Rhodes Chroma Polaris

hi knob fiddlers,
my old darling(100102) needs some help,
the left down press-knob doesn't work ,-(
(lower function). is there any possibility to remove
it, change it or even bridge it?
maybe someone knows any older posts about that issue,
any quick solution?

regards
harald

Y'know...  Funny you should mention that, because I had that exact
problem.  You may have a bad switch (the membrane), in which case I
think you're pretty much screwed.  But one thing I did, was to take
apart my polaris, remove the plastic ribbon cables (not the
computer-type wire-in-cable cables, but the painted-on jobs that
typically crack), you should have 4.  You probably will also have to
remove the screws on the pc boards in the front panel of the synth,
and all the chrome knobs for the sliders.  Then I bought a Sharpie (r)
silver marker, and carefully repainted the traces on that cable.  I
used Sharpie because they haven't got any real dangerous solvents in
their paint marker.  There is enough aluminum in the sharpie paint to
act as a decent trace repair.  This may be your problem.  If something
goes desperately wrong you can always try acetone and a q-tip to clean
the paint off the ribbon cable, and trim it back using a nice sharp
pair of scissors.  If your membrane switch is out, you might have to
develop a repair of some sort (remembering that membrane switches are
still used).

  ummm...  THat's about all I can think of.

  Let me know if that helps at all.  I'm still a polaris novis, but
I'm really loving mine!

  Christopher
--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "sacateca2001" <harama@v...> wrote:

>
> hi knob fiddlers,
> my old darling(100102) needs some help,
> the left down press-knob doesn't work ,-(
> (lower function). is there any possibility to remove
> it, change it or even bridge it?
> maybe someone knows any older posts about that issue,
> any quick solution?
> 
> regards
> harald
>

aX

Do you Yahoo!?
With a free 1 GB, there's more in store with Yahoo! Mail.

Christopher thanxalot,

this sounds like a solution,
i'll check it out this weekend and will take
a deeper look under ma babes skirt, may the sharpie
wake her up again, I'll tell you the results of my attempt
later..goal is to get the chroma connected again to 
the rhythem Stick, ah release
best regards
harald 


--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "jenna_pher" <jenna_pher@y...>
wrote:
>
> Y'know...  Funny you should mention that, because I had that exact
> problem.  You may have a bad switch (the membrane), in which case I
> think you're pretty much screwed.  But one thing I did, was to take
> apart my polaris, remove the plastic ribbon cables (not the
> computer-type wire-in-cable cables, but the painted-on jobs that
> typically crack), you should have 4.  You probably will also have to
> remove the screws on the pc boards in the front panel of the synth,
> and all the chrome knobs for the sliders.  Then I bought a Sharpie (r)
> silver marker, and carefully repainted the traces on that cable.  I
> used Sharpie because they haven't got any real dangerous solvents in
> their paint marker.  There is enough aluminum in the sharpie paint to
> act as a decent trace repair.  This may be your problem.  If something
> goes desperately wrong you can always try acetone and a q-tip to clean
> the paint off the ribbon cable, and trim it back using a nice sharp
> pair of scissors.  If your membrane switch is out, you might have to
> develop a repair of some sort (remembering that membrane switches are
> still used).
> 
>   ummm...  THat's about all I can think of.
> 
>   Let me know if that helps at all.  I'm still a polaris novis, but
> I'm really loving mine!
> 
>   Christopher
> --- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "sacateca2001" <harama@v...>
wrote:

> >
> > hi knob fiddlers,
> > my old darling(100102) needs some help,
> > the left down press-knob doesn't work ,-(
> > (lower function). is there any possibility to remove
> > it, change it or even bridge it?
> > maybe someone knows any older posts about that issue,
> > any quick solution?
> > 
> > regards
> > harald
> >
>

hi christopher,
it seems like the cable is ok,
but i don't know how it looks like under
the panel..have a look:
http://home.vrweb.de/~harama/polar/polar.htm

so in case the cable is fine, what else can i do
to get this "lower function" butt running?
any suggestions??
harald


--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "jenna_pher" <jenna_pher@y...>
wrote:
>
> Y'know...  Funny you should mention that, because I had that exact
> problem.  You may have a bad switch (the membrane), in which case I
> think you're pretty much screwed.  But one thing I did, was to take
> apart my polaris, remove the plastic ribbon cables (not the
> computer-type wire-in-cable cables, but the painted-on jobs that
> typically crack), you should have 4.  You probably will also have to
> remove the screws on the pc boards in the front panel of the synth,
> and all the chrome knobs for the sliders.  Then I bought a Sharpie (r)
> silver marker, and carefully repainted the traces on that cable.  I
> used Sharpie because they haven't got any real dangerous solvents in
> their paint marker.  There is enough aluminum in the sharpie paint to
> act as a decent trace repair.  This may be your problem.  If something
> goes desperately wrong you can always try acetone and a q-tip to clean
> the paint off the ribbon cable, and trim it back using a nice sharp
> pair of scissors.  If your membrane switch is out, you might have to
> develop a repair of some sort (remembering that membrane switches are
> still used).
> 
>   ummm...  THat's about all I can think of.
> 
>   Let me know if that helps at all.  I'm still a polaris novis, but
> I'm really loving mine!
> 
>   Christopher
> --- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "sacateca2001" <harama@v...>
wrote:

