Discussion about the Korg PolySix synthesizer

Hi folks!

I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in the context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since they would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in spec but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop around and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!

Where do you live where you can source all those parts locally?
Man... that must be nice!

Sorry, for not having an actual answer for you though.

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 5:08 AM, ML <f115@rocketmail.com> wrote:
> Hi folks!
>
> I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in the context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since they would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in spec but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop around and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>



-- 
.sig
-Chromatest J. Pantsmaker
http://www.chromatest.net

For decent coin, too? I was thinking the same thing.

--- On Thu, 5/27/10, Chromatest J. Pantsmaker <chromatest@azburners.org> wrote:

From: Chromatest J. Pantsmaker <chromatest@azburners.org>
Subject: Re: [PolySix] [Group Buy PCBs]
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, May 27, 2010, 1:11 PM







 



  


    
      
      
      Where do you live where you can source all those parts locally?

Man... that must be nice!



Sorry, for not having an actual answer for you though.



On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 5:08 AM, ML <f115@rocketmail.com> wrote:

> Hi folks!

>

> I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in the context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since they would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in spec but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop around and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!

>

>

>

> ------------------------------------

>

> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>



-- 

.sig

-Chromatest J. Pantsmaker

http://www.chromatest.net



    
     

    
    


 



  






      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I think you are going to be more than fine with 1/2 watt.

j

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 10:23 AM, fire sine <seekwhensir@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
> For decent coin, too? I was thinking the same thing.
>
> --- On Thu, 5/27/10, Chromatest J. Pantsmaker <chromatest@azburners.org<chromatest%40azburners.org>>
> wrote:
>
> From: Chromatest J. Pantsmaker <chromatest@azburners.org<chromatest%40azburners.org>
> >
> Subject: Re: [PolySix] [Group Buy PCBs]
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Thursday, May 27, 2010, 1:11 PM
>
>
>
> Where do you live where you can source all those parts locally?
>
> Man... that must be nice!
>
> Sorry, for not having an actual answer for you though.
>
>
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 5:08 AM, ML <f115@rocketmail.com<f115%40rocketmail.com>>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi folks!
>
> >
>
> > I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying
> to get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from
> online suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W
> critical in the context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I
> could go 1W as well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts
> on 1/2W since they would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer
> is to keep it in spec but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may
> just have to shop around and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > ------------------------------------
>
> >
>
> > PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups
> Links
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> --
>
> .sig
>
> -Chromatest J. Pantsmaker
>
> http://www.chromatest.net
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

I think the most important thing to focus on is making sure these are 1%
metal film types and of accurate value. This particular series (E96) is
sometime difficult to get in anything but 0.6W rating. However, as the
circuit is handling extremely low currents I have gotten away with 1/4w
types with no smell of burning or heat! (See the Farnell parts list) You
will also find 0.6/0.5W resistor quite large!

Happy soldering,
Andy


On 27/05/2010 13:08, "ML" <f115@rocketmail.com> wrote:

>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
> I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to
> get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online
> suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in the
> context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as
> well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since they
> would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in spec
> but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop around
> and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
> 
>  
>    
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for all the replies everyone :) Glad to hear the 0.5W is worth the risk. I figured it would be OK but I had to ask.

I'm in Toronto, Canada. We have a good handful of component suppliers here so a lot of what's on this parts list is available. It just depends on the project. There are also some obsolete parts here that have equivalents that can be had for a far less money. Some of those can be purchased locally too. 

There are definitely some road blocks though. The 5514 SRAM was one such part. I had to get that separately. No doubt I'll find some others that are going to be problematic.I'm just taking it step by step. I get slammed with duty from Digikey / Mouser / etc. so I always have to go through this to minimize what's being imported.

Incidentally ~ is anyone running a completed Jed/Andy PCB? There must be some of you out there. It's been a bit quiet considering ...









