Casio CZ/ VZ/ FZ - Pro Series

Has anyone ever attempted this?  I want to do it for the fun of it.  
I'd take a CZ, disconnect the keyboard controller, and try to cram it 
into a 2U rackmount case.  I'd do stuff like:

* move all the circuit boards into the case
* provide a non-TRS audio out
* consider a "real" power supply
* keep the main LCD screen because I don't think I can /reprogram/ 
the CZ controller :)
* volume slider -> volume knob

I don't think that all those panel switches will fit in a 2U case.  I 
want to replace them.  My thoughts are to design a custom panel 
switch system with features like:

* move all onboard switches to a set of "soft switches"
* a 2nd LCD unit to display the parameter you're selecting for edit
* I'd use a cheesy BASIC Stamp II microcontroller to implement it
* if necessary, I'd design custom ICs (GAL) to support the project

New to the group, here's my cheesy introduction:

Got a CZ1000 in trade for a video camera about 10 years ago.  It was 
pretty much ragged out-- it'd been dropped many times, and 9 black 
keys were missing.  I found spare parts on the web, got new screws 
for everything, cleaned up some cosmetic issues, fixed some 
electronic issues with the audio outs, and now have a 99% restored 
unit.  The only thing I'm missing is the volume knob.  I won't 
destroy this unit for my conversion. :)

If anyone has a CZ101/1000 in their graveyard: ie, one that works via 
MIDI but the keys are shot, I'll buy it for a reasonable price.  If 
not, I'll get one from a Ebay seller.

If I do this, I'll post pix/keep a journal as the conversion 
progresses.

tony- i considered doing this a while ago but didn't take it any further.  I
was gonna consider a simpler conversion.  I had a very very dead CZ1000
(sorry- volume knob is probably in a landfill by now) and took the thing to
pieces- its very crammed in there but controls are split across 2 PCBS so i
thought it might be possible to cram into a 3u or 4u unit.  One of my main
worries was drilling the front-panel.  I have access to a decent bench drill
but I know nothing of 'square' hole drilling- you suggest re building the
control system which would certainly get around this problem.  I would also
say that the ribbon cables between the boards are very short and very
fragile.  As for rebuilding the control system i take my hat off to your
vastly superior knowledge and determination!! good luck- I'd love to hear of
your progress.  Oh also- a CZ101 obvioulsy has much smaller boards and real
buttons- probably a better candidate for your purposes.

jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Reynolds [mailto:grondak@...]
Sent: 31 July 2001 15:55
To: CZsynth@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [CZsynth] CZ 1000 Rackmount Conversion?


Has anyone ever attempted this?  I want to do it for the fun of it.
I'd take a CZ, disconnect the keyboard controller, and try to cram it
into a 2U rackmount case.  I'd do stuff like:

* move all the circuit boards into the case
* provide a non-TRS audio out
* consider a "real" power supply
* keep the main LCD screen because I don't think I can /reprogram/
the CZ controller :)
* volume slider -> volume knob

I don't think that all those panel switches will fit in a 2U case.  I
want to replace them.  My thoughts are to design a custom panel
switch system with features like:

* move all onboard switches to a set of "soft switches"
* a 2nd LCD unit to display the parameter you're selecting for edit
* I'd use a cheesy BASIC Stamp II microcontroller to implement it
* if necessary, I'd design custom ICs (GAL) to support the project

New to the group, here's my cheesy introduction:

Got a CZ1000 in trade for a video camera about 10 years ago.  It was
pretty much ragged out-- it'd been dropped many times, and 9 black
keys were missing.  I found spare parts on the web, got new screws
for everything, cleaned up some cosmetic issues, fixed some
electronic issues with the audio outs, and now have a 99% restored
unit.  The only thing I'm missing is the volume knob.  I won't
destroy this unit for my conversion. :)

If anyone has a CZ101/1000 in their graveyard: ie, one that works via
MIDI but the keys are shot, I'll buy it for a reasonable price.  If
not, I'll get one from a Ebay seller.

