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LCD replacement from RS

LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-15 by dutchbeats

This company has changed their website to accommodate foreign buyers and
in the process it seems it has discontinued the
PC1602AR-H
<http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/powertip/pc1602ar-h/alphanumeric-l\
cd-display-pc1602ar-h-16x2/2143244.aspx>   (stock# 214-3244) and
replaced it with                                          PC1602ARS-H
<http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/powertip/pc1602ars-h/alphanumeric-\
lcddisplay-pc1602ars-h-16x2/2143301.aspx>   (stock# 214-3301). Are these
the same thing?

Also, when i do the replacement and solder on the required potentiometer
to the display, I just have to remove the inverter box on the main board
and that's it? This will cancel the the high frequency hum also?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [emax] LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-15 by jammie

only if its an led display warning the led display is 7mm thicker than stock item which means having to cut the front cover for the display to set through it then sits level with the front panel i glued a glass lcd cover plate to the front of the panel to protect the lcd

but if its an el foil backlight version then the inverter needs to stay

the pin 3 connection from the pcb needs to be cut and the pot needs to go from theov and the 5v pin and the wiper need to go to pin 3 max voltage is 4.3 volts this is full contrast

the old lcd used negitive feedback for angle view as the new 1,s use positive voltage 

ted has also replaced a lcd screen i think he used the el foil version
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: dutchbeats 
  To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 6:18 PM
  Subject: [emax] LCD replacement from RS


    
  This company has changed their website to accommodate foreign buyers and
  in the process it seems it has discontinued the
  PC1602AR-H
  <http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/powertip/pc1602ar-h/alphanumeric-l\
  cd-display-pc1602ar-h-16x2/2143244.aspx> (stock# 214-3244) and
  replaced it with PC1602ARS-H
  <http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/powertip/pc1602ars-h/alphanumeric-\
  lcddisplay-pc1602ars-h-16x2/2143301.aspx> (stock# 214-3301). Are these
  the same thing?

  Also, when i do the replacement and solder on the required potentiometer
  to the display, I just have to remove the inverter box on the main board
  and that's it? This will cancel the the high frequency hum also?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


------------------------------------------------------------------------------



  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3507 - Release Date: 03/14/11 19:34:00


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-15 by Jason Mc

I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:

Mouser Part #: 696-S01602DSF/E
Manufacturer Part #: LCM-S01602DSF/E
Manufacturer: Lumex
Description: LCD Character Display Modules InfoVue Std 16x2 STN, Transf w/bklght

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/LCM-S01602DSF-E/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBlSoZEj2dY0WBbxuN2hqA4c%3d

$12.80 US

1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
them into new display.
2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
4) Jumpered resistor in line on new display to get +5v for LED Backlight

Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
added potentiometer.

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-15 by dutchbeats

i guess i'll be going with this one instead now. that and i'm saving myself $60 lol. jason can you explain #4 to us electronix newbs? thanks all!




--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> 
> Mouser Part #: 696-S01602DSF/E
> Manufacturer Part #: LCM-S01602DSF/E
> Manufacturer: Lumex
> Description: LCD Character Display Modules InfoVue Std 16x2 STN, Transf w/bklght
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/LCM-S01602DSF-E/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBlSoZEj2dY0WBbxuN2hqA4c%3d
> 
> $12.80 US
> 
> 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
> them into new display.
> 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> 4) Jumpered resistor in line on new display to get +5v for LED Backlight
> 
> Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> added potentiometer.
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-16 by Jason Mc

Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.

I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:

Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
Manufacturer: 	Newhaven Display
Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d

$11.35 US

1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
them into new display.
2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)

Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
added potentiometer.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-16 by jammie

on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jason Mc 
  To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
  Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS


    
  Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.

  I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:

  Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
  Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
  Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
  Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t

  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d

  $11.35 US

  1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
  them into new display.
  2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
  3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
  4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
  location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
  5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)

  Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
  added potentiometer.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


------------------------------------------------------------------------------



  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-16 by dutchbeats

many thanks! 



--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Jason Mc 
>   To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>   Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> 
> 
>     
>   Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> 
>   I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> 
>   Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>   Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>   Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>   Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> 
>   http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> 
>   $11.35 US
> 
>   1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
>   them into new display.
>   2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>   3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
>   4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>   location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>   5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> 
>   Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
>   added potentiometer.
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-25 by mlivingston8

I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display.  I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original.  Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Jason Mc 
>   To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>   Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> 
> 
>     
>   Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> 
>   I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> 
>   Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>   Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>   Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>   Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> 
>   http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> 
>   $11.35 US
> 
>   1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
>   them into new display.
>   2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>   3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
>   4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>   location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>   5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> 
>   Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
>   added potentiometer.
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-26 by mlivingston8

Great... my emax doesn't work anymore after trying this replacement screen.  It will turn on, the screen turns on but it doesn't display characters and the function buttons are unresponsive.  WTF!!

Everything seems to be connected correctly so I don't know what the problem is.  I'm going to part it out I guess.  FUCK!!!!!!!

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display.  I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original.  Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
> 
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> >
> > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
> >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   From: Jason Mc 
> >   To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
> >   Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> >   Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > 
> > 
> >     
> >   Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> > 
> >   I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > 
> >   Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> >   Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> >   Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> >   Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> > 
> >   http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > 
> >   $11.35 US
> > 
> >   1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
> >   them into new display.
> >   2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> >   3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> >   4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> >   location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> >   5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > 
> >   Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> >   added potentiometer.
> > 
> >   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   No virus found in this incoming message.
> >   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> >   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-26 by jammie

fit a led display as it will blow if you connected it to the ac supply

also as i said you need to disconent pin 3 by cutting the trac and connecting a pot between vcc and ground and the wiper to pin 3 as they use a positive angle where as the old used negitiv voltage for the angle 

you must read the pdf of the manufacturers data which explains this 

if you live in the uk you can send it to me and i will fix it for you 
if you live in the state ted will be happy to fix it for you as he has replaced the screen also and did it how i explained as he also had a none showing screen
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mlivingston8 
  To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 7:51 PM
  Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS


    
  Great... my emax doesn't work anymore after trying this replacement screen. It will turn on, the screen turns on but it doesn't display characters and the function buttons are unresponsive. WTF!!

