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2005-10-20 by architekphoto
I'm thinking of trying the K7 inkset on my 2100. What is a good procedure for flushing out the last of the colour ink from the 2200? Is it just a question of making a few "flush" prints, or is it necessary to buy cleaning carts? I didn't see any cleaning carts advertised on the K7 page, so I assume its just a question of making a couple of prints to flush the colour inks out.
2005-10-20 by Mark Stracke
The info that comes with the K7 inks informs us that no flushing is necessary. I bought a 2200 to run the K7's, made a number of color prints to be assured that the printer was working correctly and replaced the color carts with the K7 carts. The printer has worked flawlessly with the K7s from the get-go. So the info seems to be accurate. Mark
> I didn't see any cleaning carts advertised on the K7 page, so I assume > its just a question of making a couple of prints to flush the colour > inks out. >
2005-10-21 by Bob Hove
I did the same thing - ran a few color prints to make sure everything was ok, changed to the K7 carts, ran one cleaning cycle and started doing black & white prints that came out great, with no color showing. Bob _____
From: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com [mailto:QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Stracke Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 7:50 PM To: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com Subject: [QuadtoneRIP] Re: Switching from Ultrachrome to K7 The info that comes with the K7 inks informs us that no flushing is necessary. I bought a 2200 to run the K7's, made a number of color prints to be assured that the printer was working correctly and replaced the color carts with the K7 carts. The printer has worked flawlessly with the K7s from the get-go. So the info seems to be accurate. Mark > I didn't see any cleaning carts advertised on the K7 page, so I assume > its just a question of making a couple of prints to flush the colour > inks out. > _____ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS * Visit your group "QuadtoneRIP <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/QuadtoneRIP> " on the web. * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: QuadtoneRIP-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <mailto:QuadtoneRIP-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service. _____
2005-10-22 by Jon Cone
Many of our customers are simply switching back and forth between the K7 and EPSON Ultrachrome inks - printing b&w with K7 and then color with Ultrachrome. In the past we asked customers to dedicate a printer to our inks. Now you don't need to do that if you do not want. K7 is technically a very compatible ink set to Ultrachrome. So no flush is needed. It is also our first ink set in which we are telling people they don't have to babysit their printers. You can shut them off for a few weeks and get back to printing right off. Jon Cone --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "architekphoto" <paul@a...> wrote:
> > I'm thinking of trying the K7 inkset on my 2100. > > What is a good procedure for flushing out the last of the colour ink > from the 2200? Is it just a question of making a few "flush" prints, > or is it necessary to buy cleaning carts? > > I didn't see any cleaning carts advertised on the K7 page, so I assume > its just a question of making a couple of prints to flush the colour > inks out. >
2005-10-22 by architekphoto
That is very good news. Would this also hold true with my 4000? Or would I be wasting a lot of ink when I switched cartridges? This would be really nice to do with the 4000. --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cone" <piezobw@c...> wrote: > > Many of our customers are simply switching back and forth between the K7 and EPSON > Ultrachrome inks - printing b&w with K7 and then color with Ultrachrome. >
2005-10-23 by Jon Cone
I don't think that its worth it to do this with a 4000. You do not need to flush however. All you need to do is an "INIT FILL" followed by two KK2 CLEANINGS. However, you lose about 10% of the previous ink with an init fill, and you take up about 30% or more of the maintenance tank. After awhile this is going to begin costing you an arm and a leg. Wouldn't be a problem if you do it every once in awhile. But I don't think its practical for frequent changing. Jon --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "architekphoto" <paul@a...> wrote:
> > That is very good news. Would this also hold true with my 4000? Or > would I be wasting a lot of ink when I switched cartridges? > > This would be really nice to do with the 4000. > > --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cone" <piezobw@c...> wrote: > > > > Many of our customers are simply switching back and forth between > the K7 and EPSON > > Ultrachrome inks - printing b&w with K7 and then color with Ultrachrome. > > >
2005-10-25 by architekphoto
I would envisage switching, printing an edition, then switching back so this isn't such a bit issue. It would not happen often. Thanks for the feedback.
