hi david, many thanks, looks like i got to go a bit deeper into the schematics of the cp, the peeling seems to be a bit tricky, but all in all here's enough stuff to be understood and done, hmpf i'll see.. all the best harald --- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, David Clarke <ac151@...> wrote: > > > so replying to my request, looks like no > > one here knows an answer to the named issue, > > it never happend before? > > any repair address in berlin? > > Harald - the 'switches' on the panel are actually just sandwiches of plastic > and conductive layers. These sandwiches are right inside the overlay on the > panel. If you want to 'get at' the switch, you'd need to peel it off the > panel. > > That having been said, there's really not too much to 'see' there. If > you're very lucky, it might just be that the button is permanenly stuck > down. If so, you might be able to use something 'sticky' to put it back up. > > It would be important to know if this is the _only_ switch which is > affected, or if others are also affected. If there's more than one switch > which is not behaving properly, then it is less likely the membrane in the > panel itself and more likely a sick part or a bad connection on one of the > plastic connections. (While these connections looked good in the pictures > you provided, it would only take a hair-line crack further down the neck of > the cable to cause problems). > > If the membrane switch is found to be bad, then: > > 1) You could keep your eyes open for a replacement Polaris panel/switch > (they do come up on Ebay every now and then). > 2) you could make connections directly to the board yourself and add > your own switch (either drilling a hole in the panel where the LF switch > location current is - or simply mounting it somewhere else. > > David Clarke >
Message
Re: scotty beam the fender to the electronical graveyard
2006-02-07 by sacateca2001
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