Homebrew PCBs

Hi,
I have found one fuser as I think as a good candidate for DIY 
laminator. This is from a Lexmark Laser, 360W. Can anybody put me on 
the right track as regards controlling the *lamp* or is it always on?
What kind of speed do I have to look for? The fuser is 16mm in 
diameter. Any hints - pictures - drawings - links I would be very 
happy to get these.
Bengt

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 19:12:15 -0000, Bengt <tecnoconsult@...> wrote:

>
>
> Hi,
> I have found one fuser as I think as a good candidate for DIY
> laminator. This is from a Lexmark Laser, 360W. Can anybody put me on
> the right track as regards controlling the *lamp* or is it always on?
> What kind of speed do I have to look for? The fuser is 16mm in
> diameter. Any hints - pictures - drawings - links I would be very
> happy to get these.
> Bengt
>

you can build a thermostat for the lamp with a few parts, i'll try to get  
you the
schematic. for the motor a easy solution is a "grill motor" (which usually  
rotates
the chickens etc.). It is geared down and has good torque, and usually  
runs from mains
voltage. i've seen them new for less than 10eur so you should get one very  
cheap.
You want a very, very slow feed speed in order to use only one pass  
through it.
Many passes have the disadvantage that the board cools in between.

I will try to get that schematic for you, but drawings etc. for the  
mechanic part are
not needed.

ST

In message <opsftpk01bmg0lsf@...> you wrote:


> you can build a thermostat for the lamp with a few parts, i'll try to get  
> you the
> schematic.

Could you send me a copy of the schematic, too? Also, uploading it to the
Files section of the group page on Yahoo might be a good idea.

I've seen LaserJet II fusers on ebay - are they any good for toner-transfer
work?

Thanks.
-- 
Phil.                              | Acorn Risc PC600 Mk3, SA202, 64MB, 6GB,
philpem@...              | ViewFinder, 10BaseT Ethernet, 2-slice,
http://www.philpem.me.uk/          | 48xCD, ARCINv6c IDE, SCSI
... Now where did I put that fire extinguisher?

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 21:26:26 +0100, Philip Pemberton  
<philpem@...> wrote:

>
> In message <opsftpk01bmg0lsf@...> you wrote:
>
>
>> you can build a thermostat for the lamp with a few parts, i'll try to  
>> get
>> you the
>> schematic.
>
> Could you send me a copy of the schematic, too? Also, uploading it to the
> Files section of the group page on Yahoo might be a good idea.
>
> I've seen LaserJet II fusers on ebay - are they any good for  
> toner-transfer
> work?
>
> Thanks.

I assume the LJII would work, though haven't tried it.

Work on the schematic and doc.

ST

Hi Stefan,
In my Photo album I have one picture, is this a thermo *device* that
can be used for the schematics you will provide? I have found the 
optocoupler in the powersupply that switches the triac for the lamp.
Now only the thermostat and a slowmotor is needed :)
You say SLOW, taking the diameter of 16mm into account, how many rpms 
do you think is needed ?

I will provide pictures of this *adventure* with reports of *quality* 
of the TT. Looking forward to this project.

Bengt
 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 19:12:15 -0000, Bengt <tecnoconsult@t...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> > I have found one fuser as I think as a good candidate for DIY
> > laminator. This is from a Lexmark Laser, 360W. Can anybody put me 
on
> > the right track as regards controlling the *lamp* or is it always 
on?
> > What kind of speed do I have to look for? The fuser is 16mm in
> > diameter. Any hints - pictures - drawings - links I would be very
> > happy to get these.
> > Bengt
> >
> 
> you can build a thermostat for the lamp with a few parts, i'll try 
to get  
> you the
> schematic. for the motor a easy solution is a "grill motor" (which 
usually  
> rotates
> the chickens etc.). It is geared down and has good torque, and 
usually  
> runs from mains
> voltage. i've seen them new for less than 10eur so you should get 
one very  
> cheap.
> You want a very, very slow feed speed in order to use only one 
pass  
> through it.
> Many passes have the disadvantage that the board cools in between.
> 
> I will try to get that schematic for you, but drawings etc. for 
the  

> mechanic part are
> not needed.
> 
> ST

> Hi Stefan,
> In my Photo album I have one picture, is this a thermo *device* that
> can be used for the schematics you will provide?

The resistance is about 250Kohm in room temperature, decreases when 
warming up.

Bengt

here you go:

<http://stud4.tuwien.ac.at/~e0225977/pub/fuser/fuser_as_laminator.html>

ST

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 20:51:10 -0000, Bengt <tecnoconsult@...> wrote:

>
>
>> Hi Stefan,
>> In my Photo album I have one picture, is this a thermo *device* that
>> can be used for the schematics you will provide?
>
> The resistance is about 250Kohm in room temperature, decreases when
> warming up.
>
> Bengt
>
>

looks quite right, you will want to use a fairly large value for the pot  
to start
with, say 500k or more. you can measure the resistance at 160C if you want  
to know if
a lower value would be better (if it is too big it is hard to adjust  
precise but if it is too
small the temperature will be too high).

have a look at that schematic and then we can discuss everything i left  
out.

ST

Thanks Stefan,
I will try to get it running, have to find suitable motor.
Bengt

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 20:51:10 -0000, Bengt <tecnoconsult@t...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> >> Hi Stefan,
> >> In my Photo album I have one picture, is this a thermo *device* 
that
> >> can be used for the schematics you will provide?
> >
> > The resistance is about 250Kohm in room temperature, decreases 
when
> > warming up.
> >
> > Bengt
> >
> >
> 
> looks quite right, you will want to use a fairly large value for 
the pot  
> to start
> with, say 500k or more. you can measure the resistance at 160C if 
you want  
> to know if
> a lower value would be better (if it is too big it is hard to 
adjust  
> precise but if it is too
> small the temperature will be too high).
> 
> have a look at that schematic and then we can discuss everything i 
left  

> out.
> 
> ST