Rhodes Chroma Polaris

I wanted to report that I sucessfully replaced the membrane buttons 
on one of my CPs with panel mounted push buttons.  I expect that 
keyboard (which also has this replaced DAC and new s/h caps) to run 
until the EPROMS fail.

The whole proceedure took at least 14hrs and should be done only as a 
least resort for cases of damaged flex wires, or when you discover 
that the actual switch membrane has worn out.  Sooner or later the 
control panels will fail on most CPs-- here is how you fix them:

1) Remove control panel PCBs (Chroma Polaris must be open see service 
manual).  Cut off or tape down the flex ribbon.

2) Drill holes for every button.  I recommend using the upper right 
corner to preserve as much text as possible.  I drilled from the 
outside in, several of the labels (eg. "A") ripped free, but I glued 
them back down.  Use a large bit to clean the hole on the backside to 
provide a flush or bevelled edge for the switches.

2) Switches.  You will need around 60 and the best deal I found was 
at www.all-electronics.com for surplus sub-miniature SPDTs.  Solder 
leads will be very helpful (there are about 140 wires that need to be 
soldered so anything helps!).  I bend the leads prior to mounting so 
have as much clearance as possible.

3a) There was still a clearance problem with many buttons hitting a 
half dozen or so ICs on the control panel.  I solved this by removing 
the offending ICs, desoldering the sockets (requires decent soldering 
skills), and then soldering them back down.  I was able to just bend 
the PCB to make up the remaining difference.

3b) (optional) desolder old flex connectors

4) Put the PCBs away for a while.  Print out the last few pages of 
the service manual with the button wiring chart.  I color highlighted 
to save time.  wwww.rhodeschroma.com is hosting the service manual.

5) I used 2 different colors of thin solid-core wire (eg. wire wrap 
wire).  One for strobes, one for switch signals.  Wire them all up, 
it will take a very long time, be careful with how you run the wires, 
try to bend into right angles and run them against the panel to keep 
things neat.
6) Don't forget to add a wires that will eventually get solder to the 
PCBs and *label them*.  If you look at where they will be going, the 
switches you should use as the source of these wires will be 
obvious.  Remember that STB0-STB2 go to a different place then the SW 
lines.

7) install PCBS and solder the STB and SW lines.  Test it all out-- 
good luck.  I'm a skilled tech and I had 1 bad solder joint out of 
the nearly 200 solder joints but its easy to use a multimeter to 
troubleshoot as long as you don't scramble up the connection diagram 
(in which case the LEDs will provide some clue). 

I will post a picture eventually...
Due to the time this proceedure takes, I don't think it is feasible 
to pay someone to do it for you as it would cost at least $400 which 
is close to the price of a used Polaris.  I would charge $500 (more 
if it needs to be done in less then a month).  Another option is to 
have PCBs manufactured, but that also means machining a new panel so 
that switches line up.  Given the size of the panel and expected 
volume, it would probably also end up in the $500 range.  A final 
option is to use MIDI which has performance disadvantages.

-Ben

Oh dear,

I hope everyone realizes that the vast majority of Polaris membrane switch
panels can be repaired. Replacing a membrane panel with an array of
pushbutton switches is truly a last resort technique.


take care,
McLilith

I've done my share of repairing/patching/cutting back the ribbon 
interconnect, but is there any way to repair a switch element that 
has failed within the membrane?  Losing a few important switches is 
what led me to install the pushbuttons.

-Ben

--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, spamtemp@c... wrote:
> Oh dear,
> 
> I hope everyone realizes that the vast majority of Polaris membrane 
switch
> panels can be repaired.

hey,

im a touring musician and i like the sound of the chroma polaris.  i 
recently purchased one off ebay only to find out that there seems to 
be reliabiliy issues with the buttons.  i was wondering if you 
thought it was a bad idea to take a polaris on tour, and if so what 
other synth you would recommend.  thanks.

-justin
--- In chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com, "bkuris" <benjamin.kuris@h...> 
wrote:
> 
> I wanted to report that I sucessfully replaced the membrane 
buttons 
> on one of my CPs with panel mounted push buttons.  I expect that 
> keyboard (which also has this replaced DAC and new s/h caps) to 
run 
> until the EPROMS fail.
> 
> The whole proceedure took at least 14hrs and should be done only 
as a 
> least resort for cases of damaged flex wires, or when you discover 
> that the actual switch membrane has worn out.  Sooner or later the 
> control panels will fail on most CPs-- here is how you fix them:
> 
> 1) Remove control panel PCBs (Chroma Polaris must be open see 
service 
> manual).  Cut off or tape down the flex ribbon.
> 
> 2) Drill holes for every button.  I recommend using the upper 
right 
> corner to preserve as much text as possible.  I drilled from the 
> outside in, several of the labels (eg. "A") ripped free, but I 
glued 
> them back down.  Use a large bit to clean the hole on the backside 
to 
> provide a flush or bevelled edge for the switches.
> 
> 2) Switches.  You will need around 60 and the best deal I found 
was 
> at www.all-electronics.com for surplus sub-miniature SPDTs.  
Solder 
> leads will be very helpful (there are about 140 wires that need to 
be 
> soldered so anything helps!).  I bend the leads prior to mounting 
so 
> have as much clearance as possible.
> 
> 3a) There was still a clearance problem with many buttons hitting 
a 
> half dozen or so ICs on the control panel.  I solved this by 
removing 
> the offending ICs, desoldering the sockets (requires decent 
soldering 
> skills), and then soldering them back down.  I was able to just 
bend 
> the PCB to make up the remaining difference.
> 
> 3b) (optional) desolder old flex connectors
> 
> 4) Put the PCBs away for a while.  Print out the last few pages of 
> the service manual with the button wiring chart.  I color 
highlighted 
> to save time.  wwww.rhodeschroma.com is hosting the service manual.
> 
> 5) I used 2 different colors of thin solid-core wire (eg. wire 
wrap 
> wire).  One for strobes, one for switch signals.  Wire them all 
up, 
> it will take a very long time, be careful with how you run the 
wires, 
> try to bend into right angles and run them against the panel to 
keep 
> things neat.
> 6) Don't forget to add a wires that will eventually get solder to 
the 
> PCBs and *label them*.  If you look at where they will be going, 
the 
> switches you should use as the source of these wires will be 
> obvious.  Remember that STB0-STB2 go to a different place then the 
SW 
> lines.
> 
> 7) install PCBS and solder the STB and SW lines.  Test it all out--
 
> good luck.  I'm a skilled tech and I had 1 bad solder joint out of 
> the nearly 200 solder joints but its easy to use a multimeter to 
> troubleshoot as long as you don't scramble up the connection 
diagram 
> (in which case the LEDs will provide some clue). 
> 
> I will post a picture eventually...
> Due to the time this proceedure takes, I don't think it is 
feasible 
> to pay someone to do it for you as it would cost at least $400 
which 
> is close to the price of a used Polaris.  I would charge $500 
(more 
> if it needs to be done in less then a month).  Another option is 
to 
> have PCBs manufactured, but that also means machining a new panel 
so 

> that switches line up.  Given the size of the panel and expected 
> volume, it would probably also end up in the $500 range.  A final 
> option is to use MIDI which has performance disadvantages.
> 
> -Ben