Digital BW, The Print

Way to go, Helen!

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "helen_bach2003" 
<helenbach@h...> wrote:
>
> Joanne,
> 
> Shilesh has described almost exactly what I do, except that I use
> IJC/OPM and this is my ink setup:
> 
> K2200 = MK4000/4800 (same)
> LK2200 = PK4800
> C2200 = LK4800
> LC2200 = LLK4800
> M2200 = LC4800
> LM2200 = Krystal Topkote
> Y2200 = R800 blue.
> 
> I chose the blue and the LC after testing. R800 red is also good, if
> you like warm tones. The Topkote and the blue could be switched, of
> course. It doesn't matter to me, because I overcoat on a second 
pass.
> 
> I've sent you an email.
> 
> Best,
> Helen
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Shilesh Jani"
> <shileshjani@b...> wrote:
> >
> > Jo,
> > 
> ...
> > 
> > The best, sure-fire bet is to use inks specifically designed to 
do 
> > what you want, i.e., the Epson K3 inks. You could easily buy the 
K, 
> > LK, and LLK 220 ml carts for the 4800 printer, suck the inks out, 
> > load them into the 2200 carts, write QTR curves, and viola you've 
got 
> > the latest and greatest in RC b/w printing. I bet this will 
produce 
> > the LEAST bronzing on RC papers than any other 3rd party b/w 
> > pigmented inset. Oh, boy I hope I have not vaused a firestorm 
with 
> > that last statement. 
> > 
> > If I were going down that path, here is what I would do:
> > 
> > K2200 = PK4800
> > C2200 = C4800
> > M2200 = M4800
> > LC2200 = L4800
> > LM2200 = L4800
> > LK2200 = LK4800
> > Y2200 = LLK4800.
> > 
> > This allows you to neutralize in QTR the otherwise warm PK, LK, 
and 
> > LLK.
> > 
> > Sounds like fun, doen't it? Welcome to the neurosis I alluded to 
> > earlier.
> > 
> > Shilesh
>