If I do this, I'll post pix/keep a journal as the conversion
progresses.



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I've heard of people wanting to do this before but not sure if anyone ever
has. Definitely keep us posted on your progress if you decide to do this.  I
would love to know where to get replacement volume knobs myself. I have a
CZ5000 that's in very good shape except for the missing volume slider knob.
I wonder if there's a way that we could rig something up to attach to that
little nub that would be secure and pleasing to the eye. Anyone have any
ideas on this?

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Tony Reynolds [SMTP:grondak@...]
	Sent:	Tuesday, July 31, 2001 10:55 AM
	To:	CZsynth@yahoogroups.com
	Subject:	[CZsynth] CZ 1000 Rackmount Conversion?

	Has anyone ever attempted this?  I want to do it for the fun of it.

	I'd take a CZ, disconnect the keyboard controller, and try to cram
it 
	into a 2U rackmount case.  I'd do stuff like:
	
	* move all the circuit boards into the case
	* provide a non-TRS audio out
	* consider a "real" power supply
	* keep the main LCD screen because I don't think I can /reprogram/ 
	the CZ controller :)
	* volume slider -> volume knob
	
	I don't think that all those panel switches will fit in a 2U case.
I 
	want to replace them.  My thoughts are to design a custom panel 
	switch system with features like:
	
	* move all onboard switches to a set of "soft switches"
	* a 2nd LCD unit to display the parameter you're selecting for edit
	* I'd use a cheesy BASIC Stamp II microcontroller to implement it
	* if necessary, I'd design custom ICs (GAL) to support the project
	
	New to the group, here's my cheesy introduction:
	
	Got a CZ1000 in trade for a video camera about 10 years ago.  It was

	pretty much ragged out-- it'd been dropped many times, and 9 black 
	keys were missing.  I found spare parts on the web, got new screws 
	for everything, cleaned up some cosmetic issues, fixed some 
	electronic issues with the audio outs, and now have a 99% restored 
	unit.  The only thing I'm missing is the volume knob.  I won't 
	destroy this unit for my conversion. :)
	
	If anyone has a CZ101/1000 in their graveyard: ie, one that works
via 
	MIDI but the keys are shot, I'll buy it for a reasonable price.  If 
	not, I'll get one from a Ebay seller.
	
	If I do this, I'll post pix/keep a journal as the conversion 
	progresses.
	
	
	
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i'd rather rack a cz-1, since it can do things that other cz's can't.

the problem with every damn cz, though, is that it is a rat's-nest of
circuit boards and wires running everywhere... and even the cz-101 has
boards that won't fit in a rack case without being chopped up.

and that's not even getting into the buttons, which would have to be
re-done, and put in a highly customized case.

it's all occured to me before....
i dunno.... ~maybe~ if i came across the right (broken) cz, i'd give it a
shot, but for all the trouble, it's probably easier to save up for a kyma,
and program a cz-emulator.

i'd suggest racking an ex-800 (or poly-800)... then decide if you wanna do
a cz.

        ...atom

----------------Void-If-Detached----------------
http://smasher.suspicious.org/fs1r  Yamaha FS1R

	"Under this law (Controlled Substances Act) a bureaucrat -
	 usually not elected - decides whether or not a substance
	 is dangerous and how dangerous that substance is. There's
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	 illegal in 1986, no elected official voted on that. It was
	 done "in house." People are now in jail because they did
	 something that an administrator declared was wrong."
		-- Peter McWilliams,
		"A Closer Look at the Consensual Crimes"

> thought it might be possible to cram into a 3u or 4u unit.  One of my main
> worries was drilling the front-panel.  I have access to a decent bench drill
> but I know nothing of 'square' hole drilling- you suggest re building the
==================================

there are 2 ways to cut square holes.....

the cheaper way is t get a "nibler" tool ($10) and do it by hand....
you have to be careful, it's fairly easy to screw-up.

the better way ($50+) is a "punch". the cheaper punches (under $200) are 2
peices of hardened steel, that clamp through a pilot hole, and you tighten
a screw, "punching" out whatever is between the 2 halves. punches are made
for round, square, db25, etc shaped holes.

the nibler is good on most material up to 3/16inch think.

the punch is good for thicker stuff, depending on the material.

