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2008-02-09 by alancurrall
Okay I got a replacement LCD module from RS components this is the part: http://www.powertip.com.tw/products_2.php?product_id=1171043433&area_idbk=1170985616 Trouble is, it has 16 connections up one end instead of the 14 required. Other than that it's a perfect fit. Of course I've tried it, ignoring the last to connections (15 and 16) and nothing happens. Anyone got any experience in this area? Cheers, Alan
2008-02-09 by ted Summers
I believe those last two connections may be for the backlight. ON the original the extra two pins came out the other end, and are what held up the old. Did you get an EL display? There should be some spec information for the pinouts.... Regards, Ted
2008-02-09 by Roland S-50
Hi Alan, I'm currently waiting on my replacement LCD, which is very similar spec to yours. I would expect that it's a direct replacement - after soldering on the 14-pin header of course... Do you get anything at all? Do you have the two-pin backlight header soldered on as well? Are you replacing your Emax LCD because of a dead backlight? Cheers, Mike. On 10/02/2008, alancurrall <alan@...> wrote: > > Okay I got a replacement LCD module from RS components this is the part: > > > http://www.powertip.com.tw/products_2.php?product_id=1171043433&area_idbk=1170985616 > > Trouble is, it has 16 connections up one end instead of the 14 > required. Other than that it's a perfect fit. Of course I've tried it, > ignoring the last to connections (15 and 16) and nothing happens. > Anyone got any experience in this area? > > Cheers, > Alan > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-09 by Alan Currall
Hi Mike, It's a bit of a sorry tail of woe. The dim backlight didn't bother me too much, but there was a background high pitch whine that some people attributed to the lcd so, after buggering up the original one by shoving bits of cardboard behind it, as advised, I thought I may as well completely replace the module. The one I got conforms as closely to the recommended replacement as any I could find, but the documentation on it is all a bit overwhelming and confusing for a novice like me. I desoldered the original one away from the pins that connect it to the board, leaving the pins in place. I cleaned up the pins and plugged them straight into the aligning holes on the lcd module. I then tried cautiously powering it up without committing to any soldering. I get no response at all. What worries me more is that no LED's come on either, although the floppy drive does start spinning. Could it be that I need to bite the bullet and actually solder the thing in place? I have wiggled the module in place while powered up in case the contacts just aren't firm enough, but it seems to make no difference. Any suggestions? Thanks, Alan On 9 Feb 2008, at 5:34PM, Roland S-50 wrote: > Hi Alan, > > I'm currently waiting on my replacement LCD, which is very similar > spec to > yours. > > I would expect that it's a direct replacement - after soldering on the > 14-pin header of course... > > Do you get anything at all? > > Do you have the two-pin backlight header soldered on as well? > > Are you replacing your Emax LCD because of a dead backlight? > > Cheers, > > Mike. > > On 10/02/2008, alancurrall <alan@...> wrote: > > > > Okay I got a replacement LCD module from RS components this is > the part: > > > > > > http://www.powertip.com.tw/products_2.php? > product_id=1171043433&area_idbk=1170985616 > > > > Trouble is, it has 16 connections up one end instead of the 14 > > required. Other than that it's a perfect fit. Of course I've > tried it, > > ignoring the last to connections (15 and 16) and nothing happens. > > Anyone got any experience in this area? > > > > Cheers, > > Alan > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-09 by ted Summers
Alan- The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks whether the LCD is displaying or not. There are 2 kinds of LCD- EL (Electro Luminescent back light - which takes 110V AC), and LED backlight (+5v or +12v - not sure which). When I got mine, I got EL, but there are two rows of 8 (16 pin). There are contacts on the other end for the backlight as well. I got additional pins so I could put the old display back as necessary (for test purposes). The pins were only like $2. You would not populate pins 15 and 16, and would connect those other two pins at the opposite end of the display for the Backlight.... However- that is assuming that you have an EL backlight. if you have LED backlight, the high voltage could immediately blow out the LED for the backlight, and could possible damage the main emax board. You need to determine which kind of new display you have, then we can go from there. regards, Ted
2008-02-10 by mr julian
