Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

Hi everyone,
I have read pretty deep into the posts and I even just got off the 
phone with the guy at drumbalaya and he didn't give me a straight 
answer (in all fairness he tried, he just went over my head without 
realizing).  I was just picking up an iron cobra powerglide double 
pedal to complement the rolling glide I have had and I sat down and 
played the high end Roland V-Drum kit with all mesh pads and was blown 
away by the bounce and feel the mesh pads give.  I would really like 
to put a Roland pd-100 or 80 as my snare but will it work through a 
DTXpress III module?  Is Pintech a better choice?  I cant use an 
acoustic snare with a mesh head and a trigger because, besides not 
understanding what that means, I live in an apartment near where I go 
to law school and can't use acoustic drums (in fact, at night my 
neighbors complain when I play hard and it shakes the floor, and thats 
an edrum set!).  I would greatly appreciate anyone's help.  Party on.
Frank

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "fjcelauro" <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
I sat down and 
> played the high end Roland V-Drum kit with all mesh pads and was 
blown 
> away by the bounce and feel the mesh pads give.  I would really like 
> to put a Roland pd-100 or 80 as my snare but will it work through a 
> DTXpress III module?  Is Pintech a better choice?  

Frank,

Mesh pads will trigger through a DTXpress module, and many people make 
that upgrade. The only physical problem with the Rolands that I recall 
is that the rims may not trigger well. However, most people use a 
Pintech ConcertCast dual-zone with the DTXpress--first because it's 
much less expensive and does the job and, second, because its ten-inch 
size is a nice complement to the DTXP pads, whereas twelve inches is a 
bit incongruous. But the Pintech mesh has traditionally been highly 
sensitive with the DTXpress, meaning that the inherent gain tends to 
shortchange dynamic range by emphasizing loud over soft. Many people 
don't mind; others might opt to insert a pot between the pad and the 
input to give lighter hits their due. 

If you like the Roland mesh heads, you'll like Pintech's. You may have 
to flip the DIP switch on back of the DTXP module for the mesh input 
(2) to the up position and experiment with pad type (traditionally, 
triggering them as DT10/20 has been effective). You'll also have to 
split the output of the Pintech dual-zone ConcertCast pad to two 
inputs, usually input 2 for head and one half of 9/10 for rim, with 
a "Y" adaptor (TRS stereo to two monos). If this strategy is 
confusing, let us know.

Ed

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "emf" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:
> 
> --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "fjcelauro" <fjcelauro@y...> 
wrote:
> I sat down and 
> > played the high end Roland V-Drum kit with all mesh pads and was 
> blown 
> > away by the bounce and feel the mesh pads give.  I would really 
like 
> > to put a Roland pd-100 or 80 as my snare but will it work 
through a 
> > DTXpress III module?  Is Pintech a better choice?  
> 
> Frank,
> 
> Mesh pads will trigger through a DTXpress module, and many people 
make 
> that upgrade. The only physical problem with the Rolands that I 
recall 
> is that the rims may not trigger well. However, most people use a 
> Pintech ConcertCast dual-zone with the DTXpress--first because 
it's 
> much less expensive and does the job and, second, because its ten-
inch 
> size is a nice complement to the DTXP pads, whereas twelve inches 
is a 
> bit incongruous. But the Pintech mesh has traditionally been 
highly 
> sensitive with the DTXpress, meaning that the inherent gain tends 
to 
> shortchange dynamic range by emphasizing loud over soft. Many 
people 
> don't mind; others might opt to insert a pot between the pad and 
the 
> input to give lighter hits their due. 
> 
> If you like the Roland mesh heads, you'll like Pintech's. You may 
have 
> to flip the DIP switch on back of the DTXP module for the mesh 
input 
> (2) to the up position and experiment with pad type 
(traditionally, 
> triggering them as DT10/20 has been effective). You'll also have 
to 
> split the output of the Pintech dual-zone ConcertCast pad to two 
> inputs, usually input 2 for head and one half of 9/10 for rim, 
with 
> a "Y" adaptor (TRS stereo to two monos). If this strategy is 
> confusing, let us know.
> 
> Ed

