Digital BW, The Print

-Martin,
Thanks for linking my site on the groups Bookmarks page.
Frank
www.frankgross.com


-- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Martin Wesley" 
<mwesley250@e...> wrote:
> Frank,
> 
> Without your prints in front of me I really don't know where to 
point you.
> You might go back to basics and make the digital equivalent of a 
straight
> print on #2 paper which I do by taking the scan and doing only a 
levels
> adjustment consisting of setting the black and white points just 
outside the
> limits of image information (maybe cheat a little on the black and 
bring it
> into the bottom edge). Then put the file through your printing 
process and
> see what your basic information looks like.
> 
> Looking at that "straight print" decide where you want to go with 
the
> overall contrast and brightness. Then do an adjustment using a
> Brightness/Contrast layer. This may not be the most sophisticated 
adjustment
> tool but it will be more intuitive to start with. Starting with the
> "straight print" file try printing some variations at +/- 10% and 
20%
> Contrast and Brightness to get a feel for how the results look on 
paper.
> 
> Try ignoring the screen image and make your adjustments based on 
looking at
> the last print and deciding what needs to be done. Just like 
darkroom work.
> 
> The only other thing I can think of is something like the Digital 
Zone
> System software which I have never used myself but a couple of 
people on the
> list who tried it said that it was helpful.
> http://www.digitalfilmtools.com/html/ozone.html
> 
> Use your website to post scans of the prints that are giving 
problems and
> maybe with a visual image people can offer some advice.
> 
> On the VM inks, the toner always gets printed no matter what curve 
you use.
> The curves adjust where in the tone ramp it gets added and how 
wide. For the
> strong color the toner is applied broadly and far up into the high 
lights
> for the weak color or neutral in your case, the toner is buried 
down in the
> deep shadows. The density of the toner is accounted for in the 
curves. Don't
> use the sliders in the driver to adjust the color. Always leave 
them at
> zero.
> 
> Your site is looking good and you have some very impressive work in 
there! I
> added a link to your site in the Bookmarks section under 
Photographers.
> 
> Good luck and keep asking questions,
> 
> Martin Wesley
> 
> http://www.borderless-photos.de/guests.html
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "frankg_photo" <frank@f...>
> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y...>
> Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 7:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] prints looking "muddy"
> 
> 
> > Martin,
> > You are right that my skill level has definitely not caught up 
with
> > what I'd love to see on paper. For sure I cannot blame poor tools 
or
> > materials for not being able to bend the materials & craft a fine
> > print There is much to learn! Ive tried the auto levels/curves 
that
> > Jerry has suggested but usually find that using the droppers and
> > shaping a curve or sliding the levels gets me closer. Even with a
> > black point set, I just always seem to be fighting against a
> > blah 'flatness'/'evenness'/'muddyness' - perhaps it's worse when I
> > apply a stronger col tone curve (sepia>neutral mis inkset)- maybe 
the
> > toner ink col fills in more than just the density required i.e. it
> > adds col tone density plus the basic density value ? Not sure if 
that
> > statement/question makes sense ?
> > Frank
> > btw my daughter is in the finishing stages of putting together a
> > webpage for me - i invite you all to have a look at
> > www.frankgross.com
> >
> >
> > > Frank,
> > >
> > > That is pretty hard to answer. I think we all struggle getting 
just
> > the
> > > right combination of adjustments to get that "snap". It is
> > difficult in the
> > > darkroom and in digital. It can take awhile in either medium. 
So it
> > could be
> > > a craft and skill issue. If you don't feel this is the case, 
then
> > try
> > > different curves or combine curves (two curve adjustment layers 
with
> > > different curves and adjust the opacity of the top layer).
> > >
> > > Other than that you can try different papers or inks.
> > >
> > > Kind of hard to say. By muddy is the overall contrast weak? A 
lack
> > of local
> > > contrast? Is it in a particular tonal range?
> > >
> > > Martin Wesley
> > >
> > > http://www.borderless-photos.de/guests.html
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "frankg_photo" <frank@f...>
> > > To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y...>
> > > Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2002 9:35 PM
> > > Subject: [Digital BW] prints looking "muddy"
> > >
> > >
> > > > 1160 with MIS sepia>neutral inkset on EAM & Paul's curves.
> > > >
> > > > I just cant get "snap" & "sparkle" into my prints. They tend 
to be
> > > > too "flat" I don't really know how else to describe it.
> > > >
> > > > I'm using curves and/levels to set black points & white and
> > adjusting
> > > > the midtones, highlights & shadows - and it looks good on the
> > monitor
> > > > (Win98SE) but not on the print. So I go back after seeing a 
print
> > and
> > > > make levels or curves adjustments to compensate, but I just 
cant
> > get
> > > > there.
> > > >
> > > > Is this something everyone fights with or is my "profile"
> > wrong/bad
> > > > or ?
> > > >
> > > > thanks for ideas,
> > > > Frank
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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