Vintage Synth Repair

hello,

I was wondering if anybody knows
a procedure for cleaning Arp 2600
sliders?  

TIA,

Ethan

Spray 'em with switch cleaner and give 'em a good wiggle.

  -----Original Message-----
  From: ethanzer0 [mailto:ethanzer0@...]
  Sent: 17 July 2002 13:51
  To: vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [vintagesynthrepair] Q: How to clean ARP 2600 sliders


  hello,

  I was wondering if anybody knows
  a procedure for cleaning Arp 2600
  sliders?  

  TIA,

  Ethan


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Hi, Without taking the face off, just spray deoxit 5 by Caig.. into the shaft 
of the slider  and work it. Alot of times they get pretty sticky over the 
years.I have done it many times on Arps.

> Hi, Without taking the face off, just spray deoxit 5 by Caig.. into the shaft 
> of the slider  and work it. Alot of times they get pretty sticky over the 
> years.I have done it many times on Arps. 
> 
> 
I'm sure others will chime in here, but this is a bad idea for long term
maintenance.  Anything you spray into a slider will improve it temporarily.
(As a joke test once I even showed that maple syrup poured into a
slider will 'fix' it.  Which it did, for a while).

However, DeOxit 5 is specifically designed for metal on metal contacts.
No claims of suitability for metal on plastic or on resistive elements.

The long and painful and correct answer is to take the 2600 apart, remove
the sliders, disassemble each one, clean the parts, add something like
Lubriplate to the plastic slide mechanism on top, and reassemble.

That is the only way to keep them up and running for the long term.

I'm starting to wonder about some ARP sliders that I've been seeing
recently where the resistive element no longer has a response across
the entire travel and I wonder if it's because over the years various
sprays have started to dissolve the resistive coat.  (no facts yet,
just conjecture on my part).
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

Hi, No offence but that's just BS, Deoxit works perfect, and has no side 
effects what's so ever. Your telling a guy who does not even know how to 
clean his sliders to take the sliders completly out dismantle them  and clean 
them out individually..?? please.... Yea, Maybe if they need complete 
restoration and you can't find ones on the net for 10 dollars apiece... how 
many sliders are ther????.Long term use, they have been around 30 years 
already....Help the guy don't confuse him....

> Hi, No offence but that's just BS, Deoxit works perfect, and has no side 
> effects what's so ever. Your telling a guy who does not even know how to 
> clean his sliders to take the sliders completly out dismantle them  and clean 
> them out individually..?? please.... Yea, Maybe if they need complete 
> restoration and you can't find ones on the net for 10 dollars apiece... how 
> many sliders are ther????.Long term use, they have been around 30 years 
> already....Help the guy don't confuse him....
> 
> 
If you absolutely must spray something, use isopropyl alcohol or maybe
some deionized water.  There's the short-term fix and there's the
right way.  What are the odds that some newbie will buy some deoxit
and use up the whole damn can on a 2600 and leave deoxit dripping down
inside the unit and gunked up all over the slider housings?  Pretty
good, I'd say.

If you don't know how to take care of a vintage unit or don't want to
pay a tech to take care of it, then don't buy it.  Plain and simple.

Why spend a ton of money on something and then have it destroyed
through neglect?

Just my opinion on the topic.
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

> If you don't know how to take care of a vintage unit or don't want 
to
> pay a tech to take care of it, then don't buy it.  Plain and simple.
> 
> Why spend a ton of money on something and then have it destroyed
> through neglect?
> 
> Just my opinion on the topic.
> -- 

I appreciate all of the input.  

I have considered the disassemble
approach as I recently repaired the
VCF by replacing the Tantalum Caps 
the LM301A, however, the slider 
assembly has those fold over tabs
that hold it together.  How flexible
are the fold over tabs and what are
the chances of breaking on off? 

Provided I do disassemble the slider
what would be the preferred solution
for cleaning the shaft and the film?

Thanks again,

Ethan

I'm actally in the process of doing just that.  I replaced some of 
the broken shafts and the tabs on there are pretty substantial.  Dont 
forget, you'll have to desolder the whole thing from the PCB to start 
with.

I use the R.S. Electronic cleaner with the brush to get rid of the 
dirt, then dry it with Q-tips, and put a SMALL amount of grease 
(silicone) in there to keep the slider smooth...