  Everything seems to be connected correctly so I don't know what the problem is. I'm going to part it out I guess. FUCK!!!!!!!

  --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
  >
  > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
  > 
  > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
  > >
  > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
  > > ----- Original Message ----- 
  > > From: Jason Mc 
  > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
  > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
  > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
  > > 
  > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
  > > 
  > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
  > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
  > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
  > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
  > > 
  > > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
  > > 
  > > $11.35 US
  > > 
  > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
  > > them into new display.
  > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
  > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
  > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
  > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
  > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
  > > 
  > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
  > > added potentiometer.
  > > 
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > ----------------------------------------------------------
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
  > > 
  > > 
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  >



  


------------------------------------------------------------------------------



  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 03/26/11 07:34:00


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-26 by mlivingston8

It's just that for a novice like me, though good at soldering, I have to rely on the info that was posted here which is a little disjointed.  There's no other info online elsewhere on this procedure and I'm not a tech to figure the rest out.

I'd be willing to pay someone to fix it, I just hope nothing else was burned up in the process because now the front panel buttons are not responsive.  LEDs light up when turned on but nothing happens when I press a function button.  Overall, I'm really a bit frustrated so my apologies if I come off a little crass.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@...> wrote:
>
> fit a led display as it will blow if you connected it to the ac supply
> 
> also as i said you need to disconent pin 3 by cutting the trac and connecting a pot between vcc and ground and the wiper to pin 3 as they use a positive angle whetach {
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Show quoted textHide quoted text
>   > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
>   > 
>   > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>   > >
>   > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
>   > > ----- Original Message ----- 
>   > > From: Jason Mc 
>   > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
>   > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>   > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
>   > > 
>   > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
>   > > 
>   > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>   > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>   > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>   > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
>   > > 
>   > > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
>   > > 
>   > > $11.35 US
>   > > 
>   > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
>   > > them into new display.
>   > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>   > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
>   > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>   > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>   > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
>   > > 
>   > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
>   > > added potentiometer.
>   > > 
>   > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > ----------------------------------------------------------
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > No virus found in this incoming message.
>   > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>   > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
>   > > 
>   > > 
>   > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > >
>   >
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 03/26/11 07:34:00
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-26 by mlivingston8

I'm located in the states, Atlanta GA, if anyone is willing to fix my LED board.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> It's just that for a novice like me, though good at soldering, I have to rely on the info that was posted here which is a little disjointed.  There's no other info online elsewhere on this procedure and I'm not a tech to figure the rest out.
> 
> I'd be willing to pay someone to fix it, I just hope nothing else was burned up in the process because now the front panel buttons are not responsive.  LEDs light up when turned on but nothing happens when I press a function button.  Overall, I'm really a bit frustrated so my apologies if I come off a little crass.
> 
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> >
> > fit a led display as it will blow if you connected it to the ac supply
> > 
> > also as i said you need to disconent pin 3 by cutting the trac and connecting a pot between vcc and ground and the wiper to pin 3 as they use a positive angle whetach {
>     clear: both;
>     display: table;
>     font-family: Arial;
>     font-size: 12px;
>     padding: 10px 0;
>     width: 400px;
>   }
> 
>   .attach div a {
>     text-decoration: none;
>   }
> 
>   .attach img {
>     border: none;
>     padding-right: 5px;
>   }
> 
>   .attach label {
>     display: block;
>     margin-bottom: 5px;
>   }
> 
>   .attach label a {
>     text-decoration: none;
>   }
>   
>   blockquote {
>     margin: 0 0 0 4px;
>   }
> 
>   .bold {
>     font-family: Arial;
>     font-size: 13px;
>     font-weight: 700;
>   }
> 
>   .bold a {
>     text-decoration: none;
>   }
> 
>   dd.last p a {
>     font-family: Verdana;
>     font-weight: 700;
>   }
> 
>   dd.last p span {
>     margin-right: 10px;
>     font-family: Verdana;
>     font-weight: 700;
>   }
> 
>   dd.last p span.yshortcuts {
>     margin-right: 0;
>   }
> 
>   div.attach-table div div a {
>     text-decoration: none;
>   }
> 
>   div.attach-table {
>     width: 400px;
>   }
> 
>   div.file-title a, div.file-title a:active, div.file-title a:hover, di>
> >   > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
> >   > 
> >   > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> >   > >
> >   > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
> >   > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   > > From: Jason Mc 
> >   > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
> >   > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> >   > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> >   > > 
> >   > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> >   > > 
> >   > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> >   > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> >   > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> >   > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> >   > > 
> >   > > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> >   > > 
> >   > > $11.35 US
> >   > > 
> >   > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
> >   > > them into new display.
> >   > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> >   > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> >   > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> >   > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> >   > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> >   > > 
> >   > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> >   > > added potentiometer.
> >   > > 
> >   > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> >   > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> >   > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> >   > > 
> >   > > 
> >   > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >   > >
> >   >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   No virus found in this incoming message.
> >   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> >   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 03/26/11 07:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-26 by Ted Summers

If the Emax can't communicate properly with the display it will hang.

I replaced mine with direct Replacement EL backlght. So I didn't have to modify the power circuit.
Even then, I had to add a pot to be able to see the screen, as Jammie indicated.
Every mfr might be different for the pot value.
Mine required 20K, but some require 5k or 10k.

As Jammie said, the mfr spec (usually available in a pdf) must always be consulted prior to hookup.
I don't know what the end effect is of hooking an LED to the EL power circuit. 


You can send me the display panel and logic boards and I can take a look at it.

My address is:

Ted Summers
5206 F Street
Springfield, OR 97478

Be advised I will be unavailable during most of April, so send it quick, or wait til May.