> >
> > hi knob fiddlers,
> > my old darling(100102) needs some help,
> > the left down press-knob doesn't work ,-(
> > (lower function). is there any possibility to remove
> > it, change it or even bridge it?
> > maybe someone knows any older posts about that issue,
> > any quick solution?
> > 
> > regards
> > harald
> >
>

so replying to my request, looks like no
one here knows an answer to the named issue,
it never happend before?
any repair address in berlin?

hopefully
harald



scotty beam the fender to the electronical graveyard


--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "sacateca2001" <harama@...> wrote:

>
> hi christopher,
> it seems like the cable is ok,
> but i don't know how it looks like under
> the panel..have a look:
> http://home.vrweb.de/~harama/polar/polar.htm
> 
> so in case the cable is fine, what else can i do
> to get this "lower function" butt running?
> any suggestions??
> harald
> 
> 
> --- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "jenna_pher" <jenna_pher@y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Y'know...  Funny you should mention that, because I had that exact
> > problem.  You may have a bad switch (the membrane), in which case I
> > think you're pretty much screwed.  But one thing I did, was to take
> > apart my polaris, remove the plastic ribbon cables (not the
> > computer-type wire-in-cable cables, but the painted-on jobs that
> > typically crack), you should have 4.  You probably will also have to
> > remove the screws on the pc boards in the front panel of the synth,
> > and all the chrome knobs for the sliders.  Then I bought a Sharpie (r)
> > silver marker, and carefully repainted the traces on that cable.  I
> > used Sharpie because they haven't got any real dangerous solvents in
> > their paint marker.  There is enough aluminum in the sharpie paint to
> > act as a decent trace repair.  This may be your problem.  If something
> > goes desperately wrong you can always try acetone and a q-tip to clean
> > the paint off the ribbon cable, and trim it back using a nice sharp
> > pair of scissors.  If your membrane switch is out, you might have to
> > develop a repair of some sort (remembering that membrane switches are
> > still used).
> > 
> >   ummm...  THat's about all I can think of.
> > 
> >   Let me know if that helps at all.  I'm still a polaris novis, but
> > I'm really loving mine!
> > 
> >   Christopher
> > --- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "sacateca2001" <harama@v...>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > hi knob fiddlers,
> > > my old darling(100102) needs some help,
> > > the left down press-knob doesn't work ,-(
> > > (lower function). is there any possibility to remove
> > > it, change it or even bridge it?
> > > maybe someone knows any older posts about that issue,
> > > any quick solution?
> > > 
> > > regards
> > > harald
> > >
> >
>

> so replying to my request, looks like no
> one here knows an answer to the named issue,
> it never happend before?
> any repair address in berlin?

Harald - the 'switches' on the panel are actually just sandwiches of plastic 
and conductive layers.  These sandwiches are right inside the overlay on the 
panel.  If you want to 'get at' the switch, you'd need to peel it off the 
panel.

That having been said, there's really not too much to 'see' there.  If 
you're very lucky, it might just be that the button is permanenly stuck 
down.  If so, you might be able to use something 'sticky' to put it back up.

It would be important to know if this is the _only_ switch which is 
affected, or if others are also affected.  If there's more than one switch 
which is not behaving properly, then it is less likely the membrane in the 
panel itself and more likely a sick part or a bad connection on one of the 
plastic connections.  (While these connections looked good in the pictures 
you provided, it would only take a hair-line crack further down the neck of 
the cable to cause problems).

If the membrane switch is found to be bad, then:

1) You could keep your eyes open for a replacement Polaris panel/switch 
(they do come up on Ebay every now and then).
2) you could make connections directly to the circuit board yourself and add 
your own switch (either drilling a hole in the panel where the LF switch 
location current is - or simply mounting it somewhere else.

David Clarke

To elaborate, having replacd many polaris switches:
If you do find it is a problem with the actual membrane switch you 
can replace with a small pushbutton switch.

I have successfully used panel mount switches (very cheap, $1 each 
from www.allelectronics.com).  You will find that there is very 
little clearance behind the switches as a result I was forced to bend 
the leads of the switches and remove the IC sockets from the PCBs 
under switches that I wanted to replace.

Before you attempt this repair, review the service manual and look at 
the switch matrix wiring chart.  