from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED backlight...... so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight inverter module anymore. pull it out, too! Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming the LED load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W resistor from to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" connection to ground. The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I imagine.... (not that I've ever tried, though!) The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone checked the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and the new module?? ted Summers wrote:
>Alan- > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks whether >the LCD is displaying or not. > > >
2008-02-11 by Alan Currall
Oh shit! My soldering skills are even less developed than I had feared... I've made a right hash of the back of the button board that hosts the LCD module. Patches of scorched board and smears of useless solder now litter the area where the 14 pins come through. I'm worried that I may even have breached the integrity of on or two of the tracks. I guess this is what comes of impatiently trying to do a job inadequately equipped. Just out of (probably purely academic by now) interest what size soldering iron tip should I have attempted this butchery with? Also are there any recognised techniques for cleaning up a mess looking piece of board? With any luck it may just look worse than it actually is. Forlornly, Alan On 10 Feb 2008, at 10:00PM, mr julian wrote: > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED backlight...... > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight inverter > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming the LED > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W resistor > from > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" connection to > ground. > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I imagine.... > (not > that I've ever tried, though!) > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone checked > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and the new > module?? > > ted Summers wrote: > > >Alan- > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks whether > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-11 by Roland S-50
Hi Alan, I was thinking of using and LED backlight too, but it looked like the LCD assembly would be too thick (around 12mm as opposed to 8mm(?) for the EL backlight-type LCD... If it does fit in place okay please let me know. Cheers, Mike. On 11/02/2008, mr julian <jujulilianan@...> wrote: > > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED backlight...... > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight inverter > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming the LED > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W resistor from > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" connection to > ground. > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I imagine.... (not > that I've ever tried, though!) > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone checked > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and the new > module?? > > ted Summers wrote: > > >Alan- > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks whether > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-12 by Mike
Hi Alan, Just curious: why are you soldering on the button-board? On my Emax, the LCD assembly comes out (the 14 pin header simply plugs into the connector on the button-board) Is it soldered in-place on yours? cheers, Mike. --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Alan Currall <alan@...> wrote:
> > Oh shit! > > My soldering skills are even less developed than I had feared... > > I've made a right hash of the back of the button board that hosts the > LCD module. Patches of scorched board and smears of useless solder > now litter the area where the 14 pins come through. I'm worried that > I may even have breached the integrity of on or two of the tracks. > > I guess this is what comes of impatiently trying to do a job > inadequately equipped. Just out of (probably purely academic by now) > interest what size soldering iron tip should I have attempted this > butchery with? Also are there any recognised techniques for cleaning > up a mess looking piece of board? With any luck it may just look > worse than it actually is. > > Forlornly, > Alan > > On 10 Feb 2008, at 10:00PM, mr julian wrote: > > > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED backlight...... > > > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight inverter > > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming the LED > > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W resistor > > from > > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" connection to > > ground. > > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I imagine.... > > (not > > that I've ever tried, though!) > > > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone checked > > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and the new > > module?? > > > > ted Summers wrote: > > > > >Alan- > > > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks whether > > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2008-02-12 by Alan Currall