Ed,
You are the man!  Only thing I didn't understand was the part 
about "inserting a pot between the inputs" so that the lighter get 
their due," does this have anything to do with the self-reject 
setting and what do you mean by "pot"?  I don't know anything about 
this type of equipment except how to play it and put it together 
(and to a certaine extent, to change trigger settings) and opted for 
the DTXpress because it was the only one i could figure out how to 
work at the store.  overall, i am very happy, excpet i can't stand 
the sound of any of the hihats, even thru top of the line 
headphones.  i tried turning the decay down and it did a little but 
it sounds and feels so artificial.  any suggestions and thanks again.
Frank

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "fjcelauro" <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
Only thing I didn't understand was the part 
> about "inserting a pot between the inputs" so that the lighter get 
> their due," does this have anything to do with the self-reject 
> setting and what do you mean by "pot"?  I don't know anything about 
> this type of equipment except how to play it and put it together 
> (and to a certaine extent, to change trigger settings) and opted 
for 
> the DTXpress because it was the only one i could figure out how to 
> work at the store.  overall, i am very happy, excpet i can't stand 
> the sound of any of the hihats, even thru top of the line 
> headphones.  i tried turning the decay down and it did a little but 
> it sounds and feels so artificial.  any suggestions and thanks 
again.

Frank,

A pot (short for potentiometer) is an electronic device that permits 
volume adjustments. Sometimes its a rotary knob, like the one on the 
face of the module. If you're handy, you can buy a 250k pot and 
splice it into a cable from a Pintech pad into a DTXpress input to 
attenuate the signal strength to the point at which only the hardest 
hits register peak gain (99%). If you don't have those skills, 
Guyatone makes a cable with a pot already inserted. The company told 
me that it should work in the manner that I just described, though I 
haven't tried it myself. I think the price is $45 at Musicians 
Friend. The DTXpress just doesn't have enough sensitivity control on 
its own to achieve full dynamic range with certain components from 
other manufacturers. But if you get the Pintech pad, try it yourself 
before investing in the trick cable. You may be satisfied with it as 
is; many people are. 

Besides the first kick pad that was issued with the DTXpress (the KP-
60), the hi hat sounds on the module seem to garner the most 
complaints from otherwise happy DTXPress users. You'll just have to 
experiment with sounds and settings until you find something that you 
can live with. You've already noticed that dropping decay opens them 
up. The hats that I liked on the DTXpress were the ones on the GM 
jazz kit; they had a good bite to them. Also, it helps to equalize 
the volume. The hats are fairly subdued. You may have to turn every 
other pad down in order to get a balanced volume from them, but you 
can always raise the overall level of the kits in the utility menu, 
on your headphones, and/or on your amp. Unfortunately, the range from 
open to fully closed is limited, as it is with most MIDI hi hats, at 
least at modest price levels. By the way, good headphones are a must. 
Look for high sensitivity and low impedance studio models.

Ed

you are a wise man!  these pintech will fit onto the metal rod that the dtxpress pads clamp onto from what I can tell.  i am not one for rim shots or hitting the snare close to the rim so to make the transition easier, I may go with the single zone.  i could save the three zone input for the yamaha RHH130 hihat pad (i already upgraded cymbals so i have no free inputs).  when i played the v-drums in the store the other day, the high-end roland hihat was absolutely mindblowing! it was like being at cape canaveral to see a shuttle launch.  i know that this i snot gonna work for the DTXpress.  is the RHH130 any good, bc it doesn't look like it have two actual cymbals?  also, these rubber pads are killing my hands and i can't do my rudiments nearly as well as on a pad or as I used to on my set.  Anybody else notice they get tired ten minutes in?  I'll try not to pester you with constant questions, and I am very appreciative.  How did you get into edrums? personally, I have a 7 piece
 starclassic performer i can't wait to get home to once law school lets out in a few weeks.  thanks again.  
frank

emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "fjcelauro" <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
Only thing I didn't understand was the part 
> about "inserting a pot between the inputs" so that the lighter get 
> their due," does this have anything to do with the self-reject 
> setting and what do you mean by "pot"?  I don't know anything about 
> this type of equipment except how to play it and put it together 
> (and to a certaine extent, to change trigger settings) and opted 
for 
> the DTXpress because it was the only one i could figure out how to 
> work at the store.  overall, i am very happy, excpet i can't stand 
> the sound of any of the hihats, even thru top of the line 
> headphones.  i tried turning the decay down and it did a little but 
> it sounds and feels so artificial.  any suggestions and thanks 
again.

Frank,

A pot (short for potentiometer) is an electronic device that permits 
volume adjustments. Sometimes its a rotary knob, like the one on the 
face of the module. If you're handy, you can buy a 250k pot and 
splice it into a cable from a Pintech pad into a DTXpress input to 
attenuate the signal strength to the point at which only the hardest 
hits register peak gain (99%). If you don't have those skills, 
Guyatone makes a cable with a pot already inserted. The company told 
me that it should work in the manner that I just described, though I 
haven't tried it myself. I think the price is $45 at Musicians 
Friend. The DTXpress just doesn't have enough sensitivity control on 
its own to achieve full dynamic range with certain components from 
other manufacturers. But if you get the Pintech pad, try it yourself 
before investing in the trick cable. You may be satisfied with it as 
is; many people are. 

Besides the first kick pad that was issued with the DTXpress (the KP-
60), the hi hat sounds on the module seem to garner the most 
complaints from otherwise happy DTXPress users. You'll just have to 
experiment with sounds and settings until you find something that you 
can live with. You've already noticed that dropping decay opens them 
up. The hats that I liked on the DTXpress were the ones on the GM 
jazz kit; they had a good bite to them. Also, it helps to equalize 
the volume. The hats are fairly subdued. You may have to turn every 
other pad down in order to get a balanced volume from them, but you 
can always raise the overall level of the kits in the utility menu, 
on your headphones, and/or on your amp. Unfortunately, the range from 
open to fully closed is limited, as it is with most MIDI hi hats, at 
least at modest price levels. By the way, good headphones are a must. 
Look for high sensitivity and low impedance studio models.

Ed






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--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> you are a wise man!  these pintech will fit onto the metal rod that 
the dtxpress pads clamp onto from what I can tell.  i am not one for 
rim shots or hitting the snare close to the rim so to make the 
transition easier, I may go with the single zone.  i could save the 
three zone input for the yamaha RHH130 hihat pad (i already upgraded 
cymbals so i have no free inputs).  when i played the v-drums in the 
store the other day, the high-end roland hihat was absolutely 
mindblowing! it was like being at cape canaveral to see a shuttle 
launch.  i know that this i snot gonna work for the DTXpress.  is the 
RHH130 any good, bc it doesn't look like it have two actual cymbals?  
also, these rubber pads are killing my hands and i can't do my 
rudiments nearly as well as on a pad or as I used to on my set.  
Anybody else notice they get tired ten minutes in?  I'll try not to 
pester you with constant questions, and I am very appreciative.  How 
did you get into edrums? personally, I have a 7 piece
>  starclassic performer i can't wait to get home to once law school 
lets out in a few weeks.  thanks again.  

Frank,

You can maneuver the Pintech 10" meshes onto the Yamaha rack, but I'd 
use a separate stand if I were you. Placement otherwise is a bit 
awkward. A separate stand also has the benefit of removing the snare 
from crosstalk across the rack, meaning that you can keep your 
rejection, specific rejection, and self-rejection settings at a 
minimum. So nothing but the limitations of the hardware, software, 
and your own ability need interfere with the snare's response.

