Emax

Yeah, I think that makes sense to me now.  I'll have to take the emax LED board out and look at the traces again but I do think I remember that pin A was the hot trace from the emax board and K was the ground.  So basically I break the trace and essentially "splice" a resistor in line to bring it down to +5v?

Sorry, I'm slow!  Going to try this one more time before send you the board in May.

--- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Ted Summers <djtbs1@...> wrote:
>
> Pin A and K are the anode and cathode of the backlight.
> The original EL backlight on Emax is not +5V.
> To use an LED backlight, you break the connection of the A pin on the
> display board and then connect the pad going into the display to +5V with a
> resistor in line to reduce the brightness (if my understanding is correct).
> The pot people talked about is added between a couple pins to change
> reflective angle in the event you can't see the letters or they are barely
> visible.
> 
> Hopefully that makes some sense.
> 
> Regards,
> Ted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 8:37 AM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@...>wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Call me stupid but I still don't get this procedure. One person says add a
> > resistor, the other says there is no need to. Nothing is working for me
> > still. Jason, did you not have to add pin A? I took the pin A I had
> > originally soldered in out again but now the Emax will not turn on at all.
> > Maybe I burnt out that surfacemount resistor? At least with pin A in there I
> > got power to everything. I'm about to throw this thing off a bridge.
> >
> > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Jason Mc <jasonmcdougal@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > > Have a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emax/photos/album I just
> > posted
> > > pictures of the steps I took replacing my Emax Display.
> > > I hope this helps!
> > >
> > > On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 1:24 PM, mlivingston8 <mlivingston8@>wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yeah, I soldered in the resistor to the other jumper on the board. Pin
> > A I
> > > > thought was implied because just moving that resistor still doesn't
> > hook it
> > > > up to anything. The pin still has to be soldered to the board to get
> > power,
> > > > just by looking at the traces on the board and following it to the emax
> > > > board, that was my conclusion. The steps were a but confusing which is
> > why
> > > > I'm in this predicament as of now.
> > > >
> > > > Ted, thanks for offering your help. Just to clarify, what boards do I
> > need
> > > > to send you? The emax LED board and the replacement newhaven LED
> > screen? Or
> > > > do you need my emax digital board as well? I'll email you to talk
> > > > compensation for your services. I hope I haven't FUBAR'd this emax
> > because
> > > > it's the last revision digital board with scsi already installed, so it
> > is
> > > > worth the trouble. I even fitted it with internal to external connector
> > and
> > > > have my zip drive ready to roll. Just no display :(
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "dutchbeats" <dutchbeats@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > he said to solder 1 - 14 and pin k which is the led ground. don't
> > solder
> > > > the led + because you already are getting power for the screen by
> > switching
> > > > the resister on the led board from r7 to r8. please tell me you
> > soldered the
> > > > led + and jason is right :/
> >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "mlivingston8" <mlivingston8@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've replaced the header pins 1-14 to the new display but I'm
> > confused
> > > > on where to solder the A and K pins on the new display. I see the
> > ground and
> > > > +5 on the Emax LED board but the spacing on the new display seems a bit
> > > > wider than the original. Do I have to solder the pins on the new
> > display and
> > > > bend them to fit the Emax board?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, "jammie" <jammie.emma@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > on the rack you would still need the pot as the angle on the rack
> > is
> > > > a negitive veiw angle voltage
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: Jason Mc
> > > > > > > To: emax@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 12:05 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: [emax] Re: LCD replacement from RS
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Sorry about the last post gave the wrong part number, this is
> > exact
> > > > part I used.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have recently replaced my el foil display with this one:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mouser Part #: 763-NHD-0216EZ-FLYBW
> > > > > > > Manufacturer Part #: NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW
> > > > > > > Manufacturer: Newhaven Display
> > > > > > > Description:LCD Character Display Modules STN- Y/G Transfl 85.0 x
> > > > 36.0t
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > >
> > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216EZ-FL-YBW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7dcPGmvnkBq9RSAvEJGmRKdDSboNhMSQ%3d
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > $11.35 US
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > 1) De-soldered the old header pins from the original display,
> > > > soldered
> > > > > > > them into new display.
> > > > > > > 2) Removed the old EL-Foil Driver (black box)
> > > > > > > 3) Used router and file on case to accommodate new display
> > thickness
> > > > > > > 4) De-solder surface mount resistor R7, Solder resistor in R8
> > > > > > > location. This supply's the +5v for LED Backlight
> > > > > > > 5) Header pins 1-14 need to be in place along with pin K (LED
> > ground)
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Nice new low power LED BackLight display, great contrast no need
> > for
> > > > > > > added potentiometer.
> > > > > > >
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> > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
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> > > > > > > Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3508 - Release Date:
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