Homebrew PCBs

I have made double sided boards. I have tried 30 AWG wire, to big for putting under componets and flat wire from trace repair kits. The problem I am having is solder buildup. I have tried solder wicking but leaves less than desired amounts of solder. I have even used replacement eyelets but either they are too long or the pad area is to big and/or wide to put under componets.

What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?

Brian

On Wed, 06 May 2009 03:10:50 -0000, you wrote:

>I have made double sided boards. I have tried 30 AWG wire, to big for putting under componets and flat wire from trace repair kits. The problem I am having is solder buildup. I have tried solder wicking but leaves less than desired amounts of solder. I have even used replacement eyelets but either they are too long or the pad area is to big and/or wide to put under componets.
>
>What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?


I don't have a really satisfactory solution.  For one, I avoid vias
under components unless they're DIPS in sockets.  That works for me.
If I'm paranoid, I make sure that there is continuity before I put the
socket on.  I do avoid them, as well.

For vias, I have used either pins or eyelets.  The eyelets I use need
a 0.051 hole and are rather large.  They will work only on a 1/16th
inch board.  I usually have a rule where the via is only a via, there
are no parts leads used to connect layers, and there are as few as
possible, and under parts is as avoidable as possible.

The problem with the pins is that they stick up even more, although
they have a somewhat (0.039) smaller hole.  I can't recommend them and
my source has pretty much dried up.  Eyelets are cheaper, besides.

I've heard that others have used #30 wire, stitching between holes and
trimming the wires off.  That might work, but you still have the
solder blobs.  

So in summary, no real good solution, but I can get some decent boards
done, just not as nice as plated through holes.   Eagle, BTW, is not
optimized for this kind of design, but with a little persuasion, I can
get it to work.

Harvey

 >
>Brian
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

My only solution so far is - don't put vias under parts.

For an easy source of solder-able via wire: I've used strands from braiding of coaxial cables. I just strip the coax and de-braid what I need. Sometimes I use braiding I found on ebay also, a little goes a long way. 

Someday I will try the plating-thru or Think-and-tinker plating of 
conductive ink methods, but my small volume pre-protos haven't demanded that yet.
-Lee

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@...> wrote:

>
> I have made double sided boards. I have tried 30 AWG wire, to big for putting under componets and flat wire from trace repair kits. The problem I am having is solder buildup. I have tried solder wicking but leaves less than desired amounts of solder. I have even used replacement eyelets but either they are too long or the pad area is to big and/or wide to put under componets.
> 
> What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?
> 
> Brian
>

> What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?

Pressed fit header pins work best, especially for hidden vias. For the latter, you need to use flux on the tip of the pins after they are pressed flush with the board beneath where the component will go.

Cut the pin at the other side, it's the chamfered geometry of the uncut tip of the pin that allows a good joint with so little exposed solder. Also, because these pins are square and the hole is round, solder will wick below the board's surface which tends to reinforce the joint.

http://www.pbase.com/eldata/image/65408722
http://www.pbase.com/eldata/image/65448015

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@...> wrote:
>

Now that looks like the best I have heard. I'm going to use that method. Can I say it now...'why didnt I think about that'.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "derekhawkins" <eldata@...> wrote:

>
> > What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?
> 
> Pressed fit header pins work best, especially for hidden vias. For the latter, you need to use flux on the tip of the pins after they are pressed flush with the board beneath where the component will go.
> 
> Cut the pin at the other side, it's the chamfered geometry of the uncut tip of the pin that allows a good joint with so little exposed solder. Also, because these pins are square and the hole is round, solder will wick below the board's surface which tends to reinforce the joint.
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/eldata/image/65408722
> http://www.pbase.com/eldata/image/65448015
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@> wrote:
> >
>

Probably 25 years ago when Priority One Electronics was around, they has these long strips of interconnected tacks which you could press into the hole and then break off and solder top and bottom.  I took a quick look at my stash of stuff and didn't find any.

--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Brian <blue_eagle74@...> wrote:

From: Brian <blue_eagle74@...>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: via's using homemade boards.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 7:27 PM











    
            
            


      
      Now that looks like the best I have heard. I'm going to use that method. Can I say it now...'why didnt I think about that'.



