Emax

Hello All,
Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just posted
pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
I hope this helps!

On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@gmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin A I
> thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't hook it
> up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get power,
> just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is why
> I'm in this predicament as of now.
>
> Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I need
> to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED screen? Or
> do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax because
> it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it is
> worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector and
> have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
>
>
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@...> wrote:
> >
> > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't solder
> the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by switching
> the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you soldered the
> led + and jason is right :/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused
> on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and
> +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and
> bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > >
> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is
> a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact
> part I used.
> > > >
> > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > >
> > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> 36.0t
> > > >
> > > >
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > >
> > > > $11.35 US
> > > >
> > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> soldered
> > > > them into new display.
> > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > > >
> > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> > > > added potentiometer.
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>  
>


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