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First toner transfer attempts.

First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by Matthew Andrews

Hello all,

I've been attempting to use the toner transfer method for making PCBs
for the firs time with somewhat frustrating results.

I am using an HP 4P with an authentic HP toner cartridge, and picked up
a 50 pack of staples Photo basic gloss paper(SKU 648181). I'm attempting
to use a clothes iron to heat the toner for transfer. I have fairly good
results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some
improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what
looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that will
not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch brite pad.

I have a picture of the board here:
http://www.slackers.net/~matt/PCB/TT_take1.jpg

note the white bits near many of the traces, and over most of the holes.

here's the procedure I've been trying:

1) scrub the board in soap and water with a scotchbrite pad
2) dry the board
3) clean the board with acetone
4) dry the board
5) line up the artwork over the board
6) using an iron on highest(linen) setting, heat half of the board for
~30 sec. while applying pressure.
7) move iron to other side of board(the board is about 4."5x5.25" son
the iron won't cover the whole board.) for ~ 30 seconds.
8) move front of iron back and forth across board moving down ~.25" with
each pass
9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.
10) attempt to peel off paper.

Is anyone else using this paper, and have you had similar issues? I
believe that they may have just re-introduced this SKU, and am wondering
if the paper may have changed.

thanks,
-Matt Andrews

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by John Coppens

On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 18:52:07 -0700
Matthew Andrews <matt@...> wrote:

> I have fairly good
> results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some
> improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what
> looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that will
> not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch brite
> pad.

That looks similar to problem I had (with Epson gloss paper). Try using a
tooth brush while the board is still wet. Or, when dry, try to pass a not
too hard (paint) brush over it. In my case, those deposits could be
removed that way. The toner was quite resistant to the brushing.
The 'plastic' is probably a gelatine-like substance which absorbs ink.

Also, I wouldn't hold the iron in one place, but move it around a bit. I
think it will heat the surface more evenly that way.

> 9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.

Soaking may need a little longer, depending on the paper. Don't be afraid
to leave it 10' or more, if that helps.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by Piers Goodhew

I also had similar results using some generic photo paper. Because I  
just can't persuade that paper to go thru my old 5MP anymore, I've  
stopped using it, but I did have the (very unproven) impression that  
the extra layer of plastic would actually be quite helpful to prevent  
"pitting" during etching.

I flirted with a quick pass with some really fine grit sandpaper,  
before just letting it dry and then scraping away any white with a  
bamboo skewer (of the kind you'd make satay chicken with ... no idea  
how widely available these are, but you can get them in any  
supermarket in Aus.). Probably a really stiff brush would also do well  
and require less attention.

Now that I don't use it, I am noticing that some of my "black" areas  
do get etched a little - aka "pitting" or "etch thru" (but to further  
complicate things, I was also pretty low on toner. I have a new cart  
now, but nothing to etch for a few more weeks at least).

Adhesion, I find, is better with more passes of less heat.

PG
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On 07/08/2009, at 2:43 PM, John Coppens wrote:

> On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 18:52:07 -0700
> Matthew Andrews <matt@...> wrote:
>
> > I have fairly good
> > results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some
> > improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what
> > looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that  
> will
> > not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch  
> brite
> > pad.
>
> That looks similar to problem I had (with Epson gloss paper). Try  
> using a
> tooth brush while the board is still wet. Or, when dry, try to pass  
> a not
> too hard (paint) brush over it. In my case, those deposits could be
> removed that way. The toner was quite resistant to the brushing.
> The 'plastic' is probably a gelatine-like substance which absorbs ink.
>
> Also, I wouldn't hold the iron in one place, but move it around a  
> bit. I
> think it will heat the surface more evenly that way.
>
> > 9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.
>
> Soaking may need a little longer, depending on the paper. Don't be  
> afraid
> to leave it 10' or more, if that helps.
>
>
>

Re: First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by d_robertson4

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Matthew Andrews <matt@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> I've been attempting to use the toner transfer method for making PCBs
...
> Is anyone else using this paper, and have you had similar issues? I
> believe that they may have just re-introduced this SKU, and am wondering
> if the paper may have changed.
> 
> thanks,
> -Matt Andrews
>

Hello Matt, I went through exactly the same thing with Staples basic 190 g/m2 glossy paper. Many new photo papers are having plastic like layers incorporated near the backing or surface. This paper transfers well but is diabolical to remove. If you don't use enough heat the transfer will never be satisfactory, if you use more heat the surface bonds and melts along with the toner and is near impossible to remove on this paper.