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "derekhawkins" <eldata@...> wrote:

>

> > What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?

> 

> Pressed fit header pins work best, especially for hidden vias. For the latter, you need to use flux on the tip of the pins after they are pressed flush with the board beneath where the component will go.

> 

> Cut the pin at the other side, it's the chamfered geometry of the uncut tip of the pin that allows a good joint with so little exposed solder. Also, because these pins are square and the hole is round, solder will wick below the board's surface which tends to reinforce the joint.

> 

> http://www.pbase. com/eldata/ image/65408722

> http://www.pbase. com/eldata/ image/65448015

> 

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@ > wrote:

> >

>




 

      

    
    
	
	 
	
	








	


	
	


      

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Repost with added info at bottom.

Probably 25 years ago when Priority One Electronics was around, they has these long strips of interconnected tacks which you could press into the hole and then break off and solder top and bottom.  I took a quick look at my stash of stuff and didn't find any.

This comes pretty close:

http://www.verodirect.com/images/PDF/Type%2010,%2011,%203,2%20and%204%20Solder%20Pins.pdf

--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Brian <blue_eagle74@...> wrote:

From: Brian <blue_eagle74@...>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: via's using homemade boards.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 7:27 PM











    
            
            


      
      Now that looks like the best I have heard. I'm going to use that method. Can I say it now...'why didnt I think about that'.



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "derekhawkins" <eldata@...> wrote:

>

> > What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?

> 

> Pressed fit header pins work best, especially for hidden vias. For the latter, you need to use flux on the tip of the pins after they are pressed flush with the board beneath where the component will go.

> 

> Cut the pin at the other side, it's the chamfered geometry of the uncut tip of the pin that allows a good joint with so little exposed solder. Also, because these pins are square and the hole is round, solder will wick below the board's surface which tends to reinforce the joint.

> 

> http://www.pbase. com/eldata/ image/65408722

> http://www.pbase. com/eldata/ image/65448015

> 

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@ > wrote:

> >

>




 

      

    
    
	
	 
	
	








	


	
	


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I already have some the type 10 in your link for wirewrap but I think using a pin from a header would be cheaper, flush solder and easy.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, KeepIt SimpleStupid <keepitsimplestupid@...> wrote:

>
> Repost with added info at bottom.
> 
> Probably 25 years ago when Priority One Electronics was around, they has these long strips of interconnected tacks which you could press into the hole and then break off and solder top and bottom.  I took a quick look at my stash of stuff and didn't find any.
> 
> This comes pretty close:
> 
> http://www.verodirect.com/images/PDF/Type%2010,%2011,%203,2%20and%204%20Solder%20Pins.pdf
> 
> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Brian <blue_eagle74@...> wrote:
> From: Brian <blue_eagle74@...>
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: via's using homemade boards.
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 7:27 PM
> 
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>       Now that looks like the best I have heard. I'm going to use that method. Can I say it now...'why didnt I think about that'.
> 
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> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "derekhawkins" <eldata@> wrote:
> 
> >
> 
> > > What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?
> 
> > 
> 
> > Pressed fit header pins work best, especially for hidden vias. For the latter, you need to use flux on the tip of the pins after they are pressed flush with the board beneath where the component will go.
> 
> > 
> 
> > Cut the pin at the other side, it's the chamfered geometry of the uncut tip of the pin that allows a good joint with so little exposed solder. Also, because these pins are square and the hole is round, solder will wick below the board's surface which tends to reinforce the joint.
> 
> > 
> 
> > http://www.pbase. com/eldata/ image/65408722
> 
> > http://www.pbase. com/eldata/ image/65448015
> 
> > 
> 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@ > wrote:
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I have used 30 gauge wire under components. My procedure is

1. Drill via holes just slightly larger than the wire size. I can not 
remember which drill number it was. Ideally you want a little resistance 
when inserting the wire.
2. Scotch tape the corners of the board. This elevates the board 
a few thousands.
3. From the back side of the board insert wire into via so that it touches 
the table underneath. It should protrude slightly above the surface.
because of step one.
4. Solder wire the board.
5. Cut wire.
6. Repeat for all holes.
7. Flip board over and apply flux and solder paste to wires.
8  Reflow solder in toaster oven.
9 Verify continuity and that components clear the vias.




