Bob,
I haven't installed one of these for about 2 years,
so I pulled out one from an MGB distributor (B43D) to take a look at. I
usually take the distributor out of the engine to make it easier to set up the
kit. Make a reference mark on the outside of the housing at #1 fireing position
for setting things up later on.
You do remove the points and condenser with the
associated wiring. Leave the ground wire if there is one though. Leave the
breaker plate intact as you use it to mount the light beam module (sensor as you
refer to it). The small brackets supplied are definitely "Rube Goldberg"
and if I recall, there are several sets depending on which kit you got. I'm sure
you have all the parts in the kit to install it. You will be fitting a couple
delicate looking brackets together, but they really do work pretty well when all
assembled.
The light beam module (about 1" x 3/4" x
1/2") should have a notch/recess at the back (opposite side from the light
emmitter/sensor) that has three screw holes. You will likely only use one of the
holes (center in the case of the MGB dist). I then have two small, frail looking
metal brackets with about 1" long slots. The one that attaches to the
light beam module has a right-angle twist. The straight slot mounts to the
module using one of he three screw positions and serves as the up-and-down
adjustment so that the shutter wheel/slotted disc is centered between the upper
and lower light emmitters when all is assembled. The other end of the twisted
bracket has an arc-shaped slot that attaches another shorter stepped bracket to
it.
This stepped bracket attaches to the breaker plate
in any hole near the outside perimeter. The arc slot of the twisted bracket
should follow the circumference of the breaker plate about 5/8" above the
breaker plate.
Before mounting the module assembly to the
breaker plate, install the appropriate shutter wheel over the points
lobe under the stock rotor stub. Measure the distance of the shutter wheel
above the breaker plate, and rough-adjust the brackets for the module so the
rotor falls between the two light emmitters.
Once the adjustment is close, trial-assemble
the shutter wheel (over the shaft) and module assembly to the breaker
plate, kind of at the same time if it is close-clearanced like mine. Make any
adjustments to get the shutter wheel centered beween the light emmitters,
(elevation from the breaker plate), then install the stock rotor and rotate the
engine (or dist. shaft) until it points to #1 fireing position (if you
marked this position as a reference point before you started the
installation). Then check/adjust the module using the arc slot to align any
one of slots in the shutter wheel with the light emmitters.
When it all lines up, take it apart to feed the
wires through the hole in the side of the distributor housing (if nessary) and
re-assemble.
Follow the wiring diagram for the control
module and it all should work. You will have to use a timing light to set
the ignition timing when you start it.
Sorry for the long-winded proceedure, but I hope
this helps. Give me a call if you have any other questions at (305) 852-0110.
Thanks - Donny
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 5:01
PM
Subject: [MarcosManiacs] HELP Conversion
to pointless ignition
Donny,
Well I purchased the Crane 700 system and am excited
about
the prospects of installing it and getting rid
of the
points.
Unfortunately the "stupids" seem to have set in at my
garage
and I cannot figure out how to mount the sensor
in the distributor. As I
read the instructions it
says to remove the points and condenser and wiring
to
the coil. It is unclear if I am also supposed to
remove the points
mounting plate? Is the sensor
supposed to mount to the points mounting
plate and be
able to move with the advance mechinism? There does
not
seem to be a straighforward way to mount the
sensor so it can be adjusted
for the proper timing.
Is the mounting of the sensor an easy bolt
in
procedure or am I supposed to fabricate some sort of
Rube Goldberg
bracket system to get it mounted? ...or
am I making this harder than it
needs to be?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Bob
Magotti
--- Donny Lang <indigo@terranova.net>
wrote:
> Bob, I can't verify which Crane ignition is needed
>
for your distributor , but a "universal" 700-0231
> kit has worked well
for conversions in the past.
> Call the Crane tech number at (386)
258-6174 to try
> to confirm your needs. They carry both the XR
700
> and XR 3000 systems. I have always used the less
> expensive
XR 700, so can't comment on the pricier
> one. The kits consist of a
light beam/shutter wheel
> for under the distributor cap, and an
electronics
> box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes
to
> be mounted in the engine compartment. By the way, I
> haven't
had problems with tach function when I have
> used these. I hope this
helps. - Donny
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob
Magnotti
> To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 9:24 AM
> Subject: Re:
[MarcosManiacs] Conversion to
> pointless ignition
>
>
> Without removing the manifold and carburetors I
>
looked
> at the Distributor this morning and the only
> numbers
I
> can see on it are 41882 A 59D4
>
> Are these the
numbers I need to determine which
> kit is
> needed for the
conversion?
