Marcos Maniacs

Donny,

Thanks for your description of the install.  In an
earlier life these things were usually simple to me. 
Today I just get a brain freeze and don't seem to
understand these electro/computerized gadgets.  

Back in the 70's when the first high energy capacitive
discharge transistorized ignition system came out I
discovered that they provided no more performance than
a good set of points.  I suffered 2 DNFs in my
H-Production Sprite because of burned transistors.  I
pulled the transistor box out, stuck with the points
and now today I need to learn this stuff again.

I took a few hours today and got all the parts into
the distributor.  Everything seems to be in place and
aligned and timed properly.  At least to the point
where the indicator LED on the control box lights up
showing that the system may be working.  I have not
started the engine yet.

I am still confused as to how the tach is supposed to
be hooked up.  My tach is the type that has the wire
loop from the coil to the tach sensor and back to the
points.  Do not have any points in there  - now what?

Any suggestions?

On a more positive note, I installed the new custom
built radiator in the car today and it fits like a
glove.  The shop that made the radiator happened to
have a new core that was originally purchased for a
V-8 T-Bucket hot rod.  It was never used in the
T-Bucket.  We found a set of upper and lower tanks
from some unknown Triumph model.  The upper tank
seemed to match the contour of the slopped hood line
of the Marcos and they were the same width as my old
radiator.  I am still working on the mounting for the
electric fan and the radiator upgrade will be
complete.

Thanks again for your input,
Bob Magotti


--- Donny Lang <indigo@...> wrote:

