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More newbie questions

More newbie questions

2006-01-19 by c10h14no2i

When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter which IC
I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a tl071SM
CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps give me
many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
should know it by now, but Im learning.
(this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
only the PCB's this time)

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-19 by Pete

If you read the data sheet it will give you more info on the lettering or
numbering. The lettering may represent what the part is made of, and if its
SMD or DIP. Dip is what we are looking for, or sometimes it shows as a PDIP.
If you go to the bottom of the data sheet it will show you a pic of the part
in different configurations, and most likely what the extra letters mean. I
get stumped all the time on the extra letters at the end of a part, and I
spend too much time trying to find the right part I need for a project.
Check out these links, they will help you identify some parts, (resistors
and caps)

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/ElectronicTools/CapacitorChart.html

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/ElectronicTools/ResistorChart.html

http://www.bobknarley.com/synth/capcodes.html
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On 1/19/06, c10h14no2i <c10h14no2i@...> wrote:
>
> When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter which IC
> I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
> not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a tl071SM
> CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps give me
> many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
> should know it by now, but Im learning.
> (this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
> Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
> only the PCB's this time)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
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>
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> on the web.
>
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>
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>
> ------------------------------
>



--
listen to my tunes,

http://www.cubanpetemusic.com/12_21_04%20final%20mix.mp3

www.cubanpetemusic.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-19 by sasami@hotkey.net.au

Often these letters refer to the type of packaging the chip comes in.
Sometimes it makes no difference (except maybe to the price) - plastic or
ceramic for example. Some times it does make a difference - DIP or surface
mount for example. The datasheet should give the details, even if the
catalog doesn't.

I don't specify this because these can vary brand to brand. If I say TL071,
what I am saying is "any brand or package of TL071 that will fit on the board".

With electros, the voltage on it needs to be equal to, or higher, than the
one I give.

Resistors need to be at least 1/4W (the standard for small resistors),
though higher ratings that will physically fit are okay. As for resistors,
5% tollerance is assumed if no value is given, though using 2% or 1%
resistors is fine. In fact, the preferred resistor type is metal film 1%,
but they do cost a little more.

Ken
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter which IC
>I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
>not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a tl071SM
>CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps give me
>many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
>should know it by now, but Im learning.
>(this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
>Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
>only the PCB's this time)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@...
Modular Synth PCBs for sale <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/synth/>
Australian Miniature Horses & Ponies <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/>

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-19 by Richard Brewster

I buy resistors from Mouser. http://www.mouser.com

I always buy the 1% metal film, the 271- series, (271-10K-RC for 10K is
the new number for RoHS non-leaded). These cost 9 cents each, but 2
cents each for 200. Figure it out. You can buy 50 for $4.50 or 200 for
$4.00. If you do any serious DIY electronics you will be glad you
bought 200 and then you won't say, gee I only have two 39K resistors left.


-Richard Brewster

http://www.pugix.com

sasami@... wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>Often these letters refer to the type of packaging the chip comes in.
>Sometimes it makes no difference (except maybe to the price) - plastic or
>ceramic for example. Some times it does make a difference - DIP or surface
>mount for example. The datasheet should give the details, even if the
>catalog doesn't.
>
>I don't specify this because these can vary brand to brand. If I say TL071,
>what I am saying is "any brand or package of TL071 that will fit on the board".
>
>With electros, the voltage on it needs to be equal to, or higher, than the
>one I give.
>
>Resistors need to be at least 1/4W (the standard for small resistors),
>though higher ratings that will physically fit are okay. As for resistors,
>5% tollerance is assumed if no value is given, though using 2% or 1%
>resistors is fine. In fact, the preferred resistor type is metal film 1%,
>but they do cost a little more.
>
>Ken
>
>
>
>>When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter which IC
>>I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
>>not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a tl071SM
>>CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps give me
>>many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
>>should know it by now, but Im learning.
>>(this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
>>Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
>>only the PCB's this time)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>>
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>_______________________________________________________________________
>Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@...
>Modular Synth PCBs for sale <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/synth/>
>Australian Miniature Horses & Ponies <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/>
>
>
>
>The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-20 by xamboldt

I was under the impression that the RoHS resistors had a limited
shelf life - is that incorrect?

