Homebrew PCBs

Newbie question, which I am sure has been asked before :)

I am thinking about using a perfboard like
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052&cp=2032058\
.2032230.2032265&parentPage=family
<http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052&cp=203205\
8.2032230.2032265&parentPage=family>

and a conductive pen (like
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1\
&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716
<http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-\
1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716> ) to create the traces
between each of the components that I solder to the board.

Anyone have any experience with this as a technique?  I assume that if I
am careful and use a ruler, I can get reliable traces?  does anyone know
how thick (or how thin) of a trace you can make with these?  Does anyone
have any experience with a particular make/model that is better/worse
than anyother?

Thanks,

Steve



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi

Unfortunately these conductive pens don't work well.
You are luck if they aren't already dried out when you buy them
but once you opened them the don't last long.
Besides it also does not paint well.
I hate them, they are simply unusable maybe in the future with a
better design, but not at the moment.

Cheers
Michael

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Joblin"
<steven_joblin@...> wrote:
>
> 
> Newbie question, which I am sure has been asked before :)
> 
> I am thinking about using a perfboard like
>
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052&cp=2032058\
> .2032230.2032265&parentPage=family
>
<http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052&cp=203205\
> 8.2032230.2032265&parentPage=family>
> 
> and a conductive pen (like
>
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1\
> &storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716
>
<http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-\

> 1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716> ) to create the traces
> between each of the components that I solder to the board.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this as a technique?  I assume that if I
> am careful and use a ruler, I can get reliable traces?  does anyone know
> how thick (or how thin) of a trace you can make with these?  Does anyone
> have any experience with a particular make/model that is better/worse
> than anyother?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I agree, they are tricky to use, and get to work right. Keep in mind,
those pens are designed for REPAIR of a board with a few bad/broken traces,
not drawing a whole board. You will not get good results trying one of
these for a full board. It may work for a little while, but don't expect
it to last.

Chris Hart

> Hi
>
> Unfortunately these conductive pens don't work well.
> You are luck if they aren't already dried out when you buy them
> but once you opened them the don't last long.
> Besides it also does not paint well.
> I hate them, they are simply unusable maybe in the future with a
> better design, but not at the moment.
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Joblin"
> <steven_joblin@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Newbie question, which I am sure has been asked before :)
>>
>> I am thinking about using a perfboard like
>>
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052&cp=2032058\
>> .2032230.2032265&parentPage=family
>>
> <http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052&cp=203205\
>> 8.2032230.2032265&parentPage=family>
>>
>> and a conductive pen (like
>>
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1\
>> &storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716
>>
> <http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-\
>> 1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716> ) to create the traces
>> between each of the components that I solder to the board.
>>
>> Anyone have any experience with this as a technique?  I assume that if I
>> am careful and use a ruler, I can get reliable traces?  does anyone know
>> how thick (or how thin) of a trace you can make with these?  Does anyone
>> have any experience with a particular make/model that is better/worse
>> than anyother?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>

Hi,

I third that sentiment.  The conductive "ink" comes out in blobs.  It's 
fine for repairing small breaks in traces, but you have to use a needle 
or toothpick to "paint" the repair.  To be solderable, you have to cure 
it.

For a board so small, point-to-point wiring will probably be easier.  
Use some PCB software to do a wire plan.  If you minimize crossings, 
you can use uninsulated wire.

You could also try adhesive backed copper.

Most would just do a toner transfer...

Regards,
Dennis

Hello,

Forth the sentiment.  I'm not even sure how you could solder 
components to the conductive ink...  Disappointment awaits you on 
this path I think.

Point to point is a much better way to go.  Have you tried a 
prototype board?  Take a look at radio shack part #276-168.  You can 
solder your parts to the board and use hook up wire for the 
connections.  The nice thing about this particular kind of board is 
that you can easily replace parts and jumpers without too much 
trouble.  Kind of a hybrid PC board.  I've used boards like this for 
quicky one-time projects and have had great success.  Vector makes 
similar products, but they are unreasonablly expensive IMHO.

Jim

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dl5012" <dl5012@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> I third that sentiment.  The conductive "ink" comes out in blobs.  
It's 
> fine for repairing small breaks in traces, but you have to use a 
needle 
> or toothpick to "paint" the repair.  To be solderable, you have to 
cure 
> it.
> 
> For a board so small, point-to-point wiring will probably be 
easier.  
> Use some PCB software to do a wire plan.  If you minimize 
crossings, 

> you can use uninsulated wire.
> 
> You could also try adhesive backed copper.
> 
> Most would just do a toner transfer...
> 
> Regards,
> Dennis
>