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New Backlight - inverter problems

New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-14 by nelsonj_sce

Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from www.nightlaunch.com.

It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look good.  

Good news/bad news though on my backlight.  

The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board. 
Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things easier.

Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
"dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.

Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC. 
 
Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
it is good <=1kHz)
Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
much it will cost?

Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.

Re: [k5synth] New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-14 by jbrave

Glad you like it, wish I had more time to contribute to it myself, but I am
really happy that so many people are using it.

Joel
(Moderator)

> Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
>



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Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-15 by nelsonj_sce

Update:
Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested it is:

Digikey part #	289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.

I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
inverter so it might require some additional wiring.

Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue. 
So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
board and redo all the solder joints.  

Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.  

Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.

Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today).  



--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
www.nightlaunch.com.
> 
> It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
good.  
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Good news/bad news though on my backlight.  
> 
> The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
> backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
> wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
> the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board. 
> Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
> a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things easier.
> 
> Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
> "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.
> 
> Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC. 
>  
> Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
> it is good <=1kHz)
> Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> much it will cost?
> 
> Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.

Re: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-16 by Antoine Deschênes

The
higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.

ERG power has good inverters/choice, but the problem is to find a place 
to buy them(My local shop is the only one I know selling these inverter, 
but they sell them only in 12v. Inverters are like backlights, the more 
they have been used, the more they loose power(Yours lost 18!). Actually 
what is good with ERGs is that they apply more voltage over use so 
brightness stays there longer. My inverter is :( intermittent, first 
off, after PSU gets hot, starts. SOmetimes just don't start, sometimes 
works OK. The problem is cold solder joints in an epoxy and plastic case 
:(. My 12v one is shorter, so it doesn't fit in the 120v hole(Even if it 
takes 5v but is less bright). If some holes don't fit, drill some 
holes(not on prints if really big) and put wires.

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

> Update:
> Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
> inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested it is:
>
> Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
>
> I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
> inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
>
> Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
> inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
> have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue.
> So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
> board and redo all the solder joints. 
>
> Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
> lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
> For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
> it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
> higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
> backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
> trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
>
> Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
>
> Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
>
>
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> www.nightlaunch.com.
> >
> > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
> good. 
> >
> > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> >
> > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
> > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
> > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
> > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
> > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things easier.
> >
> > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
> > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.
> >
> > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > 
> > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
> > it is good <=1kHz)
> > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> > much it will cost?
> >
> > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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>
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-- 
antdes45@netscape.net

Re: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-16 by Antoine Deschênes

You're getting a 100v inverter. As I see, 120v is kind of rare(I've been 
told these things output 120, not 100).

antdes45@... a écrit:

> The
> higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.
>
> ERG power has good inverters/choice, but the problem is to find a 
> place to buy them(My local shop is the only one I know selling these 
> inverter, but they sell them only in 12v. Inverters are like 
> backlights, the more they have been used, the more they loose 
> power(Yours lost 18!). Actually what is good with ERGs is that they 
> apply more voltage over use so brightness stays there longer. My 
> inverter is :( intermittent, first off, after PSU gets hot, starts. 
> SOmetimes just don't start, sometimes works OK. The problem is cold 
> solder joints in an epoxy and plastic case :(. My 12v one is shorter, 
> so it doesn't fit in the 120v hole(Even if it takes 5v but is less 
> bright). If some holes don't fit, drill some holes(not on prints if 
> really big) and put wires.
>
> nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:
>
>> Update:
>> Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
>> inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested it is:
>>
>> Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
>>
>> I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
>> inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
>>
>> Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
>> inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
>> have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue.
>> So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
>> joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
>> board and redo all the solder joints. 
>>
>> Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
>> inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
>> voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
>> lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
>> For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
>> it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
>> higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
>> backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
>> trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
>>
>> Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
>> think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
>> should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
>>
>> Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
>> > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
>> www.nightlaunch.com.
>> >
>> > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
>> good. 
>> >
>> > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
>> >
>> > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
>> > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
>> > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
>> > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
>> > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
>> > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things easier.
>> >
>> > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
>> > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
>> > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
>> > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
>> > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
>> > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
>> > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.
>> >
>> > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
>> > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
>> > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
>> > 
>> > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
>> > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
>> > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
>> > it is good <=1kHz)
>> > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
>> > much it will cost?
>> >
>> > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
>>
>>
>
> -- 
> antdes45@netscape.net
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129g4s6al/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=grplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095384046/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://launch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301> 
>
>
>
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>
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>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
>        
>     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>

-- 
antdes45@...

Re: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-16 by Cindy and Nathan

Good information. My Nightlaunch backlight is still going strong on my other gear, and I suppose I should get one for my K5. First I will try the re-solder thing since the Kawai tech support guy told me the same thing. Can I find the inverter easily? Is is connected directly to the backlight?
Didobrain
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 11:57 PM
Subject: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

Update:
Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com. I found an
inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested it is:

Digikey part # 289-1032-ND and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.

I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
inverter so it might require some additional wiring.

Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
have a beautiful blue backlight. It looks great, a very cool blue.
So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
joints. It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
board and redo all the solder joints.

Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
inverters. The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
voltage and frequency applied to the backlight. It appears one has a
lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)! The
higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight. However, the
backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq. So there is a
trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.

Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz. I
think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.

Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today).



--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" wrote:
> Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
www.nightlaunch.com.
>
> It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
good.
>
> Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
>
> The good news: I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
> backlight and sliding in the new backlight. The new light has some
> wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
> the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
> a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things easier.
>
> Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> problem. I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> part correctly. I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
> "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.
>
> Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter. I can get an
> inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC. I
> understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
>
> Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
> it is good <=1kHz)
> Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> much it will cost?
>
> Thanks again for all the help. This group is great.


Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-16 by nelsonj_sce

It is very easy to find the inverter but it is not next to the
backlight.  It is a white box about 1.5"X.5"X1" in the right corner of
the K5 (as you are playing).  It is actually on the lid and it is next
to a bunch of blue capacitors.  

BE VERY VERY VERY CAREFUL because capacitors can be VERY dangerous.
(In some cases they can kill you!)

Make sure you unplug the K5 before doing anything.

You need to make sure the caps are discharged before you solder.  You
will have to take off three wire harness and take off six screws.  The
inverter has three solder points, and you need to resolder all three
points.  

AGAIN, you need to discharge the caps right after you take off the
power supply board.  It helps to test the voltage on the caps relative
to ground after you discharge them to make sure they are fully
discharged.  Caps have a way of getting "recharged" by their
neighbors. They should have 0V DC at both leads before you start doing
any solder work. 

I hate to be so paranoid but if you are not comfortable discharging
the caps DO NOT DO THIS REPAIR YOURSELF. It is just not worth getting
hurt just to have a backlight... (I think these all these caps charge
at a low voltage and should not be that dangerous, but without a
schematic I am just not certain and it is much better to be safe than
sorry on these things.)

Anyway, I did the resolder about 3 hours ago and so far things work
great.  I tried to remove as much of the old solder as I could, then I
applied globs of new solder.  It is nice to use my K5 in low light!

Good luck and be safe.


--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "Cindy and Nathan" <Cthane1@a...> wrote:
> Good information.  My Nightlaunch backlight is still going strong on
my other gear, and I suppose I should get one for my K5.  First I will
try the re-solder thing since the Kawai tech support guy told me the
same thing.  Can I find the inverter easily?  Is is connected directly
to the backlight?   
> Didobrain
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: nelsonj_sce 
>   To: k5synth@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 11:57 PM
>   Subject: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems
> 
> 
>   Update:
>   Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
>   inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested
it is:
> 
>   Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
> 
>   I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
>   inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> 
>   Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
>   inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
>   have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue. 
>   So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
>   joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
>   board and redo all the solder joints.  
> 
>   Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
>   inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
>   voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
>   lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
>   For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
>   it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
>   higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
>   backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
>   trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.  
> 
>   Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
>   think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
>   should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> 
>   Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today).  
> 
> 
> 
>   --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
wrote:
>   > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
>   www.nightlaunch.com.
>   > 
>   > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
>   good.  
>   > 
>   > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.  
>   > 
>   > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
the old
>   > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
>   > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
soldered
>   > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board. 
>   > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
backlight
>   > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
easier.
>   > 
>   > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
>   > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
>   > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
>   > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
>   > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
existing
>   > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
>   > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
voltage.
>   > 
>   > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
>   > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
>   > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC. 
>   >  
>   > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
>   > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
>   > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
>   > it is good <=1kHz)
>   > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
>   > much it will cost?
>   > 
>   > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> 
> 
>         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
>               ADVERTISEMENT
>              
>        
>        
> 
> 
>
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>       
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>     k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>       
>     c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.

Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-16 by nelsonj_sce

You wrote: "As I see, 120v is kind of rare(I've been told these things
output 120, not 100)"

The best I can tell the inverter voltage output is related to, among
other things, the surface area of the backlight.  The new backlight I
put in has a surface area that is noticeably larger than the old back-
light.  This might be part of the reason I am only getting about 108V.
     The K5 spec may be 120V as you were told, but my backlight is no
longer stock and my inverter is old!  :)


--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> You're getting a 100v inverter. .
> 
> antdes45@n... a écrit:
> 
> > The
> > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.
> >
> > ERG power has good inverters/choice, but the problem is to find a 
> > place to buy them(My local shop is the only one I know selling these 
> > inverter, but they sell them only in 12v. Inverters are like 
> > backlights, the more they have been used, the more they loose 
> > power(Yours lost 18!). Actually what is good with ERGs is that they 
> > apply more voltage over use so brightness stays there longer. My 
> > inverter is :( intermittent, first off, after PSU gets hot, starts. 
> > SOmetimes just don't start, sometimes works OK. The problem is cold 
> > solder joints in an epoxy and plastic case :(. My 12v one is shorter, 
> > so it doesn't fit in the 120v hole(Even if it takes 5v but is less 
> > bright). If some holes don't fit, drill some holes(not on prints if 
> > really big) and put wires.
> >
> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >
> >> Update:
> >> Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
> >> inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
interested it is:
> >>
> >> Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
> >>
> >> I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the
original
> >> inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> >>
> >> Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
> >> inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
> >> have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue.
> >> So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> >> joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take
out the
> >> board and redo all the solder joints. 
> >>
> >> Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> >> inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> >> voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
> >> lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
> >> For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
> >> it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!
 The
> >> higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
However, the
> >> backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
> >> trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> >>
> >> Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> >> think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> >> should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> >>
> >> Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
wrote:
> >> > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> >> www.nightlaunch.com.
> >> >
> >> > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
> >> good. 
> >> >
> >> > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> >> >
> >> > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
the old
> >> > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
> >> > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
soldered
> >> > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> >> > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
backlight
> >> > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
easier.
> >> >
> >> > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> >> > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> >> > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> >> > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> >> > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
existing
> >> > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> >> > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
voltage.
> >> >
> >> > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> >> > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> >> > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> >> > 
> >> > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> >> > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> >> > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke
says
> >> > it is good <=1kHz)
> >> > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> >> > much it will cost?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > -- 
> > antdes45@n...
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
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> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> >        
> >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> -- 
> antdes45@n...

Re: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems

2004-09-16 by Antoine Deschênes

Nichia box on mi-010 board near the plug on the top cover. Actually the 
highest voltage found in here is 24v, so caps are not a problem(And the 
only one with a big value works at less than 16v), they're dangerous in 
computer PSUs, power amps, TVs and other high voltage devices. The ones 
in the K5 can't do nothing to you(Or maybe a small 12v shock for 1/100 
sec but I'm not even sure 12vDC can give you a shock).


nelsonj_sce@... a \ufffdcrit:

> It is very easy to find the inverter but it is not next to the
> backlight.  It is a white box about 1.5"X.5"X1" in the right corner of
> the K5 (as you are playing).  It is actually on the lid and it is next
> to a bunch of blue capacitors. 
>
> BE VERY VERY VERY CAREFUL because capacitors can be VERY dangerous.
> (In some cases they can kill you!)
>
> Make sure you unplug the K5 before doing anything.
>
> You need to make sure the caps are discharged before you solder.  You
> will have to take off three wire harness and take off six screws.  The
> inverter has three solder points, and you need to resolder all three
> points. 
>
> AGAIN, you need to discharge the caps right after you take off the
> power supply board.  It helps to test the voltage on the caps relative
> to ground after you discharge them to make sure they are fully
> discharged.  Caps have a way of getting "recharged" by their
> neighbors. They should have 0V DC at both leads before you start doing
> any solder work.
>
> I hate to be so paranoid but if you are not comfortable discharging
> the caps DO NOT DO THIS REPAIR YOURSELF. It is just not worth getting
> hurt just to have a backlight... (I think these all these caps charge
> at a low voltage and should not be that dangerous, but without a
> schematic I am just not certain and it is much better to be safe than
> sorry on these things.)
>
> Anyway, I did the resolder about 3 hours ago and so far things work
> great.  I tried to remove as much of the old solder as I could, then I
> applied globs of new solder.  It is nice to use my K5 in low light!
>
> Good luck and be safe.
>
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "Cindy and Nathan" <Cthane1@a...> wrote:
> > Good information.  My Nightlaunch backlight is still going strong on
> my other gear, and I suppose I should get one for my K5.  First I will
> try the re-solder thing since the Kawai tech support guy told me the
> same thing.  Can I find the inverter easily?  Is is connected directly
> to the backlight?  
> > Didobrain
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: nelsonj_sce
> >   To: k5synth@yahoogroups.com
> >   Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 11:57 PM
> >   Subject: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight - inverter problems
> >
> >
> >   Update:
> >   Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
> >   inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested
> it is:
> >
> >   Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
> >
> >   I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
> >   inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> >
> >   Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
> >   inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
> >   have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue.
> >   So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> >   joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
> >   board and redo all the solder joints. 
> >
> >   Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> >   inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> >   voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
> >   lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
> >   For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
> >   it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
> >   higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
> >   backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
> >   trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> >
> >   Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> >   think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> >   should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> >
> >   Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> >
> >
> >
> >   --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> wrote:
> >   > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> >   www.nightlaunch.com.
> >   >
> >   > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
> >   good. 
> >   >
> >   > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> >   >
> >   > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
> the old
> >   > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
> >   > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
> soldered
> >   > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> >   > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
> backlight
> >   > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
> easier.
> >   >
> >   > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> >   > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> >   > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> >   > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> >   > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
> existing
> >   > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> >   > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
> voltage.
> >   >
> >   > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> >   > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> >   > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> >   > 
> >   > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> >   > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> >   > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
> >   > it is good <=1kHz)
> >   > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> >   > much it will cost?
> >   >
> >   > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> >
> >
> >         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >               ADVERTISEMENT
> >             
> >       
> >       
> >
> >
> >
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-- 

Antoine Desch\ufffdnes /aka
  -\ufffd\ufffd`-\ufffd-DragonMaster-\ufffd-\ufffd\ufffd`-
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files: http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/

Re: New Backlight/New Inverter - update

2004-09-22 by nelsonj_sce

Here is the latest, it is good news.

Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my backlight
with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my stock K5
inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even after I
did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock inverter with
the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good news is that
inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about 550Hz).  It
is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks great. 
Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!  

The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size as the
original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections (in - out -
ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.  Because
the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but I had
to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big deal but
it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures of my ugly
job.  :).  But so far so good.

Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone well.  My
K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now.  I have
been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is because
they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this with a better
op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and wire it
up to the K5.

Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30 delivered you
can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have a new
backlight that does not hum!  :)   

Now for the headphone amp...








--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> Update:
> Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
> inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested
it is:
> 
> Digikey part #	289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
> 
> I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
> inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> 
> Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
> inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
> have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue. 
> So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
> board and redo all the solder joints.  
> 
> Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
> lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
> For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
> it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
> higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
> backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
> trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.  
> 
> Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> 
> Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today).  
> 
> 
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> www.nightlaunch.com.
> > 
> > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
> good.  
> > 
> > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.  
> > 
> > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
> > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
> > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
> > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board. 
> > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
> > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
easier.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > 
> > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
> > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.
> > 
> > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC. 
> >  
> > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
> > it is good <=1kHz)
> > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> > much it will cost?
> > 
> > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.

Re: [k5synth] Re: New Backlight/New Inverter - update

2004-09-22 by Antoine Deschênes

The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the signal there 
will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. It's sharing 
the same ground for all the board(s).

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

> Here is the latest, it is good news.
>
> Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my backlight
> with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my stock K5
> inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even after I
> did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock inverter with
> the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good news is that
> inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about 550Hz).  It
> is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks great.
> Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
>
> The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size as the
> original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
> shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections (in - out -
> ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.  Because
> the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but I had
> to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big deal but
> it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures of my ugly
> job.  :).  But so far so good.
>
> Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone well.  My
> K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now.  I have
> been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is because
> they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
> headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this with a better
> op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
> their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and wire it
> up to the K5.
>
> Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30 delivered you
> can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have a new
> backlight that does not hum!  :)  
>
> Now for the headphone amp...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > Update:
> > Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I found an
> > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested
> it is:
> >
> > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
> >
> > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the original
> > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> >
> > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
> > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
> > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue.
> > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take out the
> > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> >
> > Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one has a
> > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and freq.
> > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by plugging
> > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the US)!  The
> > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.   However, the
> > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there is a
> > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> >
> > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> >
> > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > >
> > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
> > good. 
> > >
> > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > >
> > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out the old
> > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has some
> > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I soldered
> > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the backlight
> > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
> easier.
> > >
> > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter is the
> > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my existing
> > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low voltage.
> > >
> > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > 
> > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My Fluke says
> > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> > > much it will cost?
> > >
> > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=grplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://launch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301> 
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>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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>        
>     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>

-- 
antdes45@...

How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-09-23 by nelsonj_sce

It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and found that
the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the noisy
ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same ground?
Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane and
reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all the
analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the ground to
that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are there
just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that can be
rerouted to a seperate ground plane? 

Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even if I can
get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a few
key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate ground
for those parts.

Any thoughts?

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the signal
there 
> will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. It's
sharing 
> the same ground for all the board(s).
> 
> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> 
> > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> >
> > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my backlight
> > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my stock K5
> > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even after I
> > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock inverter with
> > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good news is that
> > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about 550Hz).  It
> > is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks great.
> > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
> >
> > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size as the
> > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
> > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections (in - out -
> > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.  Because
> > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but I had
> > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big deal but
> > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures of my ugly
> > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> >
> > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone well.  My
> > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now.  I have
> > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is because
> > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
> > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this with a better
> > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
> > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and wire it
> > up to the K5.
> >
> > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30 delivered you
> > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have a new
> > backlight that does not hum!  :)  
> >
> > Now for the headphone amp...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
wrote:
> > > Update:
> > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I
found an
> > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested
> > it is:
> > >
> > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not bad.
> > >
> > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the
original
> > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan the new
> > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what, I now
> > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool blue.
> > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take
out the
> > > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> > >
> > > Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one
has a
> > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and
freq.
> > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by
plugging
> > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the
US)!  The
> > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
However, the
> > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there
is a
> > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> > >
> > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > >
> > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
wrote:
> > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > >
> > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the parts look
> > > good. 
> > > >
> > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > > >
> > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
the old
> > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has
some
> > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
soldered
> > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
backlight
> > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
> > easier.
> > > >
> > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter
is the
> > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I understand the
> > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
existing
> > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was shorted.) I
> > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
voltage.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > 
> > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My
Fluke says
> > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter and how
> > > > much it will cost?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=g=
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://lau=
nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>

> >
> >
> >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> >        
> >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >       <mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
> >        
> >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> >
> >
> 
> -- 
> antdes45@n...

Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-09-30 by antdes45dragonmaster

Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and analog to
0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some low
volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is on
DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the schemes, and
every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground. Something
to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire going to
outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise). Might be
that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072 instead of
some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking, using
some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name on
DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4 times
in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good). 

