Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Etching note
2010-06-14 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Copper chloride is produced in the sea and a high concentrations is indeed a roblem, at less than lethal concentrations it reduces growth. One published
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2010-06-14 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Copper chloride is produced in the sea and a high concentrations is indeed a roblem, at less than lethal concentrations it reduces growth. One published
2010-06-14 by Harvey White
... Rubbermaid cereal container, holds roughly 1 1/2 gallons. Has stored Ferric Chloride for over a year, CUCL for a month or three. Ferric Chloride did eat
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
... Copper is death to invertebrates in the ocean. Primarily, that means coral, shrimp, crabs, ... While your concentrations are correct as an average, close
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
... OK, that works. But, you just can t keep on adding HCl and I rather suspect that eventually, you decant some of the stuff and get rid of it, else given
2010-06-14 by Alessio Sangalli
... Wait!!! This was before cleaning the etched board with acetone! It looked like a mess, but now that I removed the toner it is actually pretty nice!!! Only
2010-06-14 by Kerry Wentworth
... Cu and CuCl are two different things. There s plenty of copper and plenty of chlorine in the oceans, but there s plenty of carbon and plenty of nitrogen
2010-06-14 by Alessio Sangalli
... With the muriatic acid method this does not work - I ve tested this morning and the results are terrible :( bye as
2010-06-14 by Frank P
Harvey, Would you give some examples of the plastic food containers you mentioned? And, how long it could be stored in those containers? Thanks.
2010-06-14 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
An estimated 0.34 billion metric tons of copper currently exists in the ocean’s waters based on a concentration of 0.25 ug/L and a volume of 1.338 x 109 km3
2010-06-14 by James
... HCl is consumed, you don t need to dump the stuff and start over, you simply add a bit more HCl and you re on your way again. I ve etched a lot of boards
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
... This is my understanding of the process, I could be terribly wrong. Etching produces 2 Cu + 2 HCl - 2 CuCl + H2. Adding the H2O2 gives the following: H2 +
2010-06-14 by Bruce Parham
... I haven t used their No Touch service but I have used Sierra Circuits for some fairly high tech multi-layer boards with good results. I see that the No
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
... Well, I thought we were talking about environmental impact. I stand by my statement that HCl is probably the most innocuous thing you can dump down the
2010-06-14 by James
... They both work fine. Once it s turned into cupric chloride, it doesn t matter of the peroxide breaks down. You just add a capfull prior to etching if you
2010-06-14 by James
... It will corrode the crap out of *any* metal fittings, even stainless. Trust me on that one, I rinsed off a PCB in the sink and the tiny amount that dripped
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
... Wondering that myself. I suppose the easy answer is when it stops etching to your expectatins . Also is probably a reason bubbling air is better than
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
In my opinion: H2O2 doesn t stay H2O2 for long. It is likely mostly H2O by the time it reaches the sewer plant. HCl? As you say, not a huge problem, it tends
2010-06-14 by Dale J. Chatham
Petsmart typically has them. If you can t find them there, try: http://www.drsfostersmith.com
2010-06-14 by Chris
Has anyone used the folks for a PCB? http://www.protoexpress.com/content/noTouch.jsp I am thinking about trying their No Touch service as their price is very
2010-06-14 by Donald H Locker
I think others have covered the bases pretty well. Until you stop doing etching, I don t see any reason to dispose of the HCl/H2O2 brew. Regenerate it with
2010-06-13 by Piers Goodhew
I ve used a toothbrush with good results... PG
2010-06-13 by bebx2000
Use a MrClean Magic Eraser, http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25317 Baxter
2010-06-13 by mlerman@ix.netcom.com
I think many concentrations and mixtures will work. I ve used 2 parts 3% H2O2 to 1 part HCl (30%) and it works fine, but it often takes 20-40 minutes to etch.
