>--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Robert >Morrison <rmorrison@p...> wrote: >It is needed to > get the polyurethane into the water solution...this will be a >problem with > all of the polyurethanes when you use them in water. ---- I would also advise you to make sure the Hydrocote is stirred very well. I work out of a gallon bucket of the stuff, and I've been super-paranoid about quickly opening the gallon top, getting out what I need, and then quickly resealing the lid. This, to avoid dust or anything from falling in. BUT, I opened it last night and stirred it for some reason, and noticed a HUGE amount of this goopy, thick, stuff that had settled in the bottom of the gallon. A few seconds of stirring immediately brougth the stuff back into circulation, but it did make me wonder if I'd be working with too-diluted material before, since I had not stirred it well. So... open the lid, stir it, get what you need out, and then reseal the lid. Also a reminder that it's available in satin finish as well as gloss. I much prefer the satin; it pops up the DMAX without calling a lot of attention to the surface sheen, like the gloss does. Seems to fit better spiritually with the matte paper also; not so garish a contrast. Also today, received from Hood, a bottle of "Fish Eye" fluid, to reduce the tendency to form air bubbles on the surface of the print as it's being applied, (air bubbles look like fish eyes). Also got a gallon of love juice to clean up the sprayer; designed especially to cut Hydrocote. Over and out. MT, http://marktucker.com/
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Re: [Digital BW] Faux Meyer Rod - first dMax test results
2002-12-09 by Mark Tucker <mark@marktucker.com>
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