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and found that
> the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the noisy
> ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same ground?
> Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane and
> reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all the
> analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the ground to
> that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are there
> just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that can be
> rerouted to a seperate ground plane? 
> 
> Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even if I can
> get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a few
> key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate ground
> for those parts.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the signal
> there 
> > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. It's
> sharing 
> > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > 
> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > 
> > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > >
> > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my backlight
> > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my stock K5
> > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even after I
> > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock inverter with
> > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good news
is that
> > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about 550Hz).  It
> > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks great.
> > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
> > >
> > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size
as the
> > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
> > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections (in - out -
> > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.  Because
> > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but
I had
> > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big deal but
> > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures of
my ugly
> > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > >
> > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
well.  My
> > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now.  I have
> > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is because
> > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
> > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this with a
better
> > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
> > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and wire it
> > > up to the K5.
> > >
> > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30 delivered you
> > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have a new
> > > backlight that does not hum!  :)  
> > >
> > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> wrote:
> > > > Update:
> > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I
> found an
> > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those interested
> > > it is:
> > > >
> > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not
bad.
> > > >
> > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the
> original
> > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan
the new
> > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what,
I now
> > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool
blue.
> > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad solder
> > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take
> out the
> > > > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> > > >
> > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching backlights and
> > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function of the
> > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one
> has a
> > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and
> freq.
> > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by
> plugging
> > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the
> US)!  The
> > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
> However, the
> > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there
> is a
> > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> > > >
> > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380 Hz.  I
> > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > >
> > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> wrote:
> > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > >
> > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
parts look
> > > > good. 
> > > > >
> > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > > > >
> > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
> the old
> > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has
> some
> > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
> soldered
> > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD board.
> > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
> backlight
> > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make things
> > > easier.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter
> is the
> > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
understand the
> > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the backlight
> > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
> existing
> > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
shorted.) I
> > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
> voltage.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V DC.  I
> > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left of the
> > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My
> Fluke says
> > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter
and how
> > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
>
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=g=
=
>
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://la=
u=
> nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> 
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> > >        
> > >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >      
<mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > >        
> > >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> > >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > -- 
> > antdes45@n...

Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-04 by nelsonj_sce

Hmm...I am going to have to get the schems from Kawai - I will also do
some research on how to filter a ground.  If the analog ground is
noisy the op-amps will by amping noise.  If the digital ground is
noisy, it is possible that the digital chips are actually producing
noise but they "think" they are just producing an accurate digital
signal.  

BTW, last night I replaced IC4 and IC1 (both 064D op-amps) with
Burr-Brown OPA4228.  These are super, super clean op-amps.  They did
improve things, but there is still a lot of noise even with these
great op-amps.  I have designed a headphone amp that uses an OPA4228
and I plan on replacing the LM386 nock off, but I have not built it
yet, I might get to it tonight.  But again I only expect a bit of
improvement because that ground noise will still be there.

Anyway, I have a nice blue backlight, I will soon have a nearly all
Burr-Brown amplification path (at least to my headphones).  If we can
just figure out a way to get the ground noise out, my K5 will look and
 sound killer.  

Must eliminate ground noise, must eliminate ground noise, must...  


--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and analog to
> 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some low
> volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is on
> DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the schemes, and
> every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground. Something
> to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire going to
> outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise). Might be
> that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072 instead of
> some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking, using
> some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name on
> DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4 times
> in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good). 
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and found that
> > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the noisy
> > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same ground?
> > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane and
> > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all the
> > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the ground to
> > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are there
> > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that can be
> > rerouted to a seperate ground plane? 
> > 
> > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even if I can
> > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a few
> > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate ground
> > for those parts.
> > 
> > Any thoughts?
> > 
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the signal
> > there 
> > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. It's
> > sharing 
> > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > 
> > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > 
> > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > >
> > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
backlight
> > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
stock K5
> > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
after I
> > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
inverter with
> > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good news
> is that
> > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
550Hz).  It
> > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks
great.
> > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
> > > >
> > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size
> as the
> > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
> > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections (in -
out -
> > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting. 
Because
> > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but
> I had
> > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
deal but
> > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures of
> my ugly
> > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > >
> > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> well.  My
> > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now. 
I have
> > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
because
> > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
> > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this with a
> better
> > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
> > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
wire it
> > > > up to the K5.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
delivered you
> > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have
a new
> > > > backlight that does not hum!  :)  
> > > >
> > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > Update:
> > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > found an
> > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
interested
> > > > it is:
> > > > >
> > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not
> bad.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the
> > original
> > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan
> the new
> > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what,
> I now
> > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool
> blue.
> > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
solder
> > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take
> > out the
> > > > > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> > > > >
> > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
backlights and
> > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function
of the
> > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one
> > has a
> > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and
> > freq.
> > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by
> > plugging
> > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the
> > US)!  The
> > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
> > However, the
> > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there
> > is a
> > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> > > > >
> > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380
Hz.  I
> > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > >
> > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> parts look
> > > > > good. 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
> > the old
> > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has
> > some
> > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
> > soldered
> > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD
board.
> > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
> > backlight
> > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
things
> > > > easier.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter
> > is the
> > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> understand the
> > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
backlight
> > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
> > existing
> > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> shorted.) I
> > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
> > voltage.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
DC.  I
> > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left
of the
> > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My
> > Fluke says
> > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter
> and how
> > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> >
>
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=g=
> =
> >
>
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://la=
> u=
> > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> > 
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> > > >        
> > > >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >      
> <mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
> > > >        
> > > >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> > > >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > 
> > > -- 
> > > antdes45@n...

Re: [k5synth] Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-05 by Cindy and Nathan

Good information, I enjoyed reading it.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 8:31 PM
Subject: [k5synth] Re: How to fix a noisy ground?


Hmm...I am going to have to get the schems from Kawai - I will also do
some research on how to filter a ground. If the analog ground is
noisy the op-amps will by amping noise. If the digital ground is
noisy, it is possible that the digital chips are actually producing
noise but they "think" they are just producing an accurate digital
signal.

BTW, last night I replaced IC4 and IC1 (both 064D op-amps) with
Burr-Brown OPA4228. These are super, super clean op-amps. They did
improve things, but there is still a lot of noise even with these
great op-amps. I have designed a headphone amp that uses an OPA4228
and I plan on replacing the LM386 nock off, but I have not built it
yet, I might get to it tonight. But again I only expect a bit of
improvement because that ground noise will still be there.

Anyway, I have a nice blue backlight, I will soon have a nearly all
Burr-Brown amplification path (at least to my headphones). If we can
just figure out a way to get the ground noise out, my K5 will look and
sound killer.

Must eliminate ground noise, must eliminate ground noise, must...


--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
wrote:
> Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and analog to
> 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some low
> volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is on
> DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the schemes, and
> every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground. Something
> to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire going to
> outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise). Might be
> that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072 instead of
> some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking, using
> some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name on
> DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4 times
> in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good).
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" wrote:
> > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and found that
> > the noise is still there. Have you tried anythink to fix the noisy
> > ground? Is it that the digital and analog all share the same ground?
> > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane and
> > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane? Are all the
> > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the ground to
> > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground? Are there
> > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that can be
> > rerouted to a seperate ground plane?
> >
> > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem? Even if I can
> > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a few
> > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate ground
> > for those parts.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
wrote:
> > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the signal
> > there
> > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. It's
> > sharing
> > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > >
> > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > >
> > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > >
> > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey. As below I replaced my
backlight
> > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch. It worked with my
stock K5
> > > > inverter. However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
after I
> > > >; did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
inverter with
> > > > the DigiKey part. (Digikey part #289-1032-ND). The good news
> is that
> > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
550Hz). It
> > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks
great.
> > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!
> > > >
> > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size
> as the
> > >; > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
> > > > shorter. The stock inverter has only three connections (in -
out -
> > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.
Because
> > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but
> I had
> > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
deal but
> > > > it is some extra work - and you don't want to see pictures of
> my ugly
> > > > job. :). But so far so good.
> > >; >
> > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> well. My
> > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now.
I have
> > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
because
> > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
> > > > headphone amp. I am trying to see if I can replace this with a
> better
> >; > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
> > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
wire it
> > > > up to the K5.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
delivered you
> > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have
a new
> > > > backlight that does not hum! :)
> > > >
> > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> >; > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> > wrote:
> > > > > Update:
> > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com. I
> > found an
> > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
interested
> > > > it is:
> > > > >
> > > > > Digikey part # ; 289-1032-ND and it only cost $11.90 - not
> bad.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the
> > original
> > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan
> the new
> > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what,
> I now
> > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight. It looks great, a very cool
> blue.
> > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
solder
> > > > > joints. It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take
> > out the
> > > > > board and redo all the solder joints.
> > > > >
> > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
backlights and
> > > > > inverters. The "brightness" of the backlight is a function
of the
> > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight. It appears one
> > has a
> > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and
> > freq.
> > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by
> > plugging
> > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the
> > US)! The
> > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.
> > However, the
> > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq. So there
> > is a
> > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.
> > > > >
> > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380
Hz. I
> > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > >
> > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today).
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> >; wrote:
> > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> parts look
> > > > > good.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The good news: I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
> > the old
> > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight. The new light has
> > some
> > >; > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
> > soldered
> > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD
board.
> > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
> > backlight
> > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
things
> > > > easier.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter
> > is the
> > > > > > problem. I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> understand the
> > > > > > part correctly. I tested my inverter before I did the
backlight
> > > > >; > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
> > existing
> > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> shorted.) I
> > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
> > voltage.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter. I can get an
> > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
DC. I
> > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left
of the
> > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My
> > Fluke says
> > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter
> and how
> > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks again for all the help. This group is great.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> >
>
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=g=
> =
> >
>
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://la=
> u=
> > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>; > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > > * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> > > >
> > > > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
>
> > > >;
> > > > ; * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> > > > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > antdes45@n...



Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-05 by nelsonj_sce

Antdes,
Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good news is
that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck.  Today
I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so hopefully,
once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
reduce the ground noise.

I did read something today that said that, although you should have
separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject noise in to
the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is going on
in the K5.  

Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground directly
to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the power
supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D ground,
but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
this is an easy move.

Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to try. 
(Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it works!)

Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out. 

       



--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and analog to
> 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some low
> volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is on
> DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the schemes, and
> every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground. Something
> to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire going to
> outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise). Might be
> that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072 instead of
> some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking, using
> some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name on
> DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4 times
> in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good). 
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and found that
> > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the noisy
> > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same ground?
> > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane and
> > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all the
> > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the ground to
> > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are there
> > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that can be
> > rerouted to a seperate ground plane? 
> > 
> > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even if I can
> > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a few
> > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate ground
> > for those parts.
> > 
> > Any thoughts?
> > 
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the signal
> > there 
> > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. It's
> > sharing 
> > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > 
> > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > 
> > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > >
> > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
backlight
> > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
stock K5
> > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
after I
> > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
inverter with
> > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good news
> is that
> > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
550Hz).  It
> > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still looks
great.
> > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
> > > >
> > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same size
> as the
> > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a lot
> > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections (in -
out -
> > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting. 
Because
> > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for the "out", but
> I had
> > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
deal but
> > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures of
> my ugly
> > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > >
> > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> well.  My
> > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise now. 
I have
> > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
because
> > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for the
> > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this with a
> better
> > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just bypass
> > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
wire it
> > > > up to the K5.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
delivered you
> > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and have
a new
> > > > backlight that does not hum!  :)  
> > > >
> > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > Update:
> > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > found an
> > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
interested
> > > > it is:
> > > > >
> > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 - not
> bad.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as the
> > original
> > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to plan
> the new
> > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess what,
> I now
> > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very cool
> blue.
> > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
solder
> > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely take
> > out the
> > > > > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> > > > >
> > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
backlights and
> > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a function
of the
> > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It appears one
> > has a
> > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output voltage and
> > freq.
> > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight by
> > plugging
> > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in the
> > US)!  The
> > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
> > However, the
> > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  So there
> > is a
> > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> > > > >
> > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 380
Hz.  I
> > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 Hz and
> > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > >
> > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey today). 
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> parts look
> > > > > good. 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, taking out
> > the old
> > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new light has
> > some
> > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, so I
> > soldered
> > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the LCD
board.
> > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make the
> > backlight
> > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
things
> > > > easier.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my inverter
> > is the
> > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the output of my
> > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> understand the
> > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
backlight
> > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping that my
> > existing
> > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> shorted.) I
> > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get very low
> > voltage.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can get an
> > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
DC.  I
> > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the left
of the
> > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? (My
> > Fluke says
> > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 inverter
> and how
> > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> >
>
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.2248467/D=g=
> =
> >
>
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http://la=
> u=
> > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> > 
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> > > >        
> > > >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >      
> <mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
> > > >        
> > > >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> > > >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > 
> > > -- 
> > > antdes45@n...

Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-07 by antdes45dragonmaster

Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have sepparate 
analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> 
wrote:
> 
> Antdes,
> Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good news is
> that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
> everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
> same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck.  
Today
> I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so hopefully,
> once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
> reduce the ground noise.
> 
> I did read something today that said that, although you should have
> separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
> grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject noise in 
to
> the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is going 
on
> in the K5.  
> 
> Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
> ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground 
directly
> to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the power
> supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D ground,
> but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
> this is an easy move.
> 
> Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
> schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to 
try. 
> (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it 
works!)
> 
> Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out. 
> 
>        
> 
> 
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" 
<antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and 
analog to
> > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some 
low
> > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is 
on
> > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the 
schemes, and
> > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> > mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground. 
Something
> > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire 
going to
> > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise). 
Might be
> > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072 
instead of
> > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking, 
using
> > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name 
on
> > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4 
times
> > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good). 
> > 
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> 
wrote:
> > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and 
found that
> > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the 
noisy
> > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same 
ground?
> > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane 
and
> > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all 
the
> > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the 
ground to
> > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are 
there
> > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that 
can be
> > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane? 
> > > 
> > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even 
if I can
> > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a 
few
> > > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate 
ground
> > > for those parts.
> > > 
> > > Any thoughts?
> > > 
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes 
<antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the 
signal
> > > there 
> > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. 
It's
> > > sharing 
> > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > > 
> > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > > 
> > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > > >
> > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
> backlight
> > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
> stock K5
> > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
> after I
> > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
> inverter with
> > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good 
news
> > is that
> > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
> 550Hz).  It
> > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still 
looks
> great.
> > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
> > > > >
> > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same 
size
> > as the
> > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a 
lot
> > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections 
(in -
> out -
> > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting. 
> Because
> > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for 
the "out", but
> > I had
> > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
> deal but
> > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures 
of
> > my ugly
> > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> > well.  My
> > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise 
now. 
> I have
> > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
> because
> > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for 
the
> > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this 
with a
> > better
> > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just 
bypass
> > > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
> wire it
> > > > > up to the K5.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
> delivered you
> > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and 
have
> a new
> > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :)  
> > > > >
> > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" 
<nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > Update:
> > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from 
www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > > found an
> > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
> interested
> > > > > it is:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 -
 not
> > bad.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as 
the
> > > original
> > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to 
plan
> > the new
> > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess 
what,
> > I now
> > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very 
cool
> > blue.
> > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
> solder
> > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely 
take
> > > out the
> > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
> backlights and
> > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a 
function
> of the
> > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It 
appears one
> > > has a
> > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output 
voltage and
> > > freq.
> > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight 
by
> > > plugging
> > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in 
the
> > > US)!  The
> > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
> > > However, the
> > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  
So there
> > > is a
> > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 
380
> Hz.  I
> > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 
Hz and
> > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey 
today). 
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" 
<nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> > parts look
> > > > > > good. 
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, 
taking out
> > > the old
> > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new 
light has
> > > some
> > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, 
so I
> > > soldered
> > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the 
LCD
> board.
> > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make 
the
> > > backlight
> > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
> things
> > > > > easier.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my 
inverter
> > > is the
> > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the 
output of my
> > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> > understand the
> > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
> backlight
> > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping 
that my
> > > existing
> > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> > shorted.) I
> > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get 
very low
> > > voltage.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can 
get an
> > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
> DC.  I
> > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the 
left
> of the
> > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? 
(My
> > > Fluke says
> > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 
inverter
> > and how
> > > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > > >
> > >
> >
> 
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.224846
7/D=g=
> > =
> > >
> >
> 
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
://la=
> > u=
> > > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> > > 
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > > >
> > > > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > > >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> > > > >        
> > > > >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > >      
> > <mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
> > > > >        
> > > > >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! 
Terms of
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > > > >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > 
> > > > -- 
> > > > antdes45@n...

Re: [k5synth] Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-07 by Antoine Deschênes

Note: Digital ground is on bridge neg. and Analog on 0v, and bridge goes 
to the transformer, so it's connected together in a kind of way.

antdes45@netscape.net a écrit:

>
> Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have sepparate
> analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Antdes,
> > Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good news is
> > that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
> > everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
> > same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck. 
> Today
> > I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so hopefully,
> > once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
> > reduce the ground noise.
> >
> > I did read something today that said that, although you should have
> > separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
> > grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject noise in
> to
> > the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is going
> on
> > in the K5. 
> >
> > Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
> > ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground
> directly
> > to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the power
> > supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D ground,
> > but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
> > this is an easy move.
> >
> > Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
> > schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to
> try.
> > (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it
> works!)
> >
> > Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out.
> >
> >       
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
> <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and
> analog to
> > > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> > > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some
> low
> > > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is
> on
> > > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the
> schemes, and
> > > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> > > mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> > > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground.
> Something
> > > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire
> going to
> > > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> > > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise).
> Might be
> > > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> > > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072
> instead of
> > > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking,
> using
> > > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name
> on
> > > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4
> times
> > > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good).
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> wrote:
> > > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and
> found that
> > > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the
> noisy
> > > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same
> ground?
> > > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane
> and
> > > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all
> the
> > > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the
> ground to
> > > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are
> there
> > > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that
> can be
> > > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane?
> > > >
> > > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even
> if I can
> > > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a
> few
> > > > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate
> ground
> > > > for those parts.
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
> <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the
> signal
> > > > there
> > > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground.
> It's
> > > > sharing
> > > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > > >
> > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
> > backlight
> > > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
> > stock K5
> > > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
> > after I
> > > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
> > inverter with
> > > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good
> news
> > > is that
> > > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
> > 550Hz).  It
> > > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still
> looks
> > great.
> > > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same
> size
> > > as the
> > > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a
> lot
> > > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections
> (in -
> > out -
> > > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.
> > Because
> > > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for
> the "out", but
> > > I had
> > > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
> > deal but
> > > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures
> of
> > > my ugly
> > > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> > > well.  My
> > > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise
> now.
> > I have
> > > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
> > because
> > > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for
> the
> > > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this
> with a
> > > better
> > > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just
> bypass
> > > > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
> > wire it
> > > > > > up to the K5.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
> > delivered you
> > > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and
> have
> > a new
> > > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :) 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Update:
> > > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from
> www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > > > found an
> > > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
> > interested
> > > > > > it is:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 -
> not
> > > bad.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as
> the
> > > > original
> > > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to
> plan
> > > the new
> > > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess
> what,
> > > I now
> > > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very
> cool
> > > blue.
> > > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
> > solder
> > > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely
> take
> > > > out the
> > > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
> > backlights and
> > > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a
> function
> > of the
> > > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It
> appears one
> > > > has a
> > > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output
> voltage and
> > > > freq.
> > > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight
> by
> > > > plugging
> > > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in
> the
> > > > US)!  The
> > > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight. 
> > > > However, the
> > > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq. 
> So there
> > > > is a
> > > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @
> 380
> > Hz.  I
> > > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540
> Hz and
> > > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey
> today).
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> > > parts look
> > > > > > > good.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD,
> taking out
> > > > the old
> > > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new
> light has
> > > > some
> > > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way,
> so I
> > > > soldered
> > > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the
> LCD
> > board.
> > > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make
> the
> > > > backlight
> > > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
> > things
> > > > > > easier.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my
> inverter
> > > > is the
> > > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the
> output of my
> > > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> > > understand the
> > > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
> > backlight
> > > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping
> that my
> > > > existing
> > > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> > > shorted.) I
> > > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get
> very low
> > > > voltage.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can
> get an
> > > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
> > DC.  I
> > > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the
> left
> > of the
> > > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working?
> (My
> > > > Fluke says
> > > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5
> inverter
> > > and how
> > > > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
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> 7/D=g=
> > > =
> > > >
> > >
> >
> rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
> ://la=
> > > u=
> > > > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
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> > > > > >
> > > > > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> > > > > >       
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> > > > > >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > >     
> > > <mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
> > > > > >       
> > > > > >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> Terms of
> > > > > >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > antdes45@n...
>
>
>
>
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-- 
antdes45@...

Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-09 by nelsonj_sce

I got the schems yesterday and I will take a look at the ground issue.    
Although all grounds will eventually get to a single point, one idea
is to make sure the D and A get to the same ground at the same time -
that is make sure there is no path between the A and D grounds. 
Anyway, I will try to look at the schems this weekend.

I also just upgraded to OS1.2.  I am a bit disappointed that the
Kfuenf editor still does not work for me.  Oh well, more on that in my
next post.  

Also, I hooked up my J-station to the K5.  The J-station has a very
good noise gate, as well as delay+reverb+chorus(ect).  I have to crank
the noise gate up to about 65 to kill the line noise.  But the K5
sounds great through this unit and I recommend it if you happen to
have a J-station around. 
--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have sepparate 
> analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > Antdes,
> > Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good news is
> > that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
> > everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
> > same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck.  
> Today
> > I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so hopefully,
> > once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
> > reduce the ground noise.
> > 
> > I did read something today that said that, although you should have
> > separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
> > grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject noise in 
> to
> > the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is going 
> on
> > in the K5.  
> > 
> > Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
> > ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground 
> directly
> > to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the power
> > supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D ground,
> > but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
> > this is an easy move.
> > 
> > Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
> > schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to 
> try. 
> > (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it 
> works!)
> > 
> > Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out. 
> > 
> >        
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" 
> <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and 
> analog to
> > > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> > > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some 
> low
> > > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is 
> on
> > > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the 
> schemes, and
> > > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> > > mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> > > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground. 
> Something
> > > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire 
> going to
> > > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> > > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise). 
> Might be
> > > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> > > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072 
> instead of
> > > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking, 
> using
> > > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name 
> on
> > > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4 
> times
> > > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good). 
> > > 
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> 
> wrote:
> > > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and 
> found that
> > > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the 
> noisy
> > > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same 
> ground?
> > > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane 
> and
> > > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all 
> the
> > > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the 
> ground to
> > > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are 
> there
> > > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that 
> can be
> > > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane? 
> > > > 
> > > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even 
> if I can
> > > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a 
> few
> > > > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate 
> ground
> > > > for those parts.
> > > > 
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > > > 
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes 
> <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the 
> signal
> > > > there 
> > > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground. 
> It's
> > > > sharing 
> > > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > > > 
> > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > > > 
> > > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
> > backlight
> > > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
> > stock K5
> > > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
> > after I
> > > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
> > inverter with
> > > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good 
> news
> > > is that
> > > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
> > 550Hz).  It
> > > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still 
> looks
> > great.
> > > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM! 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same 
> size
> > > as the
> > > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a 
> lot
> > > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections 
> (in -
> > out -
> > > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting. 
> > Because
> > > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for 
> the "out", but
> > > I had
> > > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
> > deal but
> > > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures 
> of
> > > my ugly
> > > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> > > well.  My
> > > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise 
> now. 
> > I have
> > > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
> > because
> > > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for 
> the
> > > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this 
> with a
> > > better
> > > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just 
> bypass
> > > > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
> > wire it
> > > > > > up to the K5.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
> > delivered you
> > > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and 
> have
> > a new
> > > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :)  
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" 
> <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Update:
> > > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from 
> www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > > > found an
> > > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
> > interested
> > > > > > it is:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 -
>  not
> > > bad.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as 
> the
> > > > original
> > > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to 
> plan
> > > the new
> > > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess 
> what,
> > > I now
> > > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very 
> cool
> > > blue.
> > > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
> > solder
> > > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely 
> take
> > > > out the
> > > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints. 
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
> > backlights and
> > > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a 
> function
> > of the
> > > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It 
> appears one
> > > > has a
> > > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output 
> voltage and
> > > > freq.
> > > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight 
> by
> > > > plugging
> > > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in 
> the
> > > > US)!  The
> > > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.  
> > > > However, the
> > > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.  
> So there
> > > > is a
> > > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life. 
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @ 
> 380
> > Hz.  I
> > > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540 
> Hz and
> > > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey 
> today). 
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" 
> <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> > > parts look
> > > > > > > good. 
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight. 
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD, 
> taking out
> > > > the old
> > > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new 
> light has
> > > > some
> > > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way, 
> so I
> > > > soldered
> > > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the 
> LCD
> > board.
> > > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make 
> the
> > > > backlight
> > > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
> > things
> > > > > > easier.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my 
> inverter
> > > > is the
> > > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the 
> output of my
> > > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> > > understand the
> > > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
> > backlight
> > > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping 
> that my
> > > > existing
> > > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> > > shorted.) I
> > > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get 
> very low
> > > > voltage.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can 
> get an
> > > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
> > DC.  I
> > > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the 
> left
> > of the
> > > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working? 
> (My
> > > > Fluke says
> > > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5 
> inverter
> > > and how
> > > > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > 
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> 7/D=g=
> > > =
> > > >
> > >
> > 
> rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
> ://la=
> > > u=
> > > > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> > > > 
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
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> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > 
> > > > > -- 
> > > > > antdes45@n...

Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-09 by kjtkfuenf

Hi Jeffrey,

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> 
> I am a bit disappointed that the
> Kfuenf editor still does not work for me.  

If you send an email directly to me, describing your problems, maybe i
can send a debug version to you to get more information about the
problems.

The complete rewrite of the rcv/xmt section of the Librarian is
ongoing  with Java JDK1.5 and the next version will have a better
control section with setting parameters for users with timing problems.

Klaus

Re: [k5synth] Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-09 by Antoine Deschênes

My MQX-32M(MusicQuest) shows up as a \ufffd{\u0425=\ufffd\ufffd^or something like this in 
the kfuenf editor, while the SBLive S/W synth and joystick ports are 
OK(The A and B SB synth are also strange characters).

developer@... a \ufffdcrit:

>
> Hi Jeffrey,
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> >
> > I am a bit disappointed that the
> > Kfuenf editor still does not work for me. 
>
> If you send an email directly to me, describing your problems, maybe i
> can send a debug version to you to get more information about the
> problems.
>
> The complete rewrite of the rcv/xmt section of the Librarian is
> ongoing  with Java JDK1.5 and the next version will have a better
> control section with setting parameters for users with timing problems.
>
> Klaus
>
>
>
>
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-- 

Antoine Desch\ufffdnes /aka
  -\ufffd\ufffd`-\ufffd-DragonMaster-\ufffd-\ufffd\ufffd`-
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files: http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/

Re: [k5synth] Re: How to fix a noisy ground?

2004-10-09 by Antoine Deschênes

Mine's not at -65 but at -47 dB with the TL072.

nelsonj_sce@... a \ufffdcrit:

>
> I got the schems yesterday and I will take a look at the ground issue.   
> Although all grounds will eventually get to a single point, one idea
> is to make sure the D and A get to the same ground at the same time -
> that is make sure there is no path between the A and D grounds.
> Anyway, I will try to look at the schems this weekend.
>
> I also just upgraded to OS1.2.  I am a bit disappointed that the
> Kfuenf editor still does not work for me.  Oh well, more on that in my
> next post. 
>
> Also, I hooked up my J-station to the K5.  The J-station has a very
> good noise gate, as well as delay+reverb+chorus(ect).  I have to crank
> the noise gate up to about 65 to kill the line noise.  But the K5
> sounds great through this unit and I recommend it if you happen to
> have a J-station around.
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have sepparate
> > analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Antdes,
> > > Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good news is
> > > that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
> > > everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
> > > same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck. 
> > Today
> > > I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so hopefully,
> > > once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
> > > reduce the ground noise.
> > >
> > > I did read something today that said that, although you should have
> > > separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
> > > grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject noise in
> > to
> > > the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is going
> > on
> > > in the K5. 
> > >
> > > Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
> > > ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground
> > directly
> > > to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the power
> > > supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D ground,
> > > but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
> > > this is an easy move.
> > >
> > > Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
> > > schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to
> > try.
> > > (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it
> > works!)
> > >
> > > Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out.
> > >
> > >       
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
> > <antdes45@n...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and
> > analog to
> > > > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy ground
> > > > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear some
> > low
> > > > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter whines(Is
> > on
> > > > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the
> > schemes, and
> > > > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> > > > mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> > > > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground.
> > Something
> > > > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire
> > going to
> > > > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> > > > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise).
> > Might be
> > > > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear outputs
> > > > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072
> > instead of
> > > > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking,
> > using
> > > > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the name
> > on
> > > > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4
> > times
> > > > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good).
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and
> > found that
> > > > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the
> > noisy
> > > > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same
> > ground?
> > > > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane
> > and
> > > > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?  Are all
> > the
> > > > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the
> > ground to
> > > > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are
> > there
> > > > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that
> > can be
> > > > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane?
> > > > >
> > > > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even
> > if I can
> > > > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can identify a
> > few
> > > > > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate
> > ground
> > > > > for those parts.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any thoughts?
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
> > <antdes45@n...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the
> > signal
> > > > > there
> > > > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground.
> > It's
> > > > > sharing
> > > > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
> > > backlight
> > > > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
> > > stock K5
> > > > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey, even
> > > after I
> > > > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
> > > inverter with
> > > > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good
> > news
> > > > is that
> > > > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
> > > 550Hz).  It
> > > > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still
> > looks
> > > great.
> > > > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same
> > size
> > > > as the
> > > > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a
> > lot
> > > > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections
> > (in -
> > > out -
> > > > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for mounting.
> > > Because
> > > > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for
> > the "out", but
> > > > I had
> > > > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not a big
> > > deal but
> > > > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see pictures
> > of
> > > > my ugly
> > > > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to have gone
> > > > well.  My
> > > > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise
> > now.
> > > I have
> > > > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone noise is
> > > because
> > > > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for
> > the
> > > > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this
> > with a
> > > > better
> > > > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to just
> > bypass
> > > > > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone amp and
> > > wire it
> > > > > > > up to the K5.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
> > > delivered you
> > > > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and
> > have
> > > a new
> > > > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :) 
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > Update:
> > > > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from
> > www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > > > > found an
> > > > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
> > > interested
> > > > > > > it is:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost $11.90 -
> >  not
> > > > bad.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same slots as
> > the
> > > > > original
> > > > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to
> > plan
> > > > the new
> > > > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess
> > what,
> > > > I now
> > > > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very
> > cool
> > > > blue.
> > > > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just has bad
> > > solder
> > > > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will likely
> > take
> > > > > out the
> > > > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
> > > backlights and
> > > > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a
> > function
> > > of the
> > > > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It
> > appears one
> > > > > has a
> > > > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output
> > voltage and
> > > > > freq.
> > > > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the backlight
> > by
> > > > > plugging
> > > > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in
> > the
> > > > > US)!  The
> > > > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight. 
> > > > > However, the
> > > > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq. 
> > So there
> > > > > is a
> > > > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @
> > 380
> > > Hz.  I
> > > > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V @ 540
> > Hz and
> > > > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey
> > today).
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered and the
> > > > parts look
> > > > > > > > good.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD,
> > taking out
> > > > > the old
> > > > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new
> > light has
> > > > > some
> > > > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the way,
> > so I
> > > > > soldered
> > > > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the
> > LCD
> > > board.
> > > > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so make
> > the
> > > > > backlight
> > > > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original to make
> > > things
> > > > > > > easier.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my
> > inverter
> > > > > is the
> > > > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the
> > output of my
> > > > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> > > > understand the
> > > > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
> > > backlight
> > > > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping
> > that my
> > > > > existing
> > > > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> > > > shorted.) I
> > > > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get
> > very low
> > > > > voltage.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.  I can
> > get an
> > > > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it needs 9V
> > > DC.  I
> > > > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the
> > left
> > > of the
> > > > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working?
> > (My
> > > > > Fluke says
> > > > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5
> > inverter
> > > > and how
> > > > > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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> > 7/D=g=
> > > > =
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
> > ://la=
> > > > u=
> > > > > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------------
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  -\ufffd\ufffd`-\ufffd-DragonMaster-\ufffd-\ufffd\ufffd`-
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files: http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/

Notes on Schems...

2004-10-15 by nelsonj_sce

Antdes,
I just wanted to compare some notes on the schems.  I have not had a
chance to dig too deep yet but I want to see if you reached some of
the same conclusions I have on some of the notation...
1) Many connectors have both "AG" and "DG".  Based on my quick look
this seems to mean Analog Ground (AG) and Digital Ground (DG).  Do you
agree?  In general something like "+A6" means "analog 6 Volts"

2) It looks like the schems have a slightly different symbol for the
AG and DG.  The AG ground looks like a horizontal line with three
vertical swipes under it where as the DG has a more traditional symbol
for ground.  Do you agree?

The first thing I want to try is to directly connect all of the AG and
DG cables to a single ground at the same place.  By any chance, have
you tried that yet?  

Anyway, I think I have decoded the schems but I never hurts to compare
notes. Thanks. 
   

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> Mine's not at -65 but at -47 dB with the TL072.
> 
> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> 
> >
> > I got the schems yesterday and I will take a look at the ground
issue.   
> > Although all grounds will eventually get to a single point, one idea
> > is to make sure the D and A get to the same ground at the same time -
> > that is make sure there is no path between the A and D grounds.
> > Anyway, I will try to look at the schems this weekend.
> >
> > I also just upgraded to OS1.2.  I am a bit disappointed that the
> > Kfuenf editor still does not work for me.  Oh well, more on that in my
> > next post. 
> >
> > Also, I hooked up my J-station to the K5.  The J-station has a very
> > good noise gate, as well as delay+reverb+chorus(ect).  I have to crank
> > the noise gate up to about 65 to kill the line noise.  But the K5
> > sounds great through this unit and I recommend it if you happen to
> > have a J-station around.
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have sepparate
> > > analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Antdes,
> > > > Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good
news is
> > > > that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
> > > > everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
> > > > same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck. 
> > > Today
> > > > I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so
hopefully,
> > > > once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
> > > > reduce the ground noise.
> > > >
> > > > I did read something today that said that, although you should
have
> > > > separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
> > > > grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject
noise in
> > > to
> > > > the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is
going
> > > on
> > > > in the K5. 
> > > >
> > > > Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
> > > > ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground
> > > directly
> > > > to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the
power
> > > > supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D
ground,
> > > > but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
> > > > this is an easy move.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
> > > > schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to
> > > try.
> > > > (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it
> > > works!)
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out.
> > > >
> > > >       
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
> > > <antdes45@n...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and
> > > analog to
> > > > > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy
ground
> > > > > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear
some
> > > low
> > > > > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter
whines(Is
> > > on
> > > > > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the
> > > schemes, and
> > > > > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
> > > > > mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
> > > > > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground.
> > > Something
> > > > > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire
> > > going to
> > > > > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
> > > > > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise).
> > > Might be
> > > > > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear
outputs
> > > > > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072
> > > instead of
> > > > > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking,
> > > using
> > > > > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the
name
> > > on
> > > > > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4
> > > times
> > > > > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good).
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and
> > > found that
> > > > > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the
> > > noisy
> > > > > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same
> > > ground?
> > > > > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane
> > > and
> > > > > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane? 
Are all
> > > the
> > > > > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the
> > > ground to
> > > > > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are
> > > there
> > > > > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that
> > > can be
> > > > > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even
> > > if I can
> > > > > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can
identify a
> > > few
> > > > > > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate
> > > ground
> > > > > > for those parts.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any thoughts?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
> > > <antdes45@n...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the
> > > signal
> > > > > > there
> > > > > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground.
> > > It's
> > > > > > sharing
> > > > > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
> > > > backlight
> > > > > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
> > > > stock K5
> > > > > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey,
even
> > > > after I
> > > > > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
> > > > inverter with
> > > > > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good
> > > news
> > > > > is that
> > > > > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
> > > > 550Hz).  It
> > > > > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still
> > > looks
> > > > great.
> > > > > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same
> > > size
> > > > > as the
> > > > > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a
> > > lot
> > > > > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections
> > > (in -
> > > > out -
> > > > > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for
mounting.
> > > > Because
> > > > > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for
> > > the "out", but
> > > > > I had
> > > > > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not
a big
> > > > deal but
> > > > > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see
pictures
> > > of
> > > > > my ugly
> > > > > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to
have gone
> > > > > well.  My
> > > > > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise
> > > now.
> > > > I have
> > > > > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone
noise is
> > > > because
> > > > > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for
> > > the
> > > > > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this
> > > with a
> > > > > better
> > > > > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to
just
> > > bypass
> > > > > > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone
amp and
> > > > wire it
> > > > > > > > up to the K5.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
> > > > delivered you
> > > > > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and
> > > have
> > > > a new
> > > > > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :) 
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> > > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Update:
> > > > > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from
> > > www.DigiKey.com.  I
> > > > > > found an
> > > > > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
> > > > interested
> > > > > > > > it is:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost
$11.90 -
> > >  not
> > > > > bad.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same
slots as
> > > the
> > > > > > original
> > > > > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to
> > > plan
> > > > > the new
> > > > > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess
> > > what,
> > > > > I now
> > > > > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very
> > > cool
> > > > > blue.
> > > > > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just
has bad
> > > > solder
> > > > > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will
likely
> > > take
> > > > > > out the
> > > > > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
> > > > backlights and
> > > > > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a
> > > function
> > > > of the
> > > > > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It
> > > appears one
> > > > > > has a
> > > > > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output
> > > voltage and
> > > > > > freq.
> > > > > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the
backlight
> > > by
> > > > > > plugging
> > > > > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in
> > > the
> > > > > > US)!  The
> > > > > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight. 
> > > > > > However, the
> > > > > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq. 
> > > So there
> > > > > > is a
> > > > > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @
> > > 380
> > > > Hz.  I
> > > > > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V
@ 540
> > > Hz and
> > > > > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey
> > > today).
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> > > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
> > > > > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered
and the
> > > > > parts look
> > > > > > > > > good.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD,
> > > taking out
> > > > > > the old
> > > > > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new
> > > light has
> > > > > > some
> > > > > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the
way,
> > > so I
> > > > > > soldered
> > > > > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the
> > > LCD
> > > > board.
> > > > > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so
make
> > > the
> > > > > > backlight
> > > > > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original
to make
> > > > things
> > > > > > > > easier.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my
> > > inverter
> > > > > > is the
> > > > > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the
> > > output of my
> > > > > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
> > > > > understand the
> > > > > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
> > > > backlight
> > > > > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping
> > > that my
> > > > > > existing
> > > > > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
> > > > > shorted.) I
> > > > > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get
> > > very low
> > > > > > voltage.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter. 
I can
> > > get an
> > > > > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it
needs 9V
> > > > DC.  I
> > > > > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> > > > > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the
> > > left
> > > > of the
> > > > > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working?
> > > (My
> > > > > > Fluke says
> > > > > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> > > > > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5
> > > inverter
> > > > > and how
> > > > > > > > > > much it will cost?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.224846
> > > 7/D=g=
> > > > > =
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
> > > ://la=
> > > > > u=
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> > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
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> 
> Antoine Deschênes /aka
>   -´¯`-¸-DragonMaster-¸-´¯`-
> http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> Files: http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/

RE: [k5synth] Notes on Schems...