2010-06-13 by Jim Tonne
About the use of muriatic acid and H2O2: It looks like most of you use 30% muriatic acid added to 12% H2O2. Do you then use that mixture as-is, or dilute that
2010-06-13 by Harvey White
... Quite strong. I use 30% Muriatic acid, and the 3% H2O2 mixed in a ratio of one part acid to four parts H2O2. It will die after about 4 weeks, be weak
2010-06-13 by Frank P
Donald, Please see my responses below... ... I called an old hardware store (now an Ace Hardware) in my area and they told me they carry muriatic acid in one
2010-06-13 by Andrew Villeneuve
Alessio, It s been my experience that the etchant dissolves the paper completely, and it hasn t been necessary for me to do any paper cleanup whatsoever.
2010-06-13 by Stefan Trethan
Yes, you want the slightly yellowish stuff not the new white eco friendly polypropylene or polyethylene foam. The same kind used in cheap seat cushioning and
2010-06-13 by Alessio Sangalli
... This is the one used for packaging and similar? bye as
2010-06-13 by Alessio Sangalli
... No, I use sheets of photo paper. It is very convenient, but maybe cutting magazines works with the same reliability in the printer? I will try. I have to
2010-06-13 by Stefan Trethan
There is a trick to this. Grab a piece of foam rubber, flexible polyurethane foam. Moisten it with water and rub the PCB down with it. The foam rubber will
2010-06-13 by Tolga Abaci
Alessio, Are you using magazine (glossy) paper? If that s the case, I think you are referring to the paper residue left on the board after the board is soaked
2010-06-13 by Alessio Sangalli
... The eco-friendliness is honestly irrelevant. I think the new methods are just so much more effective and reliable. bye as
2010-06-13 by Alessio Sangalli
Hi. I think I got a good technique to make fairly complicated PCBs, double-face, etc. The toner transfer technique allows me to do very thin traces, and it s
2010-06-13 by Norm
Ken & DJ - Thanks. I knew one way was liable to cause trouble, but it s surprising how much one can forget in 70+ years! Just getting back into PC fab. My
2010-06-13 by DJ Delorie
... I use Na2C03 (sodium carbonate, or washing soda) for developing, and NaOH for stripping. NaOH is also used in titration, to determine the H+ concentration
2010-06-13 by DJ Delorie
... Do as you ought er add acid to water If you add a small amount of water to a large amount of acid, the water almost immediately boils and the steam bubbles
2010-06-13 by sailingto
do I add the ... ALWAYS add the acid to the H2O2 - MUCH safer. Ken H
2010-06-12 by Slavko Kocjancic
Disposal note... I had to say we are wery eco friendly . I etch my board with Hcl and H2O2. For 10x10cm board I use aprox 5ml of H2O(tap water), 1ml of
2010-06-12 by Leon Heller
... NaOH is often used for developing the resist after UV exposure. I buy mine from the local hardware store. Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2010-06-12 by Norm
... It s been 60 years since Chem 101, and I don t recall - do I add the acid to the H2O2 (water), or the other way around? Also - someone mentioned a
2010-06-12 by Donald H Locker
Most any hardware store should carry it. Big box stores need to deal in large volumes to keep the margins up -- try a local hardware. I m not sure what you
2010-06-11 by James
... This is what I used to start with, it was very fast, the nice thing is it converts to cupric chloride after you use it enough and that stuff you can keep
2010-06-11 by Mark Lerman
I got my muriatic acid at the local hardware store - they have it in quart and gallon sizes. Drano is NaOH. I keep very small amounts around, and mix as
2010-06-11 by Dale J. Chatham
... Yes, but two bottles cost about $10.00. If you find smaller amounts, I ll bet it costs more. I d think that the prudent thing to do would be to buy the 2
2010-06-11 by Frank P
Mark, I checked at my local HomeDepot and, although they had muriatic acid for swimming pools, it came in a large, two-pack container. Have you found it in
2010-06-11 by chicago8692
Have you considered using Nyalic? I do not have any interest in the company, but that stuff works well for a LOT of things, and may fit your need.
2010-06-10 by twb8899
I ve never tried welding PE or PP with hot air. The supplier who sold me the plastic sheets said it was best to use nitrogen on the polypropylene sheets I
2010-06-10 by Dale J. Chatham
Just a note about agitation... I used to use an aquarium aerator and an air stone for agitation. It had two problems. First, sometimes the bubbles stuck to
2010-06-10 by Mark Lerman
Whoops - I mean no bubbler or heater used - there is heat and bubbling produced by the etching process.