I use magazine paper for now, as long as it's the shiny type, this works massively better than the above mentioned paper which I think is a new formula. 

You should know that thin magazine paper can foul going through a laser printer, it's best to sellotape the leading edge to a normal piece of paper if you ever try thin magazine paper. This way has the advantage that you only need to use a cut size of magazine paper a bit bigger than your board size.

As long as the board is properly clean, enough heat is put on the board, I use a small travel iron on high setting for 5-8 minutes just lying on top with a bit of kitchen foil underneath. The board gets to about 200-230 degrees c. Then iron with gentle force or I put through an unmodified fellows £30 laminator a couple of times and then cool quickly in water. The cooling quickly seems to work better than slow cooling. 

I never[almost] get inconsistent results anymore, sometimes a few traces can have slight squashing under a magnifying glass if the heat is high but the transfer is always good. The board has to be very clean also and free from grit, grease or dust etc.. I always clean carefully at least twice with Acetone. It's also good to let it sit for a minute for the Acetone to evaporate properly otherwise this can interfere with adhesion also.

It's extremely frustrating using the toner transfer method until you avoid the various pitfalls. I would abandon this paper unless you like torturing yourself and look for another type of paper.

Regards Doug.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by Michel Baguet

Hi Matt,

I got the same problem while trying to use toner transfert. In general, photo paper are a paper frame with a thin sheet of plastic and clay over it. Using an iron, I got very uneven results and most of the time, the platic foil was sticking to the copper. You definitly need a laminator. With it, you get even temperature and even pressure. Mine that I bought for 20euros, is a Rexel but from the pictures from other members, it is exactly the same as a GBC model. I removed the two mecanichal thermostat and use an electronic one with a thermocouple, set the temperature to 180°C and need  from 8 to 15 passes, depending on the size of the pcb. The larger, the faster it cools down. I've got to use a file to slightly modify it so I could use 1.5mm copper clad. With HP photo paper, I don't even have to soak it, just
 let it cool down to ambient temperature and peel it off ! 



--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Matthew Andrews <matt@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Matthew Andrews <matt@...>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 1:52 AM






 




    
                  Hello all,



I've been attempting to use the toner transfer method for making PCBs

for the firs time with somewhat frustrating results.



I am using an HP 4P with an authentic HP toner cartridge, and picked up

a 50 pack of staples Photo basic gloss paper(SKU 648181). I'm attempting

to use a clothes iron to heat the toner for transfer. I have fairly good

results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some

improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what

looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that will

not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch brite pad.



I have a picture of the board here:

http://www.slackers .net/~matt/ PCB/TT_take1. jpg



note the white bits near many of the traces, and over most of the holes.



here's the procedure I've been trying:



1) scrub the board in soap and water with a scotchbrite pad

2) dry the board

3) clean the board with acetone

4) dry the board

5) line up the artwork over the board

6) using an iron on highest(linen) setting, heat half of the board for

~30 sec. while applying pressure.

7) move iron to other side of board(the board is about 4."5x5.25" son

the iron won't cover the whole board.) for ~ 30 seconds.

8) move front of iron back and forth across board moving down ~.25" with

each pass

9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.

10) attempt to peel off paper.



Is anyone else using this paper, and have you had similar issues? I

believe that they may have just re-introduced this SKU, and am wondering

if the paper may have changed.



thanks,

-Matt Andrews


 

      

    
    _
	
	 
	
	








	


	
	


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by michael tenore

Use HP Presentation paper!  I get excellent results with it and it comes off easier than photo paper



Mike


________________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Michel Baguet <bagmik@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 7, 2009 9:56:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

  
Hi Matt,

I got the same problem while trying to use toner transfert. In general, photo paper are a paper frame with a thin sheet of plastic and clay over it. Using an iron, I got very uneven results and most of the time, the platic foil was sticking to the copper. You definitly need a laminator. With it, you get even temperature and even pressure. Mine that I bought for 20euros, is a Rexel but from the pictures from other members, it is exactly the same as a GBC model. I removed the two mecanichal thermostat and use an electronic one with a thermocouple, set the temperature to 180°C and need  from 8 to 15 passes, depending on the size of the pcb. The larger, the faster it cools down. I've got to use a file to slightly modify it so I could use 1.5mm copper clad. With HP photo paper, I don't even have to soak it, just
let it cool down to ambient temperature and peel it off ! 