________________________________

From: Andrew Jury <andy@networkjabber.com>
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, May 27, 2010 12:46:00 PM
Subject: Re: [PolySix] [Group Buy PCBs]

   
Hello,

I think the most important thing to focus on is making sure these are 1%
metal film types and of accurate value. This particular series (E96) is
sometime difficult to get in anything but 0.6W rating. However, as the
circuit is handling extremely low currents I have gotten away with 1/4w
types with no smell of burning or heat! (See the Farnell parts list) You
will also find 0.6/0.5W resistor quite large!

Happy soldering,
Andy

On 27/05/2010 13:08, "ML" <f115@rocketmail.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
> I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to
> get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online
> suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in the
> context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as
> well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since they
> would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in spec
> but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop around
> and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

I have a working one and I am currently building another 8! Does that
count?! 

Cheers,
Andy


On 27/05/2010 21:45, "M Ll" <f115@rocketmail.com> wrote:

>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> Thanks for all the replies everyone :) Glad to hear the 0.5W is worth the
> risk. I figured it would be OK but I had to ask.
> 
> I'm in Toronto, Canada. We have a good handful of component suppliers here so
> a lot of what's on this parts list is available. It just depends on the
> project. There are also some obsolete parts here that have equivalents that
> can be had for a far less money. Some of those can be purchased locally too.
> 
> There are definitely some road blocks though. The 5514 SRAM was one such part.
> I had to get that separately. No doubt I'll find some others that are going to
> be problematic.I'm just taking it step by step. I get slammed with duty from
> Digikey / Mouser / etc. so I always have to go through this to minimize what's
> being imported.
> 
> Incidentally ~ is anyone running a completed Jed/Andy PCB? There must be some
> of you out there. It's been a bit quiet considering ...
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Andrew Jury <andy@networkjabber.com <mailto:andy%40networkjabber.com> >
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thu, May 27, 2010 12:46:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [PolySix] [Group Buy PCBs]
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I think the most important thing to focus on is making sure these are 1%
> metal film types and of accurate value. This particular series (E96) is
> sometime difficult to get in anything but 0.6W rating. However, as the
> circuit is handling extremely low currents I have gotten away with 1/4w
> types with no smell of burning or heat! (See the Farnell parts list) You
> will also find 0.6/0.5W resistor quite large!
> 
> Happy soldering,
> Andy
> 
> On 27/05/2010 13:08, "ML" <f115@rocketmail.com <mailto:f115%40rocketmail.com>
> > wrote:
> 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > Hi folks!
>> > 
>> > I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to
>> > get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online
>> > suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in
>> the
>> > context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as
>> > well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since
>> they
>> > would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in
>> spec
>> > but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop
>> around
>> > and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  
>    
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ha! No! I knew you would have a small squad of working PCBs under your belt :p
Though any field notes would be helpful if you come across anything new :)

///m





________________________________

From: Andrew Jury <andy@networkjabber.com>
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, May 27, 2010 3:55:03 PM
Subject: Re: [PolySix] [Group Buy PCBs]

   
Hi,

I have a working one and I am currently building another 8! Does that
count?! 

