Emax

> Caution!
>         You'll probably be better taking it to a repair shop. If you don't
have technical training and/or
> know exactly what you are working on you could seriously render the Emax
useless.

I concur.  These things can bite you, and you can screw them up totally if
you're not careful.

The sticky key problem is very likely to be dirty connections, fixable with
a good hose down with switch cleaner or IPA.  Again, if you're not happy,
don't get into the thing.  If you are prepared to try working on your Emax,
maybe you should find a friendly neighbourhood electronics geek to help you.
FWIW, if there's any members of the group in the UK who can get up to
Glasgow, I'll give them a hand if they need...

Displays are probably just plain vanilla Hitachi-type LCD's, and pretty easy
to get hold of.  $20-$30 equates to around \ufffd15-\ufffd20 over here, which sounds
about right to me.  Some of them have LED instead of cold-cathode
backlights, which might need a different supply voltage.  Check the spec
carefully.  If they do, they're likely to need 5v instead of 12v.  I'm
<sure> that's going to be tricky to arrange...

Martinsky's problem sounds like a dead op-amp in the output circuit.  I've
no idea what they are likely to be, possibly TL084 or NE5534?  Follow the
circuit board trace back from the relevant output pin.  If it's just the
left channel on the main output and not on the submix busses, then the
problem chip is the first one you'll hit following the trace back in.  Use a
bit of common sense and it should become clear - I reverse-engineered most
of the analogue section of my Ensoniq Mirage when it had problems, but it
took days...

HTH
  Gordon.