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Matthew Andrews <matt@slackers. net> wrote:

From: Matthew Andrews <matt@slackers. net>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 1:52 AM

 

Hello all,

I've been attempting to use the toner transfer method for making PCBs

for the firs time with somewhat frustrating results.

I am using an HP 4P with an authentic HP toner cartridge, and picked up

a 50 pack of staples Photo basic gloss paper(SKU 648181). I'm attempting

to use a clothes iron to heat the toner for transfer. I have fairly good

results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some

improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what

looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that will

not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch brite pad.

I have a picture of the board here:

http://www.slackers .net/~matt/ PCB/TT_take1. jpg

note the white bits near many of the traces, and over most of the holes.

here's the procedure I've been trying:

1) scrub the board in soap and water with a scotchbrite pad

2) dry the board

3) clean the board with acetone

4) dry the board

5) line up the artwork over the board

6) using an iron on highest(linen) setting, heat half of the board for

~30 sec. while applying pressure.

7) move iron to other side of board(the board is about 4."5x5.25" son

the iron won't cover the whole board.) for ~ 30 seconds.

8) move front of iron back and forth across board moving down ~.25" with

each pass

9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.

10) attempt to peel off paper.

Is anyone else using this paper, and have you had similar issues? I

believe that they may have just re-introduced this SKU, and am wondering

if the paper may have changed.

thanks,

-Matt Andrews

_










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


   


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by Michel Baguet

Do you have problem with pinhole on wide track/large area ?

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, michael tenore <wb2lcw@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: michael tenore <wb2lcw@...>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 4:08 PM






 




    
                  Use HP Presentation paper!  I get excellent results with it and it comes off easier than photo paper



Mike



____________ _________ _________ __

From: Michel Baguet <bagmik@yahoo. com>

To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, August 7, 2009 9:56:26 AM

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.



Hi Matt,



I got the same problem while trying to use toner transfert. In general, photo paper are a paper frame with a thin sheet of plastic and clay over it.. Using an iron, I got very uneven results and most of the time, the platic foil was sticking to the copper. You definitly need a laminator. With it, you get even temperature and even pressure. Mine that I bought for 20euros, is a Rexel but from the pictures from other members, it is exactly the same as a GBC model. I removed the two mecanichal thermostat and use an electronic one with a thermocouple, set the temperature to 180°C and need  from 8 to 15 passes, depending on the size of the pcb. The larger, the faster it cools down. I've got to use a file to slightly modify it so I could use 1..5mm copper clad. With HP photo paper, I don't even have to soak it, just

let it cool down to ambient temperature and peel it off ! 



--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Matthew Andrews <matt@slackers. net> wrote:



From: Matthew Andrews <matt@slackers. net>

Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 1:52 AM



Hello all,



I've been attempting to use the toner transfer method for making PCBs



for the firs time with somewhat frustrating results.



I am using an HP 4P with an authentic HP toner cartridge, and picked up



a 50 pack of staples Photo basic gloss paper(SKU 648181). I'm attempting



to use a clothes iron to heat the toner for transfer. I have fairly good



results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some



improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what



looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that will



not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch brite pad.



I have a picture of the board here:



http://www.slackers .net/~matt/ PCB/TT_take1. jpg



note the white bits near many of the traces, and over most of the holes.



here's the procedure I've been trying:



1) scrub the board in soap and water with a scotchbrite pad



2) dry the board



3) clean the board with acetone



4) dry the board



5) line up the artwork over the board



6) using an iron on highest(linen) setting, heat half of the board for



~30 sec. while applying pressure.



7) move iron to other side of board(the board is about 4."5x5.25" son



the iron won't cover the whole board.) for ~ 30 seconds.



8) move front of iron back and forth across board moving down ~.25" with



each pass



9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.



10) attempt to peel off paper.