Cheers,
Andy

On 27/05/2010 21:45, "M Ll" <f115@rocketmail.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the replies everyone :) Glad to hear the 0.5W is worth the
> risk. I figured it would be OK but I had to ask.
> 
> I'm in Toronto, Canada. We have a good handful of component suppliers here so
> a lot of what's on this parts list is available. It just depends on the
> project. There are also some obsolete parts here that have equivalents that
> can be had for a far less money. Some of those can be purchased locally too.
> 
> There are definitely some road blocks though. The 5514 SRAM was one such part.
> I had to get that separately. No doubt I'll find some others that are going to
> be problematic.I'm just taking it step by step. I get slammed with duty from
> Digikey / Mouser / etc. so I always have to go through this to minimize what's
> being imported.
> 
> Incidentally ~ is anyone running a completed Jed/Andy PCB? There must be some
> of you out there. It's been a bit quiet considering ...
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Andrew Jury <andy@networkjabber.com <mailto:andy%40networkjabber.com> >
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thu, May 27, 2010 12:46:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [PolySix] [Group Buy PCBs]
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I think the most important thing to focus on is making sure these are 1%
> metal film types and of accurate value. This particular series (E96) is
> sometime difficult to get in anything but 0.6W rating. However, as the
> circuit is handling extremely low currents I have gotten away with 1/4w
> types with no smell of burning or heat! (See the Farnell parts list) You
> will also find 0.6/0.5W resistor quite large!
> 
> Happy soldering,
> Andy
> 
> On 27/05/2010 13:08, "ML" <f115@rocketmail.com <mailto:f115%40rocketmail.com>
> > wrote:
> 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > Hi folks!
>> > 
>> > I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to
>> > get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online
>> > suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in
>> the
>> > context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as
>> > well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since
>> they
>> > would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in
>> spec
>> > but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop
>> around
>> > and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "ML" <f115@...> wrote:
>
> Hi folks!
> 
> I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in the context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W as well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since they would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in spec but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop around and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
>
I worked in test and new product development for 25 years and NEVER came across a 0.6 watt resistor....Keep it at 0.5

Hi,

I have another question.

You think that have a problem there if I use only resistances metal 1 % (on the place of 5%) ??? it's ok for recent project, but for this old system ????

Thanks,
PooLP

PS : Sorry for my english

Hi,

There is no problem with this. However, 5% carbon film resistors are general
less expensive because of their lower tolerance. Try and stick to the spec
if you can, but never use a lower tolerance component where a higher is
specified! I.e. 5% instead of a 1%, etc

Cheers,
Andy


On 28/05/2010 14:46, "del_poolp@hotmail.com" <del_poolp@hotmail.com> wrote:

>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have another question.
> 
> You think that have a problem there if I use only resistances metal 1 % (on
> the place of 5%) ??? it's ok for recent project, but for this old system ????
> 
> Thanks,
> PooLP
> 
> PS : Sorry for my english
> 
>  
>    
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yup, 26 in my case and it doesn¹t seem to be a series I have come across too
often (if ever) in the past. However, there is no denying it, it does exist!
Again just to recap, quarter watt are fine in the prototype with no whiffs
of blue smoke! In fact, if you look at the parts list in the SM 1/4 are
listed. Oooh!

Happy soldering,
Andy


On 28/05/2010 13:00, "Scott" <painintheamp@gmail.com> wrote:

>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> 
> 
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "ML"
> <f115@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi folks!
>> > 
>> > I had a quick question about the 367A PCB from the group buy. I'm trying to
>> get my hands on the parts locally as opposed to purchasing them from online
>> suppliers. Regarding the 0.6W 1% resistors: is that extra 0.1W critical in
>> the context of this board? I wonder if I can go 0.5W instead. I could go 1W
>> as well and leave loads of headroom but I wanted your thoughts on 1/2W since
>> they would be less expensive. I know that the obvious answer is to keep it in
>> spec but I thought I'd ask. If it's really critical I may just have to shop
>> around and find 0.6W as intended. Let me know!
>> >
> I worked in test and new product development for 25 years and NEVER came
> across a 0.6 watt resistor....Keep it at 0.5
> 
>  
>    
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Andy,
 
Any similar thoughts on capacitors? There are so many types out there, the
cheapest being the little ceramic discs. Would it hurt to use a more
expensive cap of different material in its place if capacitance is the same
and voltage requirements were met, and it's non-polarized?
 
Don B.

  _____  

From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Andrew Jury
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 11:33 AM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: [Group Buy PCBs]


  

Hi,

There is no problem with this. However, 5% carbon film resistors are general
less expensive because of their lower tolerance. Try and stick to the spec
if you can, but never use a lower tolerance component where a higher is
specified! I.e. 5% instead of a 1%, etc

Cheers,
Andy

On 28/05/2010 14:46, "del_poolp@hotmail.com <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com>
" <del_poolp@hotmail.com <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com> > wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have another question.
> 
> You think that have a problem there if I use only resistances metal 1 %
(on
> the place of 5%) ??? it's ok for recent project, but for this old system
????
> 
> Thanks,
> PooLP
> 
> PS : Sorry for my english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In regards to ceramics, Monolythic caps I favor the most.

