Digital BW, The Print

No, but it is a polyacrylic with added light stabilizer made  
specifically for coating signs.

http://www.clearstarcorp.com/clearshield.asp

It has a UV absorber in it...but I seriously doubt that's what making  
it work well...its simply the polyacrylic protecting the pigments from  
air.  I've used the clearshield before.  I find the Hydrocote easier to  
work with, but with slight diluting it could be a good solution for rod  
coating.  I think it could also be sprayed, likewise with diluting.  I  
used the semi-gloss product, but my guess is that a mix of the matte  
and semi-gloss would probably get us to the gloss level that we are  
looking for.  The Clearshield is less toxic than the Hydrocote because  
of the co-solvents that they use.

Robert


On Sunday, August 10, 2003, at 05:13  AM, Steven Schaefer wrote:

> Is the Clear Shield, Livick uses the Minwax floor product?
>
> And has any one used this on there prints?
>
> Steve
>
> garethlock4472 wrote:
>>
>> Found this link yesterday of anyone if anyone is interested
>>
>> http://www.livick.com/method/inkjet/pg1.htm
>>
>> Not into coating myself but thought you lot might like a read
>>
>> Gareth
>>
>> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Robert Morrison
>> <rmorrison@p...> wrote:
>>> I haven't tested the hydrocote coated prints, but when I was
>> testing a
>>> variety of of different acrylic based coatings with piezo inks I
>> found
>>> that under dry south window testing the coating improved the fade
>> by up
>>> to 100%...so this is the opposite of Paul's results with the
>> Hydrocote.
>>>   Honestly I'm still a bit skeptical of the aliphatic polyurethanes
>>> being as good for paper coating as the acrylics...but this is not
>> based
>>> on actual comparative testing...just my knowledge of the respective
>>> chemistries.
>>>
>>> Robert
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 9, 2003, at 06:35  PM, Paul Roark wrote:
>>>
>>>> jeffmoore17@c... wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> 1) Has anyone done any testing on the issue of whether or not
>> coating
>>>>> with a product such as Hydrocote Polyshield affects the archival
>>>>> properties of Piezography carbon prints?
>>>>
>>>> I've fade-tested coated v. non-coated prints.  I assume the MIS
>> and
>>>> Piezo
>>>> inks are about the same.  In general, the coated blacks faded a
>> bit
>>>> faster,
>>>> although I think that could well be due to the higher dmax
>> raising the
>>>> temperature (by absorbing more light).  The black ink in the test
>> was
>>>> the
>>>> MIS VM-K (probably the same as PiezoBW K).  The 50% patches were
>>>> generally
>>>> the same in terms of their fade rates.
>>>>
>>>> There was one other situation that seemed to accelerate the
>> coated
>>>> print
>>>> fading.  I tested one group under very high humidity conditions.
>> (The
>>>> test
>>>> light, etc. were right over a tray of water.)  The coated print
>> did
>>>> fade
>>>> faster.  The uncoated prints faded at essentially the same rate
>> as the
>>>> low-humidity tests.  I speculate that the difference could be
>> that the
>>>> hot
>>>> light artificially dries the un-coated prints, whereas the
>> coating
>>>> traps the
>>>> water around the pigments.
>>>>
>>>> In general, we've always been led to believe that high humidity
>>>> accelerates
>>>> fading, but this has never shown up in my tests except for the
>> coated
>>>> prints.  One of the criticisms of accelerated testing is that it
>>>> artificially dries the inks, with the result that the fade rate
>> is
>>>> reduced.
>>>>
>>>> So, I have 2 test results that seem to favor un-coated prints.
>> I'm
>>>> very
>>>> suspicious that both are more artifacts of the testing than
>> predictors
>>>> of
>>>> faster fading for PUR-coated prints.
>>>>
>>>>> 2) When coating Piezo prints with Hydrocote, after a good curing
>>>>> period, can these prints be drymounted, i.e., Seal tissue and
>>>>> drymount press?
>>>>
>>>> Yes, I've used Seal Colormount at 180 degrees f.  Be sure to use
>> fresh
>>>> release paper and wait the full 7-day curing period.  Also, with
>>>> trimming
>>>> the prints, a rotary trimmer might be a good idea.  I've noticed
>> a bit
>>>> of
>>>> edge roughness when trimming with a straight razor knife.
>>>>
>>>> As an aside, one of the PUR experts told me that heat accelerates
>> the
>>>> cross-linking and curing.  Heating the PUR soon after application
>> might
>>>> actually make for stronger coating -- bringing the
>> strength/extent of
>>>> cross-lining of the single-solution, water-borne products close
>> to the
>>>> industrial products.  (The adhesion of a water-borne PUR will
>> not,
>>>> however,
>>>> match the solvent-based products.)  This heating information
>> suggests
>>>> that
>>>> the use of a hair-drier might not only speed the drying and
>> curing,
>>>> but also
>>>> result in a stronger coating.
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>> http://www.PaulRoark.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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