Emax

Thanks for the suggestions, Skip.  Help is much appreciated.

>  continuity check on the wires to the connector to the main board. 

Here my technical ignorance rears its head.  I've no idea what "continuity
check on the wires . . . " means.

>  the users manual there is a procedure to re-callibrate the Pitch 
>  Wheel follow it closely. Does your pitch change when the Emax II >  is
slave to another Keyboard (Midi)? Try it and see. 

Tried the re-calibration numerous times to no avail.  Haven't tried using
midi, but the pitch works fine when I re-assign it to the right (modulation)
wheel. Small comfort, though, because it doesn't spring back to the middle
to keep in tune.


Ashley








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Caution!
        You'll probably be better taking it to a repair shop. If you don't have technical training and/or know exactly what you are working on you could seriously render the Emax useless. 

    Anyway continuity means checking the mechanical condition of the metal wire inside of  the plastic insulation and its ability to conduct electricity. This will require an OHM meter to check each of the three wires one at a time. Simply put it is like hooking the wire you are testing to a light bulb and the other end to positive side of a battery If the negative side of the battery is hooked up to the case of the light bulb and your test wire is good the bulb will light. If the bulb doesn't light and you know the battery is not dead, the wire on the negative side is good, and the light bulb is not burned out odds the wire you are testing is broken under the insulation. Typically this does not normally happen unless the wires are pinched or stressed. More than likely the POTentiometer in the pitch wheel is open internally and must be replaced. 

Good luck,
Skip

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: ashley spradlin 
  To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 10:51 AM
  Subject: [emax] Re:Re:Troubles


  Thanks for the suggestions, Skip.  Help is much appreciated.

  >  continuity check on the wires to the connector to the main board. 

  Here my technical ignorance rears its head.  I've no idea what "continuity
  check on the wires . . . " means.

  >  the users manual there is a procedure to re-callibrate the Pitch 
  >  Wheel follow it closely. Does your pitch change when the Emax II >  is
  slave to another Keyboard (Midi)? Try it and see. 

  Tried the re-calibration numerous times to no avail.  Haven't tried using
  midi, but the pitch works fine when I re-assign it to the right (modulation)
  wheel. Small comfort, though, because it doesn't spring back to the middle
  to keep in tune.


  Ashley








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  http://messenger.excite.com



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Caution!
>         You'll probably be better taking it to a repair shop. If you don't
have technical training and/or
> know exactly what you are working on you could seriously render the Emax
useless.

I concur.  These things can bite you, and you can screw them up totally if
you're not careful.

The sticky key problem is very likely to be dirty connections, fixable with
a good hose down with switch cleaner or IPA.  Again, if you're not happy,
don't get into the thing.  If you are prepared to try working on your Emax,
maybe you should find a friendly neighbourhood electronics geek to help you.
FWIW, if there's any members of the group in the UK who can get up to
Glasgow, I'll give them a hand if they need...

Displays are probably just plain vanilla Hitachi-type LCD's, and pretty easy
to get hold of.  $20-$30 equates to around \ufffd15-\ufffd20 over here, which sounds
about right to me.  Some of them have LED instead of cold-cathode
backlights, which might need a different supply voltage.  Check the spec
carefully.  If they do, they're likely to need 5v instead of 12v.  I'm
<sure> that's going to be tricky to arrange...

Martinsky's problem sounds like a dead op-amp in the output circuit.  I've
no idea what they are likely to be, possibly TL084 or NE5534?  Follow the
circuit board trace back from the relevant output pin.  If it's just the
left channel on the main output and not on the submix busses, then the
problem chip is the first one you'll hit following the trace back in.  Use a
bit of common sense and it should become clear - I reverse-engineered most
of the analogue section of my Ensoniq Mirage when it had problems, but it
took days...

HTH
  Gordon.