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@...> wrote:

>
> I have made double sided boards. I have tried 30 AWG wire, to big for putting under componets and flat wire from trace repair kits. The problem I am having is solder buildup. I have tried solder wicking but leaves less than desired amounts of solder. I have even used replacement eyelets but either they are too long or the pad area is to big and/or wide to put under componets.
> 
> What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?
> 
> Brian
>

KeepIt SimpleStupid wrote:
> Probably 25 years ago when Priority One Electronics was around, they has
> these long strips of interconnected tacks which you could press into the
> hole and then break off and solder top and bottom.  I took a quick look at
> my stash of stuff and didn't find any.

Harwin still make those. They're called "track pins".

http://uk.farnell.com/harwin/t1559f46/track-pin-0-84mm-pk500/dp/1143874 (500x)
http://uk.farnell.com/harwin/t1559f46k/track-pin-0-84mm-pk1000/dp/1143879 (1000x)

£8.04 for 500, £13.23 for 1000. Harwin part numbers T1559-F46 and T1559-F46K 
respectively.

Or if you want the 1mm diameter ones:

http://uk.farnell.com/harwin/t1563f46/track-pin-1mm-pk500/dp/1143877   (500x)
http://uk.farnell.com/harwin/t1563f46k/track-pin-1mm-pk1000/dp/1143880 (1000x)

£6.44 for 500, or £13.66 for 1000. Harwin part numbers T1563-F46 and 
T1563-F46K respectively.

I didn't really rate them -- the large head on the pin usually meant that even 
if you followed the design guidelines *exactly*, the pin would short to a 
nearby pad.

And wire + solder is cheaper :)

-- 
Phil.
ygroups@...
http://www.philpem.me.uk/

Wire Balling : was Re: via's using homemade boards.

Some ideas ( similar to that done on die bonders with  hydrogen flame ball forming )

May this could be done with copper, gold, or silver wire. If the wire is malleable enough, it could be flattened also after balling
by a pressing phase.

http://www.how-to-make-jewelry.com/balled-wire-headpins.html

Video of:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBrCkTnEF4E

Also found the track pins on Mouser in the US.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=TRACK+PIN<http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=TRACK+PIN>

about  2 cents apiece tho.

RD

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Forgot to mention: This was an alternative idea to making Tack Pins on 
the fly.
-Lee

> Also found the track pins on Mouser in the US.
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=TRACK+PIN<http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=TRACK+PIN>


Mouser webpage,  Says Not in Stock with lead time of 8 weeks.

I have found problems with using 30AWG wire and the pin method, I even tried using 10mil trace repair kits. The solder mound is kinda big. I am using an AVR mega8 QFP so there isnt much room. But I was able to redesign the board to remove the vias under the Quad.

Brian

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "javaguy11111" <javaguy11111@...> wrote:

>
> I have used 30 gauge wire under components. My procedure is
> 
> 1. Drill via holes just slightly larger than the wire size. I can not 
> remember which drill number it was. Ideally you want a little resistance 
> when inserting the wire.
> 2. Scotch tape the corners of the board. This elevates the board 
> a few thousands.
> 3. From the back side of the board insert wire into via so that it touches 
> the table underneath. It should protrude slightly above the surface.
> because of step one.
> 4. Solder wire the board.
> 5. Cut wire.
> 6. Repeat for all holes.
> 7. Flip board over and apply flux and solder paste to wires.
> 8  Reflow solder in toaster oven.
> 9 Verify continuity and that components clear the vias.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <blue_eagle74@> wrote:
> >
> > I have made double sided boards. I have tried 30 AWG wire, to big for putting under componets and flat wire from trace repair kits. The problem I am having is solder buildup. I have tried solder wicking but leaves less than desired amounts of solder. I have even used replacement eyelets but either they are too long or the pad area is to big and/or wide to put under componets.
> > 
> > What have you used that works, besides through hole plating?
> > 
> > Brian
> >
>