Wow, thanks for the epic reply, Peter.
After reading I've decided that I wouldn't want to change anything
about the M13's sound just to get a shorter decay. Now, If I had a
bunch of them then I might go tinkering for the sake of variety.
--- In PLAN_B_analog_blog@yahoogroups.com, "(i think you can figure
that out)" <peter@...> wrote:
>
> You can alter the decay - the ringing - of the Model 13. This is
due to circuitry I have
> added to cut the bleeding down. You can't do this with Doepfer
LPGs, or Buchla 292's for
> that matter, nor with the Wiard Borg which is very close to the
Buchla 292 in design.
>
> Looking at the PCB, you'll first notice it's basically two
duplicate circuits (one each for the
> two TG's) with a slender line of circuitry in the middle (that's
the crossfader section).
>
> On each of the TG halves, at the bottom (edge) of their real estate
you'll see four pads in a
> line that are ellipically shaped. In older M13s there are wires
soldered to these pads which
> go to the faceplate. Newer models have a parallel connection via a
12 (and now 14) pin in
> line connector in the center of the board which lies right in front
of the corssfader pot's
> backside. Holding the PCB so that the power connector is on the
upper right, to the left of
> those four pads you'll see two others labelled J1. In older PCBS -
those before rev. 2, there
> a standup resistor soldered into J1. In Rev. 2 and above, another
resistor was added
> directly to the left of those two pads - a 470 K ohm resistor.
Those resistors, either
> configured as a standup in the J1 pads, or from the added resistor
next to them are the
> current limiters that determines how much of the bleed killer is
mixed into the the circuit.
>
> J1 was configured as it was because it will allow for a two
position jumper block to be
> installed - like the little things that were on the back of SCSI
disk drives to set their ID
> number. Inserting a jumper there puts the bleed killer on
maximum. removing the
> jumper would remove it altogether. I stopped installing those
jumper blocks early on
> because of availability issues with the jumpers. I was not willing
to slow delivery down to
> to a G.D. part that for some reason (still surprised by that) -
hard to get. THey were listed
> in supplier site, but constantly sold out.
>
> The lower that resistance, the less bleed and slightly less ringing
or response time to the
> DECAY of the vactrol. In earlier models I was shipping with a zero
ohm resistor in there -
> putting the bleed killer on maximum, which also cut back the
decay. Later I started
> allowing less of that into the circuit, which slightly increased
the bleeding, but made the
> ring longer - that's the 470K resistor.
>
> If you want to cut back the amount of ringing, increase the value
of those resistors. If you
> want more, increase it or, to get the longest possible ring, remove
those parts altogether.
> Just cut them out. This will make the vacs rings at their
maximum. Unfortunately, it also
> effects the level of vac's inherent bleed. WIth no resistor in
there, the bleed is about 3mv -
> meaning when the gate is fully closed, about 3mv of signal is still
allowed through the
> device at it's outputs. On the other side of the possible
variables - a zero ohm (a jumper
> i.e. no resistance), there's only a third of a mv of bleed, but
about half the ringing.
>
> Don't shoot me about the bleeding - it's not my fault! it's the
vacs. Their technology does
> not allow them to close to zero ohms. At best they will close down
to only 80 ohms. WIth
> the bleed killer set with a zero ohm resistor, the bleed is pretty
much inaudible, unless
> you're gating very very harmonically rich signals with pure silence
in between events. With
> the resistor removed (the bleeder then is taken out of the
circuit). the bleeding is a lot
> more prevalent.
>
> Another issue is no two vactrrols have the same amount of bleed.
You will need to tune
> each if you want them to ring the exact same amount. Again this is
due to vactrerol
> technology. If you look at the Perkin-Elmer spec sheet, you'll see
a spec clled DARK
> RESISTANCE AFTER TEN SECONDS. THe After seconds part was not
thrown in there to fill a
> line - it's there because PE felt that was a safe amount of time to
assure the vactrol was
> fully closed - meaning some of them will take almost as long.
Again, part of their charm!
> THe ringing get to be more of an issue with the Model 12 vacsa - we
actually have to bin
> them before hand to cut it back to the point I think that filtwer
sounds best. THose which
> don't make the mark are used in the M15 crossfader bacuaee bleed is
less of an issue - it
> actually makes for smoother crossfading. The M13 usesa a slightly
different vactrol than
> the ones used in the model 12, 15 and 24, but they still don't go
down to zero ohms. No
> vactrols do.
>
> In summary - you can play around with alternatives if you want less
(or more) bleeding. A
> zero ohm cuts the ringing (and bleeding) down to it's maximum.
Removing the part
> altogether is the other side of the scale - maximum ring and
bleed. If you really hate the
> ring there's a little more you can do - either replace the vac with
another type - one which
> is by design much faster -or- get a Deopfer LPG. He used an
exteremely fast vac which
> has little or no ringing. If you elect to change the vac in the
M13 - make sure it's a dual
> resistant element type. These are the ones that have three leads
onthe resistor side, not
> just two.
>
> I chose the vacs I did because I like the ringing as i feel it's
part of the module's
> personality. They are really dead sounding in comparison without
it.
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>
> Hope this helps,
>
> - P
>