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Re: [QuadtoneRIP] Re: emulating platinum/palladium

2008-10-10 by Michael Gray

Jason,

Joost seems similarly confused on one point as I do.

Backtracking to William Willis' (1841�1923) original platinum process,  
this produces images which are neutral black with a bias toward a deep  
blue black, that is, in its basic form. Later modifications to his  
process included, first of all, palladium (the chloride) which extends  
the tonal range and increases the warmth of the end result - shifting  
the colour to a deep purple-brown-black in the shadow areas. If in  
addition, two or three drops of gold chloride (gold 3) are added to  
the sensitiser this imparts a subtle rose tint to the highlight areas.  
Most platinum printers and photographers that I know in the UK tend to  
reject any modifications that might possibly bias their prints towards  
green!

Back to digital simulation.

ImagePrint possess a subtle and extensive range of controls for this  
form of manipulation and  which is about on a par with that of  
QuadtoneRIP ( which I use). The basic split tone controls can be quite  
simply configured to give results that are almost impossible to  
distinguish from a platinum-paladium print.

  I would recommend the use of  William Turner - Heavy Weight 310gsm   
available from Fotospeed  or one of their US agents; checkout their  
website for info on:

Hahnem�hle German Etching, 310 gsm
and William-Turner-310gsm.

Michael



On 6 Oct 2008, at 15:01, Joost Horsten wrote:

> Hi Jason,
>
> As I was a bit intrigued your post I checked out the link the Ken
> provided and I played a bit with the hue/saturation curves he
> suggested. It turns out that the platinum and platinum curves do not
> seem to provide any greenish tones at all.... They are more in the  
> warm-
> brownish area. Isn't that what you're seeking for?
>
> I checked a bit the Lab a and Lab b values one gets with these
> hue/saturation curves, but most of them are around Lab b ~ 5-7 (so
> towards the yellow, but desaturated enough to use carbon only and not
> needing yellow) and Lab a ~ 2 (so just a bit towards the red). Such
> tone should be very easy to achieve by mixing a warm QTR curve and a
> selenium QTR curve. As a matter of fact, this turns out to be one of  
> my
> favorite settings of my 2100 + UT3D inks (an inkset that includes a
> specific selenium toner). (Unfortunately, my 2100 passed away this
> summer and I am now getting up to speed on my new 3800 + UC inks.)
>
> However, I checked the provided QTR curves and there do not seem to be
> any selenium curves for the 2400. So, you're still on your own to
> create that. As said in my earlier post, I'm currently working on a
> selenium curve for the 3800. I'm happy to share it, but it will only
> work for you as source of inspiration.
>
> I'm not sure how serious you are in this, but if toned B&W printing is
> really your thing, I would seriously consider to set up a dedicated
> printer with UT3D inks.
>
> Joost
>
>
>
>
> 

Michael Gray
exxmwg@...

http://www.michael-gray.org

Director and Partner:		Image Research Associates
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Lisbon 1992-
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