Regards,
Ted


On Mar 26, 2011, at 3:28 PM, mlivingston8 wrote:

I'm located in the states, Atlanta GA, if anyone is willing to fix my LED board.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
>
> It's just that for a novice like me, though good at soldering, I have to rely on the info that was posted here which is a little disjointed. There's no other info online elsewhere on this procedure and I'm not a tech to figure the rest out.
> 
> I'd be willing to pay someone to fix it, I just hope nothing else was burned up in the process because now the front panel buttons are not responsive. LEDs light up when turned on but nothing happens when I press a function button. Overall, I'm really a bit frustrated so my apologies if I come off a little crass.
> 
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> >
> > fit a led display as it will blow if you connected it to the ac supply
> > 
> > also as i said you need to disconent pin 3 by cutting the trac and connecting a pot between vcc and ground and the wiper to pin 3 as they use a positive angle whetach {
> clear: both;
> display: table;
> font-family: Arial;
> font-size: 12px;
> padding: 10px 0;
> width: 400px;
> }
> 
> .attach div a {
> text-decoration: none;
> }
> 
> .attach img {
> border: none;
> padding-right: 5px;
> }
> 
> .attach label {
> display: block;
> margin-bottom: 5px;
> }
> 
> .attach label a {
> text-decoration: none;
> }
> 
> blockquote {
> margin: 0 0 0 4px;
> }
> 
> .bold {
> font-family: Arial;
> font-size: 13px;
> font-weight: 700;
> }
> 
> .bold a {
> text-decoration: none;
> }
> 
> dd.last p a {
> font-family: Verdana;
> font-weight: 700;
> }
> 
> dd.last p span {
> margin-right: 10px;
> font-family: Verdana;
> font-weight: 700;
> }
> 
> dd.last p span.yshortcuts {
> margin-right: 0;
> }
> 
> div.attach-table div div a {
> text-decoration: none;
> }
> 
> div.attach-table {
> width: 400px;
> }
> 
> div.file-title a, div.file-title a:active, div.file-title a:hover, di>
> > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > 
> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: Jason Mc 
> > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> > > > 
> > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > 
> > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> > > > 
> > > > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > 
> > > > $11.35 US
> > > > 
> > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
> > > > them into new display.
> > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > > > 
> > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > 
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 03/26/11 07:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-27 by jammie

see told you ted was the man if he fitted an led light version it would just 
burn out the led so in effect would need a new led back light

if he is going to fit an led back light he neads to remove the inverter and 
link the 5v across to get 5v to the al terminals also need to add a current 
limiting resistor or the led back light will burn to brightly and burn out 
quickly

the correct  resistor should be given with the manufacturers guide lines if 
fitting an led version  you will have an extra 7mm in hieght from old lcd so 
you need to take out the glass cover and file so that the new lcd will sit 
through the front panel

then you can buy a lcd cover glass which can be glued to the front metal 
plate thats what i had to do to mine

ted do you still have that spare front lcd and buttons pcb as i know i 
wanted it but had a new child and funds became a little short but am do some 
extra fixing so will be into some funds
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted Summers" <djtbs1@...>
To: <emax@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS


> If the Emax can't communicate properly with the display it will hang.
>
> I replaced mine with direct Replacement EL backlght. So I didn't have to 
> modify the power circuit.
> Even then, I had to add a pot to be able to see the screen, as Jammie 
> indicated.
> Every mfr might be different for the pot value.
> Mine required 20K, but some require 5k or 10k.
>
> As Jammie said, the mfr spec (usually available in a pdf) must always be 
> consulted prior to hookup.
> I don't know what the end effect is of hooking an LED to the EL power 
> circuit.
>
>
> You can send me the display panel and logic boards and I can take a look 
> at it.
>
> My address is:
>
> Ted Summers
> 5206 F Street
> Springfield, OR 97478
>
> Be advised I will be unavailable during most of April, so send it quick, 
> or wait til May.
>
> Regards,
> Ted
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2011, at 3:28 PM, mlivingston8 wrote:
>
> I'm located in the states, Atlanta GA, if anyone is willing to fix my LED 
> board.
>
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
>>
>> It's just that for a novice like me, though good at soldering, I have to 
>> rely on the info that was posted here which is a little disjointed. 
>> There's no other info online elsewhere on this procedure and I'm not a 
>> tech to figure the rest out.
>>
>> I'd be willing to pay someone to fix it, I just hope nothing else was 
>> burned up in the process because now the front panel buttons are not 
>> responsive. LEDs light up when turned on but nothing happens when I press 
>> a function button. Overall, I'm really a bit frustrated so my apologies 
>> if I come off a little crass.
>>
>> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>> >
>> > fit a led display as it will blow if you connected it to the ac supply
>> >
>> > also as i said you need to disconent pin 3 by cutting the trac and 
>> > connecting a pot between vcc and ground and the wiper to pin 3 as they 
>> > use a positive angle whetach {
>> clear: both;
>> display: table;
>> font-family: Arial;
>> font-size: 12px;
>> padding: 10px 0;
>> width: 400px;
>> }
>>
>> .attach div a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> .attach img {
>> border: none;
>> padding-right: 5px;
>> }
>>
>> .attach label {
>> display: block;
>> margin-bottom: 5px;
>> }
>>
>> .attach label a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> blockquote {
>> margin: 0 0 0 4px;
>> }
>>
>> .bold {
>> font-family: Arial;
>> font-size: 13px;
>> font-weight: 700;
>> }
>>
>> .bold a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> dd.last p a {
>> font-family: Verdana;
>> font-weight: 700;
>> }
>>
>> dd.last p span {
>> margin-right: 10px;
>> font-family: Verdana;
>> font-weight: 700;
>> }
>>
>> dd.last p span.yshortcuts {
>> margin-right: 0;
>> }
>>
>> div.attach-table div div a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> div.attach-table {
>> width: 400px;
>> }
>>
>> div.file-title a, div.file-title a:active, div.file-title a:hover, di>
>> > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm 
>> > > confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I 
>> > > see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the 
>> > > new display seems a bit wider than the original. Do I have to solder 
>> > > the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
>> > >
>> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack 
>> > > > is a negitive veiw angle voltage
>> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
>> > > > From: Jason Mc
>> > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
>> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>> > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact 
>> > > > part I used.
>> > > >
>> > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
>> > > >
>> > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>> > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>> > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>> > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 
>> > > > 36.0t
>> > > >
>> > > > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
>> > > >
>> > > > $11.35 US
>> > > >
>> > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, 
>> > > > soldered
>> > > > them into new display.
>> > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>> > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display 
>> > > > thickness
>> > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>> > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>> > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED 
>> > > > ground)
>> > > >
>> > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need 
>> > > > for
>> > > > added potentiometer.
>> > > >
>> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 
>> > > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ----------------------------------------------------------
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 
>> > 03/26/11 07:34:00
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Emax and Emax II User's Group Website
>
> http://www.silveriafamily.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 03/26/11 
07:34:00

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-27 by Ted Summers

yes- still got the panel but its emax 2 keyboard.....
still have an emax2 audio board also...

thx,
Ted

PS- I didn't want to mess with the possibility of the power stuff, that is why I got EL replacement as it was as close replacement as you could get. And fit right in.