To me, the RHH130 is a blessing from Yamaha. The traditional 
situation of using a pad mounted on the rack is an invitation to 
triggering problems and customer dissatisfaction.  It won't change 
the sounds in the module, but it will permit a more natural playing 
style, at least for drummers raised on acoustic kits. The drawback is 
that rack-mounted hi hats can go anywhere on the rack where they'll 
fit and where they're easiest to play, but to me, the left side stand 
(for righties, anyway) still trumps flexible placement. The RH130 
does not have a bottom cymbal; it's stationary. Only the Visu-lite 
and the TD-20 hi hats have two cymbals. Hart is supposed to be 
producing one, if it hasn't shown up already, but chances are it 
won't be a good match with Yamaha modules.

A lot of people have trouble right off the bat with the DTXpress 
rubber pads; some people are fine with them. One way to reduce the 
stress is to hit the pads with less force. The law of diminishing 
returns on power intrudes much faster with electronics than with 
acoustics. My motto is "Let the module do the work."  Some people 
also choose lighter sticks.  But once you have the mesh snare in 
place, you'll cut down on the pain and fatigue. 

We're here for questions and answers. It's not a problem. Action is a 
little show these days, so I've become your booby prize. But other 
people will show up, too. I'm an acoustic drummer of 40 years or so, 
largely retired from certain kinds of active duty. Electronics just 
seemfed like the next frontier. 

Ed

might have a little something to do with the sticks since i play with ahead aluminum Metallica sticks, no hihat movement than as far as i'm concerned its not worth the money.  i tried searching and i get nothing when i type in DTX?

emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:
--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> you are a wise man!  these pintech will fit onto the metal rod that 
the dtxpress pads clamp onto from what I can tell.  i am not one for 
rim shots or hitting the snare close to the rim so to make the 
transition easier, I may go with the single zone.  i could save the 
three zone input for the yamaha RHH130 hihat pad (i already upgraded 
cymbals so i have no free inputs).  when i played the v-drums in the 
store the other day, the high-end roland hihat was absolutely 
mindblowing! it was like being at cape canaveral to see a shuttle 
launch.  i know that this i snot gonna work for the DTXpress.  is the 
RHH130 any good, bc it doesn't look like it have two actual cymbals?  
also, these rubber pads are killing my hands and i can't do my 
rudiments nearly as well as on a pad or as I used to on my set.  
Anybody else notice they get tired ten minutes in?  I'll try not to 
pester you with constant questions, and I am very appreciative.  How 
did you get into edrums? personally, I have a 7 piece
>  starclassic performer i can't wait to get home to once law school 
lets out in a few weeks.  thanks again.  

Frank,

You can maneuver the Pintech 10" meshes onto the Yamaha rack, but I'd 
use a separate stand if I were you. Placement otherwise is a bit 
awkward. A separate stand also has the benefit of removing the snare 
from crosstalk across the rack, meaning that you can keep your 
rejection, specific rejection, and self-rejection settings at a 
minimum. So nothing but the limitations of the hardware, software, 
and your own ability need interfere with the snare's response.

To me, the RHH130 is a blessing from Yamaha. The traditional 
situation of using a pad mounted on the rack is an invitation to 
triggering problems and customer dissatisfaction.  It won't change 
the sounds in the module, but it will permit a more natural playing 
style, at least for drummers raised on acoustic kits. The drawback is 
that rack-mounted hi hats can go anywhere on the rack where they'll 
fit and where they're easiest to play, but to me, the left side stand 
(for righties, anyway) still trumps flexible placement. The RH130 
does not have a bottom cymbal; it's stationary. Only the Visu-lite 
and the TD-20 hi hats have two cymbals. Hart is supposed to be 
producing one, if it hasn't shown up already, but chances are it 
won't be a good match with Yamaha modules.

