Digital BW, The Print

Mathew, 
I adjusted with the GB and MatteK. I found it necessary to wait a 
very long time for the ink to dry and the color to stabilize. Up to 
24hrs in fact. 
The second point is that insure that you have the Epson driver set 
to "Auto" when you make your test prints. 
Some of the Rip's don't use all the inks when printing B/W, this is 
said to help reduce the metarerism. 

Barry

--- In 
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "carlislematthew2000 
<carlislematthew@h...>" <carlislematthew@h...> wrote:
> I'm currently in the middle of tweaking my Gray Balancer curves to 
> try and get neutral grays.  It's a pain in the ass and I must have 
> got through about 30 pages of test prints so far!!  I keep 
> adding/removing magenta, adding another control point, re-printing 
> and so on.  I'm getting closer to a good result, but the closer I 
get 
> the harder it is to do that final step.  
> 
> I don't have any PowerRIP, or RIP software, and actually don't 
know 
> much about that stuff.  Am I really missing out?  Am I wasting my 
> time screwing around with GB and printing ICM?
> 
> Also, how it is possible that you have no metamerism at all?  I 
> thought the slight metamerism on the 2100/2200 was due to an 
inherent 
> ink issue and not something that could be removed by tweaking?  Or 
is 
> it the case that certain inks change color more than others and 
> you've created a special ink-recipe that makes these effects 
cancel 
> each other out in different lighting?  
> 
> As I write the printer churns out another test page from the GB 
> software....  Any information, help or advice given is very 
> gratefully received.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>   Matthew
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "danielstaver 
> <daniel@p...>" <daniel@p...> wrote:
> > I've spent some time now creating a curve for PowerRIP that 
gives 
> me 
> > totally neutral BW prints on my 2100, good shadow detail and no 
> > metamerism whatsoever.
> > 
> > The results are actually so good I'm not sure where to go from 
> here. 
> > Maybe some tweaking in the 0-25% area which may or may not be 1-
2% 
> > too dark.
> > 
> > I've been using the Epson Gray Balancer reference chart to make 
> > comparisons between the chart and printed wedges while making 
> > adjustments. The biggest change I had to make was in the 93-100% 
> area 
> > which all printed black. I now get very good separation in that 
> area 
> > as well. After making the curve I did a scan of an August Sander 
> > photo from a book I got for christmas and made a print with my 
> curve 
> > to verify. The print is virtually indistinguishable from the 
book 
> in 
> > both daylight and indoors lightning.
> > 
> > If anyone is interested I'm sure I could make the curve 
available 
> so 
> > you have something to play around with if you decide to try the 
> > program.
> > 
> > I've never actually had the chance to see a really good BW print 
> with 
> > any type of inking system so I'm very interested to see how this 
> will 
> > compare to the other prints in the upcoming exchange.