In contrast, I've been doing the same to my Odyssey where the sliders 
are incredibly stiff & difficult to move. I tried a Fader spray on 
them to looden and lubricate, but that did nothing except leave my 
wallet $12 emptier, so I did the 2600 treatment, which returned them 
almost to their former glory.  NOW THESE ARE BRITTLE!!!  Watch when 
you are diassembling them as the metal tabs tent to snap off, and so 
do the platic ends they are wrapped around.  Lucky for me I keep 
spare pots around :)

Guv



--- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., "ethanzer0" <ethanzer0@y...> wrote:
> 
> > If you don't know how to take care of a vintage unit or don't 
want 
> to
> > pay a tech to take care of it, then don't buy it.  Plain and 
simple.

> > 
> > Why spend a ton of money on something and then have it destroyed
> > through neglect?
> > 
> > Just my opinion on the topic.
> > -- 
> 
> I appreciate all of the input.  
> 
> I have considered the disassemble
> approach as I recently repaired the
> VCF by replacing the Tantalum Caps 
> the LM301A, however, the slider 
> assembly has those fold over tabs
> that hold it together.  How flexible
> are the fold over tabs and what are
> the chances of breaking on off? 
> 
> Provided I do disassemble the slider
> what would be the preferred solution
> for cleaning the shaft and the film?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Ethan

> almost to their former glory.  NOW THESE ARE BRITTLE!!!  Watch when 
> you are diassembling them as the metal tabs tent to snap off, and 

This is what I am most worried about
are the brittle fold over tabs.  

Is there and other way to clean the inside
without folding the tabs up?

Thanks,

Ethan

> > almost to their former glory.  NOW THESE ARE BRITTLE!!!  Watch when 
> > you are diassembling them as the metal tabs tent to snap off, and 
> 
> This is what I am most worried about
> are the brittle fold over tabs.  
> 
> Is there and other way to clean the inside
> without folding the tabs up?
> 

No, he's talking about the Odyssey 'C' clamps on the ends of the sliders.
Those don't take much abuse at all.  The standard foldover tabs seem to
be able to handle a couple bends w/o breaking (at least I've never had a
foldover tab break off)
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

Souse 'em in switch cleaner and give 'em some exercise

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Tom Moravansky [mailto:tom@...]
  Sent: 23 July 2002 15:40
  To: vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [vintagesynthrepair] Re: Q: How to clean ARP 2600 sliders


  > > almost to their former glory.  NOW THESE ARE BRITTLE!!!  Watch when 
  > > you are diassembling them as the metal tabs tent to snap off, and 
  > 
  > This is what I am most worried about
  > are the brittle fold over tabs.  
  > 
  > Is there and other way to clean the inside
  > without folding the tabs up?
  > 

  No, he's talking about the Odyssey 'C' clamps on the ends of the sliders.
  Those don't take much abuse at all.  The standard foldover tabs seem to
  be able to handle a couple bends w/o breaking (at least I've never had a
  foldover tab break off)
  -- 

  _______________________________________________________________________
  Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

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--- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., "Ron Lake" <electron@b...> wrote:
> Souse 'em in switch cleaner and give 'em some exercise

Actually, you've uncovered my secret.  I bought a 55 gallon drum of 
DeOxit.  I keep an old bathtub out in the shed and when I get a synth 
in for repair, I fill the tub with DeOxit and let the synth soak in 
it overnight.  That way, I get the bus bars, j-wires, pots, sliders, 
and switches clean at the same time.  Next morning, I pop the synth 
out, let it air-dry for a few hours and it's good as new.  Since 
DeOxit doesn't harm delicate plastics or rubber and leaves no 
residue, it's the perfect one-stop cleaning solution.