> Bob,
> I haven't installed one of these for about 2 years,
> so I pulled out one from an MGB distributor (B43D)
> to take a look at. I usually take the distributor
> out of the engine to make it easier to set up the
> kit. Make a reference mark on the outside of the
> housing at #1 fireing position for setting things up
> later on.
>  
> You do remove the points and condenser with the
> associated wiring. Leave the ground wire if there is
> one though.  Leave the breaker plate intact as you
> use it to mount the light beam module (sensor as you
> refer to it). The small brackets supplied are
> definitely "Rube Goldberg" and if I recall, there
> are several sets depending on which kit you got. I'm
> sure you have all the parts in the kit to install
> it. You will be fitting a couple delicate looking
> brackets together, but they really do work pretty
> well when all assembled.
>  
>  The light beam module (about 1" x 3/4" x 1/2")
> should have a notch/recess at the back (opposite
> side from the light emmitter/sensor) that has three
> screw holes. You will likely only use one of the
> holes (center in the case of the MGB dist). I then
> have two small, frail looking metal brackets with
> about 1" long slots. The one that attaches to the
> light beam module has a right-angle twist. The
> straight slot mounts to the module using one of he
> three screw positions and serves as the up-and-down
> adjustment so that the shutter wheel/slotted disc is
> centered between the upper and lower light emmitters
> when all is assembled. The other end of the twisted
> bracket has an arc-shaped slot that attaches another
> shorter stepped bracket to it.
> 
> This stepped bracket attaches to the breaker plate
> in any hole near the outside perimeter. The arc slot
> of the twisted bracket should follow the
> circumference of the breaker plate about 5/8" above
> the breaker plate.
> 
> Before mounting the module assembly to the breaker
> plate, install the appropriate shutter wheel over
> the points lobe under the stock rotor stub. Measure
> the distance of the shutter wheel above the breaker
> plate, and rough-adjust the brackets for the module
> so the rotor falls between the two light emmitters. 
> 
> Once the adjustment is close, trial-assemble the
> shutter wheel (over the shaft) and module assembly
> to the breaker plate, kind of at the same time if it
> is close-clearanced like mine. Make any adjustments
> to get the shutter wheel centered beween the light
> emmitters, (elevation from the breaker plate), then
> install the stock rotor and rotate the engine (or
> dist. shaft) until it points to #1 fireing position
> (if you marked this position as a reference point
> before you started the installation). Then
> check/adjust the module using the arc slot to align
> any one of slots in the shutter wheel with the light
> emmitters.
>  
> When it all lines up, take it apart to feed the
> wires through the hole in the side of the
> distributor housing (if nessary) and re-assemble. 
> Follow the wiring diagram for the control module and
> it all should work. You will have to use a  timing
> light to set the ignition timing when you start it.
> 
> Sorry for the long-winded proceedure, but I hope
> this helps. Give me a call if you have any other
> questions at (305) 852-0110. Thanks - Donny
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Bob Magnotti 
>   To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 5:01 PM
>   Subject: [MarcosManiacs] HELP Conversion to
> pointless ignition
> 
> 
>   Donny,
> 
>   Well I purchased the Crane 700 system and am
> excited
>   about the prospects of installing it and getting
> rid
>   of the points.
> 
>   Unfortunately the "stupids" seem to have set in at
> my
>   garage and I cannot figure out how to mount the
> sensor
>   in the distributor. As I read the instructions it
>   says to remove the points and condenser and wiring
> to
>   the coil. It is unclear if I am also supposed to
>   remove the points mounting plate? Is the sensor
>   supposed to mount to the points mounting plate and
> be
>   able to move with the advance mechinism? There
> does
>   not seem to be a straighforward way to mount the
>   sensor so it can be adjusted for the proper
> timing.
> 
>   Is the mounting of the sensor an easy bolt in
>   procedure or am I supposed to fabricate some sort
> of
>   Rube Goldberg bracket system to get it mounted?
> ...or
>   am I making this harder than it needs to be?
> 
>   Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
>   Bob Magotti
> 
>   --- Donny Lang <indigo@...> wrote:
> 
>   > Bob, I can't verify which Crane ignition is
> needed
>   > for your distributor , but a "universal"
> 700-0231
>   > kit has worked well for conversions in the past.
>   > Call the Crane tech number at (386) 258-6174 to
> try
>   > to confirm your needs. They carry both the XR
> 700
>   > and XR 3000 systems. I have always used the less
>   > expensive XR 700, so can't comment on the
> pricier
>   > one. The kits consist of a light beam/shutter
> wheel
>   > for under the distributor cap, and an
> electronics
>   > box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes
> to
>   > be mounted in the engine compartment. By the
> way, I
>   > haven't had problems with tach function when I
> have
>   > used these. I hope this helps. - Donny
>   > ----- Original Message ----- 
>   > From: Bob Magnotti 
>   > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com 
>   > Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 9:24 AM
>   > Subject: Re: [MarcosManiacs] Conversion to
>   > pointless ignition
>   > 
>   > 
>   > Without removing the manifold and carburetors I
>   > looked
>   > at the Distributor this morning and the only
>   > numbers I
>   > can see on it are 41882 A 59D4
>   > 
>   > Are these the numbers I need to determine which
>   > kit is
>   > needed for the conversion?
>   > 
>   > Bob Magnotti
>   > 
>   > --- Donny Lang <indigo@...> wrote:
>   > 
>   > > Richard and Paul,
>   > > I too can vouch for the reliability of the
> Crane
>   > > ignition systems. I've had a Crane XR 700 in
> my
>   > TR8
>   > > for over 12 years and it has been absolutely
>   > > flawless. That system replaced a Pertrinix
>   > system
>   > > that lasted less than a week. I've used the
>   > > Luminition system in a few cars for
>   > > friend/customers, but they have not lasted as
>   > long
>   > > as the Crane ignitions, typically only a
> couple
>   > > years. To date, I have never had a failure of
> a
>   > > Crane XR 700 or 7000 out of nearly a dozen
>   > installed
>   > > on various vehicles. The only ignition that
>   > > surpasses the Crane for reliability is a
> Piranah
>   > > system I put on my Dad's BMW 2002 back in
> 1977.
>   > I
>   > > still have the car and it will sometimes still
>   > start
>   > > by just turning the ignition on- no starter!
> You
>   > can
>   > > hear the spark plugs zapping in the cylinder.
> I
>   > > haven't seen another one of these is close to
> 25
>   > > years.
>   > > -Donny 
> 
=== message truncated ===



       
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