2004-10-15 by antdes45@netscape.net

That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog 6v. . .
The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for ground, maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like is used for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent difference.

"nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@...> wrote:

>
>Antdes,
>I just wanted to compare some notes on the schems.  I have not had a
>chance to dig too deep yet but I want to see if you reached some of
>the same conclusions I have on some of the notation...
>1) Many connectors have both "AG" and "DG".  Based on my quick look
>this seems to mean Analog Ground (AG) and Digital Ground (DG).  Do you
>agree?  In general something like "+A6" means "analog 6 Volts"
>
>2) It looks like the schems have a slightly different symbol for the
>AG and DG.  The AG ground looks like a horizontal line with three
>vertical swipes under it where as the DG has a more traditional symbol
>for ground.  Do you agree?
>
>The first thing I want to try is to directly connect all of the AG and
>DG cables to a single ground at the same place.  By any chance, have
>you tried that yet?
>
>Anyway, I think I have decoded the schems but I never hurts to compare
>notes. Thanks.
>
>
>--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
>> Mine's not at -65 but at -47 dB with the TL072.
>>
>> nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
>>
>> >
>> > I got the schems yesterday and I will take a look at the ground
>issue.
>> > Although all grounds will eventually get to a single point, one idea
>> > is to make sure the D and A get to the same ground at the same time -
>> > that is make sure there is no path between the A and D grounds.
>> > Anyway, I will try to look at the schems this weekend.
>> >
>> > I also just upgraded to OS1.2.  I am a bit disappointed that the
>> > Kfuenf editor still does not work for me.  Oh well, more on that in my
>> > next post.
>> >
>> > Also, I hooked up my J-station to the K5.  The J-station has a very
>> > good noise gate, as well as delay+reverb+chorus(ect).  I have to crank
>> > the noise gate up to about 65 to kill the line noise.  But the K5
>> > sounds great through this unit and I recommend it if you happen to
>> > have a J-station around.
>> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
>> > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have sepparate
>> > > analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.
>> > >
>> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > Antdes,
>> > > > Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the good
>news is
>> > > > that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.  From
>> > > > everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they had the
>> > > > same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of luck.
>> > > Today
>> > > > I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so
>hopefully,
>> > > > once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on how to
>> > > > reduce the ground noise.
>> > > >
>> > > > I did read something today that said that, although you should
>have
>> > > > separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D should be
>> > > > grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject
>noise in
>> > > to
>> > > > the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what is
>going
>> > > on
>> > > > in the K5.
>> > > >
>> > > > Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to take the D
>> > > > ground off of the power supply board and connect that ground
>> > > directly
>> > > > to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure the
>power
>> > > > supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the D
>ground,
>> > > > but you should be able to check the schem and see if it looks like
>> > > > this is an easy move.
>> > > >
>> > > > Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look at the
>> > > > schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I want to
>> > > try.
>> > > > (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me if it
>> > > works!)
>> > > >
>> > > > Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything else out.
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
>> > > <antdes45@n...>
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > > > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole and
>> > > analog to
>> > > > > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a noisy
>ground
>> > > > > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I hear
>some
>> > > low
>> > > > > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter
>whines(Is
>> > > on
>> > > > > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the
>> > > schemes, and
>> > > > > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on the PSU
>> > > > > mainboard, but are going to it thru different wires.(Same for
>> > > > > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter ground.
>> > > Something
>> > > > > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus wire
>> > > going to
>> > > > > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones, but still
>> > > > > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones noise).
>> > > Might be
>> > > > > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear
>outputs
>> > > > > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some TL072
>> > > instead of
>> > > > > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise talking,
>> > > using
>> > > > > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find the
>name
>> > > on
>> > > > > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal passing 4
>> > > times
>> > > > > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really good).
>> > > > >
>> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > > > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps and
>> > > found that
>> > > > > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to fix the
>> > > noisy
>> > > > > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share the same
>> > > ground?
>> > > > > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new ground plane
>> > > and
>> > > > > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?
>Are all
>> > > the
>> > > > > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just cut the
>> > > ground to
>> > > > > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent" ground?  Are
>> > > there
>> > > > > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the noise that
>> > > can be
>> > > > > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?  Even
>> > > if I can
>> > > > > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can
>identify a
>> > > few
>> > > > > > key components it should not be that hard to create a seperate
>> > > ground
>> > > > > > for those parts.
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Any thoughts?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
>> > > <antdes45@n...>
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > > > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you unplug the
>> > > signal
>> > > > > > there
>> > > > > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy ground.
>> > > It's
>> > > > > > sharing
>> > > > > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I replaced my
>> > > > backlight
>> > > > > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked with my
>> > > > stock K5
>> > > > > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very flakey,
>even
>> > > > after I
>> > > > > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the stock
>> > > > inverter with
>> > > > > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND).  The good
>> > > news
>> > > > > is that
>> > > > > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @ about
>> > > > 550Hz).  It
>> > > > > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it still
>> > > looks
>> > > > great.
>> > > > > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the exact same
>> > > size
>> > > > > as the
>> > > > > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in footprint and a
>> > > lot
>> > > > > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three connections
>> > > (in -
>> > > > out -
>> > > > > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for
>mounting.
>> > > > Because
>> > > > > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for
>> > > the "out", but
>> > > > > I had
>> > > > > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" - not
>a big
>> > > > deal but
>> > > > > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see
>pictures
>> > > of
>> > > > > my ugly
>> > > > > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to
>have gone
>> > > > > well.  My
>> > > > > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more noise
>> > > now.
>> > > > I have
>> > > > > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone
>noise is
>> > > > because
>> > > > > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall design for
>> > > the
>> > > > > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace this
>> > > with a
>> > > > > better
>> > > > > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution is to
>just
>> > > bypass
>> > > > > > > > their circuit completely and make a better headphone
>amp and
>> > > > wire it
>> > > > > > > > up to the K5.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than $30
>> > > > delivered you
>> > > > > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey inverter and
>> > > have
>> > > > a new
>> > > > > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :)
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
>> > > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
>> > > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > > > > > Update:
>> > > > > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from
>> > > www.DigiKey.com.  I
>> > > > > > found an
>> > > > > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for those
>> > > > interested
>> > > > > > > > it is:
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost
>$11.90 -
>> > >  not
>> > > > > bad.
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same
>slots as
>> > > the
>> > > > > > original
>> > > > > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional wiring.
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power supply to
>> > > plan
>> > > > > the new
>> > > > > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming", and guess
>> > > what,
>> > > > > I now
>> > > > > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great, a very
>> > > cool
>> > > > > blue.
>> > > > > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it just
>has bad
>> > > > solder
>> > > > > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I will
>likely
>> > > take
>> > > > > > out the
>> > > > > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints.
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in researching
>> > > > backlights and
>> > > > > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is a
>> > > function
>> > > > of the
>> > > > > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight.  It
>> > > appears one
>> > > > > > has a
>> > > > > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter output
>> > > voltage and
>> > > > > > freq.
>> > > > > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the
>backlight
>> > > by
>> > > > > > plugging
>> > > > > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz here in
>> > > the
>> > > > > > US)!  The
>> > > > > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the backlight.
>> > > > > > However, the
>> > > > > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the freq.
>> > > So there
>> > > > > > is a
>> > > > > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about 102V @
>> > > 380
>> > > > Hz.  I
>> > > > > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about 95V
>@ 540
>> > > Hz and
>> > > > > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from Digikey
>> > > today).
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
>> > > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
>> > > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered from
>> > > > > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered
>and the
>> > > > > parts look
>> > > > > > > > > good.
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the LCD,
>> > > taking out
>> > > > > > the old
>> > > > > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight.  The new
>> > > light has
>> > > > > > some
>> > > > > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in the
>way,
>> > > so I
>> > > > > > soldered
>> > > > > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect to the
>> > > LCD
>> > > > board.
>> > > > > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to size, so
>make
>> > > the
>> > > > > > backlight
>> > > > > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the original
>to make
>> > > > things
>> > > > > > > > easier.
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I think my
>> > > inverter
>> > > > > > is the
>> > > > > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at the
>> > > output of my
>> > > > > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz if I
>> > > > > understand the
>> > > > > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I did the
>> > > > backlight
>> > > > > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was hoping
>> > > that my
>> > > > > > existing
>> > > > > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e. it was
>> > > > > shorted.) I
>> > > > > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight I get
>> > > very low
>> > > > > > voltage.
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an inverter.
>I can
>> > > get an
>> > > > > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it
>needs 9V
>> > > > DC.  I
>> > > > > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
>> > > > > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires to the
>> > > left
>> > > > of the
>> > > > > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is working?
>> > > (My
>> > > > > > Fluke says
>> > > > > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
>> > > > > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible K5
>> > > inverter
>> > > > > and how
>> > > > > > > > > > much it will cost?
>> > > > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is great.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>> > > > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
><http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541.4247512.5496808.224846
>> > > 7/D=g=
>> > > > > =
>> > > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
>> > > ://la=
>> > > > > u=
>> > > > > > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > >
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > > ----
>> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>> > > > > > > >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> > > > > > > >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > <mailto:k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
>> > > Terms of
>> > > > > > > >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > --
>> > > > > > > antdes45@n...
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>> > ADVERTISEMENT
>> >
><http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129v1c9qu/M=315388.5455589.6541277.2248467/D=grplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1097390067/A=2372349/R=0/SIG=12idgqpgc/*https://www.orchardbank.com/hcs/hcsapplication?pf=PLApply&media=EMYHNL40WL1004SS>
>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>> >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
>> >
>> >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> >       k5synth-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>> >
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>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>>
>> Antoine Desch\ufffdnes /aka
>>   -\ufffd\ufffd`-\ufffd-DragonMaster-\ufffd-\ufffd\ufffd`-
>> http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
>> Files: http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
>
>
>
>


-- 
Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
aka DragonMaster
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/


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Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-16 by nelsonj_sce

Antdes,
Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and reroute
it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the inverter
for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I am still
looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003 &MI-004
comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.

2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some reason, on
board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board MI-003 is
all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct, and the
AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the source
of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick way to
separate the grounds on MI-004.

3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both replaced)
has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is possible
that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.   

I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a socket. I
plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works I can
make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 10, 12
(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections directly
to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.  

4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines g0-g7
that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines early in
the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the nosie
will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.  Perhaps there
is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think about how
to do it.

Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.

    
 

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog
6v. . .
> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for ground,
maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like is used
for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent difference.
> 
> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >Antdes,
> >I just wanted to compare some notes on the schems.  I have not had
a
> >chance to dig too deep yet but I want to see if you reached some of
> >the same conclusions I have on some of the notation...
> >1) Many connectors have both "AG" and "DG".  Based on my quick look
> >this seems to mean Analog Ground (AG) and Digital Ground (DG).  Do
you
> >agree?  In general something like "+A6" means "analog 6 Volts"
> >
> >2) It looks like the schems have a slightly different symbol for
the
> >AG and DG.  The AG ground looks like a horizontal line with three
> >vertical swipes under it where as the DG has a more traditional
symbol
> >for ground.  Do you agree?
> >
> >The first thing I want to try is to directly connect all of the AG
and
> >DG cables to a single ground at the same place.  By any chance,
have
> >you tried that yet?
> >
> >Anyway, I think I have decoded the schems but I never hurts to
compare
> >notes. Thanks.
> >
> >
> >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
<antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> >> Mine's not at -65 but at -47 dB with the TL072.
> >>
> >> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >>
> >> >
> >> > I got the schems yesterday and I will take a look at the ground
> >issue.
> >> > Although all grounds will eventually get to a single point, one
idea
> >> > is to make sure the D and A get to the same ground at the same
time -
> >> > that is make sure there is no path between the A and D grounds.
> >> > Anyway, I will try to look at the schems this weekend.
> >> >
> >> > I also just upgraded to OS1.2.  I am a bit disappointed that
the
> >> > Kfuenf editor still does not work for me.  Oh well, more on
that in my
> >> > next post.
> >> >
> >> > Also, I hooked up my J-station to the K5.  The J-station has a
very
> >> > good noise gate, as well as delay+reverb+chorus(ect).  I have
to crank
> >> > the noise gate up to about 65 to kill the line noise.  But the
K5
> >> > sounds great through this unit and I recommend it if you
happen to
> >> > have a J-station around.
> >> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
<antdes45@n...>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Buzzing in rear out is signal ground noise, all pcbs have
sepparate
> >> > > analog grounds to PSU but linked together on the psu.
> >> > >
> >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
<nelsonj_sce@y...>
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Antdes,
> >> > > > Good information in the note below.  It sounds like the
good
> >news is
> >> > > > that the digital (D) and analog (A) have seperate grounds.
 From
> >> > > > everything I have been reading that is good news.  If they
had the
> >> > > > same ground on the same PCB we might be completely out of
luck.
> >> > > Today
> >> > > > I ordered the latest OS ROM and schematics from Kawai so
> >hopefully,
> >> > > > once I have the schems, I make more informed suggestions on
how to
> >> > > > reduce the ground noise.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I did read something today that said that, although you
should
> >have
> >> > > > separate A and D grounding, ultimately both the A and D
should be
> >> > > > grounded at the same point.  Otherwise, the D might inject
> >noise in
> >> > > to
> >> > > > the A ground.  Based on your note, this might be just what
is
> >going
> >> > > on
> >> > > > in the K5.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Based on this observation, one thing to try would be to
take the D
> >> > > > ground off of the power supply board and connect that
ground
> >> > > directly
> >> > > > to the A ground on the transformer.  We need to make sure
the
> >power
> >> > > > supply board is still fully grounded even if we remove the
D
> >ground,
> >> > > > but you should be able to check the schem and see if it
looks like
> >> > > > this is an easy move.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Anyway I don't want to do anything too fancy until I look
at the
> >> > > > schems, but if it looks safe, this is the first thing I
want to
> >> > > try.
> >> > > > (Or if you feel adventurous you could try it and tell me
if it
> >> > > works!)
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Thanks for the note and let me know if you find anything
else out.
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster"
> >> > > <antdes45@n...>
> >> > > > wrote:
> >> > > > > Digital Ground is plugged to one bridge's negative pole
and
> >> > > analog to
> >> > > > > 0v line of the transformer(Black wire). I know it's a
noisy
> >ground
> >> > > > > because when I transfer MIDI between K5 and computer, I
hear
> >some
> >> > > low
> >> > > > > volume beeps in the noise, and my intermittent inverter
> >whines(Is
> >> > > on
> >> > > > > DGround) in the headphones when it wants. I looked at the
> >> > > schemes, and
> >> > > > > every different PCB's DGrounds are plugged together on
the PSU
> >> > > > > mainboard, but are going to it thru different
wires.(Same for
> >> > > > > AGround). Problem is I don't remember how to filter
ground.
> >> > > Something
> >> > > > > to try. Also, when I unplug the brown socketed black bus
wire
> >> > > going to
> >> > > > > outputs board, there is no signal from the headphones,
but still
> >> > > > > noise. So it's not coming from the opamps(Headphones
noise).
> >> > > Might be
> >> > > > > that the LM386's ground has no filter. While for the rear
> >outputs
> >> > > > > noise, the opamps might be too noisy(-45dB with some
TL072
> >> > > instead of
> >> > > > > some TL062, which might have not changed anything noise
talking,
> >> > > using
> >> > > > > some OPA????, don't remember which, will have to re-find
the
> >name
> >> > > on
> >> > > > > DIYAudio, might be a lot less noisy, because a signal
passing 4
> >> > > times
> >> > > > > in pretty noisy OpAmps in series might not be really
good).
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
<nelsonj_sce@y...>
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > > > > > It looks like you have already changed out the op-amps
and
> >> > > found that
> >> > > > > > the noise is still there.  Have you tried anythink to
fix the
> >> > > noisy
> >> > > > > > ground?  Is it that the digital and analog all share
the same
> >> > > ground?
> >> > > > > > Is there a way to "split" the ground or add a new
ground plane
> >> > > and
> >> > > > > > reroute say the digital chips to the new ground plane?
> >Are all
> >> > > the
> >> > > > > > analog parts on a single board so that we could just
cut the
> >> > > ground to
> >> > > > > > that board and then wire up a new, "independent"
ground?  Are
> >> > > there
> >> > > > > > just a few key digital parts that are creating the
noise that
> >> > > can be
> >> > > > > > rerouted to a seperate ground plane?
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > Has anyone at Kawai told you how to solve this problem?
 Even
> >> > > if I can
> >> > > > > > get a hold of the schematics, if Kawai or others can
> >identify a
> >> > > few
> >> > > > > > key components it should not be that hard to create a
seperate
> >> > > ground
> >> > > > > > for those parts.
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > Any thoughts?
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
> >> > > <antdes45@n...>
> >> > > > wrote:
> >> > > > > > > The LM386 doesn't produce any noise. Even if you
unplug the
> >> > > signal
> >> > > > > > there
> >> > > > > > > will still be some. Sctually the problem is a noisy
ground.
> >> > > It's
> >> > > > > > sharing
> >> > > > > > > the same ground for all the board(s).
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Here is the latest, it is good news.
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Today I got my parts for DigiKey.  As below I
replaced my
> >> > > > backlight
> >> > > > > > > > with a blue backlight from nightlaunch.  It worked
with my
> >> > > > stock K5
> >> > > > > > > > inverter.  However, my stock inverter was very
flakey,
> >even
> >> > > > after I
> >> > > > > > > > did the resolder job so I decided to replace the
stock
> >> > > > inverter with
> >> > > > > > > > the DigiKey part.  (Digikey part #289-1032-ND). 
The good
> >> > > news
> >> > > > > is that
> >> > > > > > > > inverter works (even though it is only about 95V @
about
> >> > > > 550Hz).  It
> >> > > > > > > > is a slightly different color than before, but it
still
> >> > > looks
> >> > > > great.
> >> > > > > > > > Also- THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO HUM!
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > The only warning is the Digikey part is not the
exact same
> >> > > size
> >> > > > > as the
> >> > > > > > > > original inverter - it is a bit smaller in
footprint and a
> >> > > lot
> >> > > > > > > > shorter.  The stock inverter has only three
connections
> >> > > (in -
> >> > > > out -
> >> > > > > > > > ground) and the new inverter has a fourth pin for
> >mounting.
> >> > > > Because
> >> > > > > > > > the part is smaller, I used the original hole for
> >> > > the "out", but
> >> > > > > I had
> >> > > > > > > > to wire up jumpers to the "ground" and the "in" -
not
> >a big
> >> > > > deal but
> >> > > > > > > > it is some extra work  - and you don't want to see
> >pictures
> >> > > of
> >> > > > > my ugly
> >> > > > > > > > job.  :).  But so far so good.
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Also, I did the 147K resistor hack and it seems to
> >have gone
> >> > > > > well.  My
> >> > > > > > > > K5 is a louder, but the headphones have even more
noise
> >> > > now.
> >> > > > I have
> >> > > > > > > > been looking things over and I think the headphone
> >noise is
> >> > > > because
> >> > > > > > > > they use a cheap LM386 op-amp and a bad overall
design for
> >> > > the
> >> > > > > > > > headphone amp.  I am trying to see if I can replace
this
> >> > > with a
> >> > > > > better
> >> > > > > > > > op-amp, otherwise I think the only good solution
is to
> >just
> >> > > bypass
> >> > > > > > > > their circuit completely and make a better
headphone
> >amp and
> >> > > > wire it
> >> > > > > > > > up to the K5.
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Anyway, again the good news is that for less than
$30
> >> > > > delivered you
> >> > > > > > > > can get nightlaunch backlight and a Digikey
inverter and
> >> > > have
> >> > > > a new
> >> > > > > > > > backlight that does not hum!  :)
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Now for the headphone amp...
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> >> > > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> >> > > > > > wrote:
> >> > > > > > > > > Update:
> >> > > > > > > > > Well today I ordered a new inverter from
> >> > > www.DigiKey.com.  I
> >> > > > > > found an
> >> > > > > > > > > inverter that looks like it will do the job - for
those
> >> > > > interested
> >> > > > > > > > it is:
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > Digikey part #      289-1032-ND  and it only cost
> >$11.90 -
> >> > >  not
> >> > > > > bad.
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > I am not sure if it will fit exactly in the same
> >slots as
> >> > > the
> >> > > > > > original
> >> > > > > > > > > inverter so it might require some additional
wiring.
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > Anyway, I had my K5 open to look at the power
supply to
> >> > > plan
> >> > > > > the new
> >> > > > > > > > > inverter install when my K5 started "humming",
and guess
> >> > > what,
> >> > > > > I now
> >> > > > > > > > > have a beautiful blue backlight.  It looks great,
a very
> >> > > cool
> >> > > > > blue.
> >> > > > > > > > > So it appears my inverter was not bad, but it
just
> >has bad
> >> > > > solder
> >> > > > > > > > > joints.  It is working for now but tomorrow I
will
> >likely
> >> > > take
> >> > > > > > out the
> >> > > > > > > > > board and redo all the solder joints.
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > Just some additional info I learned in
researching
> >> > > > backlights and
> >> > > > > > > > > inverters.  The "brightness" of the backlight is
a
> >> > > function
> >> > > > of the
> >> > > > > > > > > voltage and frequency applied to the backlight. 
It
> >> > > appears one
> >> > > > > > has a
> >> > > > > > > > > lot of flexibility in selecting the inverter
output
> >> > > voltage and
> >> > > > > > freq.
> >> > > > > > > > > For example, nightlauch says you can "test" the
> >backlight
> >> > > by
> >> > > > > > plugging
> >> > > > > > > > > it directly in to a wall socket (120V AC @ 60 Hz
here in
> >> > > the
> >> > > > > > US)!  The
> >> > > > > > > > > higher the voltage and freq the brighter the
backlight.
> >> > > > > > However, the
> >> > > > > > > > > backlight will "burn out" quicker the higher the
freq.
> >> > > So there
> >> > > > > > is a
> >> > > > > > > > > trade off, high freq = bright but shorter life.
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > Right now my stock inverter is putting out about
102V @
> >> > > 380
> >> > > > Hz.  I
> >> > > > > > > > > think the inverter I ordered will put out about
95V
> >@ 540
> >> > > Hz and
> >> > > > > > > > > should work with a 3 - 6 V DC input.
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > Next step, 147k resistors (also ordered from
Digikey
> >> > > today).
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "nelsonj_sce"
> >> > > <nelsonj_sce@y...>
> >> > > > > > wrote:
> >> > > > > > > > > > Well I replaced my backlight with one I ordered
from
> >> > > > > > > > > www.nightlaunch.com.
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > It took less than two weeks from when I ordered
> >and the
> >> > > > > parts look
> >> > > > > > > > > good.
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > Good news/bad news though on my backlight.
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > The good news:  I had no problems removing the
LCD,
> >> > > taking out
> >> > > > > > the old
> >> > > > > > > > > > backlight and sliding in the new backlight. 
The new
> >> > > light has
> >> > > > > > some
> >> > > > > > > > > > wires and a plastic "tab" that kind of gets in
the
> >way,
> >> > > so I
> >> > > > > > soldered
> >> > > > > > > > > > the backlight wires to where the wires connect
to the
> >> > > LCD
> >> > > > board.
> >> > > > > > > > > > Hint:You have to cut the new backlight to
size, so
> >make
> >> > > the
> >> > > > > > backlight
> >> > > > > > > > > > a little longer (say 1/4 inch) than the
original
> >to make
> >> > > > things
> >> > > > > > > > easier.
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > Bad news: My backlight does not work but I
think my
> >> > > inverter
> >> > > > > > is the
> >> > > > > > > > > > problem.  I am only getting about 1/2 Volt at
the
> >> > > output of my
> >> > > > > > > > > > inverter, and I am supposed to get 120V @400Hz
if I
> >> > > > > understand the
> >> > > > > > > > > > part correctly.  I tested my inverter before I
did the
> >> > > > backlight
> >> > > > > > > > > > install and saw it had low voltage, but I was
hoping
> >> > > that my
> >> > > > > > existing
> >> > > > > > > > > > "dead" backlight was causing the problem (i.e.
it was
> >> > > > > shorted.) I
> >> > > > > > > > > > guess not because even with the new backlight
I get
> >> > > very low
> >> > > > > > voltage.
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > Anyway, it looks like I need to get an
inverter.
> >I can
> >> > > get an
> >> > > > > > > > > > inverter from nightlaunch for $17.99+s/h but it
> >needs 9V
> >> > > > DC.  I
> >> > > > > > > > > > understand the inverter in the K5 uses 5V DC.
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > Q1: Does the K5 inverter use 5V DC?
> >> > > > > > > > > > Q2: If I measure the voltage on the two wires
to the
> >> > > left
> >> > > > of the
> >> > > > > > > > > > inverter, should I get 120V if everything is
working?
> >> > > (My
> >> > > > > > Fluke says
> >> > > > > > > > > > it is good <=1kHz)
> >> > > > > > > > > > Q2: Does anyone know where to get a compatible
K5
> >> > > inverter
> >> > > > > and how
> >> > > > > > > > > > much it will cost?
> >> > > > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > > > Thanks again for all the help.  This group is
great.
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >> > > > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
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> >> > > > >
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> >> > >
> ><http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129jk20o5/M=273541
.4247512.5496808.224846
> >> > > 7/D=g=
> >> > > > > =
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > >
> >rplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1095918198/A=2061551/
R=0/SIG=11sr5b9n1/*http
> >> > > ://la=
> >> > > > > u=
> >> > > > > > nch.yahoo.com/artist/videos.asp?artistID=1001301>
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > >
> >-----------------------------------------------
---------------------
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> >> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an
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> >> > > > > > > antdes45@n...
> >> >
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> >> >
> >> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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>
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www.orchardbank.com/hcs/hcsapplication?pf=PLApply&
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> >> >
> >> >
>
>-------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
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> >> >
> >> >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >> >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
> >> >
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> >> Antoine Deschênes /aka
> >>   -´¯`-¸-DragonMaster-¸-´¯`-
> >> http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> >> Files: http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Antoine Deschênes
> aka DragonMaster
> http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________
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RE: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-16 by antdes45@netscape.net

Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible, without removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU without the big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the boards.

They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to the DG?!?
Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much noisy, that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and wondering why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)

What's the VCA's ground?

Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My theory) the analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that switches rapidly the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As I only have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the PSU(Thanks, 


"nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@...> wrote:

>
>Antdes,
>Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
>while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
>1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and reroute
>it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the inverter
>for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
>GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
>MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I am still
>looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003 &MI-004
>comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
>
>2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some reason, on
>board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board MI-003 is
>all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct, and the
>AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the source
>of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick way to
>separate the grounds on MI-004.
>
>3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both replaced)
>has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
>each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is possible
>that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.
>
>I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a socket. I
>plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works I can
>make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 10, 12
>(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
>ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections directly
>to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
>
>4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines g0-g7
>that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
>lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines early in
>the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the nosie
>will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.  Perhaps there
>is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
>grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think about how
>to do it.
>
>Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.
>
>
>
>
>--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
>> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog
>6v. . .
>> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for ground,
>maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like is used
>for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent difference.
>>
>> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
>>
              . . . Cut the file, was 62k.

-- 
Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
aka DragonMaster
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/


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Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-16 by nelsonj_sce

You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
the DG?!?"
Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to the AG, but
it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG have
ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically, there is
no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on board MI-004.
 As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane that has
both A and D parts on it. 


You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are parts IC6 and
IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a cap on on
pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am not sure
if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom, but pin 4
is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean ground
also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play the role of
traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly to the
main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any other
control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is control the
overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am note sure
that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't hurt to
make sure they have a clean ground. 

So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1 if you
want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on the VCAs.
 Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not have any
direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here, but they
have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.

I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how sleepy my
baby is! 


--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible, without
removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU without the
big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the boards.
> 
> They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to the DG?!?
> Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much noisy,
that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and wondering
why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> 
> What's the VCA's ground?
> 
> Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My theory) the
analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that switches rapidly
the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As I only
have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the PSU(Thanks, 
> 
> 
> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >Antdes,
> >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
> >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and reroute
> >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the inverter
> >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
> >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
> >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I am still
> >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003 &MI-004
> >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> >
> >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some reason, on
> >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board MI-003 is
> >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct, and the
> >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the source
> >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick way to
> >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> >
> >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both replaced)
> >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
> >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is possible
> >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.
> >
> >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a socket. I
> >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works I can
> >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 10, 12
> >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
> >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections directly
> >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> >
> >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines g0-g7
> >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
> >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines early in
> >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the nosie
> >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.  Perhaps there
> >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
> >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think about how
> >to do it.
> >
> >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog
> >6v. . .
> >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for ground,
> >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like is used
> >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent difference.
> >>
> >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> >>
>               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> 
> -- 
> Antoine Deschênes
> aka DragonMaster
> http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
http://isp.netscape.com/register
Show quoted textHide quoted text
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Re: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-16 by Antoine Deschênes

You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have socketed 
opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them at the shop.

"U1 if you use MIX"
I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to build 
some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the first Roland 
D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do that, I 
would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes. Also, I don't 
use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even if I'm just 
playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind of toy for 
me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a controller 
in Finale).

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

>
> You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
> the DG?!?"
> Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to the AG, but
> it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG have
> ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically, there is
> no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on board MI-004.
> As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane that has
> both A and D parts on it.
>
>
> You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are parts IC6 and
> IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a cap on on
> pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am not sure
> if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom, but pin 4
> is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean ground
> also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play the role of
> traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly to the
> main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any other
> control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is control the
> overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am note sure
> that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't hurt to
> make sure they have a clean ground.
>
> So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1 if you
> want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on the VCAs.
> Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not have any
> direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here, but they
> have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
>
> I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how sleepy my
> baby is!
>
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible, without
> removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU without the
> big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the boards.
> >
> > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to the DG?!?
> > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much noisy,
> that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and wondering
> why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> >
> > What's the VCA's ground?
> >
> > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My theory) the
> analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that switches rapidly
> the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As I only
> have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the PSU(Thanks,
> >
> >
> > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >Antdes,
> > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
> > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and reroute
> > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the inverter
> > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
> > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
> > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I am still
> > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003 &MI-004
> > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > >
> > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some reason, on
> > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board MI-003 is
> > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct, and the
> > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the source
> > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick way to
> > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > >
> > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both replaced)
> > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
> > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is possible
> > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.
> > >
> > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a socket. I
> > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works I can
> > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 10, 12
> > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
> > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections directly
> > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > >
> > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines g0-g7
> > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
> > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines early in
> > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the nosie
> > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.  Perhaps there
> > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
> > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think about how
> > >to do it.
> > >
> > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog
> > >6v. . .
> > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for ground,
> > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like is used
> > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent difference.
> > >>
> > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > >>
> >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> >
> > --
> > Antoine Deschênes
> > aka DragonMaster
> > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________________
> > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
> http://isp.netscape.com/register
> >
> > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> >
> > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> > Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> > Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
>
>
>
>
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-- 
antdes45@...

Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-16 by nelsonj_sce

You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi to a
single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner because you
skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to help
clean up the sound. 

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have socketed 
> opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them at
the shop.
> 
> "U1 if you use MIX"
> I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to build 
> some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the first Roland 
> D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do that, I 
> would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes. Also, I don't 
> use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even if I'm
just 
> playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind of toy
for 
> me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a controller 
> in Finale).
> 
> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> 
> >
> > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
> > the DG?!?"
> > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to the AG, but
> > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG have
> > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically, there is
> > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on board MI-004.
> > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane that has
> > both A and D parts on it.
> >
> >
> > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are parts IC6 and
> > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a cap on on
> > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am not sure
> > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom, but pin 4
> > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean ground
> > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play the role of
> > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly to the
> > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any other
> > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is control the
> > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am note sure
> > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't hurt to
> > make sure they have a clean ground.
> >
> > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1 if you
> > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on the VCAs.
> > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not have any
> > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here, but they
> > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
> >
> > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how sleepy my
> > baby is!
> >
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible, without
> > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU without the
> > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the boards.
> > >
> > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to the DG?!?
> > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much noisy,
> > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and wondering
> > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> > >
> > > What's the VCA's ground?
> > >
> > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My theory) the
> > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that switches rapidly
> > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As I only
> > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the PSU(Thanks,
> > >
> > >
> > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >Antdes,
> > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
> > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and
reroute
> > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the inverter
> > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
> > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
> > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I
am still
> > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003
&MI-004
> > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > > >
> > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some reason, on
> > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board MI-003 is
> > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct,
and the
> > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the
source
> > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick way to
> > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > > >
> > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both
replaced)
> > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
> > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is possible
> > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.
> > > >
> > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a
socket. I
> > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works
I can
> > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 10, 12
> > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
> > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections
directly
> > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > > >
> > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines
g0-g7
> > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
> > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines
early in
> > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the
nosie
> > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages. 
Perhaps there
> > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
> > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think
about how
> > > >to do it.
> > > >
> > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog
> > > >6v. . .
> > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for
ground,
> > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like
is used
> > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
difference.
> > > >>
> > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > >>
> > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Antoine Deschênes
> > > aka DragonMaster
> > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________________________
> > > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
> > http://isp.netscape.com/register
> > >
> > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> > >
> > > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> > > Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> > > Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=1292tqqau/M=315388.5500238.6578046.3001176/D=grplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1098034992/A=2372354/R=0/SIG=12id813k2/*https://www.orchardbank.com/hcs/hcsapplication?pf=PLApply&media=EMYHNL40F21004SS>

> >
> >
> >
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/k5synth/
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> >     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> >       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> >
> >
> 
> -- 
> antdes45@n...

Re: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-17 by Antoine Deschênes

Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R mixer from 
the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than Single nor 
Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than Singles(Tried 
with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you since you changed your 
opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4 opamps as I did). I've 
already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive line in(Which is -90dB), 
but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB without source on the 
SoundForge VU Meter.

It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made with 2 K5s 
in 1991.

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

>
> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi to a
> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner because you
> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to help
> clean up the sound.
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have socketed
> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them at
> the shop.
> >
> > "U1 if you use MIX"
> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to build
> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the first Roland
> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do that, I
> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes. Also, I don't
> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even if I'm
> just
> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind of toy
> for
> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a controller
> > in Finale).
> >
> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >
> > >
> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
> > > the DG?!?"
> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to the AG, but
> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG have
> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically, there is
> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on board MI-004.
> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane that has
> > > both A and D parts on it.
> > >
> > >
> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are parts IC6 and
> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a cap on on
> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am not sure
> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom, but pin 4
> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean ground
> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play the role of
> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly to the
> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any other
> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is control the
> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am note sure
> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't hurt to
> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
> > >
> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1 if you
> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on the VCAs.
> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not have any
> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here, but they
> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
> > >
> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how sleepy my
> > > baby is!
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible, without
> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU without the
> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the boards.
> > > >
> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to the DG?!?
> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much noisy,
> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and wondering
> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> > > >
> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
> > > >
> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My theory) the
> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that switches rapidly
> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As I only
> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the PSU(Thanks,
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >Antdes,
> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and
> reroute
> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the inverter
> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I
> am still
> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003
> &MI-004
> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > > > >
> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some reason, on
> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board MI-003 is
> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct,
> and the
> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the
> source
> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick way to
> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > > > >
> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both
> replaced)
> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is possible
> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.
> > > > >
> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a
> socket. I
> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works
> I can
> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 10, 12
> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections
> directly
> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > > > >
> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines
> g0-g7
> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines
> early in
> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the
> nosie
> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.
> Perhaps there
> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think
> about how
> > > > >to do it.
> > > > >
> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc analog
> > > > >6v. . .
> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for
> ground,
> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like
> is used
> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
> difference.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Antoine Deschênes
> > > > aka DragonMaster
> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________________________________________
> > > > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > > > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
> > > http://isp.netscape.com/register
> > > >
> > > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> > > >
> > > > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> > > > Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> > > > Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
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antdes45@netscape.net

Re: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...

2004-10-17 by Antoine Deschênes

Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I know wiaht 
2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2 resistors in 
parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if it's not 
series, I've read this somewhere)

antdes45@... a écrit:

> Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R mixer 
> from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than Single nor 
> Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than 
> Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you since you 
> changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4 opamps as I 
> did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive line in(Which 
> is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB without 
> source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
>
> It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made with 2 
> K5s in 1991.
>
> nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:
>
>>
>> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
>> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi to a
>> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner because you
>> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to help
>> clean up the sound.
>>
>> --- In k5synth@...m, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
>> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have socketed
>> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them at
>> the shop.
>> >
>> > "U1 if you use MIX"
>> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to build
>> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the first Roland
>> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do that, I
>> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes. Also, I 
>> don't
>> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even if I'm
>> just
>> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind of toy
>> for
>> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a controller
>> > in Finale).
>> >
>> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
>> >
>> > >
>> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm 
>> right) to
>> > > the DG?!?"
>> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to the 
>> AG, but
>> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG have
>> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically, there is
>> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on board 
>> MI-004.
>> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane that has
>> > > both A and D parts on it.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
>> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are parts 
>> IC6 and
>> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a cap on on
>> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am not 
>> sure
>> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom, but pin 4
>> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean ground
>> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play the 
>> role of
>> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly to the
>> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any other
>> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is control the
>> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am note sure
>> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't hurt to
>> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
>> > >
>> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1 if you
>> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on the 
>> VCAs.
>> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not have any
>> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here, but they
>> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
>> > >
>> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how sleepy my
>> > > baby is!
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
>> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible, without
>> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU without the
>> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the boards.
>> > > >
>> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to the 
>> DG?!?
>> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much noisy,
>> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and wondering
>> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
>> > > >
>> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
>> > > >
>> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My theory) the
>> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that switches 
>> rapidly
>> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As I only
>> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the 
>> PSU(Thanks,
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >Antdes,
>> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at the schems
>> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
>> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply and
>> reroute
>> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this the 
>> inverter
>> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6 WILL NOT BE
>> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010, rather
>> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be grounded.  I
>> am still
>> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the MI-003
>> &MI-004
>> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some 
>> reason, on
>> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board 
>> MI-003 is
>> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am correct,
>> and the
>> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may be the
>> source
>> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no quick 
>> way to
>> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have both
>> replaced)
>> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where the "+" of
>> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It is 
>> possible
>> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to these amp.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now in a
>> socket. I
>> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it works
>> I can
>> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3, 5, 
>> 10, 12
>> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the socket/dirty
>> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these connections
>> directly
>> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at lines
>> g0-g7
>> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only analog signal
>> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level lines
>> early in
>> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these lines, the
>> nosie
>> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.
>> Perhaps there
>> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to change the
>> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to think
>> about how
>> > > > >to do it.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground U4.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
>> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V dc 
>> analog
>> > > > >6v. . .
>> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign for
>> ground,
>> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork like
>> is used
>> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
>> difference.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
>> > > > >>
>> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
>> > > >
>> > > > --
>> > > > Antoine Deschênes
>> > > > aka DragonMaster
>> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
>> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > __________________________________________________________________
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>> <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=1292tqqau/M=315388.5500238.6578046.3001176/D=grplch/S=1705032144:HM/EXP=1098034992/A=2372354/R=0/SIG=12id813k2/*https://www.orchardbank.com/hcs/hcsapplication?pf=PLApply&media=EMYHNL40F21004SS>>
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-- 
antdes45@...

Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-17 by nelsonj_sce

Per one of my earlier notes,  I took out my BB opamp part U4 and
replaced it with a rewired Tl074 where I lifted the ground pins 3, 5, 
10, 12 and rewired them to a different ground.  Bottom line: Using a
different ground for U4 made very little improvement in noise.  It did
reduce it a bit, but the noise reduction is not worth the effort.  I
even tried 4 different new ground locations,including the main ground
by the xmfr, but none of the grounds resulted in any meaningful noise
reduction.  

Anyway, this hack is not worth doing.  Back to the drawing board...

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I know
wiaht 
> 2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2 resistors
in 
> parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if it's
not 
> series, I've read this somewhere)
> 
> antdes45@n... a écrit:
> 
> > Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R
mixer 
> > from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than Single
nor 
> > Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than 
> > Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you since
you 
> > changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4 opamps
as I 
> > did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive line
in(Which 
> > is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB
without 
> > source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
> >
> > It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made with
2 
> > K5s in 1991.
> >
> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >
> >>
> >> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
> >> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi
to a
> >> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner
because you
> >> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to
help
> >> clean up the sound.
> >>
> >> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
<antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> >> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have
socketed
> >> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them
at
> >> the shop.
> >> >
> >> > "U1 if you use MIX"
> >> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to
build
> >> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the
first
Roland
> >> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do
that, I
> >> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes.
Also, I 
> >> don't
> >> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even
if I'm
> >> just
> >> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind
of toy
> >> for
> >> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a
controller
> >> > in Finale).
> >> >
> >> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm 
> >> right) to
> >> > > the DG?!?"
> >> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to
the 
> >> AG, but
> >> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG
have
> >> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically,
there is
> >> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on
board 
> >> MI-004.
> >> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane
that has
> >> > > both A and D parts on it.
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> >> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are
parts 
> >> IC6 and
> >> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a
cap on on
> >> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am
not 
> >> sure
> >> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom,
but pin 4
> >> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean
ground
> >> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play
the 
> >> role of
> >> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly
to the
> >> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any
other
> >> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is
control the
> >> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am
note sure
> >> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't
hurt to
> >> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
> >> > >
> >> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1
if you
> >> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on
the 
> >> VCAs.
> >> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not
have any
> >> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here,
but they
> >> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
> >> > >
> >> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how
sleepy my
> >> > > baby is!
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> >> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible,
without
> >> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU
without the
> >> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the
boards.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
the 
> >> DG?!?
> >> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much
noisy,
> >> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and
wondering
> >> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> >> > > >
> >> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My
theory) the
> >> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that
switches 
> >> rapidly
> >> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As
I only
> >> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the 
> >> PSU(Thanks,
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >Antdes,
> >> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at
the schems
> >> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> >> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply
and
> >> reroute
> >> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this
the 
> >> inverter
> >> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6
WILL NOT BE
> >> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010,
rather
> >> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be
grounded.  I
> >> am still
> >> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the
MI-003
> >> &MI-004
> >> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some 
> >> reason, on
> >> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board 
> >> MI-003 is
> >> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am
correct,
> >> and the
> >> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may
be the
> >> source
> >> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no
quick 
> >> way to
> >> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have
both
> >> replaced)
> >> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where
the "+" of
> >> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It
is 
> >> possible
> >> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to
these amp.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now
in a
> >> socket. I
> >> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it
works
> >> I can
> >> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3,
5, 
> >> 10, 12
> >> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the
socket/dirty
> >> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these
connections
> >> directly
> >> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at
lines
> >> g0-g7
> >> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only
analog signal
> >> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level
lines
> >> early in
> >> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these
lines, the
> >> nosie
> >> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.
> >> Perhaps there
> >> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to
change the
> >> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to
think
> >> about how
> >> > > > >to do it.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground
U4.
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> >> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V
dc 
> >> analog
> >> > > > >6v. . .
> >> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign
for
> >> ground,
> >> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork
like
> >> is used
> >> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
> >> difference.
> >> > > > >>
> >> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> >> > > > >>
> >> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --
> >> > > > Antoine Deschênes
> >> > > > aka DragonMaster
> >> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> >> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
__________________________________________________________________
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> antdes45@n...

Re: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-18 by Antoine Deschênes

Problem can be in the OKI coils, opamps other than U4, or something else.

And if you remove the VCAs? (Without cutting the pins) Maybe these are 
just crappy noisy things?

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

>
> Per one of my earlier notes,  I took out my BB opamp part U4 and
> replaced it with a rewired Tl074 where I lifted the ground pins 3, 5,
> 10, 12 and rewired them to a different ground.  Bottom line: Using a
> different ground for U4 made very little improvement in noise.  It did
> reduce it a bit, but the noise reduction is not worth the effort.  I
> even tried 4 different new ground locations,including the main ground
> by the xmfr, but none of the grounds resulted in any meaningful noise
> reduction. 
>
> Anyway, this hack is not worth doing.  Back to the drawing board...
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> > Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I know
> wiaht
> > 2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2 resistors
> in
> > parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if it's
> not
> > series, I've read this somewhere)
> >
> > antdes45@n... a écrit:
> >
> > > Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R
> mixer
> > > from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than Single
> nor
> > > Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than
> > > Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you since
> you
> > > changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4 opamps
> as I
> > > did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive line
> in(Which
> > > is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB
> without
> > > source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
> > >
> > > It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made with
> 2
> > > K5s in 1991.
> > >
> > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > >
> > >>
> > >> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
> > >> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi
> to a
> > >> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner
> because you
> > >> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to
> help
> > >> clean up the sound.
> > >>
> > >> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
> <antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> > >> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have
> socketed
> > >> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them
> at
> > >> the shop.
> > >> >
> > >> > "U1 if you use MIX"
> > >> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to
> build
> > >> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the
> first
> Roland
> > >> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do
> that, I
> > >> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes.
> Also, I
> > >> don't
> > >> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even
> if I'm
> > >> just
> > >> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind
> of toy
> > >> for
> > >> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a
> controller
> > >> > in Finale).
> > >> >
> > >> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > >> >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm
> > >> right) to
> > >> > > the DG?!?"
> > >> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to
> the
> > >> AG, but
> > >> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG
> have
> > >> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically,
> there is
> > >> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on
> board
> > >> MI-004.
> > >> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane
> that has
> > >> > > both A and D parts on it.
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> > >> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are
> parts
> > >> IC6 and
> > >> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a
> cap on on
> > >> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am
> not
> > >> sure
> > >> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom,
> but pin 4
> > >> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean
> ground
> > >> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play
> the
> > >> role of
> > >> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly
> to the
> > >> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any
> other
> > >> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is
> control the
> > >> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am
> note sure
> > >> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't
> hurt to
> > >> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1
> if you
> > >> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on
> the
> > >> VCAs.
> > >> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not
> have any
> > >> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here,
> but they
> > >> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how
> sleepy my
> > >> > > baby is!
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > >> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible,
> without
> > >> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU
> without the
> > >> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the
> boards.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
> the
> > >> DG?!?
> > >> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much
> noisy,
> > >> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and
> wondering
> > >> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My
> theory) the
> > >> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that
> switches
> > >> rapidly
> > >> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As
> I only
> > >> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the
> > >> PSU(Thanks,
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >Antdes,
> > >> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at
> the schems
> > >> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > >> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply
> and
> > >> reroute
> > >> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this
> the
> > >> inverter
> > >> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6
> WILL NOT BE
> > >> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010,
> rather
> > >> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be
> grounded.  I
> > >> am still
> > >> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the
> MI-003
> > >> &MI-004
> > >> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some
> > >> reason, on
> > >> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board
> > >> MI-003 is
> > >> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am
> correct,
> > >> and the
> > >> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may
> be the
> > >> source
> > >> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no
> quick
> > >> way to
> > >> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have
> both
> > >> replaced)
> > >> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where
> the "+" of
> > >> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It
> is
> > >> possible
> > >> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to
> these amp.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now
> in a
> > >> socket. I
> > >> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it
> works
> > >> I can
> > >> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3,
> 5,
> > >> 10, 12
> > >> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the
> socket/dirty
> > >> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these
> connections
> > >> directly
> > >> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at
> lines
> > >> g0-g7
> > >> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only
> analog signal
> > >> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level
> lines
> > >> early in
> > >> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these
> lines, the
> > >> nosie
> > >> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.
> > >> Perhaps there
> > >> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to
> change the
> > >> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to
> think
> > >> about how
> > >> > > > >to do it.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground
> U4.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > >> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V
> dc
> > >> analog
> > >> > > > >6v. . .
> > >> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign
> for
> > >> ground,
> > >> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork
> like
> > >> is used
> > >> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
> > >> difference.
> > >> > > > >>
> > >> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > >> > > > >>
> > >> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > --
> > >> > > > Antoine Deschênes
> > >> > > > aka DragonMaster
> > >> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > >> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> __________________________________________________________________
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antdes45@...

Re: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-23 by Antoine Deschênes

Removing the opamps one by one could help:
exampe. You remove the 2nd last opamp and there is no more noise, then 
noise source is not at final stage.

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

>
> Per one of my earlier notes,  I took out my BB opamp part U4 and
> replaced it with a rewired Tl074 where I lifted the ground pins 3, 5,
> 10, 12 and rewired them to a different ground.  Bottom line: Using a
> different ground for U4 made very little improvement in noise.  It did
> reduce it a bit, but the noise reduction is not worth the effort.  I
> even tried 4 different new ground locations,including the main ground
> by the xmfr, but none of the grounds resulted in any meaningful noise
> reduction. 
>
> Anyway, this hack is not worth doing.  Back to the drawing board...
>
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> > Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I know
> wiaht
> > 2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2 resistors
> in
> > parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if it's
> not
> > series, I've read this somewhere)
> >
> > antdes45@n... a écrit:
> >
> > > Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R
> mixer
> > > from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than Single
> nor
> > > Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than
> > > Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you since
> you
> > > changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4 opamps
> as I
> > > did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive line
> in(Which
> > > is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB
> without
> > > source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
> > >
> > > It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made with
> 2
> > > K5s in 1991.
> > >
> > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > >
> > >>
> > >> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
> > >> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi
> to a
> > >> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner
> because you
> > >> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to
> help
> > >> clean up the sound.
> > >>
> > >> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
> <antdes45@n...>
> wrote:
> > >> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have
> socketed
> > >> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them
> at
> > >> the shop.
> > >> >
> > >> > "U1 if you use MIX"
> > >> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to
> build
> > >> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the
> first
> Roland
> > >> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do
> that, I
> > >> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes.
> Also, I
> > >> don't
> > >> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even
> if I'm
> > >> just
> > >> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind
> of toy
> > >> for
> > >> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a
> controller
> > >> > in Finale).
> > >> >
> > >> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > >> >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm
> > >> right) to
> > >> > > the DG?!?"
> > >> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to
> the
> > >> AG, but
> > >> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG
> have
> > >> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically,
> there is
> > >> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on
> board
> > >> MI-004.
> > >> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane
> that has
> > >> > > both A and D parts on it.
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> > >> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are
> parts
> > >> IC6 and
> > >> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a
> cap on on
> > >> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am
> not
> > >> sure
> > >> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom,
> but pin 4
> > >> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean
> ground
> > >> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play
> the
> > >> role of
> > >> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly
> to the
> > >> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any
> other
> > >> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is
> control the
> > >> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am
> note sure
> > >> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't
> hurt to
> > >> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1
> if you
> > >> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on
> the
> > >> VCAs.
> > >> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not
> have any
> > >> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here,
> but they
> > >> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how
> sleepy my
> > >> > > baby is!
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > >> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible,
> without
> > >> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU
> without the
> > >> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the
> boards.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
> the
> > >> DG?!?
> > >> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much
> noisy,
> > >> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and
> wondering
> > >> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My
> theory) the
> > >> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that
> switches
> > >> rapidly
> > >> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As
> I only
> > >> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the
> > >> PSU(Thanks,
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >Antdes,
> > >> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at
> the schems
> > >> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > >> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply
> and
> > >> reroute
> > >> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this
> the
> > >> inverter
> > >> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6
> WILL NOT BE
> > >> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010,
> rather
> > >> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be
> grounded.  I
> > >> am still
> > >> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the
> MI-003
> > >> &MI-004
> > >> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some
> > >> reason, on
> > >> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board
> > >> MI-003 is
> > >> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am
> correct,
> > >> and the
> > >> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may
> be the
> > >> source
> > >> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no
> quick
> > >> way to
> > >> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have
> both
> > >> replaced)
> > >> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where
> the "+" of
> > >> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It
> is
> > >> possible
> > >> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to
> these amp.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now
> in a
> > >> socket. I
> > >> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it
> works
> > >> I can
> > >> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3,
> 5,
> > >> 10, 12
> > >> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the
> socket/dirty
> > >> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these
> connections
> > >> directly
> > >> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at
> lines
> > >> g0-g7
> > >> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only
> analog signal
> > >> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level
> lines
> > >> early in
> > >> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these
> lines, the
> > >> nosie
> > >> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.
> > >> Perhaps there
> > >> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to
> change the
> > >> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to
> think
> > >> about how
> > >> > > > >to do it.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground
> U4.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > >> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V
> dc
> > >> analog
> > >> > > > >6v. . .
> > >> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign
> for
> > >> ground,
> > >> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork
> like
> > >> is used
> > >> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
> > >> difference.
> > >> > > > >>
> > >> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > >> > > > >>
> > >> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > --
> > >> > > > Antoine Deschênes
> > >> > > > aka DragonMaster
> > >> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > >> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> __________________________________________________________________
> > >> > > > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > >> > > > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
> > >> > > http://isp.netscape.com/register
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> > >> > > > Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying
> pop-ups.
> > >> > > > Download now at
> http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
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> > >> > >
> > >> > >
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> > >> > >
> > >> >
> > >> > --
> > >> > antdes45@n...
> > >>
> > >>
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> > >
> > > --
> > > antdes45@n...
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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> edia=EMYHNL40F21004SS>
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> > >
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> > >
> > >
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> > >
> > >     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
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-- 
antdes45@...

Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-23 by antdes45dragonmaster

Not exampe, example

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> Removing the opamps one by one could help:
> exampe. You remove the 2nd last opamp and there is no more noise, then 
> noise source is not at final stage.
> 
> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> 
> >
> > Per one of my earlier notes,  I took out my BB opamp part U4 and
> > replaced it with a rewired Tl074 where I lifted the ground pins 3, 5,
> > 10, 12 and rewired them to a different ground.  Bottom line: Using a
> > different ground for U4 made very little improvement in noise.  It did
> > reduce it a bit, but the noise reduction is not worth the effort.  I
> > even tried 4 different new ground locations,including the main ground
> > by the xmfr, but none of the grounds resulted in any meaningful noise
> > reduction. 
> >
> > Anyway, this hack is not worth doing.  Back to the drawing board...
> >
> > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > > Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I know
> > wiaht
> > > 2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2 resistors
> > in
> > > parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if it's
> > not
> > > series, I've read this somewhere)
> > >
> > > antdes45@n... a écrit:
> > >
> > > > Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R
> > mixer
> > > > from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than Single
> > nor
> > > > Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than
> > > > Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you since
> > you
> > > > changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4 opamps
> > as I
> > > > did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive line
> > in(Which
> > > > is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB
> > without
> > > > source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
> > > >
> > > > It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made with
> > 2
> > > > K5s in 1991.
> > > >
> > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
> > > >> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a Multi
> > to a
> > > >> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner
> > because you
> > > >> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick to
> > help
> > > >> clean up the sound.
> > > >>
> > > >> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
> > <antdes45@n...>
> > wrote:
> > > >> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now have
> > socketed
> > > >> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask them
> > at
> > > >> the shop.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > "U1 if you use MIX"
> > > >> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have time/want to
> > build
> > > >> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for the
> > first
> > Roland
> > > >> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would do
> > that, I
> > > >> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes.
> > Also, I
> > > >> don't
> > > >> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it even
> > if I'm
> > > >> just
> > > >> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a kind
> > of toy
> > > >> for
> > > >> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it as a
> > controller
> > > >> > in Finale).
> > > >> >
> > > >> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > >> >
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm
> > > >> right) to
> > > >> > > the DG?!?"
> > > >> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is connected to
> > the
> > > >> AG, but
> > > >> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG and DG
> > have
> > > >> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So basically,
> > there is
> > > >> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes on
> > board
> > > >> MI-004.
> > > >> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground plane
> > that has
> > > >> > > both A and D parts on it.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> > > >> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs are
> > parts
> > > >> IC6 and
> > > >> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground through a
> > cap on on
> > > >> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.  I am
> > not
> > > >> sure
> > > >> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the bottom,
> > but pin 4
> > > >> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a clean
> > ground
> > > >> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not play
> > the
> > > >> role of
> > > >> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected directly
> > to the
> > > >> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have any
> > other
> > > >> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is
> > control the
> > > >> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case, I am
> > note sure
> > > >> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it can't
> > hurt to
> > > >> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4 (and U1
> > if you
> > > >> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the ground on
> > the
> > > >> VCAs.
> > > >> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and do not
> > have any
> > > >> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change here,
> > but they
> > > >> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as Step 3.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on how
> > sleepy my
> > > >> > > baby is!
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > >> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU board(Impossible,
> > without
> > > >> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU
> > without the
> > > >> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground of the
> > boards.
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm right) to
> > the
> > > >> DG?!?
> > > >> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that much
> > noisy,
> > > >> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the input and
> > wondering
> > > >> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My
> > theory) the
> > > >> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that
> > switches
> > > >> rapidly
> > > >> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and 4. As
> > I only
> > > >> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and the
> > > >> PSU(Thanks,
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >Antdes,
> > > >> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look more at
> > the schems
> > > >> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > > >> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power supply
> > and
> > > >> reroute
> > > >> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do this
> > the
> > > >> inverter
> > > >> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part D6
> > WILL NOT BE
> > > >> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on MI-010,
> > rather
> > > >> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be
> > grounded.  I
> > > >> am still
> > > >> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for the
> > MI-003
> > > >> &MI-004
> > > >> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for some
> > > >> reason, on
> > > >> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.  Board
> > > >> MI-003 is
> > > >> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am
> > correct,
> > > >> and the
> > > >> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this may
> > be the
> > > >> source
> > > >> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is no
> > quick
> > > >> way to
> > > >> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we have
> > both
> > > >> replaced)
> > > >> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps, where
> > the "+" of
> > > >> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.  It
> > is
> > > >> possible
> > > >> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise to
> > these amp.
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is now
> > in a
> > > >> socket. I
> > > >> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but if it
> > works
> > > >> I can
> > > >> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending connections 3,
> > 5,
> > > >> 10, 12
> > > >> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the
> > socket/dirty
> > > >> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these
> > connections
> > > >> directly
> > > >> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am looking at
> > lines
> > > >> g0-g7
> > > >> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only
> > analog signal
> > > >> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low level
> > lines
> > > >> early in
> > > >> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these
> > lines, the
> > > >> nosie
> > > >> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp stages.
> > > >> Perhaps there
> > > >> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or to
> > change the
> > > >> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have to
> > think
> > > >> about how
> > > >> > > > >to do it.
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I reground
> > U4.
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >
> > > >> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > >> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground, +A6V
> > dc
> > > >> analog
> > > >> > > > >6v. . .
> > > >> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other sign
> > for
> > > >> ground,
> > > >> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the fork
> > like
> > > >> is used
> > > >> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a country/continent
> > > >> difference.
> > > >> > > > >>
> > > >> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > >> > > > >>
> > > >> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > --
> > > >> > > > Antoine Deschênes
> > > >> > > > aka DragonMaster
> > > >> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > > >> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > >
> > __________________________________________________________________
> > > >> > > > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > > >> > > > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
> > > >> > > http://isp.netscape.com/register
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> > > >> > > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> > > >> > > >
> > > >> > > > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> > > >> > > > Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying
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> antdes45@n...

Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-24 by nelsonj_sce

Hack update:
Since my last note I replaced the other two op-amps with socketed Burr
Brown OPA4228.  Replacing these two other op-amps did reduce noise
levels noticeably.  There is still some noise but with 1)the these
four super clean op-amps, 2)using Multi, 3)routing everything to a
sinlge output on the multi rather than mix, and 4)using my noise gate,
noise is really not an issue any more.  I would love to try and
replace the VCAs also, but I have not been able to track down a spec
sheet (or any other info on the) on them so I do not have a clue as
what might works as an upgraded part.
 
If anyone can help, the VCAs are part M5222L and they are from
the same off-brand Japanese JRC company that is used elsewhere in the
K5.  If anyone can help me with details on the M5222Ls I will see if I
can find a replacement parts.

My bottom line: If you are willing to lay-out $30 for the four BB
OPA4228 and sockets, and you if you are willing to remove some
tough-to-remove parts, I highly recommend this op-amp replacement
hack.  My K5 has much less noise and just sounds much warmer/classier
with the new parts.  I would love remove more noise, but right now it
sounds very good and I am not very motivate to continue hacking.  (I
do still plan on replacing the headphone circuit though since I
already made the new circuit and all I have to do is wire it up.)

An interesting aside:  After I did the latest op-amp replacement,
everything sounded great in multi, but when I went to single I had
serious problems.  Various ranges of the keyboard worked fine, while
other ranges sounds like a fried amp circuit.  It turns out that while
I was removing IC8 I accidentally pulled part of the circuit board
trace off that connected pins 1 and 2 on IC8.  This trace provides the
feedback loop between the (-) and output of line G2.  Once I tracked
down the problem I was able to reconnect pins 1 and 2 and then
everything in single mode worked great.  What I conclude from this is
that the K5 in single mode is splitting different ranges of the
keyboard to different op-amps.  I am not sure what K% is doing in 
multi but multi (ouput 1) DOES NOT use the opamp in IC8 pins 1-2-3.  

Hack on.      
     

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> 
> Not exampe, example
> 
> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
<antdes45@n...> wrote:
> > Removing the opamps one by one could help:
> > exampe. You remove the 2nd last opamp and there is no more noise,
then 
> > noise source is not at final stage.
> > 
> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > 
> > >
> > > Per one of my earlier notes,  I took out my BB opamp part U4 and
> > > replaced it with a rewired Tl074 where I lifted the ground pins
3, 5,
> > > 10, 12 and rewired them to a different ground.  Bottom line:
Using a
> > > different ground for U4 made very little improvement in noise. 
It did
> > > reduce it a bit, but the noise reduction is not worth the
effort.  I
> > > even tried 4 different new ground locations,including the main
ground
> > > by the xmfr, but none of the grounds resulted in any meaningful
noise
> > > reduction. 
> > >
> > > Anyway, this hack is not worth doing.  Back to the drawing
board...
> > >
> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes
<antdes45@n...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I
know
> > > wiaht
> > > > 2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2
resistors
> > > in
> > > > parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if
it's
> > > not
> > > > series, I've read this somewhere)
> > > >
> > > > antdes45@n... a écrit:
> > > >
> > > > > Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R
> > > mixer
> > > > > from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than
Single
> > > nor
> > > > > Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than
> > > > > Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you
since
> > > you
> > > > > changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4
opamps
> > > as I
> > > > > did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive
line
> > > in(Which
> > > > > is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB
> > > without
> > > > > source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
> > > > >
> > > > > It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made
with
> > > 2
> > > > > K5s in 1991.
> > > > >
> > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > > >
> > > > >>
> > > > >> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
> > > > >> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a
Multi
> > > to a
> > > > >> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner
> > > because you
> > > > >> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick
to
> > > help
> > > > >> clean up the sound.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> --- In k5synth@...m, Antoine Deschênes
> > > <antdes45@n...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > >> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now
have
> > > socketed
> > > > >> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask
them
> > > at
> > > > >> the shop.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > "U1 if you use MIX"
> > > > >> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have
time/want to
> > > build
> > > > >> > some 4 ½ m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for
the
> > > first
> > > Roland
> > > > >> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would
do
> > > that, I
> > > > >> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes.
> > > Also, I
> > > > >> don't
> > > > >> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it
even
> > > if I'm
> > > > >> just
> > > > >> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a
kind
> > > of toy
> > > > >> for
> > > > >> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it
as a
> > > controller
> > > > >> > in Finale).
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+)
input(if I'm
> > > > >> right) to
> > > > >> > > the DG?!?"
> > > > >> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is
connected to
> > > the
> > > > >> AG, but
> > > > >> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG
and DG
> > > have
> > > > >> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So
basically,
> > > there is
> > > > >> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes
on
> > > board
> > > > >> MI-004.
> > > > >> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground
plane
> > > that has
> > > > >> > > both A and D parts on it.
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
> > > > >> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs
are
> > > parts
> > > > >> IC6 and
> > > > >> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground
through a
> > > cap on on
> > > > >> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.
 I am
> > > not
> > > > >> sure
> > > > >> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the
bottom,
> > > but pin 4
> > > > >> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a
clean
> > > ground
> > > > >> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not
play
> > > the
> > > > >> role of
> > > > >> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected
directly
> > > to the
> > > > >> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have
any
> > > other
> > > > >> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is
> > > control the
> > > > >> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case,
I am
> > > note sure
> > > > >> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it
can't
> > > hurt to
> > > > >> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4
(and U1
> > > if you
> > > > >> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the
ground on
> > > the
> > > > >> VCAs.
> > > > >> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and
do not
> > > have any
> > > > >> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change
here,
> > > but they
> > > > >> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as
Step 3.
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on
how
> > > sleepy my
> > > > >> > > baby is!
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > > >> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU
board(Impossible,
> > > without
> > > > >> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU
> > > without the
> > > > >> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground
of the
> > > boards.
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm
right) to
> > > the
> > > > >> DG?!?
> > > > >> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that
much
> > > noisy,
> > > > >> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the
input and
> > > wondering
> > > > >> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My
> > > theory) the
> > > > >> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that
> > > switches
> > > > >> rapidly
> > > > >> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and
4. As
> > > I only
> > > > >> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and
the
> > > > >> PSU(Thanks,
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >Antdes,
> > > > >> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look
more at
> > > the schems
> > > > >> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
> > > > >> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power
supply
> > > and
> > > > >> reroute
> > > > >> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do
this
> > > the
> > > > >> inverter
> > > > >> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part
D6
> > > WILL NOT BE
> > > > >> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on
MI-010,
> > > rather
> > > > >> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be
> > > grounded.  I
> > > > >> am still
> > > > >> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for
the
> > > MI-003
> > > > >> &MI-004
> > > > >> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for
some
> > > > >> reason, on
> > > > >> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected. 
Board
> > > > >> MI-003 is
> > > > >> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am
> > > correct,
> > > > >> and the
> > > > >> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this
may
> > > be the
> > > > >> source
> > > > >> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is
no
> > > quick
> > > > >> way to
> > > > >> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we
have
> > > both
> > > > >> replaced)
> > > > >> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps,
where
> > > the "+" of
> > > > >> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.
 It
> > > is
> > > > >> possible
> > > > >> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise
to
> > > these amp.
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is
now
> > > in a
> > > > >> socket. I
> > > > >> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but
if it
> > > works
> > > > >> I can
> > > > >> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending
connections 3,
> > > 5,
> > > > >> 10, 12
> > > > >> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the
> > > socket/dirty
> > > > >> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these
> > > connections
> > > > >> directly
> > > > >> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am
looking at
> > > lines
> > > > >> g0-g7
> > > > >> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only
> > > analog signal
> > > > >> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low
level
> > > lines
> > > > >> early in
> > > > >> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these
> > > lines, the
> > > > >> nosie
> > > > >> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp
stages.
> > > > >> Perhaps there
> > > > >> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or
to
> > > change the
> > > > >> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have
to
> > > think
> > > > >> about how
> > > > >> > > > >to do it.
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I
reground
> > > U4.
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >
> > > > >> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> > > > >> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground,
+A6V
> > > dc
> > > > >> analog
> > > > >> > > > >6v. . .
> > > > >> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other
sign
> > > for
> > > > >> ground,
> > > > >> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the
fork
> > > like
> > > > >> is used
> > > > >> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a
country/continent
> > > > >> difference.
> > > > >> > > > >>
> > > > >> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> > > > >> > > > >>
> > > > >> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > > --
> > > > >> > > > Antoine Deschênes
> > > > >> > > > aka DragonMaster
> > > > >> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> > > > >> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > >
> > > > >> > > >
> > > ____________________________________________
______________________
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> > > ww.orchardbank.com/hcs/hcsapplication?pf=PLApply&m
> > > edia=EMYHNL40F21004SS
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> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > >
> > > > >> > >
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> > > > >> > --
> > > > >> > antdes45@n...
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RE: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-24 by antdes45@netscape.net

JRC makes clones eg. the RC4558 is a TI chip but JRC makes some the VCAs are Mitsubishi, but JRC makes some too, send them an e-mail, they can send you infos about obsolete components, but you might receive it after a couple of months.

Note: I saw they rebuilt the site, maybe the support has changed. It's NJR.COM (NewJapaneseRadio's logo is JRC)

"nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@...> wrote:

>
>Hack update:
>Since my last note I replaced the other two op-amps with socketed Burr
>Brown OPA4228.  Replacing these two other op-amps did reduce noise
>levels noticeably.  There is still some noise but with 1)the these
>four super clean op-amps, 2)using Multi, 3)routing everything to a
>sinlge output on the multi rather than mix, and 4)using my noise gate,
>noise is really not an issue any more.  I would love to try and
>replace the VCAs also, but I have not been able to track down a spec
>sheet (or any other info on the) on them so I do not have a clue as
>what might works as an upgraded part.
>
>If anyone can help, the VCAs are part M5222L and they are from
>the same off-brand Japanese JRC company that is used elsewhere in the
>K5.  If anyone can help me with details on the M5222Ls I will see if I
>can find a replacement parts.
>
>My bottom line: If you are willing to lay-out $30 for the four BB
>OPA4228 and sockets, and you if you are willing to remove some
>tough-to-remove parts, I highly recommend this op-amp replacement
>hack.  My K5 has much less noise and just sounds much warmer/classier
>with the new parts.  I would love remove more noise, but right now it
>sounds very good and I am not very motivate to continue hacking.  (I
>do still plan on replacing the headphone circuit though since I
>already made the new circuit and all I have to do is wire it up.)
>
>An interesting aside:  After I did the latest op-amp replacement,
>everything sounded great in multi, but when I went to single I had
>serious problems.  Various ranges of the keyboard worked fine, while
>other ranges sounds like a fried amp circuit.  It turns out that while
>I was removing IC8 I accidentally pulled part of the circuit board
>trace off that connected pins 1 and 2 on IC8.  This trace provides the
>feedback loop between the (-) and output of line G2.  Once I tracked
>down the problem I was able to reconnect pins 1 and 2 and then
>everything in single mode worked great.  What I conclude from this is
>that the K5 in single mode is splitting different ranges of the
>keyboard to different op-amps.  I am not sure what K% is doing in
>multi but multi (ouput 1) DOES NOT use the opamp in IC8 pins 1-2-3.
>
>Hack on.
>
>
>--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, "antdes45dragonmaster" <antdes45@n...>
>wrote:
>>
>> Not exampe, example
>>
>> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
><antdes45@n...> wrote:
>> > Removing the opamps one by one could help:
>> > exampe. You remove the 2nd last opamp and there is no more noise,
>then
>> > noise source is not at final stage.
>> >
>> > nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
>> >
>> > >
>> > > Per one of my earlier notes,  I took out my BB opamp part U4 and
>> > > replaced it with a rewired Tl074 where I lifted the ground pins
>3, 5,
>> > > 10, 12 and rewired them to a different ground.  Bottom line:
>Using a
>> > > different ground for U4 made very little improvement in noise.
>It did
>> > > reduce it a bit, but the noise reduction is not worth the
>effort.  I
>> > > even tried 4 different new ground locations,including the main
>ground
>> > > by the xmfr, but none of the grounds resulted in any meaningful
>noise
>> > > reduction.
>> > >
>> > > Anyway, this hack is not worth doing.  Back to the drawing
>board...
>> > >
>> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
><antdes45@n...>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > > Good opamps might not change the noise amout that much. But I
>know
>> > > wiaht
>> > > > 2 opamps in parallel are doing with noise is like what 2
>resistors
>> > > in
>> > > > parallel are doing: reduce it(noise in the case of opamps if
>it's
>> > > not
>> > > > series, I've read this somewhere)
>> > > >
>> > > > antdes45@n... a \ufffdcrit:
>> > > >
>> > > > > Well, in my case, the mixer is pretty niosy too(A Kawai MX8R
>> > > mixer
>> > > > > from the same year), and I've never found Multi louder than
>Single
>> > > nor
>> > > > > Singles louder than Multi, nor that Mix is more noisy than
>> > > > > Singles(Tried with VU meter too, maybe it's the same for you
>since
>> > > you
>> > > > > changed your opamps, but maybe you haven't changed the 4
>opamps
>> > > as I
>> > > > > did). I've already plugged the K5 directly in the SBLive
>line
>> > > in(Which
>> > > > > is -90dB), but obtained a -46dB at the volume I get a -90dB
>> > > without
>> > > > > source on the SoundForge VU Meter.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > It's pretty noisy I know it, idtheory.com has a 6MB MP3 made
>with
>> > > 2
>> > > > > K5s in 1991.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
>> > > > >
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> You wrote: "I only use MIX output and headphones"
>> > > > >> I don't use the MIX now, rather, I stack everything in a
>Multi
>> > > to a
>> > > > >> single output , Out 1 usually.  It makes the sound cleaner
>> > > because you
>> > > > >> skip one of the op-amps.  You might want to try this trick
>to
>> > > help
>> > > > >> clean up the sound.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
>> > > <antdes45@n...>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > > >> > You told a couple of replies before "I suppose you now
>have
>> > > socketed
>> > > > >> > opamps, like me", well I don't have some, I forgot to ask
>them
>> > > at
>> > > > >> the shop.
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> > "U1 if you use MIX"
>> > > > >> > I only use MIX output and headphones. I don't have
>time/want to
>> > > build
>> > > > >> > some 4 \ufffd m wires. And my mixer is 8 channels : 2 for
>the
>> > > first
>> > > Roland
>> > > > >> > D110, 2 for the second one, and 1 for the K5, if I would
>do
>> > > that, I
>> > > > >> > would lose all the 3 other inputs, which I use sometimes.
>> > > Also, I
>> > > > >> don't
>> > > > >> > use the K5 for recording or anything else, I modifiy it
>even
>> > > if I'm
>> > > > >> just
>> > > > >> > playing it when I've got nothing to do. The K5 is just a
>kind
>> > > of toy
>> > > > >> for
>> > > > >> > me(And my father owns it, and uses it rarely to use it
>as a
>> > > controller
>> > > > >> > in Finale).
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> > nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > > You wrote: "They connected the non-inverting(+)
>input(if I'm
>> > > > >> right) to
>> > > > >> > > the DG?!?"
>> > > > >> > > Not directly.  The schem show that the (+) is
>connected to
>> > > the
>> > > > >> AG, but
>> > > > >> > > it appears from the wiring board layouts that the AG
>and DG
>> > > have
>> > > > >> > > ground planes that connect in several places.  So
>basically,
>> > > there is
>> > > > >> > > no physical seperation of the AG and DG ground planes
>on
>> > > board
>> > > > >> MI-004.
>> > > > >> > > As a result the (+) is connected to this single ground
>plane
>> > > that has
>> > > > >> > > both A and D parts on it.
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > > You wrote: "What's the VCA's ground?"
>> > > > >> > > The same dirty AG/DG ground as that of U4.  The VCAs
>are
>> > > parts
>> > > > >> IC6 and
>> > > > >> > > IC7.  The ground is pin 3, there is also a ground
>through a
>> > > cap on on
>> > > > >> > > pin 5 but this look like protection rather than ground.
> I am
>> > > not
>> > > > >> sure
>> > > > >> > > if pin 3 is the third pin from the top or from the
>bottom,
>> > > but pin 4
>> > > > >> > > is -A6.  It can't hurt to move the VCA's grounds to a
>clean
>> > > ground
>> > > > >> > > also.  Note that it looks to me that the VCA's do not
>play
>> > > the
>> > > > >> role of
>> > > > >> > > traditional synth VCAs, but rather the are connected
>directly
>> > > to the
>> > > > >> > > main volume slider via pin 5.  They don't seem to have
>any
>> > > other
>> > > > >> > > control voltages so my guess is that all the VCAs do is
>> > > control the
>> > > > >> > > overall volume of the keyboard.  If that is the case,
>I am
>> > > note sure
>> > > > >> > > that a dirty ground will inject noise.  But again, it
>can't
>> > > hurt to
>> > > > >> > > make sure they have a clean ground.
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > > So here is my plan: Step 1 is change the ground on U4
>(and U1
>> > > if you
>> > > > >> > > want to use the Mix output).  Step 2 is change the
>ground on
>> > > the
>> > > > >> VCAs.
>> > > > >> > > Parts U8 and U9 are set up as non-inverting amps and
>do not
>> > > have any
>> > > > >> > > direct connections to ground so no grounding to change
>here,
>> > > but they
>> > > > >> > > have that shielding that we may be able to improve as
>Step 3.
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > > I may be able to do step 1 tonight - it all depends on
>how
>> > > sleepy my
>> > > > >> > > baby is!
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > >
>> > > > >> > > --- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
>> > > > >> > > > Pulling the DG from the boards not PSU
>board(Impossible,
>> > > without
>> > > > >> > > removing a bridge rectifier), I've already used the PSU
>> > > without the
>> > > > >> > > big brown connector full of wires for power and ground
>of the
>> > > boards.
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > > They connected the non-inverting(+) input(if I'm
>right) to
>> > > the
>> > > > >> DG?!?
>> > > > >> > > > Well, sure it will make noise, if that ground is that
>much
>> > > noisy,
>> > > > >> > > that would be like to plug a phono playing in the
>input and
>> > > wondering
>> > > > >> > > why you hear it.(Well, that's what I think)
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > > What's the VCA's ground?
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > > Also, they put two mono DACs for 4 channels, so (My
>> > > theory) the
>> > > > >> > > analog sound is passing thru a kind of flip-flop that
>> > > switches
>> > > > >> rapidly
>> > > > >> > > the input from 1 to 2 to 1 ... and the other with 3 and
>4. As
>> > > I only
>> > > > >> > > have a part of the output board, the opamp section and
>the
>> > > > >> PSU(Thanks,
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > > "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >Antdes,
>> > > > >> > > > >Ok, I still have more work to do but I did look
>more at
>> > > the schems
>> > > > >> > > > >while on a plane today. Some thoughts...
>> > > > >> > > > >1) DO NOT simply remove the DG ground on the power
>supply
>> > > and
>> > > > >> reroute
>> > > > >> > > > >it to the AG (black transformer wire).  If you do
>this
>> > > the
>> > > > >> inverter
>> > > > >> > > > >for the backlight (as well as several caps and part
>D6
>> > > WILL NOT BE
>> > > > >> > > > >GROUNDED.  Basically the DG does not terminate on
>MI-010,
>> > > rather
>> > > > >> > > > >MI-010 needs the connection <CN1> in order to be
>> > > grounded.  I
>> > > > >> am still
>> > > > >> > > > >looking at things but it seems the main ground for
>the
>> > > MI-003
>> > > > >> &MI-004
>> > > > >> > > > >comes from where they are screwed in to the K5 case.
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >2) Although I am not 100% sure, it appears that for
>some
>> > > > >> reason, on
>> > > > >> > > > >board MI-004 the DG and AG are actually connected.
>Board
>> > > > >> MI-003 is
>> > > > >> > > > >all digital so the ground is pure digital.  If I am
>> > > correct,
>> > > > >> and the
>> > > > >> > > > >AG and DG grounds are not separated on MI-004, this
>may
>> > > be the
>> > > > >> source
>> > > > >> > > > >of the noisy ground.  The bad news is that there is
>no
>> > > quick
>> > > > >> way to
>> > > > >> > > > >separate the grounds on MI-004.
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >3) Part U4 (the op-amp right after the VCA that we
>have
>> > > both
>> > > > >> replaced)
>> > > > >> > > > >has my attention.  It has four inverting op-amps,
>where
>> > > the "+" of
>> > > > >> > > > >each amp is connected directly to the dirty ground.
> It
>> > > is
>> > > > >> possible
>> > > > >> > > > >that the dirty ground is basically injection noise
>to
>> > > these amp.
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >I think we both have replaced this op-amp and it is
>now
>> > > in a
>> > > > >> socket. I
>> > > > >> > > > >plan on taking out the amp(this is a total hack but
>if it
>> > > works
>> > > > >> I can
>> > > > >> > > > >make it look nice later), and then bending
>connections 3,
>> > > 5,
>> > > > >> 10, 12
>> > > > >> > > > >(the grounds) out so that they do not connect to the
>> > > socket/dirty
>> > > > >> > > > >ground on board MI-004. Then, I will wire these
>> > > connections
>> > > > >> directly
>> > > > >> > > > >to the K5's case to try and get a clean ground.
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >4) If that does not help lower the noise, I am
>looking at
>> > > lines
>> > > > >> g0-g7
>> > > > >> > > > >that feed the op-amps U8 and U9.  These are the only
>> > > analog signal
>> > > > >> > > > >lines that have Faraday shielding.  These are low
>level
>> > > lines
>> > > > >> early in
>> > > > >> > > > >the analog signal chain.  If nosie gets in to these
>> > > lines, the
>> > > > >> nosie
>> > > > >> > > > >will get amplified in each of the following amp
>stages.
>> > > > >> Perhaps there
>> > > > >> > > > >is a way to improve the shielding on these lines or
>to
>> > > change the
>> > > > >> > > > >grounds related to these singal paths...but I have
>to
>> > > think
>> > > > >> about how
>> > > > >> > > > >to do it.
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >Anyway, I will let you know what happens after I
>reground
>> > > U4.
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >
>> > > > >> > > > >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
>> > > > >> > > > >> That's it, AG is analog ground, DG digital ground,
>+A6V
>> > > dc
>> > > > >> analog
>> > > > >> > > > >6v. . .
>> > > > >> > > > >> The kind of fork for the analog ground is an other
>sign
>> > > for
>> > > > >> ground,
>> > > > >> > > > >maybe they mean different connection places, as the
>fork
>> > > like
>> > > > >> is used
>> > > > >> > > > >for antenna too. But I think it's just a
>country/continent
>> > > > >> difference.
>> > > > >> > > > >>
>> > > > >> > > > >> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
>> > > > >> > > > >>
>> > > > >> > > >               . . . Cut the file, was 62k.
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > > --
>> > > > >> > > > Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
>> > > > >> > > > aka DragonMaster
>> > > > >> > > > http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
>> > > > >> > > > Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > >
>> > > > >> > > >
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-- 
Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
aka DragonMaster
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/


