PID to tell
2011-03-13 by Charles Patton
Tony, You wrote, I figure I can do it by monitoring the heater, and when it switches off for the first time use that to start the timer. No, that won t work.
2011-03-13 by David C. Partridge
And I guess only a very few can do profiles with dwell times (think re-flow oven soak time) or do that all do that? Regards, David Partridge ... From:
2011-03-13 by Tony Smith
... an ... Sigh. That s SSR (Solid State Relay), not SSD (Solid State Drive). You knew what I meant. Been fiddling with laptops too much, I think. Tony
2011-03-13 by Tony Smith
... Ok, I looked up the RepRap PID, and they use the usual chip for the thermocouple, the AD595. Sparkfun - http://www.sparkfun.com/products/306 - have them
2011-03-13 by Tony Smith
... plus ... Ok, they re cheap to where I am (Australia). We don t pay VAT (10% GST here) or duties on personal imports (Gov t couldn t be bothered to collect
2011-03-13 by David C. Partridge
Hmmmm .. Prices including delivery to UK and likely customs charges (20% plus about $18), aren t as comfortably low as that. Regards, David Partridge ...
2011-03-13 by Tony Smith
... ... I ordered some off eBay to see what they were like. They re pretty cheap ($US25), so I won t be too upset if they re duds. They should show up this
2011-03-13 by jeremy hodder
David, You could try making one. The REPRAP group makes pid temperature controls for the heated bed and extruder. Jeremy [Non-text portions of this message
2011-03-12 by Kerry Wentworth
The one I have wired up would take about 5 behind a panel, including the connector. That could be reduced a bit, but 3 it not even close. Kerry ... --
2011-03-12 by David C. Partridge
Thanks, I Saw those, but was hoping I might score one cheaper - also suspicious of the anonymous off-brand Chinese parts - maybe unjustifiably ... Regards,
2011-03-12 by David C. Partridge
Kerry, Unfortunately though they would seem ideal in most all respects, as far as I can tell from the manual they are about 6.25 deep, and I don t have much