        ...atom

----------------Void-If-Detached----------------
http://smasher.suspicious.org/fs1r  Yamaha FS1R

	"What sane person could live in this world and not be crazy?"
		-- Ursula K. LeGuin

> I wonder if there's a way that we could rig something up to attach to that
> little nub that would be secure and pleasing to the eye. Anyone have any
> ideas on this?
==============================

i'd just open it up, remove the knob, permanently wire it for full volume,
and put it back together.

just use the mixer for volume.

i guess you could leave the knob in (for looks) and still wire it
full-open.

        ...atom

----------------Void-If-Detached----------------
http://smasher.suspicious.org/fs1r  Yamaha FS1R

	"The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in
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		-- Dante Aleghieri (1265-1321)

--- In CZsynth@y..., "Furman, Jon W." <jfurman@t...> wrote:
> I wonder if there's a way that we could rig something up to attach 
to that
> little nub that would be secure and pleasing to the eye. Anyone 
have any
> ideas on this?

I thought about it for a bit.  I'm going to try a trick tomorrow 
night. I'll get out my trusty JB Weld and make a slider knob.

JB Weld is a two-part, high temperature, high strength epoxy that 
takes about 6hrs to completely set up/solidify.  Once it's solid, 
it's awesome.  I've used to to hand-craft "metal" figurines for a 
game, so I'm familiar enough with it to know it'll work.

I think I'll measure the slider knob "tray" area.  I'll then 
construct a frame for building the part, pour some JB Weld in, and 
wait.  Thursday/Friday, once it's set up, I'll take apart the frame, 
cut the hole in the bottom using my dremel, and try the fit.  Then 
I'll see if I can cut the V-shaped slices in the top like the 
original slider knob. Paint it black, and it's done.  

If someone has a close-up pic of said slider knob from the real deal, 
I'd love to see it.

Maybe.

Tony

Here's the luxurious $100 solution (leave it to a wasteful American to come
up with this one):  buy another CZ as a back-up unit (in case your main one
goes on the fritz), and pull the volume knob off of the back-up unit and put
it on the one you're using.

-- Jeremy

-----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Jon W. [mailto:jfurman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 8:15 AM
To: 'CZsynth@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [CZsynth] CZ 1000 Rackmount Conversion?


I have a CZ5000 that's in very good shape except for the missing volume
slider knob.  I wonder if there's a way that we could rig something up to
attach to that little nub that would be secure and pleasing to the eye.
Anyone have any ideas on this?

Atom wrote:

"~maybe~ if i came across the right (broken) cz, i'd [racking] it a shot,
but for all the trouble, it's probably easier to save up for a kyma, and
program a cz-emulator."

Would this be possible in Native Instruments' Reaktor?  I don't know the
price of kyma (never heard of it before your post), but considering it's a
hardware/software solution I'm assuming it would be more expensive.  What
sort of benefits would you get doing a CZ emulator in kyma over Reaktor (if
you're familiar with the workings of that program)?

-- Jeremy

> Would this be possible in Native Instruments' Reaktor?  I don't know the
> price of kyma (never heard of it before your post), but considering it's a
> hardware/software solution I'm assuming it would be more expensive.  What
> sort of benefits would you get doing a CZ emulator in kyma over Reaktor (if
> you're familiar with the workings of that program)?
====================================

i'm not incredably familiar with either.... i'm just saying that going out
to that type of extreme would probably be easier than racking a CZ.


	...atom

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