On Mar 26, 2011, at 5:52 PM, jammie wrote:

see told you ted was the man if he fitted an led light version it would just 
burn out the led so in effect would need a new led back light

if he is going to fit an led back light he neads to remove the inverter and 
link the 5v across to get 5v to the al terminals also need to add a current 
limiting resistor or the led back light will burn to brightly and burn out 
quickly

the correct resistor should be given with the manufacturers guide lines if 
fitting an led version you will have an extra 7mm in hieght from old lcd so 
you need to take out the glass cover and file so that the new lcd will sit 
through the front panel

then you can buy a lcd cover glass which can be glued to the front metal 
plate thats what i had to do to mine

ted do you still have that spare front lcd and buttons pcb as i know i 
wanted it but had a new child and funds became a little short but am do some 
extra fixing so will be into some funds
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted Summers" <djtbs1@...>
To: <emax@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

> If the Emax can't communicate properly with the display it will hang.
>
> I replaced mine with direct Replacement EL backlght. So I didn't have to 
> modify the power circuit.
> Even then, I had to add a pot to be able to see the screen, as Jammie 
> indicated.
> Every mfr might be different for the pot value.
> Mine required 20K, but some require 5k or 10k.
>
> As Jammie said, the mfr spec (usually available in a pdf) must always be 
> consulted prior to hookup.
> I don't know what the end effect is of hooking an LED to the EL power 
> circuit.
>
>
> You can send me the display panel and logic boards and I can take a look 
> at it.
>
> My address is:
>
> Ted Summers
> 5206 F Street
> Springfield, OR 97478
>
> Be advised I will be unavailable during most of April, so send it quick, 
> or wait til May.
>
> Regards,
> Ted
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2011, at 3:28 PM, mlivingston8 wrote:
>
> I'm located in the states, Atlanta GA, if anyone is willing to fix my LED 
> board.
>
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
>>
>> It's just that for a novice like me, though good at soldering, I have to 
>> rely on the info that was posted here which is a little disjointed. 
>> There's no other info online elsewhere on this procedure and I'm not a 
>> tech to figure the rest out.
>>
>> I'd be willing to pay someone to fix it, I just hope nothing else was 
>> burned up in the process because now the front panel buttons are not 
>> responsive. LEDs light up when turned on but nothing happens when I press 
>> a function button. Overall, I'm really a bit frustrated so my apologies 
>> if I come off a little crass.
>>
>> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>> >
>> > fit a led display as it will blow if you connected it to the ac supply
>> >
>> > also as i said you need to disconent pin 3 by cutting the trac and 
>> > connecting a pot between vcc and ground and the wiper to pin 3 as they 
>> > use a positive angle whetach {
>> clear: both;
>> display: table;
>> font-family: Arial;
>> font-size: 12px;
>> padding: 10px 0;
>> width: 400px;
>> }
>>
>> .attach div a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> .attach img {
>> border: none;
>> padding-right: 5px;
>> }
>>
>> .attach label {
>> display: block;
>> margin-bottom: 5px;
>> }
>>
>> .attach label a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> blockquote {
>> margin: 0 0 0 4px;
>> }
>>
>> .bold {
>> font-family: Arial;
>> font-size: 13px;
>> font-weight: 700;
>> }
>>
>> .bold a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> dd.last p a {
>> font-family: Verdana;
>> font-weight: 700;
>> }
>>
>> dd.last p span {
>> margin-right: 10px;
>> font-family: Verdana;
>> font-weight: 700;
>> }
>>
>> dd.last p span.yshortcuts {
>> margin-right: 0;
>> }
>>
>> div.attach-table div div a {
>> text-decoration: none;
>> }
>>
>> div.attach-table {
>> width: 400px;
>> }
>>
>> div.file-title a, div.file-title a:active, div.file-title a:hover, di>
>> > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm 
>> > > confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I 
>> > > see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the 
>> > > new display seems a bit wider than the original. Do I have to solder 
>> > > the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
>> > >
>> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack 
>> > > > is a negitive veiw angle voltage
>> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
>> > > > From: Jason Mc
>> > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
>> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>> > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact 
>> > > > part I used.
>> > > >
>> > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
>> > > >
>> > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>> > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>> > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>> > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 
>> > > > 36.0t
>> > > >
>> > > > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
>> > > >
>> > > > $11.35 US
>> > > >
>> > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, 
>> > > > soldered
>> > > > them into new display.
>> > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>> > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display 
>> > > > thickness
>> > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>> > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>> > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED 
>> > > > ground)
>> > > >
>> > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need 
>> > > > for
>> > > > added potentiometer.
>> > > >
>> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 
>> > > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ----------------------------------------------------------
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 
>> > 03/26/11 07:34:00
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Emax and Emax II User's Group Website
>
> http://www.silveriafamily.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3530 - Release Date: 03/26/11 
07:34:00





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-27 by dutchbeats

he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't solder the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by switching the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you soldered the led + and jason is right :/





--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display.  I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original.  Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
> 
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> >
> > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
> >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> >   From: Jason Mc 
> >   To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
> >   Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> >   Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > 
> > 
> >     
> >   Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> > 
> >   I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > 
> >   Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> >   Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> >   Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> >   Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> > 
> >   http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > 
> >   $11.35 US
> > 
> >   1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
> >   them into new display.
> >   2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> >   3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> >   4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> >   location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> >   5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > 
> >   Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> >   added potentiometer.
> > 
> >   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   No virus found in this incoming message.
> >   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> >   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-27 by mlivingston8

Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board.  Pin A I thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't hook it up to anything.  The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get power, just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax board, that was my conclusion.  The steps were a but confusing which is why I'm in this predicament as of now. 