2005-10-25 by Jon Cone
In that case keep a spare maintenance tank handy. Because if it fills - it shuts the printer down. Jon --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "architekphoto" <paul@a...> wrote:
> > I would envisage switching, printing an edition, then switching back > so this isn't such a bit issue. It would not happen often. > > Thanks for the feedback. >
2005-10-27 by Howard Shaw
I'm wondering if anyone has tried split toning effects with qtr and how they went about it. I'm using UT7 and wish for example to create a print that is _slightly_ cool in the shadows and midrange and warmer in the highlights. I thought the best way to approach this would be to use a basic warm curve and then introduce the cooler magenta inks as toning curves (M as toner curve & LM as toner curve 2). However I can't seem to get the toner curves to start at anything other than 100 no matter what I put in the density box for these inks. The two toner curves also almost completely overlap each other so it doesn't seem possible to have one toner ink smoothly graduate into the other. Any ideas? Thanks Howard
2005-10-27 by Tom Moore
Howard I created exactly such a curve for UT7 and Ilford Smooth pearl. You can shift the transition point by blending it with a cool or warm curve in qtr. I created this after seeing Paul Roarks fishing shack image. However, once I understood his technique I realized the limitations of using tone to determine hue. He blends two layers - a warm and a cool layer to create the image - very cool (pun intended). You don't state which paper you are using so my curve may not work for you. However, could use some of the ideas, particularly moving the starting point off 100. I'll send you a copy of the qidf today... once I find it. Tom Moore > -----Original Message----- > From: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com [mailto:QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of Howard Shaw > Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 6:43 AM > To: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [QuadtoneRIP] Split toning > > I'm wondering if anyone has tried split toning effects with qtr and how > they > went about it. > ... > > Any ideas? ...
2005-10-27 by Roy Harrington
Howard, You've got a good start. Usually a "toner" ink runs all the way into the shadows. In general that works just fine. But if you'd like it just to match the warm grays, one simple way is to just use COPY_CURVE to copy the warm gray curves into the cool gray curves. You'll want to reduce all of the grays ink limits since there's twice as much ink. This ought to give you a pretty neutral curve set. Now just vary the ink limits to tilt the hue warm or cool. Warm highlights means more light warm less light cool, and opposite for the dark grays. As long as you are doing subtle amounts the transitions should be fine. Roy On Thursday, October 27, 2005, at 03:42 AM, Howard Shaw wrote: > I'm wondering if anyone has tried split toning effects with qtr and > how they > went about it. > > I'm using UT7 and wish for example to create a print that is > _slightly_ cool > in the shadows and midrange and warmer in the highlights. > > I thought the best way to approach this would be to use a basic warm > curve > and then introduce the cooler magenta inks as toning curves (M as toner > curve & LM as toner curve 2). > > However I can't seem to get the toner curves to start at anything > other than > 100 no matter what I put in the density box for these inks. The two > toner > curves also almost completely overlap each other so it doesn't seem > possible > to have one toner ink smoothly graduate into the other. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks > Howard > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > - Roy Harrington roy@... Black & White Photo Gallery http://www.harrington.com
2005-10-27 by Tom Moore
Howard
I've posted the curves to the files section under
UT7-IlfSmoothPearlSplitWC.ZIP
In general, you can make the toner (or any curve) start at a point higher
than 0% by using one of the otherwise unused inks and assigning it to the
same curve at a lower density and setting its limit to zero. You can control
where your curve starts by adjusting the density of the zero limited ink. If
you look at the UT7-IlfordSmoothPearl curves in the distribution you'll see
an example of this method.
For my split curve I did not use a toner (actually I did but not to create
the split). I just used the warm light ink (LC) and the cool dark (M) ink as
if I were creating a regular curve. As in the other ISP curves, I used the
complementary dark ink (in this case C) as a toner in the deep shadows
portion of the curve to get the best dmax.
For matte papers you could use a similar approach using the LC, M and K inks
to create a warm/cool split. I had in mind to blend the split curve with
either the warm or cool curves in QTR to move the split point up or down the
tonal range. Roy's suggestion might be more effective at doing that, but not
as flexible in that you do it when you create the curve rather than when you
print.
Hopefully you'll let us know how your curves turn out (and share them as
well)
Good luck.