Is anyone else using this paper, and have you had similar issues? I



believe that they may have just re-introduced this SKU, and am wondering



if the paper may have changed.



thanks,



-Matt Andrews



_



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




 

      

    
    
	
	 
	
	








	


	
	


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-07 by michael tenore

No I do not !   I am very satisfied with this paper.. You still have to inspect the board 
any way but on a large board I only have to touch up a couple of spots. But that is due
 to me getting a little aggressive when I have paper to remove between traces when traces are very close together.
I did two 6.5 x 4.5 ich boards with many traces and pads that came out virtually perfect..

I use a GBC H535 laminator that I recently got at a bargain on eBay for less than $100 with shipping 
and I get very good results on large boards 1/16 thick with no modifications..

my printer is a used HP 2100 that I found on line from a office near my job for $25..  This
 paper works great with a iorn on small boards.. I also found heating boards with a iron and using a 
wall paper seamer roller from home depot to apply preasure works quite well also, if you have to use an iron.

my iron is a el-cheapo dry iron I found in a variety store for $10!(It has no hole in the sole plate!)

This paper is only $13 for 300 sheets.

mike




________________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Michel Baguet <bagmik@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 7, 2009 12:23:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

  
Do you have problem with pinhole on wide track/large area ?

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, michael tenore <wb2lcw@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: michael tenore <wb2lcw@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 4:08 PM

 

Use HP Presentation paper!  I get excellent results with it and it comes off easier than photo paper

Mike

____________ _________ _________ __

From: Michel Baguet <bagmik@yahoo. com>

To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, August 7, 2009 9:56:26 AM

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

Hi Matt,

I got the same problem while trying to use toner transfert. In general, photo paper are a paper frame with a thin sheet of plastic and clay over it.. Using an iron, I got very uneven results and most of the time, the platic foil was sticking to the copper. You definitly need a laminator. With it, you get even temperature and even pressure. Mine that I bought for 20euros, is a Rexel but from the pictures from other members, it is exactly the same as a GBC model. I removed the two mecanichal thermostat and use an electronic one with a thermocouple, set the temperature to 180°C and need  from 8 to 15 passes, depending on the size of the pcb. The larger, the faster it cools down. I've got to use a file to slightly modify it so I could use 1..5mm copper clad. With HP photo paper, I don't even have to soak it, just

let it cool down to ambient temperature and peel it off ! 

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Matthew Andrews <matt@slackers. net> wrote:

From: Matthew Andrews <matt@slackers. net>

Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 1:52 AM

Hello all,

I've been attempting to use the toner transfer method for making PCBs

for the firs time with somewhat frustrating results.

I am using an HP 4P with an authentic HP toner cartridge, and picked up

a 50 pack of staples Photo basic gloss paper(SKU 648181). I'm attempting

to use a clothes iron to heat the toner for transfer. I have fairly good

results with respect to toner adhesion though I definitely need some

improvement, but what's worrying me most is that I end up with what

looks like a plastic layer from the paper stuck to the board that will

not come off without heavy scrubbing with something like a scotch brite pad.

I have a picture of the board here:

http://www.slackers .net/~matt/ PCB/TT_take1. jpg

note the white bits near many of the traces, and over most of the holes.

here's the procedure I've been trying:

1) scrub the board in soap and water with a scotchbrite pad

2) dry the board

3) clean the board with acetone

4) dry the board

5) line up the artwork over the board

6) using an iron on highest(linen) setting, heat half of the board for

~30 sec. while applying pressure.

7) move iron to other side of board(the board is about 4."5x5.25" son

the iron won't cover the whole board.) for ~ 30 seconds.

8) move front of iron back and forth across board moving down ~.25" with

each pass

9) drop in hot soapy water for 5 min.

10) attempt to peel off paper.

Is anyone else using this paper, and have you had similar issues? I

believe that they may have just re-introduced this SKU, and am wondering

if the paper may have changed.

thanks,

-Matt Andrews

_

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


   


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-08 by Michel Baguet

Can you give more infos about the paper ? Full name, inkjet or laser, weigth, ...
Do you have to soak it ?