I'm very good at rework, it took me about 1hr to drill holes and bend 
switch leads and 3hrs to solder the 150 or so wires to replace all of 
the switches in one of my chroma polaris keyboards. 

If you just want to to replace one button and locate it where there 
are no clearance issues, it should be a simple fix for you or a local 
technician.

Good luck,
Ben

 
--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, David Clarke <ac151@...> wrote:
>
> > so replying to my request, looks like no
> > one here knows an answer to the named issue,
> > it never happend before?
> > any repair address in berlin?
> 
> Harald - the 'switches' on the panel are actually just sandwiches 
of plastic 
> and conductive layers.  These sandwiches are right inside the 
overlay on the 
> panel.  If you want to 'get at' the switch, you'd need to peel it 
off the 
> panel.
> 
> That having been said, there's really not too much to 'see' there.  
If 
> you're very lucky, it might just be that the button is permanenly 
stuck 
> down.  If so, you might be able to use something 'sticky' to put it 
back up.
> 
> It would be important to know if this is the _only_ switch which is 
> affected, or if others are also affected.  If there's more than one 
switch 
> which is not behaving properly, then it is less likely the membrane 
in the 
> panel itself and more likely a sick part or a bad connection on one 
of the 
> plastic connections.  (While these connections looked good in the 
pictures 
> you provided, it would only take a hair-line crack further down the 
neck of 
> the cable to cause problems).
> 
> If the membrane switch is found to be bad, then:
> 
> 1) You could keep your eyes open for a replacement Polaris 
panel/switch 
> (they do come up on Ebay every now and then).
> 2) you could make connections directly to the circuit board 
yourself and add 
> your own switch (either drilling a hole in the panel where the LF 
switch 

> location current is - or simply mounting it somewhere else.
> 
> David Clarke
>

hi david,
many thanks, looks like i got to go
a bit deeper into the schematics of the cp,
the peeling seems to be a bit tricky,
but all in all here's enough stuff to be understood and done,
hmpf i'll see..
all the best
harald




--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, David Clarke <ac151@...> wrote:
>
> > so replying to my request, looks like no
> > one here knows an answer to the named issue,
> > it never happend before?
> > any repair address in berlin?
> 
> Harald - the 'switches' on the panel are actually just sandwiches of
plastic 
> and conductive layers.  These sandwiches are right inside the
overlay on the 
> panel.  If you want to 'get at' the switch, you'd need to peel it
off the 
> panel.
> 
> That having been said, there's really not too much to 'see' there.  If 
> you're very lucky, it might just be that the button is permanenly stuck 
> down.  If so, you might be able to use something 'sticky' to put it
back up.
> 
> It would be important to know if this is the _only_ switch which is 
> affected, or if others are also affected.  If there's more than one
switch 
> which is not behaving properly, then it is less likely the membrane
in the 
> panel itself and more likely a sick part or a bad connection on one
of the 
> plastic connections.  (While these connections looked good in the
pictures 



> you provided, it would only take a hair-line crack further down the
neck of 
> the cable to cause problems).
> 
> If the membrane switch is found to be bad, then:
> 
> 1) You could keep your eyes open for a replacement Polaris panel/switch 
> (they do come up on Ebay every now and then).
> 2) you could make connections directly to the  board yourself and add 
> your own switch (either drilling a hole in the panel where the LF
switch 

> location current is - or simply mounting it somewhere else.
> 
> David Clarke
>

cheers ben,
as said to david i got to elaborate all this stuff and 
i'm not that good at rework, just a better novice;
you said: 
"I was forced to bend the leads of the switches and remove the IC
sockets from the PCBs under switches that I wanted to replace."

hu, that sounds a bit difficult to me, i think you mean
the left or right control panel where this happens?
hm if you drill holes, do you drill them in the membrane..?
but thanks anyway
harald


--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "bkuris" <Bkuris@...> wrote:

>
> To elaborate, having replacd many polaris switches:
> If you do find it is a problem with the actual membrane switch you 
> can replace with a small pushbutton switch.
> 
> I have successfully used panel mount switches (very cheap, $1 each 
> from www.allelectronics.com).  You will find that there is very 
> little clearance behind the switches as a result I was forced to bend 
> the  of the switches and remove the IC sockets from the PCBs 
> under switches that I wanted to replace.
> 
> Before you attempt this repair, review the service manual and look at 
> the switch matrix wiring chart.  
> 
> I'm very good at rework, it took me about 1hr to drill holes and bend 
> switch leads and 3hrs to solder the 150 or so wires to replace all of 
> the switches in one of my chroma polaris keyboards. 
> 
> If you just want to to replace one button and locate it where there 
> are no clearance issues, it should be a simple fix for you or a local 
> technician.
> 
> Good luck,
> Ben