Ted, thanks for offering your help.  Just to clarify, what boards do I need to send you?  The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED screen?  Or do you need my emax digital board as well?  I'll email you to talk compensation for your services.  I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax because it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it is worth the trouble.  I even fitted it with internal to external connector and have my zip drive ready to roll.  Just no display :(

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't solder the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by switching the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you soldered the led + and jason is right :/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> >
> > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display.  I see the ground and +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit wider than the original.  Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > 
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > >
> > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> > >   From: Jason Mc 
> > >   To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
> > >   Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > >   Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > 
> > > 
> > >     
> > >   Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact part I used.
> > > 
> > >   I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > 
> > >   Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > >   Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > >   Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > >   Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x 36.0t
> > > 
> > >   http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > 
> > >   $11.35 US
> > > 
> > >   1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display, soldered
> > >   them into new display.
> > >   2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > >   3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> > >   4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > >   location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > >   5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > > 
> > >   Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> > >   added potentiometer.
> > > 
> > >   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >   
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >   No virus found in this incoming message.
> > >   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > >   Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date: 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > 
> > > 
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-27 by Jason Mc

Hello All,
Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just posted
pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
I hope this helps!

On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@gmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin A I
> thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't hook it
> up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get power,
> just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is why
> I'm in this predicament as of now.
>
> Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I need
> to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED screen? Or
> do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax because
> it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it is
> worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector and
> have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
>
>
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@...> wrote:
> >
> > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't solder
> the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by switching
> the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you soldered the
> led + and jason is right :/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused
> on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and
> +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and
> bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > >
> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is
> a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact
> part I used.
> > > >
> > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > >
> > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> 36.0t
> > > >
> > > >
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > >
> > > > $11.35 US
> > > >
> > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> soldered
> > > > them into new display.
> > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > > >
> > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> > > > added potentiometer.
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-29 by mlivingston8

Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure.  One person says add a resistor, the other says there is no need to.  Nothing is working for me still.  Jason, did you not have to add pin A?  I took the pin A I had originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at all.  Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor?  At least with pin A in there I got power to everything.  I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hello All,
> Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just posted
> pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> I hope this helps!
> 
> On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin A I
> > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't hook it
> > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get power,
> > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is why
> > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> >
> > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I need
> > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED screen? Or
> > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax because
> > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it is
> > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector and
> > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> >
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> > >
> > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't solder
> > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by switching
> > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you soldered the
> > led + and jason is right :/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused
> > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and
> > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and
> > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > >
> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is
> > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact
> > part I used.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > >
> > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> > 36.0t
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > >
> > > > > $11.35 US
> > > > >
> > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> > soldered
> > > > > them into new display.
> > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > > > >
> > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> > > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> > 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-29 by mlivingston8

Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure.  One person says add a potentiometer, the other says there is no need to.  Nothing is working for me still.  Jason, did you not have to add pin A?  I took the pin A I had originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at all.  Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor?  At least with pin A in there I got power to everything.  I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hello All,
> Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just posted
> pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> I hope this helps!
> 
> On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin A I
> > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't hook it
> > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get power,
> > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is why
> > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> >
> > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I need
> > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED screen? Or
> > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax because
> > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it is
> > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector and
> > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> >
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> > >
> > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't solder
> > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by switching
> > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you soldered the
> > led + and jason is right :/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm confused
> > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the ground and
> > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new display and
> > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > >
> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack is
> > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is exact
> > part I used.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > >
> > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> > 36.0t
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > >
> > > > > $11.35 US
> > > > >
> > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> > soldered
> > > > > them into new display.
> > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display thickness
> > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED ground)
> > > > >
> > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need for
> > > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> > 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-29 by Jason Mc

The one thing I have learned about electronics is patients and attention to
details.
I hope i can help you out. I'm not a professional, I do these repairs as a
hobby in my spare time. Restoring my Emax is worth it, something about the
80's sound that comes from these i really love. What I did was the
following:
1) Remove all the original header pins from the old display
2) Remove the El Foil "Inverter" (small black box) from the CPU board
3) Install old header pins 1-14 into new Led display (On the new display
there will be two empty pins 15,16 that remain empty)
4) Install only header pin K, DO-NOT install header pin A
5) Remove surface mount resistor R7 and solder it in the R8 location (this
pulls 5v from another line)

Did you remove the "inverter" before you tried it for the first time?
If pin A was installed and the "inverter" was still in place you probably
fried the new lcd screen.
On my setup pin A is removed and resistor R7 is swapped with R8, this is the
only way it works.
If you don't Swap the resistor on the new Display, the LED gets too much
current and the Display runs hot (not good)
However with the resistor swap the new display is getting the correct
voltage and current.
Is your Emax the Keyboard version?

Whatever you do don't throw the Emax overboard! My GUESS is that you just
fried the new display.
Get another  Newhaven NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW and try it again

Like Ted said, without a working display the Emax will not boot. I listen to
Ted his advice on all things Emax is always welcome.

Where are you located I'm in the SanFrancisco Bay Area?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-29 by Ted Summers

Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with a
resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is correct).
The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
visible.

Hopefully that makes some sense.

Regards,
Ted




On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:

>
>
> Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add a
> resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
> still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
> originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at all.
> Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in there I
> got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
>
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello All,
> > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
> posted
> > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> > I hope this helps!
> >
> > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin
> A I
> > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
> hook it
> > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
> power,
> > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is
> why
> > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> > >
> > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
> need
> > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
> screen? Or
> > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
> because
> > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it
> is
> > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector
> and
> > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
> solder
> > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
> switching
> > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
> soldered the
> > > led + and jason is right :/
>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
> confused
> > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
> ground and
> > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
> display and
> > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack
> is
> > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > > > To: emax@...m
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
> exact
> > > part I used.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> > > 36.0t
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > >
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > > >
> > > > > > $11.35 US
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> > > soldered
> > > > > > them into new display.
> > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
> thickness
> > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
> ground)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need
> for
> > > > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by mlivingston8

I'm located in Atlanta.  Yeah, I did everything in those steps but put in pin A thinking that it was to supply the voltage to that trace on the LED board.  Ooops :(  I did end up getting the Emax to "kinda" boot and hang today, rather than not at all earlier, after remembering it needed to have the keyboard connectors hooked up to get power to all boards and such.  So, it IS trying to do something but still no screen.  I am praying that I just damaged the screen and a new one will do the trick.

