>Thanks Tom, I did a little research this morning and read that coated >art paper settings have smaller gamut's than the photo papers >(luster,glossy), there for are easier to profile. Maybe that is why >the test targets I printed on epson luster look better with the art >paper settings. Duno. It's more a question of the kinds of results you can get, after profiling, more than how easy the paper is to profile or not. When you print the target on any given paper, with a specific media setting, you're seeing the absolute limits of what can be printed on that printer/ink/ paper/media setting combination. Your saturated colors can't be any more saturated; your black can't be any blacker. The most that any profile can do is give you the extremes, as they're printed in the target, and make everything else in between look right. (Nothing else is physically possible). If you compare target prints on different papers from the same printer, you'll see that some papers have a wider gamut than others. With pigmented inks, glossy/luster papers will always give you a black with a much lower measured L value than what you can get on any matte/fine art paper, coated or not. So if your goal is to get the deepest absolute blacks, you will never be able to achieve that with matte papers vs. glossy, no matter what any profile does. Also, speaking of resolution: I wouldn't bother running any of these tests at 720 dpi. Just do them at the resolution you're going to be making real prints at and leave it at that. (So: 1440 or 2880). >So when I start to build a profile, I have to print a chart of every >paper setting every time? That's a little extreme. And even if you wanted to be extreme, I would suggest the following: pick 4, and print them in corners on the same sheet, then just eyeball them quickly and make a judgement. On letter size paper, it's pretty quick to just run the same sheet back through the printer and overprint. (The only printers this WON'T work on are the gloss-optimized Epsons, like my R800, since with gloss optimizer on, the entire sheet, including blank white area, gets covered and you can't overprint onto it). >it would be nice for us 24"roll paper users >to be able to print the tests in a strait line instead of 4 corners. That wouldn't help, because you have to do the prints SEPARATELY, with the media setting changed in the driver. You can't do them all in one shot, so printing them in a straight line doesn't work. You need to print; go back into the driver; change the media setting; print again. With roll paper, you -could- roll the paper back up and print again (although I'm not sure how easy that is; on my 4800, everything having to do with handling and printing roll paper is sheer annoyance). I'd suggest cutting a chunk off the roll, and then cut -that- into two letter sized sheets, if you don't have any cut sheets of the same media. > >Yes, it is better than atkinsons. Now -that- is great to hear...:-) >And a shmo like me made it the same >day I got the stuff. You can probably do it quicker and more efficiently the next time around, too, now that you've been through the process once. -- David Miller Senior Software Developer, Digital Color Solutions ColorVision
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Re: [colorvision_group] Re: 9 hours later
2006-03-11 by David Miller
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