Keith 

--- On Fri, 5/28/10, backshall1 (dsl) <backshall1@bellsouth.net> wrote:

From: backshall1 (dsl) <backshall1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: [PolySix] Re: [Group Buy PCBs]
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, May 28, 2010, 11:56 AM







 



  


    
      
      
      Hi Andy,

 

Any similar thoughts on capacitors? There are so many types out there, the

cheapest being the little ceramic discs. Would it hurt to use a more

expensive cap of different material in its place if capacitance is the same

and voltage requirements were met, and it's non-polarized?

 

Don B.



_____  



From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of

Andrew Jury

Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 11:33 AM

To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: [Group Buy PCBs]



Hi,



There is no problem with this. However, 5% carbon film resistors are general

less expensive because of their lower tolerance. Try and stick to the spec

if you can, but never use a lower tolerance component where a higher is

specified! I.e. 5% instead of a 1%, etc



Cheers,

Andy



On 28/05/2010 14:46, "del_poolp@hotmail.com <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com>

" <del_poolp@hotmail.com <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com> > wrote:



> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> Hi,

> 

> I have another question.

> 

> You think that have a problem there if I use only resistances metal 1 %

(on

> the place of 5%) ??? it's ok for recent project, but for this old system

????

> 

> Thanks,

> PooLP

> 

> PS : Sorry for my english

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





    
     

    
    


 



  






      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Don,

Here¹s what I¹ll using for my boards this summer! I have chosen the
following types because they are reasonably easy to get straight off the peg
and are the latter day equivalents of what were originally used in the
design. (Is this sounding like a fashion show?!)

1. Use ceramic discs for low voltage supply rail/signal decoupling, i.e.
C4,C20,C22-23,C31,C36-43
2. Use plastic film or polyester types instead of the old mylars used in the
original board. The polyester ones are C9,C24. The plastic films ones almost
exclusively 0.047uF!
3. Use aluminium electrolytic types with a tolerance of 20%

I don¹t know how the other members feel and this might be a contentious
issue, but DO NOT use tantalum bead capacitors. The legs come off, they
shift value and blow up if incorrectly polarised. Nasty little things!

For more details on the types used see the Farnell parts list on Jed¹s site.

Hope this helps!
Andy


On 28/05/2010 16:56, "backshall1 (dsl)" <backshall1@bellsouth.net> wrote:

>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> Hi Andy,
>  
> Any similar thoughts on capacitors? There are so many types out there, the
> cheapest being the little ceramic discs. Would it hurt to use a more
> expensive cap of different material in its place if capacitance is the same
> and voltage requirements were met, and it's non-polarized?
>  
> Don B.
> 
> _____  
> 
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
> Of
> Andrew Jury
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 11:33 AM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: [Group Buy PCBs]
> 
> Hi,
> 
> There is no problem with this. However, 5% carbon film resistors are general
> less expensive because of their lower tolerance. Try and stick to the spec
> if you can, but never use a lower tolerance component where a higher is
> specified! I.e. 5% instead of a 1%, etc
> 
> Cheers,
> Andy
> 
> On 28/05/2010 14:46, "del_poolp@hotmail.com <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com>
> <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com>
> " <del_poolp@hotmail.com <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com>
> <mailto:del_poolp%40hotmail.com> > wrote:
> 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > Hi,
>> > 
>> > I have another question.
>> > 
>> > You think that have a problem there if I use only resistances metal 1 %
> (on
>> > the place of 5%) ??? it's ok for recent project, but for this old system
> ????
>> > 
>> > Thanks,
>> > PooLP
>> > 
>> > PS : Sorry for my english
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  
>    
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]