I DO hope that some of our younger enthusiasts will take this as the 'tongue
in cheek' remark that it is obviously intended
to be. (It IS difficult to type when you're falling off the chair laughing)

  -----Original Message-----
  From: tmoravan [mailto:tom@...]
  Sent: 23 July 2002 16:05
  To: vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [vintagesynthrepair] Re: Q: How to clean ARP 2600 sliders


  --- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., "Ron Lake" <electron@b...> wrote:
  > Souse 'em in switch cleaner and give 'em some exercise

  Actually, you've uncovered my secret.  I bought a 55 gallon drum of
  DeOxit.  I keep an old bathtub out in the shed and when I get a synth
  in for repair, I fill the tub with DeOxit and let the synth soak in
  it overnight.  That way, I get the bus bars, j-wires, pots, sliders,
  and switches clean at the same time.  Next morning, I pop the synth
  out, let it air-dry for a few hours and it's good as new.  Since
  DeOxit doesn't harm delicate plastics or rubber and leaves no
  residue, it's the perfect one-stop cleaning solution.




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hehe.. wow.. what did that run you?


--- tmoravan <tom@...> wrote:
> Actually, you've uncovered my secret.  I bought a 55
> gallon drum of 
> DeOxit. 

=====
"nature is harmonius in all of her workings.. and that which is above is as that which is below.."

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--- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., "Ron Lake" <electron@b...> wrote:
> I DO hope that some of our younger enthusiasts will take this as 
the 'tongue
> in cheek' remark that it is obviously intended
> to be. (It IS difficult to type when you're falling off the chair 
laughing)

You see, us younger folk don't understand
that thar humor with out yee olde ;-), or
, in short hand ;)

:)

Ethan

> --- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., "Ron Lake" <electron@b...> wrote:
> > I DO hope that some of our younger enthusiasts will take this as 
> the 'tongue
> > in cheek' remark that it is obviously intended
> > to be. (It IS difficult to type when you're falling off the chair 
> laughing)
> 
> You see, us younger folk don't understand
> that thar humor with out yee olde ;-), or
> , in short hand ;)
> 
> :)
> 
> Ethan
> 

I sat there for 2 or 3 minutes before pressing send, thinking about
whether I should put a smiley at the end or not.  Since some people
believe in the 'soak it and move it' routine, I figured I'd leave the
smiley off; that way the post is applicable to both sides of the argument.

:-)

Back on track, one popular thing to do with old gear is to recap the
power supply and other electrolytic caps.  Panasonic has discontinued
a lot of their good replacement caps (HF/HFS I think).  What are people
using now when they do a recap?
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

> 
> Back on track, one popular thing to do with old gear is to recap the
> power supply and other electrolytic caps.  Panasonic has 
> discontinued a lot of their good replacement caps (HF/HFS I 
> think).  What are people using now when they do a recap?
> -- 
> 
                             
This is high on my list of priorities
for my Arp 2600.   I can't decide if I 
should recap the PS or just go with
a Power-One Linear +/-15v .8A supply.

Does anybody have experience replacing
a PS in an Arp2600 altogther and if it 
is better or worse than rebuilding the 
original?

Thanks again,

Ethan

> > Back on track, one popular thing to do with old gear is to recap the
> > power supply and other electrolytic caps.  Panasonic has 
> > discontinued a lot of their good replacement caps (HF/HFS I 
> > think).  What are people using now when they do a recap?
> > -- 
> > 
>                              
> This is high on my list of priorities
> for my Arp 2600.   I can't decide if I 
> should recap the PS or just go with
> a Power-One Linear +/-15v .8A supply.
> 
> Does anybody have experience replacing
> a PS in an Arp2600 altogther and if it 
> is better or worse than rebuilding the 
> original?
> 

I recapped mine after a cap shorted on powerup.....

Make a note - if you smell something electrical, power down immediately.  :-)

If you replace the power supply, you have a few things to consider --
form factor, heat dissipation, current draw.  You can put your DMM
in-line with each voltage and see how much the 2600 draws (don't forget
to test with speakers and spring reverb and everything else going at
once), so that's relatively easy.  The Power One's tend to be mounted
on a metal 'L' that is used for stability and heat dissipation.  I
haven't looked at how to mount that in the 2600 and if it would be
in the way of other stuff.  Also, which way to orient the 'L'?

I know with consoles, a beefier power supply tends to improve the sound,
although I don't know how much difference it would make in a synth like the
2600.  Does the 'net folklore indicate that the 2600 PS is running at
(or past) it's design limits?
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

I basically went for the Power One approach. Ripped out the old 
unstable piece of junk in the 2600 and put in the Power One Linear 
and I haven't looked back.