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Re: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-25 by Antoine Deschênes

Could you do a little VU meter test, with mix output if you have changed 
the opamp for it(The same opamp is for headphones) or single if not, 
without a noise gate or anything else at minimum volume? I'd like to 
know how many dBs is it now.(I sat my SBLive VOL adj. at -90dB on the VU 
meter(Software) without anything plugged in the Live, then plugged the 
K5 in the Line In and i got a -47dB.

nelsonj_sce@... a écrit:

>
> Hack update:
> Since my last note I replaced the other two op-amps with socketed Burr
> Brown OPA4228.  Replacing these two other op-amps did reduce noise
> levels noticeably.  There is still some noise but with 1)the these
> four super clean op-amps, 2)using Multi, 3)routing everything to a
> sinlge output on the multi rather than mix, and 4)using my noise gate,
> noise is really not an issue any more.  I would love to try and
> replace the VCAs also, but I have not been able to track down a spec
> sheet (or any other info on the) on them so I do not have a clue as
> what might works as an upgraded part.
>
> If anyone can help, the VCAs are part M5222L and they are from
> the same off-brand Japanese JRC company that is used elsewhere in the
> K5.  If anyone can help me with details on the M5222Ls I will see if I
> can find a replacement parts.
>
> My bottom line: If you are willing to lay-out $30 for the four BB
> OPA4228 and sockets, and you if you are willing to remove some
> tough-to-remove parts, I highly recommend this op-amp replacement
> hack.  My K5 has much less noise and just sounds much warmer/classier
> with the new parts.  I would love remove more noise, but right now it
> sounds very good and I am not very motivate to continue hacking.  (I
> do still plan on replacing the headphone circuit though since I
> already made the new circuit and all I have to do is wire it up.)
>
> An interesting aside:  After I did the latest op-amp replacement,
> everything sounded great in multi, but when I went to single I had
> serious problems.  Various ranges of the keyboard worked fine, while
> other ranges sounds like a fried amp circuit.  It turns out that while
> I was removing IC8 I accidentally pulled part of the circuit board
> trace off that connected pins 1 and 2 on IC8.  This trace provides the
> feedback loop between the (-) and output of line G2.  Once I tracked
> down the problem I was able to reconnect pins 1 and 2 and then
> everything in single mode worked great.  What I conclude from this is
> that the K5 in single mode is splitting different ranges of the
> keyboard to different op-amps.  I am not sure what K% is doing in
> multi but multi (ouput 1) DOES NOT use the opamp in IC8 pins 1-2-3. 
>
> Hack on.     
>     


-- 
antdes45@...

Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-28 by nelsonj_sce

OK - I am note sure this is an apples-to-apples test but here is what
I did.  I have a Yamaha DSP2416 mixer in my computer.  I hooked up my
K5 to the mixer and then read the levels from the mixer.

I did all tests while my K5 was in multi mode, I tested both the "mix"
output and the "1" output and turned the mixer channel on my computer
all the way up.  I did not hit any notes, so I was just looking at the
noise level, and I did not run through any FX or noise gates, I just
ran the K5 direct to the mixer.

Results:

1) With the K5 volume at minimum I was below -72dB on both "mix" and
"1" outputs.  This was the same reading as when the K5 was not even
plugged in, so there was no additional noise.

2)With the K5 volume at MAX, the "Mix" output was just above -66dB and
the "1" output was just above -72dB.  NOTE: I did the 147k resistor
hack, so my MAX output is much hotter than a stock K5.

I am not sure how my K5 would do if I used the same setup you used,
but this was the best I could do with the equipment I have.  I hope
this helps. 



 


--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
> Could you do a little VU meter test, with mix output if you have
changed 
> the opamp for it(The same opamp is for headphones) or single if not, 
> without a noise gate or anything else at minimum volume? I'd like to 
> know how many dBs is it now.(I sat my SBLive VOL adj. at -90dB on
the VU 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> meter(Software) without anything plugged in the Live, then plugged the 
> K5 in the Line In and i got a -47dB.
> 
> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> 
> >
> > Hack update:
> > Since my last note I replaced the other two op-amps with socketed Burr
> > Brown OPA4228.  Replacing these two other op-amps did reduce noise
> > levels noticeably.  There is still some noise but with 1)the these
> > four super clean op-amps, 2)using Multi, 3)routing everything to a
> > sinlge output on the multi rather than mix, and 4)using my noise gate,
> > noise is really not an issue any more.  I would love to try and
> > replace the VCAs also, but I have not been able to track down a spec
> > sheet (or any other info on the) on them so I do not have a clue as
> > what might works as an upgraded part.
> >
> > If anyone can help, the VCAs are part M5222L and they are from
> > the same off-brand Japanese JRC company that is used elsewhere in the
> > K5.  If anyone can help me with details on the M5222Ls I will see if I
> > can find a replacement parts.
> >
> > My bottom line: If you are willing to lay-out $30 for the four BB
> > OPA4228 and sockets, and you if you are willing to remove some
> > tough-to-remove parts, I highly recommend this op-amp replacement
> > hack.  My K5 has much less noise and just sounds much warmer/classier
> > with the new parts.  I would love remove more noise, but right now it
> > sounds very good and I am not very motivate to continue hacking.  (I
> > do still plan on replacing the headphone circuit though since I
> > already made the new circuit and all I have to do is wire it up.)
> >
> > An interesting aside:  After I did the latest op-amp replacement,
> > everything sounded great in multi, but when I went to single I had
> > serious problems.  Various ranges of the keyboard worked fine, while
> > other ranges sounds like a fried amp circuit.  It turns out that while
> > I was removing IC8 I accidentally pulled part of the circuit board
> > trace off that connected pins 1 and 2 on IC8.  This trace provides the
> > feedback loop between the (-) and output of line G2.  Once I tracked
> > down the problem I was able to reconnect pins 1 and 2 and then
> > everything in single mode worked great.  What I conclude from this is
> > that the K5 in single mode is splitting different ranges of the
> > keyboard to different op-amps.  I am not sure what K% is doing in
> > multi but multi (ouput 1) DOES NOT use the opamp in IC8 pins 1-2-3. 
> >
> > Hack on.     
> >     
> 
> 
> -- 
> antdes45@n...

RE: [k5synth] Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-10-28 by antdes45@netscape.net

My mixer plugged to the line in gives me -55 and my K5 plugged to the line in gives me -55 too. I did the 147k hack but with 150k ones, I got a problem: the last 1/12 boosts the volume x3, and when I switch up and down from the 11/12 to the 12/12 part, I hear a pop between them(BTW it doesn't distort, except for crappy low W headphones.

"nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@...> wrote:

>
>OK - I am note sure this is an apples-to-apples test but here is what
>I did.  I have a Yamaha DSP2416 mixer in my computer.  I hooked up my
>K5 to the mixer and then read the levels from the mixer.
>
>I did all tests while my K5 was in multi mode, I tested both the "mix"
>output and the "1" output and turned the mixer channel on my computer
>all the way up.  I did not hit any notes, so I was just looking at the
>noise level, and I did not run through any FX or noise gates, I just
>ran the K5 direct to the mixer.
>
>Results:
>
>1) With the K5 volume at minimum I was below -72dB on both "mix" and
>"1" outputs.  This was the same reading as when the K5 was not even
>plugged in, so there was no additional noise.
>
>2)With the K5 volume at MAX, the "Mix" output was just above -66dB and
>the "1" output was just above -72dB.  NOTE: I did the 147k resistor
>hack, so my MAX output is much hotter than a stock K5.
>
>I am not sure how my K5 would do if I used the same setup you used,
>but this was the best I could do with the equipment I have.  I hope
>this helps.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@n...> wrote:
>> Could you do a little VU meter test, with mix output if you have
>changed
>> the opamp for it(The same opamp is for headphones) or single if not,
>> without a noise gate or anything else at minimum volume? I'd like to
>> know how many dBs is it now.(I sat my SBLive VOL adj. at -90dB on
>the VU
>> meter(Software) without anything plugged in the Live, then plugged the
>> K5 in the Line In and i got a -47dB.
>>
>> nelsonj_sce@y... a \ufffdcrit:
>>
>> >
>> > Hack update:
>> > Since my last note I replaced the other two op-amps with socketed Burr
>> > Brown OPA4228.  Replacing these two other op-amps did reduce noise
>> > levels noticeably.  There is still some noise but with 1)the these
>> > four super clean op-amps, 2)using Multi, 3)routing everything to a
>> > sinlge output on the multi rather than mix, and 4)using my noise gate,
>> > noise is really not an issue any more.  I would love to try and
>> > replace the VCAs also, but I have not been able to track down a spec
>> > sheet (or any other info on the) on them so I do not have a clue as
>> > what might works as an upgraded part.
>> >
>> > If anyone can help, the VCAs are part M5222L and they are from
>> > the same off-brand Japanese JRC company that is used elsewhere in the
>> > K5.  If anyone can help me with details on the M5222Ls I will see if I
>> > can find a replacement parts.
>> >
>> > My bottom line: If you are willing to lay-out $30 for the four BB
>> > OPA4228 and sockets, and you if you are willing to remove some
>> > tough-to-remove parts, I highly recommend this op-amp replacement
>> > hack.  My K5 has much less noise and just sounds much warmer/classier
>> > with the new parts.  I would love remove more noise, but right now it
>> > sounds very good and I am not very motivate to continue hacking.  (I
>> > do still plan on replacing the headphone circuit though since I
>> > already made the new circuit and all I have to do is wire it up.)
>> >
>> > An interesting aside:  After I did the latest op-amp replacement,
>> > everything sounded great in multi, but when I went to single I had
>> > serious problems.  Various ranges of the keyboard worked fine, while
>> > other ranges sounds like a fried amp circuit.  It turns out that while
>> > I was removing IC8 I accidentally pulled part of the circuit board
>> > trace off that connected pins 1 and 2 on IC8.  This trace provides the
>> > feedback loop between the (-) and output of line G2.  Once I tracked
>> > down the problem I was able to reconnect pins 1 and 2 and then
>> > everything in single mode worked great.  What I conclude from this is
>> > that the K5 in single mode is splitting different ranges of the
>> > keyboard to different op-amps.  I am not sure what K% is doing in
>> > multi but multi (ouput 1) DOES NOT use the opamp in IC8 pins 1-2-3.
>> >
>> > Hack on.
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> antdes45@n...
>
>
>
>


-- 
Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
aka DragonMaster
http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/


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Re: Notes on Schems...update on grounding experiment

2004-11-11 by antdes45dragonmaster

Also, I get some -47 when the volume isn't even at max. So I'll give a
try to these OPA4228, and the 2 chan version in some preamps and DACs.

--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, antdes45@n... wrote:
> My mixer plugged to the line in gives me -55 and my K5 plugged to
the line in gives me -55 too. I did the 147k hack but with 150k ones,
I got a problem: the last 1/12 boosts the volume x3, and when I switch
up and down from the 11/12 to the 12/12 part, I hear a pop between
them(BTW it doesn't distort, except for crappy low W headphones.
> 
> "nelsonj_sce" <nelsonj_sce@y...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >OK - I am note sure this is an apples-to-apples test but here is what
> >I did.  I have a Yamaha DSP2416 mixer in my computer.  I hooked up my
> >K5 to the mixer and then read the levels from the mixer.
> >
> >I did all tests while my K5 was in multi mode, I tested both the "mix"
> >output and the "1" output and turned the mixer channel on my computer
> >all the way up.  I did not hit any notes, so I was just looking at the
> >noise level, and I did not run through any FX or noise gates, I just
> >ran the K5 direct to the mixer.
> >
> >Results:
> >
> >1) With the K5 volume at minimum I was below -72dB on both "mix" and
> >"1" outputs.  This was the same reading as when the K5 was not even
> >plugged in, so there was no additional noise.
> >
> >2)With the K5 volume at MAX, the "Mix" output was just above -66dB and
> >the "1" output was just above -72dB.  NOTE: I did the 147k resistor
> >hack, so my MAX output is much hotter than a stock K5.
> >
> >I am not sure how my K5 would do if I used the same setup you used,
> >but this was the best I could do with the equipment I have.  I hope
> >this helps.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In k5synth@yahoogroups.com, Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@n...>
wrote:
> >> Could you do a little VU meter test, with mix output if you have
> >changed
> >> the opamp for it(The same opamp is for headphones) or single if not,
> >> without a noise gate or anything else at minimum volume? I'd like to
> >> know how many dBs is it now.(I sat my SBLive VOL adj. at -90dB on
> >the VU
> >> meter(Software) without anything plugged in the Live, then
plugged the
> >> K5 in the Line In and i got a -47dB.
> >>
> >> nelsonj_sce@y... a écrit:
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Hack update:
> >> > Since my last note I replaced the other two op-amps with
socketed Burr
> >> > Brown OPA4228.  Replacing these two other op-amps did reduce noise
> >> > levels noticeably.  There is still some noise but with 1)the these
> >> > four super clean op-amps, 2)using Multi, 3)routing everything to a
> >> > sinlge output on the multi rather than mix, and 4)using my
noise gate,
> >> > noise is really not an issue any more.  I would love to try and
> >> > replace the VCAs also, but I have not been able to track down a
spec
> >> > sheet (or any other info on the) on them so I do not have a clue as
> >> > what might works as an upgraded part.
> >> >
> >> > If anyone can help, the VCAs are part M5222L and they are from
> >> > the same off-brand Japanese JRC company that is used elsewhere
in the
> >> > K5.  If anyone can help me with details on the M5222Ls I will
see if I
> >> > can find a replacement parts.
> >> >
> >> > My bottom line: If you are willing to lay-out $30 for the four BB
> >> > OPA4228 and sockets, and you if you are willing to remove some
> >> > tough-to-remove parts, I highly recommend this op-amp replacement
> >> > hack.  My K5 has much less noise and just sounds much
warmer/classier
> >> > with the new parts.  I would love remove more noise, but right
now it
> >> > sounds very good and I am not very motivate to continue
hacking.  (I
> >> > do still plan on replacing the headphone circuit though since I
> >> > already made the new circuit and all I have to do is wire it up.)
> >> >
> >> > An interesting aside:  After I did the latest op-amp replacement,
> >> > everything sounded great in multi, but when I went to single I had
> >> > serious problems.  Various ranges of the keyboard worked fine,
while
> >> > other ranges sounds like a fried amp circuit.  It turns out
that while
> >> > I was removing IC8 I accidentally pulled part of the circuit board
> >> > trace off that connected pins 1 and 2 on IC8.  This trace
provides the
> >> > feedback loop between the (-) and output of line G2.  Once I
tracked
> >> > down the problem I was able to reconnect pins 1 and 2 and then
> >> > everything in single mode worked great.  What I conclude from
this is
> >> > that the K5 in single mode is splitting different ranges of the
> >> > keyboard to different op-amps.  I am not sure what K% is doing in
> >> > multi but multi (ouput 1) DOES NOT use the opamp in IC8 pins 1-2-3.
> >> >
> >> > Hack on.
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> antdes45@n...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Antoine Deschênes
> aka DragonMaster
> http://thehotcom.deep-ice.com/
> Files:http://angelfire.com/ca7/hotcomcenter/
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
http://isp.netscape.com/register
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> 
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
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