Mike, Yeah it was soldered, and quite a fiddly bit for a novice like me to tackle. My Emax's life now rests on finding someone skillful enough to make good my handy work. As I couldn't even find anyone to to replace to power supply recently, I fear the worst. Anybody out there got a dead Emax I (rack) with a good button board? Cheers, Alan On 12 Feb 2008, at 3:52AM, Mike wrote: > Hi Alan, > > Just curious: why are you soldering on the button-board? > > On my Emax, the LCD assembly comes out (the 14 pin header simply plugs > into the connector on the button-board) > > Is it soldered in-place on yours? > > cheers, > > Mike. > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com, Alan Currall <alan@...> wrote: > > > > Oh shit! > > > > My soldering skills are even less developed than I had feared... > > > > I've made a right hash of the back of the button board that hosts > the > > LCD module. Patches of scorched board and smears of useless solder > > now litter the area where the 14 pins come through. I'm worried that > > I may even have breached the integrity of on or two of the tracks. > > > > I guess this is what comes of impatiently trying to do a job > > inadequately equipped. Just out of (probably purely academic by now) > > interest what size soldering iron tip should I have attempted this > > butchery with? Also are there any recognised techniques for cleaning > > up a mess looking piece of board? With any luck it may just look > > worse than it actually is. > > > > Forlornly, > > Alan > > > > On 10 Feb 2008, at 10:00PM, mr julian wrote: > > > > > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED > backlight...... > > > > > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight > inverter > > > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > > > > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming the LED > > > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W > resistor > > > from > > > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" > connection to > > > ground. > > > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I imagine.... > > > (not > > > that I've ever tried, though!) > > > > > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone > checked > > > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and the > new > > > module?? > > > > > > ted Summers wrote: > > > > > > >Alan- > > > > > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks > whether > > > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-12 by Roland S-50
Hi Alan, Strange... Everything on my button board (including all the LEDs) are fitted to 'pop-in/out' connectors, which I guess makes things easier! Pity you are so far away from me, as I'd help you out (I'm in Melbourne, Australia!). The button board wouldn't be a dead-loss, since it's only a single-layer board, so any damaged tracks could be patched up pretty easily. As for the PSU, I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) it produces fairly standard voltages and I've even heard of PC power supplies being hacked about and used instead... If I had the schematics (does anyone have the PDFs?) I'd be able to comment a bit more on the PSU... Cheers, Mike. On 12/02/2008, Alan Currall <alan@...> wrote: > > Mike, Yeah it was soldered, and quite a fiddly bit for a novice like > me to tackle. My Emax's life now rests on finding someone skillful > enough to make good my handy work. As I couldn't even find anyone to > to replace to power supply recently, I fear the worst. Anybody out > there got a dead Emax I (rack) with a good button board? > > Cheers, > Alan > > On 12 Feb 2008, at 3:52AM, Mike wrote: > > > Hi Alan, > > > > Just curious: why are you soldering on the button-board? > > > > On my Emax, the LCD assembly comes out (the 14 pin header simply plugs > > into the connector on the button-board) > > > > Is it soldered in-place on yours? > > > > cheers, > > > > Mike. > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com <emax%40yahoogroups.com>, Alan Currall > <alan@...> wrote: > > > > > > Oh shit! > > > > > > My soldering skills are even less developed than I had feared... > > > > > > I've made a right hash of the back of the button board that hosts > > the > > > LCD module. Patches of scorched board and smears of useless solder > > > now litter the area where the 14 pins come through. I'm worried that > > > I may even have breached the integrity of on or two of the tracks. > > > > > > I guess this is what comes of impatiently trying to do a job > > > inadequately equipped. Just out of (probably purely academic by now) > > > interest what size soldering iron tip should I have attempted this > > > butchery with? Also are there any recognised techniques for cleaning > > > up a mess looking piece of board? With any luck it may just look > > > worse than it actually is. > > > > > > Forlornly, > > > Alan > > > > > > On 10 Feb 2008, at 10:00PM, mr julian wrote: > > > > > > > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED > > backlight...... > > > > > > > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight > > inverter > > > > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > > > > > > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming the LED > > > > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W > > resistor > > > > from > > > > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" > > connection to > > > > ground. > > > > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I imagine.... > > > > (not > > > > that I've ever tried, though!) > > > > > > > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone > > checked > > > > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and the > > new > > > > module?? > > > > > > > > ted Summers wrote: > > > > > > > > >Alan- > > > > > > > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks > > whether > > > > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-12 by Alan Currall
Hi again Mike, (My God what time is it in Melbourne?) Thanks for your support. Yes, I guess it wouldn't be that difficult for anyone with a bit more electronics experience. I did actually manage to successfully track down and fit a power supply and I was quite proud of my handiwork. That's what really irks me about buggering up this solder job. If only mine had pop-in/out connectors! Cheers, Alan On 12 Feb 2008, at 8:43AM, Roland S-50 wrote: > Hi Alan, > > Strange... Everything on my button board (including all the LEDs) > are fitted > to 'pop-in/out' connectors, which I guess makes things easier! > > Pity you are so far away from me, as I'd help you out (I'm in > Melbourne, > Australia!). The button board wouldn't be a dead-loss, since it's > only a > single-layer board, so any damaged tracks could be patched up > pretty easily. > > As for the PSU, I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) it > produces fairly > standard voltages and I've even heard of PC power supplies being > hacked > about and used instead... > > If I had the schematics (does anyone have the PDFs?) I'd be able to > comment > a bit more on the PSU... > > Cheers, > > Mike. > > On 12/02/2008, Alan Currall <alan@...> wrote: > > > > Mike, Yeah it was soldered, and quite a fiddly bit for a novice like > > me to tackle. My Emax's life now rests on finding someone skillful > > enough to make good my handy work. As I couldn't even find anyone to > > to replace to power supply recently, I fear the worst. Anybody out > > there got a dead Emax I (rack) with a good button board? > > > > Cheers, > > Alan > > > > On 12 Feb 2008, at 3:52AM, Mike wrote: > > > > > Hi Alan, > > > > > > Just curious: why are you soldering on the button-board? > > > > > > On my Emax, the LCD assembly comes out (the 14 pin header > simply plugs > > > into the connector on the button-board) > > > > > > Is it soldered in-place on yours? > > > > > > cheers, > > > > > > Mike. > > > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com <emax%40yahoogroups.com>, Alan Currall > > <alan@...> wrote: > > > > > > > > Oh shit! > > > > > > > > My soldering skills are even less developed than I had feared... > > > > > > > > I've made a right hash of the back of the button board that > hosts > > > the > > > > LCD module. Patches of scorched board and smears of useless > solder > > > > now litter the area where the 14 pins come through. I'm > worried that > > > > I may even have breached the integrity of on or two of the > tracks. > > > > > > > > I guess this is what comes of impatiently trying to do a job > > > > inadequately equipped. Just out of (probably purely academic > by now) > > > > interest what size soldering iron tip should I have attempted > this > > > > butchery with? Also are there any recognised techniques for > cleaning > > > > up a mess looking piece of board? With any luck it may just look > > > > worse than it actually is. > > > > > > > > Forlornly, > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > On 10 Feb 2008, at 10:00PM, mr julian wrote: > > > > > > > > > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED > > > backlight...... > > > > > > > > > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight > > > inverter > > > > > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > > > > > > > > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming > the LED > > > > > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W > > > resistor > > > > > from > > > > > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" > > > connection to > > > > > ground. > > > > > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I > imagine.... > > > > > (not > > > > > that I've ever tried, though!) > > > > > > > > > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone > > > checked > > > > > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and > the > > > new > > > > > module?? > > > > > > > > > > ted Summers wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >Alan- > > > > > > > > > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks > > > whether > > > > > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2008-02-12 by Roland S-50
