MOTM

More on woodworking:
If your cabinet is going to have a back rout about 3/4 along the 
back edge 3/8 deep, put the sides together and make the back to 
fit.  You can do the same thing for the sides but it is more 
difficult to conceal the edge of the plywood (if you use plywood.)
Any joinery of this sort will greatly add to the strength of the 
cabinet.
Using metal L brackets is a good idea.  
You can buy edgebanding tape (which is really more like a veneer 
with a hot glue applied.)  You can also make your own with strips of 
hardwood anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4.  I think this is what Moe was 
suggesting.
I don't think you can dovetail plywood.  All the dovetailing we've 
done is on drawers.  We usually use 3/4 solid oak for drawer sides 
and 1/4 oak plywood for drawer bottoms in a groove.  This is 
overkill!
My cabinet is a monster and is not meant to be portable.  It is 5 
rows of 34U each, the center row is vertical.  The row above the 
center tilts 7.5 degrees, the top row tilts 15 degrees.  The row 
below the center tilts 15 degrees, the bottom row tilts 30 degrees.
I used cherry veneer plywood with solid cherry for the edges.
I used cheap pine plywood for internal bracing and to hold Stooge 
Larry's module mounting strips.  My power supply is external and 
mounted in a 4 space SKB case.
The cabinet is meant to be the same width as the Yamaha KX88 
keyboard I have.  The whole thing sits on a stand made out of 
aluminum handrail and is on wheels.  (pictures soon!)