Tom Moore> -----Original Message----- > From: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com [mailto:QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of Roy Harrington > Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 12:34 PM > To: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [QuadtoneRIP] Split toning > > Howard, > > You've got a good start. > Usually a "toner" ink runs all the way into the shadows. In general > that works > just fine. But if you'd like it just to match the warm grays, one > simple way is > to just use COPY_CURVE to copy the warm gray curves into the cool gray > curves. > You'll want to reduce all of the grays ink limits since there's twice > as much ink. > > This ought to give you a pretty neutral curve set. Now just vary the > ink limits > to tilt the hue warm or cool. Warm highlights means more light warm > less light cool, > and opposite for the dark grays. > > As long as you are doing subtle amounts the transitions should be fine. >
2005-10-27 by Howard Shaw
Thanks for your help Tom & Roy. I will be experimenting over the next few days & will let you know how I get on. Howard Tom Moore wrote:
> Howard > > I've posted the curves to the files section under > UT7-IlfSmoothPearlSplitWC.ZIP > > In general, you can make the toner (or any curve) start at a point higher > than 0% by using one of the otherwise unused inks and assigning it to the > same curve at a lower density and setting its limit to zero. You can control > where your curve starts by adjusting the density of the zero limited ink. If > you look at the UT7-IlfordSmoothPearl curves in the distribution you'll see > an example of this method. > > For my split curve I did not use a toner (actually I did but not to create > the split). I just used the warm light ink (LC) and the cool dark (M) ink as > if I were creating a regular curve. As in the other ISP curves, I used the > complementary dark ink (in this case C) as a toner in the deep shadows > portion of the curve to get the best dmax. > > For matte papers you could use a similar approach using the LC, M and K inks > to create a warm/cool split. I had in mind to blend the split curve with > either the warm or cool curves in QTR to move the split point up or down the > tonal range. Roy's suggestion might be more effective at doing that, but not > as flexible in that you do it when you create the curve rather than when you > print. > > Hopefully you'll let us know how your curves turn out (and share them as > well) > > Good luck. > > Tom Moore > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com [mailto:QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com] On > > Behalf Of Roy Harrington > > Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 12:34 PM > > To: QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: Re: [QuadtoneRIP] Split toning > > > > Howard, > > > > You've got a good start. > > Usually a "toner" ink runs all the way into the shadows. In general > > that works > > just fine. But if you'd like it just to match the warm grays, one > > simple way is > > to just use COPY_CURVE to copy the warm gray curves into the cool gray > > curves. > > You'll want to reduce all of the grays ink limits since there's twice > > as much ink. > > > > This ought to give you a pretty neutral curve set. Now just vary the > > ink limits > > to tilt the hue warm or cool. Warm highlights means more light warm > > less light cool, > > and opposite for the dark grays. > > > > As long as you are doing subtle amounts the transitions should be fine. > > > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS > Digital wedding photography > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Digital+wedding+photography&w1=Digital+wedding+photography&w2=Learn+digital+photography&w3=Digital+photography+college&w4=Digital+photography&w5=Digital+photography+web+site&w6=Digital+photography+course&c=6&s=188&.sig=Umur-3rsLOic7dZMwVL94w> > Learn digital photography > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Learn+digital+photography&w1=Digital+wedding+photography&w2=Learn+digital+photography&w3=Digital+photography+college&w4=Digital+photography&w5=Digital+photography+web+site&w6=Digital+photography+course&c=6&s=188&.sig=emApqtvj0kHQhppIzRrNgw> > Digital photography college > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Digital+photography+college&w1=Digital+wedding+photography&w2=Learn+digital+photography&w3=Digital+photography+college&w4=Digital+photography&w5=Digital+photography+web+site&w6=Digital+photography+course&c=6&s=188&.sig=aIiABJLTZsUnmWBs4mZwuA> > > Digital photography > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Digital+photography&w1=Digital+wedding+photography&w2=Learn+digital+photography&w3=Digital+photography+college&w4=Digital+photography&w5=Digital+photography+web+site&w6=Digital+photography+course&c=6&s=188&.sig=pJmwqgVzec3JGBtWYlPbOg> > Digital photography web site > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Digital+photography+web+site&w1=Digital+wedding+photography&w2=Learn+digital+photography&w3=Digital+photography+college&w4=Digital+photography&w5=Digital+photography+web+site&w6=Digital+photography+course&c=6&s=188&.sig=BMII8rtDZlAtVdZsPhaZqw> > Digital photography course > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Digital+photography+course&w1=Digital+wedding+photography&w2=Learn+digital+photography&w3=Digital+photography+college&w4=Digital+photography&w5=Digital+photography+web+site&w6=Digital+photography+course&c=6&s=188&.sig=OrnrutXVhHZu-7E7ccLtuw> > > > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > * Visit your group "QuadtoneRIP > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/QuadtoneRIP>" on the web. > > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > QuadtoneRIP-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:QuadtoneRIP-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> > > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>. > > >
2005-11-14 by steveh0607
--- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Cone" <piezobw@c...> wrote: I just bought the K7 inkset. All I had to do was clean the heads once and away I went. It's that simple. And by the way, you really can tone the prints by switching papers. The Bradford Brilliant White prints cold and Bradford Natural prints warm. I've tried many of the papers included in QTR for the K7 inks. I'm leaning towards Hahnemule William Turner and Innova Soft Texture. Thanks Jon for a wonderful inkset!! Steve > > Many of our customers are simply switching back and forth between the K7 and EPSON > Ultrachrome inks - printing b&w with K7 and then color with Ultrachrome. > > In the past we asked customers to dedicate a printer to our inks. Now you don't need to do > that if you do not want. K7 is technically a very compatible ink set to Ultrachrome. So no > flush is needed. It is also our first ink set in which we are telling people they don't have to > babysit their printers. You can shut them off for a few weeks and get back to printing right
> off. > > Jon Cone > > > --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "architekphoto" <paul@a...> wrote: > > > > I'm thinking of trying the K7 inkset on my 2100. > > > > What is a good procedure for flushing out the last of the colour ink > > from the 2200? Is it just a question of making a few "flush" prints, > > or is it necessary to buy cleaning carts? > > > > I didn't see any cleaning carts advertised on the K7 page, so I assume > > its just a question of making a couple of prints to flush the colour > > inks out. > > >