Jason, did you not have to install that other resistor and or potentiometer that Ted speaks of?  I ordered one more newhaven screen and some new header pins from mouser today to give it one more shot before sending it off to Ted or selling the guts straight up.  I'd really like to get it going but I don't have a whole lot of time to get caught up in tech when I can rather be playing or creating music.  I think the reason why I'm a bit flustered is that I've done a lot of other repairs like sliders, batteries, keys, trace repairs, etc on various other synths with a 100% success rate but with the Emax I got a bit in over my head.  Ted, I will have to wait to send you this till May most likely since I'm waiting on more parts to come in next week.


--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> The one thing I have learned about electronics is patients and attention to
> details.
> I hope i can help you out. I'm not a professional, I do these repairs as a
> hobby in my spare time. Restoring my Emax is worth it, something about the
> 80's sound that comes from these i really love. What I did was the
> following:
> 1) Remove all the original header pins from the old display
> 2) Remove the El Foil "Inverter" (small black box) from the CPU board
> 3) Install old header pins 1-14 into new Led display (On the new display
> there will be two empty pins 15,16 that remain empty)
> 4) Install only header pin K, DO-NOT install header pin A
> 5) Remove surface mount resistor R7 and solder it in the R8 location (this
> pulls 5v from another line)
> 
> Did you remove the "inverter" before you tried it for the first time?
> If pin A was installed and the "inverter" was still in place you probably
> fried the new lcd screen.
> On my setup pin A is removed and resistor R7 is swapped with R8, this is the
> only way it works.
> If you don't Swap the resistor on the new Display, the LED gets too much
> current and the Display runs hot (not good)
> However with the resistor swap the new display is getting the correct
> voltage and current.
> Is your Emax the Keyboard version?
> 
> Whatever you do don't throw the Emax overboard! My GUESS is that you just
> fried the new display.
> Get another  Newhaven NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW and try it again
> 
> Like Ted said, without a working display the Emax will not boot. I listen to
> Ted his advice on all things Emax is always welcome.
> 
> Where are you located I'm in the SanFrancisco Bay Area?
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by mlivingston8

Yeah, I think that makes sense to me now.  I'll have to take the emax LED board out and look at the traces again but I do think I remember that pin A was the hot trace from the emax board and K was the ground.  So basically I break the trace and essentially "splice" a resistor in line to bring it down to +5v?

Sorry, I'm slow!  Going to try this one more time before send you the board in May.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Ted Summers <djtbs1@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
> The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
> To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
> display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with a
> resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is correct).
> The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
> reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
> visible.
> 
> Hopefully that makes some sense.
> 
> Regards,
> Ted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add a
> > resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
> > still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
> > originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at all.
> > Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in there I
> > got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
> > posted
> > > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> > > I hope this helps!
> > >
> > > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@>wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin
> > A I
> > > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
> > hook it
> > > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
> > power,
> > > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> > > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is
> > why
> > > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> > > >
> > > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
> > need
> > > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
> > screen? Or
> > > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> > > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
> > because
> > > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it
> > is
> > > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector
> > and
> > > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
> > solder
> > > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
> > switching
> > > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
> > soldered the
> > > > led + and jason is right :/
> >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
> > confused
> > > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
> > ground and
> > > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> > > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
> > display and
> > > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack
> > is
> > > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
> > exact
> > > > part I used.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> > > > 36.0t
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > >
> > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > $11.35 US
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> > > > soldered
> > > > > > > them into new display.
> > > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
> > thickness
> > > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
> > ground)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need
> > for
> > > > > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> > > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by Ted Summers

My understanding is that you are putting a resistor in line with 5v wherever you get that from to reduce it a little to decrease the brightness.

I didn't have to do any of that as I got exact replacements, not LEDs.

Thx,
Ted

On Mar 29, 2011, at 5:11 PM, mlivingston8 wrote:

Yeah, I think that makes sense to me now. I'll have to take the emax LED board out and look at the traces again but I do think I remember that pin A was the hot trace from the emax board and K was the ground. So basically I break the trace and essentially "splice" a resistor in line to bring it down to +5v?

Sorry, I'm slow! Going to try this one more time before send you the board in May.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Ted Summers <djtbs1@...> wrote:
>
> Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
> The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
> To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
> display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with a
> resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is correct).
> The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
> reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
> visible.
> 
> Hopefully that makes some sense.
> 
> Regards,
> Ted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add a
> > resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
> > still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
> > originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at all.
> > Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in there I
> > got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
> > posted
> > > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> > > I hope this helps!
> > >
> > > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@>wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin
> > A I
> > > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
> > hook it
> > > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
> > power,
> > > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> > > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is
> > why
> > > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> > > >
> > > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
> > need
> > > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
> > screen? Or
> > > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> > > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
> > because
> > > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it
> > is
> > > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector
> > and
> > > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
> > solder
> > > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
> > switching
> > > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
> > soldered the
> > > > led + and jason is right :/
> >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In emax@...m, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
> > confused
> > > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
> > ground and
> > > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> > > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
> > display and
> > > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack
> > is
> > > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
> > exact
> > > > part I used.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> > > > 36.0t
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > >
> > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > $11.35 US
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> > > > soldered
> > > > > > > them into new display.
> > > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
> > thickness
> > > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
> > ground)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need
> > for
> > > > > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> > > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > 
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by jammie

thats right

current limiting resistor for the led back light manufacturers 
recommendation for there display

cut the track to the a pin correct this comes from the ac inverter for the 
el back light which is 400vac

connect A pin with a current limiting resistor to +5 volts

then for angle a linear pot betwwen +5 volts and 0volts with the wipper 
going to pin 3 cut track on pin 3 pcb so that the pot controls the angle set 
max voltage to 4.2volts

then adjust any thing below 4.2volts for the angle you require

remove the ac inverter this will stop the high pitch wine

file out front plate so new display will fit


----- Original Message ----- 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "Ted Summers" <djtbs1@...>
To: <emax@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 11:49 PM
Subject: Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS


> Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
> The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
> To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
> display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with 
> a
> resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is 
> correct).
> The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
> reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
> visible.
>
> Hopefully that makes some sense.
>
> Regards,
> Ted
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 
> <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add 
>> a
>> resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
>> still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
>> originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at 
>> all.
>> Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in 
>> there I
>> got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
>>
>> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hello All,
>> > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
>> posted
>> > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
>> > I hope this helps!
>> >
>> > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
>> >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. 
>> > > Pin
>> A I
>> > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
>> hook it
>> > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
>> power,
>> > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the 
>> > > emax
>> > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which 
>> > > is
>> why
>> > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
>> > >
>> > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
>> need
>> > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
>> screen? Or
>> > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
>> > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
>> because
>> > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so 
>> > > it
>> is
>> > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external 
>> > > connector
>> and
>> > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
>> solder
>> > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
>> switching
>> > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
>> soldered the
>> > > led + and jason is right :/
>>
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
>> confused
>> > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
>> ground and
>> > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a 
>> > > bit
>> > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
>> display and
>> > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the 
>> > > > > > rack
>> is
>> > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
>> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > > > > From: Jason Mc
>> > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
>> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>> > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
>> exact
>> > > part I used.
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>> > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>> > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>> > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 
>> > > > > > x
>> > > 36.0t
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > >
>> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > $11.35 US
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
>> > > soldered
>> > > > > > them into new display.
>> > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>> > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
>> thickness
>> > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>> > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>> > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
>> ground)
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no 
>> > > > > > need
>> for
>> > > > > > added potentiometer.
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
>> > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Emax and Emax II User's Group Website
>
> http://www.silveriafamily.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by mlivingston8

Ok, so for the novice people (me) I assume this resistor is pretty common and I can get it from radio shack.  What resistor do I need to buy here?  Hell, if they carry the potentiometer too then maybe it is one stop shopping?

If this works maybe this group should compile this info and put it as a write-up in the database.  There are already pictures of most of this job but for someone like me, the excluded info could really help a brother out!

Still praying my emax is ok,
Matt

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> thats right
> 
> current limiting resistor for the led back light manufacturers 
> recommendation for there display
> 
> cut the track to the a pin correct this comes from the ac inverter for the 
> el back light which is 400vac
> 
> connect A pin with a current limiting resistor to +5 volts
> 
> then for angle a linear pot betwwen +5 volts and 0volts with the wipper 
> going to pin 3 cut track on pin 3 pcb so that the pot controls the angle set 
> max voltage to 4.2volts
> 
> then adjust any thing below 4.2volts for the angle you require
> 
> remove the ac inverter this will stop the high pitch wine
> 
> file out front plate so new display will fit
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ted Summers" <djtbs1@...>
> To: <emax@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 11:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> 
> 
> > Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
> > The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
> > To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
> > display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with 
> > a
> > resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is 
> > correct).
> > The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
> > reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
> > visible.
> >
> > Hopefully that makes some sense.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Ted
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 
> > <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add 
> >> a
> >> resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
> >> still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
> >> originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at 
> >> all.
> >> Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in 
> >> there I
> >> got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
> >>
> >> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Hello All,
> >> > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
> >> posted
> >> > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> >> > I hope this helps!
> >> >
> >> > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@>wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. 
> >> > > Pin
> >> A I
> >> > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
> >> hook it
> >> > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
> >> power,
> >> > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the 
> >> > > emax
> >> > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which 
> >> > > is
> >> why
> >> > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> >> > >
> >> > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
> >> need
> >> > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
> >> screen? Or
> >> > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> >> > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
> >> because
> >> > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so 
> >> > > it
> >> is
> >> > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external 
> >> > > connector
> >> and
> >> > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
> >> solder
> >> > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
> >> switching
> >> > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
> >> soldered the
> >> > > led + and jason is right :/
> >>
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
> >> confused
> >> > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
> >> ground and
> >> > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a 
> >> > > bit
> >> > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
> >> display and
> >> > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the 
> >> > > > > > rack
> >> is
> >> > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> >> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > > > > > From: Jason Mc
> >> > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> >> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> >> > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
> >> exact
> >> > > part I used.
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> >> > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> >> > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> >> > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 
> >> > > > > > x
> >> > > 36.0t
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > >
> >> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > $11.35 US
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> >> > > soldered
> >> > > > > > them into new display.
> >> > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> >> > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
> >> thickness
> >> > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> >> > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> >> > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
> >> ground)
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no 
> >> > > > > > need
> >> for
> >> > > > > > added potentiometer.
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> >> > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
> >> > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Emax and Emax II User's Group Website
> >
> > http://www.silveriafamily.comYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by jammie

yes to much current burns the led to bright and it can burn it out quicker 
than an el panel
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted Summers" <djtbs1@...>
To: <emax@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 4:24 AM
Subject: Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS


> My understanding is that you are putting a resistor in line with 5v 
> wherever you get that from to reduce it a little to decrease the 
> brightness.
>
> I didn't have to do any of that as I got exact replacements, not LEDs.
>
> Thx,
> Ted
>
> On Mar 29, 2011, at 5:11 PM, mlivingston8 wrote:
>
> Yeah, I think that makes sense to me now. I'll have to take the emax LED 
> board out and look at the traces again but I do think I remember that pin 
> A was the hot trace from the emax board and K was the ground. So basically 
> I break the trace and essentially "splice" a resistor in line to bring it 
> down to +5v?
>
> Sorry, I'm slow! Going to try this one more time before send you the board 
> in May.
>
> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Ted Summers <djtbs1@...> wrote:
>>
>> Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
>> The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
>> To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
>> display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with 
>> a
>> resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is 
>> correct).
>> The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
>> reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are 
>> barely
>> visible.
>>
>> Hopefully that makes some sense.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Ted
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says 
>> > add a
>> > resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
>> > still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
>> > originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at 
>> > all.
>> > Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in 
>> > there I
>> > got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
>> >
>> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hello All,
>> > > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
>> > posted
>> > > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
>> > > I hope this helps!
>> > >
>> > > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@>wrote:
>> > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. 
>> > > > Pin
>> > A I
>> > > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
>> > hook it
>> > > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to 
>> > > > get
>> > power,
>> > > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the 
>> > > > emax
>> > > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which 
>> > > > is
>> > why
>> > > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
>> > > >
>> > > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do 
>> > > > I
>> > need
>> > > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
>> > screen? Or
>> > > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
>> > > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
>> > because
>> > > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, 
>> > > > so it
>> > is
>> > > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external 
>> > > > connector
>> > and
>> > > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
>> > solder
>> > > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
>> > switching
>> > > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
>> > soldered the
>> > > > led + and jason is right :/
>> >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> 
>> > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
>> > confused
>> > > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
>> > ground and
>> > > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a 
>> > > > bit
>> > > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
>> > display and
>> > > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the 
>> > > > > > > rack
>> > is
>> > > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
>> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > > > > > From: Jason Mc
>> > > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
>> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
>> > > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
>> > exact
>> > > > part I used.
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
>> > > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
>> > > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
>> > > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 
>> > > > > > > 85.0 x
>> > > > 36.0t
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > >
>> > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > $11.35 US
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
>> > > > soldered
>> > > > > > > them into new display.
>> > > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
>> > > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
>> > thickness
>> > > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
>> > > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
>> > > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
>> > ground)
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no 
>> > > > > > > need
>> > for
>> > > > > > > added potentiometer.
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> > > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release 
>> > > > > > > Date:
>> > > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
>> > > > > > >
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> Emax and Emax II User's Group Website
>
> http://www.silveriafamily.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3537 - Release Date: 03/29/11 
06:34:00

Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS

2011-03-30 by jammie

read the pdf of your lcd manufacturer it will tell you what size resistor to useits just a back up to prevent the over current

as for the pot i used a 10k linear 1 with insulated lead wires its usually set and forget 

it will tell you the max voltage of the angle usually .8 volt lower vcc being 5volts but depends on manufacturer

remember to cut the trace for pin A as you dont want the 400 vac going to the led as thats how you blow it up last time get a craft knife and slice the track about 1mm apart then solder  the correct resistor to pin A and a fly lead cable to a 5v source 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mlivingston8 
  To: emax@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 7:54 AM
  Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS


    
  Ok, so for the novice people (me) I assume this resistor is pretty common and I can get it from radio shack. What resistor do I need to buy here? Hell, if they carry the potentiometer too then maybe it is one stop shopping?

  If this works maybe this group should compile this info and put it as a write-up in the database. There are already pictures of most of this job but for someone like me, the excluded info could really help a brother out!

  Still praying my emax is ok,
  Matt

  --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@...> wrote:
  >
  > thats right
  > 
  > current limiting resistor for the led back light manufacturers 
  > recommendation for there display
  > 
  > cut the track to the a pin correct this comes from the ac inverter for the 
  > el back light which is 400vac
  > 
  > connect A pin with a current limiting resistor to +5 volts
  > 
  > then for angle a linear pot betwwen +5 volts and 0volts with the wipper 
  > going to pin 3 cut track on pin 3 pcb so that the pot controls the angle set 
  > max voltage to 4.2volts
  > 
  > then adjust any thing below 4.2volts for the angle you require
  > 
  > remove the ac inverter this will stop the high pitch wine
  > 
  > file out front plate so new display will fit
  > 
  > 
  > ----- Original Message ----- 
  > From: "Ted Summers" <djtbs1@...>
  > To: <emax@yahoogroups.com>
  > Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 11:49 PM
  > Subject: Re: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
  > 
  > 
  > > Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
  > > The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
  > > To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
  > > display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with 
  > > a
  > > resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is 
  > > correct).
  > > The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
  > > reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
  > > visible.
  > >
  > > Hopefully that makes some sense.
  > >
  > > Regards,
  > > Ted
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 
  > > <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
  > >
  > >>
  > >>
  > >> Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add 
  > >> a
  > >> resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
  > >> still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
  > >> originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at 
  > >> all.
  > >> Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in 
  > >> there I
  > >> got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
  > >>
  > >> --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@> wrote:
  > >> >
  > >> > Hello All,
  > >> > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
  > >> posted
  > >> > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
  > >> > I hope this helps!
  > >> >
  > >> > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@>wrote:
  > >> >
  > >> > >
  > >> > >
  > >> > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. 
  > >> > > Pin
  > >> A I
  > >> > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
  > >> hook it
  > >> > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
  > >> power,
  > >> > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the 
  > >> > > emax
  > >> > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which 
  > >> > > is
  > >> why
  > >> > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
  > >> > >
  > >> > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
  > >> need
  > >> > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
  > >> screen? Or
  > >> > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
  > >> > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
  > >> because
  > >> > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so 
  > >> > > it
  > >> is
  > >> > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external 
  > >> > > connector
  > >> and
  > >> > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
  > >> > >
  > >> > >
  > >> > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
  > >> > > >
  > >> > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
  > >> solder
  > >> > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
  > >> switching
  > >> > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
  > >> soldered the
  > >> > > led + and jason is right :/
  > >>
  > >> > > >
  > >> > > >
  > >> > > >
  > >> > > >
  > >> > > >
  > >> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
  > >> > > > >
  > >> > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
  > >> confused
  > >> > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
  > >> ground and
  > >> > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a 
  > >> > > bit
  > >> > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
  > >> display and
  > >> > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
  > >> > > > >
  > >> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the 
  > >> > > > > > rack
  > >> is
  > >> > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
  > >> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
  > >> > > > > > From: Jason Mc
  > >> > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
  > >> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
  > >> > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
  > >> exact
  > >> > > part I used.
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
  > >> > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
  > >> > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
  > >> > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 
  > >> > > > > > x
  > >> > > 36.0t
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > >
  > >> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > $11.35 US
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
  > >> > > soldered
  > >> > > > > > them into new display.
  > >> > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
  > >> > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
  > >> thickness
  > >> > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
  > >> > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
  > >> > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
  > >> ground)
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no 
  > >> > > > > > need
  > >> for
  > >> > > > > > added potentiometer.
  > >> > > > > >
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  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > >> > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  > >> > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
  > >> > > 03/15/11 07:34:00
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >> > > > > >
  > >> > > > >
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  > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > ------------------------------------
  > >
  > > Emax and Emax II User's Group Website
  > >
  > > http://www.silveriafamily.comYahoo! Groups Links
  > >
  > >
  > >
  >



  


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