Homebrew PCBs

I do a lot of ebay sales, and therefore I have label sheets (freebies from
UPS) for printing mailing labels.  A couple minutes ago, I printed
something else, forgetting that I had labels loaded in the auxiliary input
tray.  This caused some printing to go on the slick backing paper.  The
image is crisp and wipes off with a dry finger.  Could this be a useful
new medium for toner transfer?

I won't have a chance to experiment with this until next week.

-- 
David Griffith
dgriffi@...

> printed something else, forgetting that I had labels loaded 
> in the auxiliary input tray.  This caused some printing to go 
> on the slick backing paper.  The image is crisp and wipes off 
> with a dry finger.  Could this be a useful new medium for 
> toner transfer?
> I won't have a chance to experiment with this until next week.


> and wipes off with a dry finger.

And there's your problem.

Tony

At 1:50 pm ((PDT)) Sun Oct 7, 2007, David Griffith wrote:

>...label sheets...slick backing paper.
>The image is crisp and wipes off with a dry finger.
>Could this be a useful new medium for toner transfer?

Useful, yes: new, no.

Stefan Trethan reported using it for component legends
but had pinhole problems with tracks.

I believe silicone-coated baking parchment has been
used with some success too, as has vellum** tracing
paper, though a quick search of my back email only
found tracing paper used with UV-sensitized boards.

(** Not the vellum quality writing paper but the
hard translucent stuff sold for technical drawing or in
heavier grades for craft work.)

I'm sure a search of our message archive would turn
up lots of related threads and I would certainly try a
heavyweight vellum myself, since I have a craft shop
nearby, but my impression is that TT success is
most often attributed to a photoglossy _inkjet_ paper
and this is because it disintegrates easily in water,
though the detail of the breakdown seems to vary.


Regards, LenW
-- 
* Please interleave reply text and trim quotes not needed for context

Actually, it wasn't me with the label backing paper.
I tried that but the image would always be damaged before i could
transfer it. Same for baking paper.

What i use for component legend is silicone coated paper (squeegee
coated with high temp silicone). This releases the toner, but is tacky
enough to hold the image.

For some reason or the other it doesn't work well for copper artwork,
the layer gets too thin in places and doesn't resist completely.
Still, doesn't matter for legend, and you get a nice shiny black print
by just peeling the silicone paper off without any water.

Anyway, label backing paper didn't work for me, but the right kind
with the right printer and lotsa care when handling, maybe....

ST

On 10/8/07, Len Warner <novost@...> wrote:
> At 1:50 pm ((PDT)) Sun Oct 7, 2007, David Griffith wrote:
>
> >...label sheets...slick backing paper.
> >The image is crisp and wipes off with a dry finger.
> >Could this be a useful new medium for toner transfer?
>
> Useful, yes: new, no.
>
> Stefan Trethan reported using it for component legends
> but had pinhole problems with tracks.
>
> I believe silicone-coated baking parchment has been
> used with some success too, as has vellum** tracing
> paper, though a quick search of my back email only
> found tracing paper used with UV-sensitized boards.
>
> (** Not the vellum quality writing paper but the
> hard translucent stuff sold for technical drawing or in
> heavier grades for craft work.)
>
> I'm sure a search of our message archive would turn
> up lots of related threads and I would certainly try a
> heavyweight vellum myself, since I have a craft shop
> nearby, but my impression is that TT success is
> most often attributed to a photoglossy _inkjet_ paper
> and this is because it disintegrates easily in water,
> though the detail of the breakdown seems to vary.
>
>
> Regards, LenW
> --
> * Please interleave reply text and trim quotes not needed for context
>
>
>
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