Hi Alan, Oh, it was only 6:00pm in the evening (we're 11 hours ahead of you) - it's 9:45pm now! If you have a multimeter you could use it to check the track and if any of them are damaged and you don't fancy bridging the tracks, you can always solder thin wires between the components at each 'end of the broken tracks - if you get what I mean? I'm no soldering whizz, but I'd be pretty confident that yor button board would be a pretty simple fix. alternatively you could go along to maplins or another electronics shop and see if they can point you in the direction of someone who could get your board working again. Cheers, Mike. On 12/02/2008, Alan Currall <alan@...> wrote: > > Hi again Mike, > > (My God what time is it in Melbourne?) > Thanks for your support. Yes, I guess it wouldn't be that difficult > for anyone with a bit more electronics experience. > I did actually manage to successfully track down and fit a power > supply and I was quite proud of my handiwork. That's what really irks > me about buggering up this solder job. If only mine had pop-in/out > connectors! > > Cheers, > Alan > > > On 12 Feb 2008, at 8:43AM, Roland S-50 wrote: > > > Hi Alan, > > > > Strange... Everything on my button board (including all the LEDs) > > are fitted > > to 'pop-in/out' connectors, which I guess makes things easier! > > > > Pity you are so far away from me, as I'd help you out (I'm in > > Melbourne, > > Australia!). The button board wouldn't be a dead-loss, since it's > > only a > > single-layer board, so any damaged tracks could be patched up > > pretty easily. > > > > As for the PSU, I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) it > > produces fairly > > standard voltages and I've even heard of PC power supplies being > > hacked > > about and used instead... > > > > If I had the schematics (does anyone have the PDFs?) I'd be able to > > comment > > a bit more on the PSU... > > > > Cheers, > > > > Mike. > > > > On 12/02/2008, Alan Currall <alan@...<alan%40wanlockhead.demon.co.uk>> > wrote: > > > > > > Mike, Yeah it was soldered, and quite a fiddly bit for a novice like > > > me to tackle. My Emax's life now rests on finding someone skillful > > > enough to make good my handy work. As I couldn't even find anyone to > > > to replace to power supply recently, I fear the worst. Anybody out > > > there got a dead Emax I (rack) with a good button board? > > > > > > Cheers, > > > Alan > > > > > > On 12 Feb 2008, at 3:52AM, Mike wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Alan, > > > > > > > > Just curious: why are you soldering on the button-board? > > > > > > > > On my Emax, the LCD assembly comes out (the 14 pin header > > simply plugs > > > > into the connector on the button-board) > > > > > > > > Is it soldered in-place on yours? > > > > > > > > cheers, > > > > > > > > Mike. > > > > > > > > --- In emax@yahoogroups.com <emax%40yahoogroups.com><emax%40yahoogroups.com>, Alan Currall > > > <alan@...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Oh shit! > > > > > > > > > > My soldering skills are even less developed than I had feared... > > > > > > > > > > I've made a right hash of the back of the button board that > > hosts > > > > the > > > > > LCD module. Patches of scorched board and smears of useless > > solder > > > > > now litter the area where the 14 pins come through. I'm > > worried that > > > > > I may even have breached the integrity of on or two of the > > tracks. > > > > > > > > > > I guess this is what comes of impatiently trying to do a job > > > > > inadequately equipped. Just out of (probably purely academic > > by now) > > > > > interest what size soldering iron tip should I have attempted > > this > > > > > butchery with? Also are there any recognised techniques for > > cleaning > > > > > up a mess looking piece of board? With any luck it may just look > > > > > worse than it actually is. > > > > > > > > > > Forlornly, > > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > > > On 10 Feb 2008, at 10:00PM, mr julian wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > from the OP's datasheet, pins 15 and 16 are for an LED > > > > backlight...... > > > > > > > > > > > > so, yeah.. it's an LED backlight. No need for the backlight > > > > inverter > > > > > > module anymore. pull it out, too! > > > > > > > > > > > > Just wire 5V through a resistor (start with 6R8, assuming > > the LED > > > > > > load/current requirements are right in the datasheet) 1/2W > > > > resistor > > > > > > from > > > > > > to the "A" connection of the backlight, and wire the "K" > > > > connection to > > > > > > ground. > > > > > > The Emax shouldn't worry about another 120mA, on 5V, I > > imagine.... > > > > > > (not > > > > > > that I've ever tried, though!) > > > > > > > > > > > > The LED backlight power is a pretty simple thing - has anyone > > > > checked > > > > > > the data/control pins are in the right order on the old and > > the > > > > new > > > > > > module?? > > > > > > > > > > > > ted Summers wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > >Alan- > > > > > > > > > > > > > >The LCD must be soldered. I don't know if the system checks > > > > whether > > > > > > >the LCD is displaying or not. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]