-Chris
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Jan 19, 2006, at 7:01 PM, Richard Brewster wrote:

> I buy resistors from Mouser. http://www.mouser.com
>
> I always buy the 1% metal film, the 271- series, (271-10K-RC for
> 10K is
> the new number for RoHS non-leaded). These cost 9 cents each, but 2
> cents each for 200. Figure it out. You can buy 50 for $4.50 or
> 200 for
> $4.00. If you do any serious DIY electronics you will be glad you
> bought 200 and then you won't say, gee I only have two 39K
> resistors left.
>
>
> -Richard Brewster
>
> http://www.pugix.com
>
> sasami@... wrote:
>
>> Often these letters refer to the type of packaging the chip comes in.
>> Sometimes it makes no difference (except maybe to the price) -
>> plastic or
>> ceramic for example. Some times it does make a difference - DIP or
>> surface
>> mount for example. The datasheet should give the details, even if the
>> catalog doesn't.
>>
>> I don't specify this because these can vary brand to brand. If I
>> say TL071,
>> what I am saying is "any brand or package of TL071 that will fit
>> on the board".
>>
>> With electros, the voltage on it needs to be equal to, or higher,
>> than the
>> one I give.
>>
>> Resistors need to be at least 1/4W (the standard for small
>> resistors),
>> though higher ratings that will physically fit are okay. As for
>> resistors,
>> 5% tollerance is assumed if no value is given, though using 2% or 1%
>> resistors is fine. In fact, the preferred resistor type is metal
>> film 1%,
>> but they do cost a little more.
>>
>> Ken
>>
>>
>>
>>> When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter
>>> which IC
>>> I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
>>> not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a
>>> tl071SM
>>> CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps
>>> give me
>>> many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
>>> should know it by now, but Im learning.
>>> (this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
>>> Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
>>> only the PCB's this time)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> __
>> Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@...
>> Modular Synth PCBs for sale <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/synth/>
>> Australian Miniature Horses & Ponies <http://www.blaze.net.au/
>> ~sasami/>
>>
>>
>>
>> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-20 by sasami@hotkey.net.au

EVERYTHING has a limited shelf life, the old stuff included. I get bulk
resistor lots cheap on occasion because the masking tape they use for the
automatic feeders has gone off. I also have other parts where the leads have
become unsolderable through oxidation. Just twist the lead in a bit of fine
grit sand paper or scrape it with a knife.

Ken
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>I was under the impression that the RoHS resistors had a limited
>shelf life - is that incorrect?
>
>-Chris
>
>
>On Jan 19, 2006, at 7:01 PM, Richard Brewster wrote:
>
>> I buy resistors from Mouser. http://www.mouser.com
>>
>> I always buy the 1% metal film, the 271- series, (271-10K-RC for
>> 10K is
>> the new number for RoHS non-leaded). These cost 9 cents each, but 2
>> cents each for 200. Figure it out. You can buy 50 for $4.50 or
>> 200 for
>> $4.00. If you do any serious DIY electronics you will be glad you
>> bought 200 and then you won't say, gee I only have two 39K
>> resistors left.
>>
>>
>> -Richard Brewster
>>
>> http://www.pugix.com
>>
>> sasami@... wrote:
>>
>>> Often these letters refer to the type of packaging the chip comes in.
>>> Sometimes it makes no difference (except maybe to the price) -
>>> plastic or
>>> ceramic for example. Some times it does make a difference - DIP or
>>> surface
>>> mount for example. The datasheet should give the details, even if the
>>> catalog doesn't.
>>>
>>> I don't specify this because these can vary brand to brand. If I
>>> say TL071,
>>> what I am saying is "any brand or package of TL071 that will fit
>>> on the board".
>>>
>>> With electros, the voltage on it needs to be equal to, or higher,
>>> than the
>>> one I give.
>>>
>>> Resistors need to be at least 1/4W (the standard for small
>>> resistors),
>>> though higher ratings that will physically fit are okay. As for
>>> resistors,
>>> 5% tollerance is assumed if no value is given, though using 2% or 1%
>>> resistors is fine. In fact, the preferred resistor type is metal
>>> film 1%,
>>> but they do cost a little more.
>>>
>>> Ken
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter
>>>> which IC
>>>> I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
>>>> not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a
>>>> tl071SM
>>>> CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps
>>>> give me
>>>> many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
>>>> should know it by now, but Im learning.
>>>> (this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
>>>> Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
>>>> only the PCB's this time)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>>>>
>>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> _____________________________________________________________________
>>> __
>>> Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@...
>>> Modular Synth PCBs for sale <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/synth/>
>>> Australian Miniature Horses & Ponies <http://www.blaze.net.au/
>>> ~sasami/>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@...
Modular Synth PCBs for sale <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/synth/>
Australian Miniature Horses & Ponies <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/>

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-20 by c10h14no2i

well the reason I ask about the letters is because I used to build
little B.E.A.M. robots. For those, I needed the exact letter to be
correct. for example, one time I needed some 74hc14s. My local
electronics store said "well, we've got the 7414.. those should work
fine" I bought a bunch of them, tried them out, and no luck. They
did NOT work. Ordered some of the 74hc14's and they worked fine.

