Digital BW, The Print

Barry,

I didn't realize it took that long for the inks to stablize.  I've 
only been waiting 30 minutes or so before taking a real close look at 
the gray scales.  I have found that they don't really vary that much 
over time though, which I guess could be a result of my curve being 
so far off that I don't even notice the color shift.  :)

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.

  Matthew

--- In 
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "flyfishingusa2002 
<tflyfish@c...>" <tflyfish@c...> wrote:
> Mathew, 
> I adjusted with the GB and MatteK. I found it necessary to wait a 
> very long time for the ink to dry and the color to stabilize. Up to 
> 24hrs in fact. 
> The second point is that insure that you have the Epson driver set 
> to "Auto" when you make your test prints. 
> Some of the Rip's don't use all the inks when printing B/W, this is 
> said to help reduce the metarerism. 
> 
> Barry
> 
> --- In 
> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "carlislematthew2000 
> <carlislematthew@h...>" <carlislematthew@h...> wrote:
> > I'm currently in the middle of tweaking my Gray Balancer curves 
to 
> > try and get neutral grays.  It's a pain in the ass and I must 
have 
> > got through about 30 pages of test prints so far!!  I keep 
> > adding/removing magenta, adding another control point, re-
printing 
> > and so on.  I'm getting closer to a good result, but the closer I 
> get 
> > the harder it is to do that final step.  
> > 
> > I don't have any PowerRIP, or RIP software, and actually don't 
> know 
> > much about that stuff.  Am I really missing out?  Am I wasting my 
> > time screwing around with GB and printing ICM?
> > 
> > Also, how it is possible that you have no metamerism at all?  I 
> > thought the slight metamerism on the 2100/2200 was due to an 
> inherent 
> > ink issue and not something that could be removed by tweaking?  
Or 
> is 
> > it the case that certain inks change color more than others and 
> > you've created a special ink-recipe that makes these effects 
> cancel 
> > each other out in different lighting?  
> > 
> > As I write the printer churns out another test page from the GB 
> > software....  Any information, help or advice given is very 
> > gratefully received.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> >   Matthew
> > 
> > 
> > --- In 
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "danielstaver 
> > <daniel@p...>" <daniel@p...> wrote:
> > > I've spent some time now creating a curve for PowerRIP that 
> gives 
> > me 
> > > totally neutral BW prints on my 2100, good shadow detail and no 
> > > metamerism whatsoever.
> > > 
> > > The results are actually so good I'm not sure where to go from 
> > here. 
> > > Maybe some tweaking in the 0-25% area which may or may not be 1-
> 2% 
> > > too dark.
> > > 
> > > I've been using the Epson Gray Balancer reference chart to make 
> > > comparisons between the chart and printed wedges while making 
> > > adjustments. The biggest change I had to make was in the 93-
100% 
> > area 
> > > which all printed black. I now get very good separation in that 
> > area 
> > > as well. After making the curve I did a scan of an August 
Sander 
> > > photo from a book I got for christmas and made a print with my 
> > curve 
> > > to verify. The print is virtually indistinguishable from the 
> book 
> > in 
> > > both daylight and indoors lightning.
> > > 
> > > If anyone is interested I'm sure I could make the curve 
> available 
> > so 
> > > you have something to play around with if you decide to try the 
> > > program.
> > > 
> > > I've never actually had the chance to see a really good BW 
print 
> > with 
> > > any type of inking system so I'm very interested to see how 
this 
> > will 
> > > compare to the other prints in the upcoming exchange.