>
> Bob Magnotti
>
> --- Donny Lang
<indigo@terranova.net>
wrote:
>
> > Richard and Paul,
> > I too can vouch
for the reliability of the Crane
> > ignition systems. I've had a
Crane XR 700 in my
> TR8
> > for over 12 years and it has been
absolutely
> > flawless. That system replaced a Pertrinix
>
system
> > that lasted less than a week. I've used the
> >
Luminition system in a few cars for
> > friend/customers, but they
have not lasted as
> long
> > as the Crane ignitions, typically
only a couple
> > years. To date, I have never had a failure of
a
> > Crane XR 700 or 7000 out of nearly a dozen
>
installed
> > on various vehicles. The only ignition that
>
> surpasses the Crane for reliability is a Piranah
> > system I
put on my Dad's BMW 2002 back in 1977.
> I
> > still have the
car and it will sometimes still
> start
> > by just turning the
ignition on- no starter! You
> can
> > hear the spark plugs
zapping in the cylinder. I
> > haven't seen another one of these is
close to 25
> > years.
> > -Donny
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: Paul Dransfield
> > To:
MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:14 AM
> > Subject: RE:
[MarcosManiacs] Conversion to
> > pointless ignition
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Richard,
> >
>
> I originally had a Petronics system in my car
> but
> > it
failed after only a couple of years. I bought
> the
> > system
in England a long time ago. That was when
> I
> > thought I'd
switched to Lumenition. Just goes to
> > show how l trouble free my
ignition systems has
> been
> > over the last ten years because
I just went to
> > double check my installation on the car
and
> realized
> > I had intended to install a Lumenition
system
> but
> > opted for a Crame Cams XR700 system
instead.
> That's
> > the system I've had for 10 years without
a
> single
> > glitch. It's been so long since I installed
it,
> I'd
> > forgotten what system I actually had. I'm
sorry
> for
> > the previous misleading info but at least I
have
> it
> > right now.
> >
> > For the
information of any 3 litre Volvo owners,
> I
> > don't have the
standard Volvo 160 distributor
> > because my car has a high
performance engine
> putting
> > out 235 bhp and the
distributor which came with
> it
> > doesn't have vacuum
connections. It's much
> larger
> > than the standard one
because the internal
> > components are more substantial.
>
>
> > However, Crane Cams have an XR700 universal
> >
installation kit to fit any 4, 6 or 8 cylinder
> > distributor. Just
go to this page on their
> website -
> >
>
>
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=182
>
> - where they list the various manufacturers. For
> > Ford, they
list products for applications as far
> > back as 1960. I'm sure the
have something for
> any of
> > the Marcos Ford or Volvo
engines.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Paul
Dransfield
> > 3 litre Volvo
> >
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Porter"
> > To:
MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
>
> Subject: RE: [MarcosManiacs] Conversion to
> > pointless
ignition
>; > Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 10:53:45 +0100
> >
> >
> > On 13 May 2007 Garry Diver wrote:
> >
> > > Try Luminition. It works with the Tach.
> >
> > > Garry
> >
> > >>From: "Bob M"
<rhdspritemk1@yahoo.com>
>
> >>Reply-To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
>
> >>To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
>
> >>Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Conversion to
> > pointless
ignition
> > >;>Date: Sun, 13 May 2007 15:07:27 -0000
>
> >>
> > >>I have been trying to find the
proper
> > conversion kit for my 1600GT. I
> > >>want
to get rid of the points in the Lucas
> > distributor which are
hard
> > >>to adjust because my car has the twin weber
>
> set up.
> > >>
> > >>Have any of the 1600
GT owners converted to
> > one of these kits, and if
> >
>>so does your tach still work with the kit? I
> > have been
trying to get
> > >>one of the kits for a while and to date
I
> > cannot find a kit that will
> > >>work with the
Smiths Tach.
> >
> > There are different types of Smiths
tacho. Some
> > are wired just by
> > passing the LT coil
wire (either side) through
> > an induction loop,
> > while
others require a direct connection to the
> > contact breaker side
> > of the coil.
> >
> > However, whilst
Lumention should work with both
> > types, I would
> >
actually recomment the Petronics Ignitor
> > (marketed by Aldon in
the UK)
> > which fits inside the Lucas distributor and has
>
> a magnetic collar that
> > fits around the shaft under the
rotor arm. It
> > uses the Hall effect
> > rather than an
optical sensor.
> >
> > --
> > _
> >
|_|. _ Richard Porter
>; > http://www.minijem.plus.com/
>
> |\_||_ mailto:ricp@minijem.plus.com
>
>
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> >;
> >
> >
>
>
>
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