I just dont want to run into similar issues, only w/ a tun of IC's
that ive ordered online already, then have to wait a week before I can
start my project again.

In that particular case I think it was because the HC's could process
the signals faster.. something like that

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-20 by John Loffink

If the part is specified as a 74HCxx, then you should get the HC part, not a
74xx or 74LSxx or whatever part. The HC is a CMOS part with lower power and
noise. While other labeled parts may work, then will tend to introduce more
noise coupling into your power system and back to you other circuits.

John Loffink
The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
http://www.wavemakers-synth.com
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com [mailto:cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of c10h14no2i
>
> well the reason I ask about the letters is because I used to build
> little B.E.A.M. robots. For those, I needed the exact letter to be
> correct. for example, one time I needed some 74hc14s. My local
> electronics store said "well, we've got the 7414.. those should work
> fine" I bought a bunch of them, tried them out, and no luck. They
> did NOT work. Ordered some of the 74hc14's and they worked fine.
>
> I just dont want to run into similar issues, only w/ a tun of IC's
> that ive ordered online already, then have to wait a week before I can
> start my project again.
>
> In that particular case I think it was because the HC's could process
> the signals faster.. something like that
>

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-20 by sasami@hotkey.net.au

The difference is whether the letters are a suffix or not. The in 74HC14
indicates the type of chip, not the type of package. If letters are in the
middle of a part number, they are important. At the end they can refer to
the package, the quality and so on, where as in the middle it is actually
part of the device identifier.

7414 - plain old TTL
74C14 CMOS
74HC14 High speed CMOS
74HCT14 High speed "TTL complient" CMOS (i.e. runs of exactly 5V)

Ken
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>well the reason I ask about the letters is because I used to build
>little B.E.A.M. robots. For those, I needed the exact letter to be
>correct. for example, one time I needed some 74hc14s. My local
>electronics store said "well, we've got the 7414.. those should work
>fine" I bought a bunch of them, tried them out, and no luck. They
>did NOT work. Ordered some of the 74hc14's and they worked fine.
>
>I just dont want to run into similar issues, only w/ a tun of IC's
>that ive ordered online already, then have to wait a week before I can
>start my project again.
>
>In that particular case I think it was because the HC's could process
>the signals faster.. something like that
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>The CGS Modular Synth home page: http://www.cgs.synth.net/
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
Ken Stone sasami@... or sasami@...
Modular Synth PCBs for sale <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/synth/>
Australian Miniature Horses & Ponies <http://www.blaze.net.au/~sasami/>

Re: More newbie questions

2006-01-20 by John Loffink

Usually the suffixes refer to packaging styles. Always make sure you're
getting a DIP, not a SOIC or surface mount package. In the case of TL07X
series the A, B, and C refer to different Input Offset Voltage tolerances.
For the purposes of these circuits those parameters usually don't make a
difference, and where they do, you want something BETTER than a TL07X
anyway.

John Loffink
The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
http://www.wavemakers-synth.com
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com [mailto:cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of sasami@...
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:31 PM
> To: cgs_synth@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [cgs_synth] More newbie questions
>
> Often these letters refer to the type of packaging the chip comes in.
> Sometimes it makes no difference (except maybe to the price) - plastic or
> ceramic for example. Some times it does make a difference - DIP or surface
> mount for example. The datasheet should give the details, even if the
> catalog doesn't.
>
> I don't specify this because these can vary brand to brand. If I say
> TL071,
> what I am saying is "any brand or package of TL071 that will fit on the
> board".
>
> With electros, the voltage on it needs to be equal to, or higher, than the
> one I give.
>
> Resistors need to be at least 1/4W (the standard for small resistors),
> though higher ratings that will physically fit are okay. As for resistors,
> 5% tollerance is assumed if no value is given, though using 2% or 1%
> resistors is fine. In fact, the preferred resistor type is metal film 1%,
> but they do cost a little more.
>
> Ken
>
> >When im buying components to build my modules, does it matter which IC
> >I buy? many of them have letters listed on the end of them that are
> >not listed on the parts list. Say I need a tl071, do I get a tl071SM
> >CD ACM ACP, etc.... Even simple parts like resistors and caps give me
> >many options. I know this is some basic electronic stuff, and I
> >should know it by now, but Im learning.
> >(this is why I ordered my first few modules as kits from elby.. but
> >Ive already picked out a few more that I want, and would like to get
> >only the PCB's this time)
> >
> >

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