Digital BW, The Print

Hi Antonis,

Thanks for your answer. Yes I gess you are right, its only to oder and test! Good to know 
about the date of the cans too. I sort of try to do some reschers before I order in order to 
get the right thing. It seem to be a joungle and most of them are things that has to be 
ordered in the US. Do you know anything about if Giclee Varnishthe is as arkive lasting as 
the Clearshield seem to be?

I have rolled my prints with a normaly painting roller and it takes some practis but I am 
slowly becomming better at it. I do agree about the pictures when behind a glass it might 
be easyer just to print on a glossy paper but I am planning to frame the pictures without 
any glass. 

Thanks

Joakim

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Antonis" <antonisphoto@y...> 
wrote:
>
> Joakim,
> 
> it's best to get samples and try for yourself.
> Not all inks and papers like waterbased coatings.
> And each of the myriad versions of Clearstar 
> products has a very different effect and works
> differently. 
> 
> Please also keep in mind that cans of Clearshield are 
> marked with a date: try not to use anything older
> than a year. The date is encoded (ask Clearstar for
> help with this).
> Also, you may find that the solvent based produces better
> blacks. Application is a big issue too: it's best to
> spray and best to apply 2-3 coats, but that depends on
> the look you want.
> The difference between the products is not likely to be
> their archival qualities as much as how they "sit" on the
> paper.
> For smooth, even coating, a high-end laminator is better
> for paper (but not for canvas),
> assuming you use archival laminates that can melt into the
> paper surface.
> There is also a waterbased product from the UK 
> (Giclee Varnish) that seemed to work better on paper
> than Clearstar. It may be easier for you to find there...
> 
> Generally speaking, seeking higher dmax with coatings
> is dicy. In some cases, its a lot of work for little
> benefit. If you frame under glass, for example, you may
> not see a big difference between coated and uncoated.
> And if the sheen of the coat reflects light (glares)
> you get less effective dmax than the smooth matte
> surface of the paper. 
> 
> good luck - 
> 
> Antonis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, joakim Eskildsen
> <joaskild@y...> wrote:
> 
> > My qouistion is has anybady used Clearstar's
> > waterbased Clearshield's LL glossy coating or theire
> > Clearshield type C?
> > I like to know if this coatings makes the paper like
> > Hahnemuhle's photo rag paper glossy with the deep
> > blacks following as this lack should be arkivelasting
> > (see: http://www.livick.com). I know that the funuture
> > coatings I used will not last long before it turns
> > yellow.
> > 
> > As well does anybady know if Clearstar's waterbased
> > Clearshield's type C coating is as arkive lasting as
> > the Clearstar's waterbased Clearshield's LL glossy
> > coating? I understood that type C is more elastic and
> > therefore better to use if one stresses the print on a
> > painteres frame.
>