A lot of people have trouble right off the bat with the DTXpress 
rubber pads; some people are fine with them. One way to reduce the 
stress is to hit the pads with less force. The law of diminishing 
returns on power intrudes much faster with electronics than with 
acoustics. My motto is "Let the module do the work."  Some people 
also choose lighter sticks.  But once you have the mesh snare in 
place, you'll cut down on the pain and fatigue. 

We're here for questions and answers. It's not a problem. Action is a 
little show these days, so I've become your booby prize. But other 
people will show up, too. I'm an acoustic drummer of 40 years or so, 
largely retired from certain kinds of active duty. Electronics just 
seemfed like the next frontier. 

Ed





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--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> might have a little something to do with the sticks since i play 
with ahead aluminum Metallica sticks, no hihat movement than as far as 
i'm concerned its not worth the money.  i tried searching and i get 
nothing when i type in DTX?

What are you trying to find with "DTX"?

i was testing to see if anything would come up on the search because amp and mesh weren't and when DTX didn;t come up,  I knew something was wrong, now it seems to be working but before no matter what month i changed, no results to anything.  thanks again for all your help.

emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:
--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> might have a little something to do with the sticks since i play 
with ahead aluminum Metallica sticks, no hihat movement than as far as 
i'm concerned its not worth the money.  i tried searching and i get 
nothing when i type in DTX?

What are you trying to find with "DTX"?





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--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:

Sometimes the search engine is slow. Before I forget, the Zildjian 
Anti-Vibe sticks have some advocates on the board.

i would rather wait for my hands to get stronger because I love the bounce I get off these ahead aluminum sticks, I went for the pintech single zone snare so now how many more mesh pads can i add?  you said it would take two inputs for the mesh but with the one zone pad, its the same right?  also, i went with a stand over a rack mounted snare, as you suggested.  is there some sort of adaptor to get the high end roland hihat to work on the dtxpress?  i am ambidextrous and my hihat is in between my toms bc it is more condusive to using each hand equally and I am guessing that since the roland hihat mounts on any hihat stand, it could mount on a cable based hihat mechanism (with the pedal by my foot but the cymbals in the middle) stand that would allow me to keep the hihat where i have had it since i got the idea from daney carey, the drummer from Tool.  
 
I can;t tell you how awesome it is to talk to someone who knows what they are talking about, because i couldnt even get straight answers from the guys at drumbalaya.  thanks again.
frank
emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:

Sometimes the search engine is slow. Before I forget, the Zildjian 
Anti-Vibe sticks have some advocates on the board. 





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--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> i would rather wait for my hands to get stronger because I love the 
bounce I get off these ahead aluminum sticks, I went for the pintech 
single zone snare so now how many more mesh pads can i add?  you said 
it would take two inputs for the mesh but with the one zone pad, its 
the same right?  also, i went with a stand over a rack mounted snare, 
as you suggested.  is there some sort of adaptor to get the high end 
roland hihat to work on the dtxpress?  i am ambidextrous and my hihat 
is in between my toms bc it is more condusive to using each hand 
equally and I am guessing that since the roland hihat mounts on any 
hihat stand, it could mount on a cable based hihat mechanism (with 
the pedal by my foot but the cymbals in the middle) stand that would 
allow me to keep the hihat where i have had it since i got the idea 
from daney carey, the drummer from Tool.  
>  
> I can;t tell you how awesome it is to talk to someone who knows 
what they are talking about, because i couldnt even get straight 
answers from the guys at drumbalaya.  thanks again.

Frank,

The single-zone will take up only one input (presumably input 2), 
leaving you 9/10 to fill with a dual-zone pad (what the ConcertCast 
w/rim would have been for you) or two separate mono pads (like the 
single-zone ConcertCast is). You can't get the rim/edge sounds from a 
rubber stereo pad to work in 9/10; those require a stereo input (the 
single-numbered ones). Stereo pads will turn into monos in 9/10. The 
Roland TD-20 hat will not work with any other module, including 
alternatives in Roland's own line. Other Roland/Pintech controllers 
will work through a Yamaha module with a special adaptor, which 
drumbalaya carries. 