I have the added bonus of having a 2600 PSU to throw at the wife when 
she gets out of order ;) (or does she throw it at me...)

Guv


--- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., Tom Moravansky <tom@s...> wrote:
> > > Back on track, one popular thing to do with old gear is to 
recap the
> > > power supply and other electrolytic caps.  Panasonic has 
> > > discontinued a lot of their good replacement caps (HF/HFS I 
> > > think).  What are people using now when they do a recap?
> > > -- 
> > > 
> >                              
> > This is high on my list of priorities
> > for my Arp 2600.   I can't decide if I 
> > should recap the PS or just go with
> > a Power-One Linear +/-15v .8A supply.
> > 
> > Does anybody have experience replacing
> > a PS in an Arp2600 altogther and if it 
> > is better or worse than rebuilding the 
> > original?
> > 
> 
> I recapped mine after a cap shorted on powerup.....
> 
> Make a note - if you smell something electrical, power down 
immediately.  :-)
> 
> If you replace the power supply, you have a few things to consider -
-
> form factor, heat dissipation, current draw.  You can put your DMM
> in-line with each voltage and see how much the 2600 draws (don't 
forget
> to test with speakers and spring reverb and everything else going at
> once), so that's relatively easy.  The Power One's tend to be 
mounted
> on a metal 'L' that is used for stability and heat dissipation.  I
> haven't looked at how to mount that in the 2600 and if it would be
> in the way of other stuff.  Also, which way to orient the 'L'?
> 
> I know with consoles, a beefier power supply tends to improve the 
sound,
> although I don't know how much difference it would make in a synth 
like the
> 2600.  Does the 'net folklore indicate that the 2600 PS is running 
at
> (or past) it's design limits?
> -- 
> 
> 
______________________________________________________________________
_
> Tom Moravansky                                    tom@s...

> I basically went for the Power One approach. Ripped out the old 
> unstable piece of junk in the 2600 and put in the Power One Linear 
> and I haven't looked back.
> 

Which model did you use?  What was the measured current draw on each rail?

Did you notice any sonic differences, or just a stable machine?  :-)
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

Todd,

The model is the 15-15-A with an output current of 1.5A.  I was told 
by a technician that I could get away with a lower current rating 
than this but decided to be more safe than sorry.

As for the current drain, I couldn't tell you right now as the unit 
is in pieces getting a total refurb!!!

Matt


--- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., Tom Moravansky <tom@s...> wrote:
> > I basically went for the Power One approach. Ripped out the old 
> > unstable piece of junk in the 2600 and put in the Power One 
Linear 
> > and I haven't looked back.
> > 
> 
> Which model did you use?  What was the measured current draw on 
each rail?
> 
> Did you notice any sonic differences, or just a stable machine?  :-)
> -- 
> 
> 
______________________________________________________________________
_
> Tom Moravansky                                    tom@s...

> Todd,
> 
> The model is the 15-15-A with an output current of 1.5A.  I was told 
> by a technician that I could get away with a lower current rating 
> than this but decided to be more safe than sorry.
> 
> As for the current drain, I couldn't tell you right now as the unit 
> is in pieces getting a total refurb!!!
> 

Not a problem.  1.5A should be plenty for the 2600.  Thanks for
responding so quickly.  Any problems or wierdness during the install?
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Moravansky                                    tom@...

Todd,

Nope.  It works great.  No weirdness, instabilities or blue smoke.

Guv

Incidentally, if anyone wants my old PSU, shoot me an email and 
paypal me the shipping.  I aint gonna use it!!!

--- In vintagesynthrepair@y..., Tom Moravansky <tom@s...> wrote:
> > Todd,
> > 
> > The model is the 15-15-A with an output current of 1.5A.  I was 
told 
> > by a technician that I could get away with a lower current rating 
> > than this but decided to be more safe than sorry.
> > 
> > As for the current drain, I couldn't tell you right now as the 
unit 
> > is in pieces getting a total refurb!!!
> > 
> 
> Not a problem.  1.5A should be plenty for the 2600.  Thanks for
> responding so quickly.  Any problems or wierdness during the 
install?
> -- 
> 
> 
______________________________________________________________________
_
> Tom Moravansky                                    tom@s...