Mike

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, michael tenore <wb2lcw@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: michael tenore <wb2lcw@...>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 6:35 PM






 




    
                  No I do not !   I am very satisfied with this paper.. You still have to inspect the board 

any way but on a large board I only have to touch up a couple of spots. But that is due

 to me getting a little aggressive when I have paper to remove between traces when traces are very close together.

I did two 6.5 x 4.5 ich boards with many traces and pads that came out virtually perfect..



I use a GBC H535 laminator that I recently got at a bargain on eBay for less than $100 with shipping 

and I get very good results on large boards 1/16 thick with no modifications. .



my printer is a used HP 2100 that I found on line from a office near my job for $25..  This

 paper works great with a iorn on small boards.. I also found heating boards with a iron and using a 

wall paper seamer roller from home depot to apply preasure works quite well also, if you have to use an iron.



my iron is a el-cheapo dry iron I found in a variety store for $10!(It has no hole in the sole plate!)



This paper is only $13 for 300 sheets.



mike


	
	 
	
	








	


	
	


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-09 by macmyke01

I've had success using Press-n-peel "paper". I used the blue instead of the wet and it worked surprisingly well. Here's a source for it: http://www.techniks.com/

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-09 by Cristian

>
>I've had success using Press-n-peel

I've heard that somewhere exists an extra foil (green?) used to 
correct the blue foil.
Could someone send me a link, please?
C


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-09 by michael tenore

Ok Mike ,Here  it is!

Paper name = "HP Presentation Paper 130g"
Glossy 34lb Brightness 97

On the back of the package there is a small Bar code It says Product  Q2546A

Virtually all Staples store have it! By the way Staples stores in my area have Paper in two or three different areas of the store.. Look  in the area
where they have blank certificate sheets but if you dont see it ask a store clerk UPC is 8  82780 35464  7 

regards

mike




________________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Michel Baguet <bagmik@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 8, 2009 4:47:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

  
Can you give more infos about the paper ? Full name, inkjet or laser, weigth, ...
Do you have to soak it ?

Mike

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, michael tenore <wb2lcw@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: michael tenore <wb2lcw@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 6:35 PM

 

No I do not !   I am very satisfied with this paper.. You still have to inspect the board 

any way but on a large board I only have to touch up a couple of spots. But that is due

to me getting a little aggressive when I have paper to remove between traces when traces are very close together.

I did two 6.5 x 4.5 ich boards with many traces and pads that came out virtually perfect..

I use a GBC H535 laminator that I recently got at a bargain on eBay for less than $100 with shipping 

and I get very good results on large boards 1/16 thick with no modifications. .

my printer is a used HP 2100 that I found on line from a office near my job for $25..  This

paper works great with a iorn on small boards.. I also found heating boards with a iron and using a 

wall paper seamer roller from home depot to apply preasure works quite well also, if you have to use an iron.

my iron is a el-cheapo dry iron I found in a variety store for $10!(It has no hole in the sole plate!)

This paper is only $13 for 300 sheets.

mike











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


   


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

2009-08-09 by michael tenore

Yes you have sto soak it for a few minutes.. Water  penetrates all the way thru! Some one suggested soaking paper in Vinegar. But I have not tried this yet!

Mike




________________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Michel Baguet <bagmik@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 8, 2009 4:47:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.

  
Can you give more infos about the paper ? Full name, inkjet or laser, weigth, ...
Do you have to soak it ?

Mike

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, michael tenore <wb2lcw@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: michael tenore <wb2lcw@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First toner transfer attempts.
To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 6:35 PM

 

No I do not !   I am very satisfied with this paper.. You still have to inspect the board 

any way but on a large board I only have to touch up a couple of spots. But that is due

to me getting a little aggressive when I have paper to remove between traces when traces are very close together.

I did two 6.5 x 4.5 ich boards with many traces and pads that came out virtually perfect..

I use a GBC H535 laminator that I recently got at a bargain on eBay for less than $100 with shipping 

and I get very good results on large boards 1/16 thick with no modifications. .

my printer is a used HP 2100 that I found on line from a office near my job for $25..  This

paper works great with a iorn on small boards.. I also found heating boards with a iron and using a 

wall paper seamer roller from home depot to apply preasure works quite well also, if you have to use an iron.

my iron is a el-cheapo dry iron I found in a variety store for $10!(It has no hole in the sole plate!)

This paper is only $13 for 300 sheets.

mike











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Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.