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Embarrassing newbie question

Embarrassing newbie question

2007-06-21 by Stilson Snow

A couple of months ago I got Spyder2Express to profile my monitor; I
don't print at home.  I thought I was following directions when the
instructions said to have set the monitor at full brightness and
contrast.  The resulting prints (from a printer I have a profile for)
were very dark compared to the monitor.

Obviously there seems to be a need for brightness and contrast
adjustment but I don't know where or when to make it.  If I set
brightness and contrast to the way I like it, isn't that completely
subjective which defeats the purpose of profiling?  There seems to be
no mechanism in Spyder to control the monitor or to tell me what
brightness and contrast to set.

I've gone back to eyeballing with charts, etc. but though the results
are much better than with my Spyder, I still have the feeling that I
am missing some extremely basic information and that my prints are
still suffering.

I've asked this question in several photography color management
forums, admitting to complete ignorance and pleading for an answer in
the most basic language, preferably in words of two syllables or less,
and have only received replies with cryptic mathematical notations
regarding candles and measurements that my monitor does not provide;
or that ignore my question completely, saying that Spyder works great
for them.

So... could someone enlighten me about at what stage of profiling I
should alter monitor brightness and contrast to match my print and how
that is achieved to get an objective rather than subjective profile?

Thank you very much.

RE: [colorvision_group] Embarrassing newbie question

2007-06-21 by Eesh Dewan

Hi,

 

Can you tell me if you are using a LCD monitor or CRT monitor. In case of
LCD monitor, reset it to fatory default and then do not touch the brightness
and contrast controls. Let the Spyder2express do its thing.

 

If you are using a CRT monitor, follow the step below.

 

1.	Choose CRT as the type of monitor
2.	Choose the brightness and contrast control boxes.
3.	Adjust brightness and contrast as mentioned in previous mail

 

Regards,

 

Eesh Dewan
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Stilson Snow [mailto:stilson@...] 
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 12:01 PM
To: 'Bhushan Fotografiks'
Subject: RE: [colorvision_group] Embarrassing newbie question

 

Eesh - Thank you for your reply; I appreciate it.  To further display my
ignorance, I don't know where in the Spyder2Pro Express calibration process
I should invoke your instructions.  In my tries at calibration, I don't
remember seeing a screen with either 4 black patches or 4 white patches.  If
there is a pre-calibration thing I could do and it requires some additional
software, please let me know.  If it matters, I am running Nvidia 6100
onboard video with a Viewsonic Optiquest 20wb monitor.

 

In fact I just got the new monitor and tried to profile it after my initial
message.  Unfortunately I got a weird error:  "Error 122 (CMSS Support
cpp189)  The data area passed to a system call is too small."   I have no
idea what that means, except that my long quest for a calibrated monitor is
still ongoing and seemingly no nearer to completion.

 

Thanks, again,

Stilson

Re: Embarrassing newbie question

2007-06-21 by Rollin

When describing your problems with prints not matching your monitor, 
you do not mention what software you are using to manipulate your 
images and whether or not you are "soft proofing" the images using it 
against the printer profile.  I have two printers with totally 
different characteristics and have to modify the images for each one 
to get a good print.  I use Photoshop CS3 and I use the soft proof 
feature to see how the print will look on the specific printer and 
then make adjustments to brigthness, contrast, color balance, etc. to 
get the best image possible.

Since someone else is doing the printing, I am assuming they are not 
double color managing the image which, classically, produces darker, 
color shifted images.  This would occur with software like Photoshop 
where you let PS and the printer both apply color management to the 
image - one or the other, but not both.

In short, there are multiple points in the image to print process 
where things can go wrong so it would help if you could describe the 
full process you are using.

Thanks,
Rollin

Re: [colorvision_group] Embarrassing newbie question

2007-06-21 by CDTobie@aol.com


In a message dated 6/20/07 9:15:47 PM, hutchinsgroup@... writes:


A couple of months ago I got Spyder2Express to profile my monitor; I
don't print at home. I thought I was following directions when the
instructions said to have set the monitor at full brightness and
contrast. The resulting prints (from a printer I have a profile for)
were very dark compared to the monitor.


Sounds like you may be using a fairly bright LCD monitor, gloss or luster papers, and fairly dim ambient/viewing conditions...

Obviously there seems to be a need for brightness and contrast
adjustment but I don't know where or when to make it. If I set
brightness and contrast to the way I like it, isn't that completely
subjective which defeats the purpose of profiling? There seems to be
no mechanism in Spyder to control the monitor or to tell me what
brightness and contrast to set.


There is no mechanism for adjusting these settings via the Spyder2express software (and few controls for it in modern LCD monitors, actually). Spyder2 hardware is certainly capable of it, as the ambient light features in Spyder2PRO point out. Express users have to make the decisions about how bright to run their monitors in advance of calibration, and just leave it at that level when running the software. True Hardware-based Contrast is a nonexistant control on most LCDs, as is a true Brightness control; the control marked Brightness is actually Backlight, and that can be preset to the appropriate level for your viewing conditions in advance. Yes, that seems arbitrary, but if you are looking to establish a studio calibration standard, with defined white and black luminance values, that would require Spyder2PRO, not Spyder2express.

Beyond that we could discuss custom print profiling, using softproofing to view your print results, and tuning the softproof side of your custom print profiles. All those items are advanced elements of screen to print matching, but all of them require PrintFIX PRO, not just a monitor calibration tool, so are not relevent here.

The short answer is to dim your backlight to a level that is a reasonable match for your prints under your ambient/viewing light.

C. David Tobie
Product Technology Manager
ColorVision Business Unit
Datacolor Inc.
CDTobie@colorvision.com
www.colorvision.com



**************************************
See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

Re: [colorvision_group] Re: Embarrassing newbie question

2007-06-21 by tom

Let PS do the conversion for u. Use the "Convert to Profile" function in the Edit menu and convert to the ICC profile for your particular printer/paper combo if u need your print to most accurately resemble your screen image. First, flatten layers then save a copy to preserve your orig. file - esp. important if u need to print to different printers/papers.

I find Convert to Profile far more accurate than if u try to tweak the colors yourself (unless u prefer to add creative tonal effects to your prints). Why all color management/soft proof settings aren't conveniently articulated in one window is beyond me. PS instructions r vague on this issue.

Tom

----- Original Message ----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Rollin
To: colorvision_group@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 7:13:36 AM
Subject: [colorvision_group] Re: Embarrassing newbie question

When describing your problems with prints not matching your monitor,
you do not mention what software you are using to manipulate your
images and whether or not you are "soft proofing" the images using it
against the printer profile. I have two printers with totally
different characteristics and have to modify the images for each one
to get a good print. I use Photoshop CS3 and I use the soft proof
feature to see how the print will look on the specific printer and
then make adjustments to brigthness, contrast, color balance, etc. to
get the best image possible.

Since someone else is doing the printing, I am assuming they are not
double color managing the image which, classically, produces darker,
color shifted images. This would occur with software like Photoshop
where you let PS and the printer both apply color management to the
image - one or the other, but not both.

In short, there are multiple points in the image to print process
where things can go wrong so it would help if you could describe the
full process you are using.

Thanks,
Rollin



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