The only hi hat on a stand with cymbals that actually open and close, 
that also works with a Yamaha module, is the Visu-lite assembly.  I 
know that it works with Yamaha modules because I helped to produce 
it. Visu-lite also has a Roland-compatible model, too. Both of them 
are part of the Pintech line now, though Visu-lite used to be an 
independent. I used it myself for a long time, and liked it a lot. At 
the time, the edrum hi hat situation for Yamaha and Roland out of the 
box was pretty bleak.  Now, I'm not so eager to recommend it, because 
it's fussier than the ones on the stands made by the major companies. 
Besides, the up and down motion of the cymbals is only cosmetic; it 
has nothing to do with the sounds created, though the illusion is 
strong. I put some information and pictures about it in the group's 
database a couple of years ago. Check it out there, at the Pintech 
site, and at drumbalaya. 

By the way, Ed Morin, who owns and operates Drumbalaya, probably has 
more knowledge about e-drums than anyone else on the planet. He and 
his staff get far more complements for their help than complaints. 
You must have caught someone on a bad day, or the stars were out of 
alignment. 

Ed (no relation)

hey ed, i think my pintech will be hear this morning, do i need a mono cable or will the cable from the three zone snare work?  also, how do i adjust it and just what do i need to change?  about ed at drumbalaya, im sure he is the man, but i didnt follow him in terms of terminology and i told him that and he said he would try to speak english and i still didnt get him.  being that i am a drummer of over a decade, i was a little bewildered that he couldnt connect with me in lay terms.
Frank (again)

emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "fjcelauro" <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
I sat down and 
> played the high end Roland V-Drum kit with all mesh pads and was 
blown 
> away by the bounce and feel the mesh pads give.  I would really like 
> to put a Roland pd-100 or 80 as my snare but will it work through a 
> DTXpress III module?  Is Pintech a better choice?  

Frank,

Mesh pads will trigger through a DTXpress module, and many people make 
that upgrade. The only physical problem with the Rolands that I recall 
is that the rims may not trigger well. However, most people use a 
Pintech ConcertCast dual-zone with the DTXpress--first because it's 
much less expensive and does the job and, second, because its ten-inch 
size is a nice complement to the DTXP pads, whereas twelve inches is a 
bit incongruous. But the Pintech mesh has traditionally been highly 
sensitive with the DTXpress, meaning that the inherent gain tends to 
shortchange dynamic range by emphasizing loud over soft. Many people 
don't mind; others might opt to insert a pot between the pad and the 
input to give lighter hits their due. 

If you like the Roland mesh heads, you'll like Pintech's. You may have 
to flip the DIP switch on back of the DTXP module for the mesh input 
(2) to the up position and experiment with pad type (traditionally, 
triggering them as DT10/20 has been effective). You'll also have to 
split the output of the Pintech dual-zone ConcertCast pad to two 
inputs, usually input 2 for head and one half of 9/10 for rim, with 
a "Y" adaptor (TRS stereo to two monos). If this strategy is 
confusing, let us know.

Ed





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--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> hey ed, i think my pintech will be hear this morning, do i need a 
mono cable or will the cable from the three zone snare work?  also, 
how do i adjust it and just what do i need to change?  about ed at 
drumbalaya, im sure he is the man, but i didnt follow him in terms of 
terminology and i told him that and he said he would try to speak 
english and i still didnt get him.  being that i am a drummer of over 
a decade, i was a little bewildered that he couldnt connect with me 
in lay terms.

