Digital BW, The Print

on 9/1/2002 7:31 AM, DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com at
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> Message: 17
> Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 05:56:38 -0000
> From: "treadwinkle" <VOLveeta@...>
> Subject: I'll try...
> 
> As far as my workflow, well... thusfar all I do is convert to
> greyscale and export to Piezo where I select the paper and dpi.  I'm
> already feeling stupid because I'm guessing that is the most
> elementary way of doing this and there are a ton of other options...
> I suppose.  I just did what Piezo sofware suggested I do with some
> really excellent color files.  In fact, they are extremely well lit
> and frankly, really excellent files.
> 
> But to give you an example, one shot literally looks like a guy has
> stubble on his face because of the soft shadow on the actor's jaw
> line.  There is little to no skin tones.  In fact, where in the
> color file you see pores, in piezo print, it's just "white".
> 
> I'm very green at this, I admit.  And maybe my biggest problem is, I
> underestimate how much work this is going to take.  Where do I go
> from here?
> 
> Treadwinkle 

Treadwinkle,

I'm thinking that your problem has to do with how to set up photoshop to use
with the piezo driver and workflow. Also I would consider using the MIS FS
inks as they are so much cheaper and you're printing head shots that will be
tossed around and eventually out. And I'd use EAM/EEM paper as it is cheaper
as well.

I don't think I can explain the whole photoshop / piezo workflow and theory
here, but try this as an experiment.

Set you're gray gamma working space to 1.8 and try printing.  This won't  be
a perfect match but should be somewhat closer than you've been describing.

Or better yet, post excactly what you do when you use photoshop and piezo
and maybe someone here can find the error, if there is one.
 
-Bruce

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