Frank,

The original cable will work fine. You'll need to set another pad 
type in the Trigger Menu--as memory serves either DT10/20 or RHP 
snare. Find the "Input Attenuation" (badly named) DIPs on the back of 
the module between the MIDI in/out jacks and the top row of input 
jacks. Flip the one corresponding to input 2 to the "H" position, to 
increase the mesh's signal. You'll need a pin or a small screwdriver 
unless your fingernail can do the trick. Feel free to experiment with 
other trigger settings yourself, but don't get carried away.  If you 
stray too far and can't get back, you'll have to do a factory reset 
and lose your user kits. (You can save your data beforehand to your 
PC via DTXchange if you're so inclined). As I said, you may find that 
the Pintech runs very hot through the module. 

Ed

ridiculously hot.  it really doesn't pick up the softer hits as anything diferent.  i was doing paradiddles and the accent on the first sounded the same.  also, there a weird foam column in the middle that props up the mesh and i don't like it and im not sure if it was just for shipping or something but i doubt it.  i think ill get one of those things you said that goes bw the input and the pad the quiet down the lower ones.

emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:
--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> hey ed, i think my pintech will be hear this morning, do i need a 
mono cable or will the cable from the three zone snare work?  also, 
how do i adjust it and just what do i need to change?  about ed at 
drumbalaya, im sure he is the man, but i didnt follow him in terms of 
terminology and i told him that and he said he would try to speak 
english and i still didnt get him.  being that i am a drummer of over 
a decade, i was a little bewildered that he couldnt connect with me 
in lay terms.

Frank,

The original cable will work fine. You'll need to set another pad 
type in the Trigger Menu--as memory serves either DT10/20 or RHP 
snare. Find the "Input Attenuation" (badly named) DIPs on the back of 
the module between the MIDI in/out jacks and the top row of input 
jacks. Flip the one corresponding to input 2 to the "H" position, to 
increase the mesh's signal. You'll need a pin or a small screwdriver 
unless your fingernail can do the trick. Feel free to experiment with 
other trigger settings yourself, but don't get carried away.  If you 
stray too far and can't get back, you'll have to do a factory reset 
and lose your user kits. (You can save your data beforehand to your 
PC via DTXchange if you're so inclined). As I said, you may find that 
the Pintech runs very hot through the module. 

Ed





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one other quick thing, i went to the trigger edit, went to dt 10/20 and then what do i save that two, the lowest number is 8 and i thought it was the snare input which is 2.

emf <liberatusvirus@...> wrote:
--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> hey ed, i think my pintech will be hear this morning, do i need a 
mono cable or will the cable from the three zone snare work?  also, 
how do i adjust it and just what do i need to change?  about ed at 
drumbalaya, im sure he is the man, but i didnt follow him in terms of 
terminology and i told him that and he said he would try to speak 
english and i still didnt get him.  being that i am a drummer of over 
a decade, i was a little bewildered that he couldnt connect with me 
in lay terms.

Frank,

The original cable will work fine. You'll need to set another pad 
type in the Trigger Menu--as memory serves either DT10/20 or RHP 
snare. Find the "Input Attenuation" (badly named) DIPs on the back of 
the module between the MIDI in/out jacks and the top row of input 
jacks. Flip the one corresponding to input 2 to the "H" position, to 
increase the mesh's signal. You'll need a pin or a small screwdriver 
unless your fingernail can do the trick. Feel free to experiment with 
other trigger settings yourself, but don't get carried away.  If you 
stray too far and can't get back, you'll have to do a factory reset 
and lose your user kits. (You can save your data beforehand to your 
PC via DTXchange if you're so inclined). As I said, you may find that 
the Pintech runs very hot through the module. 

Ed





Community email addresses:
  Post message: DTXpress@yahoogroups.com
  Subscribe:    DTXpress-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Shortcut URL to this page:
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--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, frank celauro <fjcelauro@y...> wrote:
> one other quick thing, i went to the trigger edit, went to dt 10/20 
and then what do i save that two, the lowest number is 8 and i thought 
it was the snare input which is 2.

The save to "8" isn't an input number; the module was creating a user 
trigger setting for the mesh pad, and "8" is the default user setting.