Digital BW, The Print

Helen,

> <paul.roark@...> wrote:
>
>> I've loaded my 2200 with what I call the 4K+, 
>> non-blended B&W setup that I'm
>> using in my 7500. See http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/4K+.pdf 
>> With 7 positions available, I have the 4 Ks (MK, PK, LK and LLK)
>> plus full - if light - color: LC, LM, and Y. 
>> It appears to work very well. The approach
>> requires at least a B&W rip (QTR or IJC).

> I've been using a similar system in one of my 2200s for 
> over a year, and it does work very well. 
> I use Epson inks from the 4000/4800 (MK) 4800 (PK, LK, LLK, LC)

My move to this approach is obviously intended, among other things, to open
up the general approach to the use of Epson and other inks without worrying
about dilution and the suitability of the base used for such. I have matched
test strips that use the 3D (which uses R800 Blue and no magenta), the new
2200 approach with MIS LM, and the new 2200 approach with Epson UC LM.  I'll
run a fade test to see what works the best.

> and R800 (blue, diluted to 20% of its original
> strength) with Krystal Topkote in the last position.

Are you using the MIS R800 Blue?  I'm not aware of any method of getting the
Epson R800 blue at a reasonable price.

The MIS R800 Blue appears to stay in suspension fairly well in the MIS base
if it's by itself.  In blended inksets use in large format printers,
however, it still is subject to the separation issues I've mentioned before.

I'm not sure how the Krystal Topkote compares to the MIS base, but, as noted
below, I'm suspicious Krystal Topkote is what MIS used originally as its
Glop. 

> I use IJC/OPM. 

> I don't require anything warmer than the K3 inks themselves 
> give, hence the use of the LC and LB as the only toners.

The k3 LLB has a greenish tint relative to the MIS LLK.  Does the Light Blue
by itself neutralize it fairly well, or is it still too magenta?

I found a water color pigment that works well alone in neutralizing MIS
carbon.  It's Daniel Smith's Indanthrone blue.  I've used it in inkjet
printing, but it really needs to be ground to a more uniform size -- more
work that I can do.  So, I'm sticking to off-the-shelf pigs.

> The blue was chosen after experimenting with LM and R800 red. 
> The R800 red worked well as a warming toner, but as I said, 
> I don't require the warm tones so I
> removed it in favour of the Topkote.

Yes, those are obvious alternatives for the 7th ink position.  In my e-mails
to MIS I'm also recommending Glop as the default ink in that position.  This
is, in part, just to avoid there being an un-used pigment in the printer
that would clog.  With Glop in the 7th position I can keep that jet open by
having some of it used even in matte prints -- just to keep things running
smoothly.  Those who use an alternative will be expected to be sophisticated
enough to shut off that ink position if they us a color ink.

How do you find Topkote compares to the new MIS Glop and Image Specialist's
WJ 824?  I suspect Topkote (WJ 822 -- see
http://www.image-specialists.com/specialty.htm ) might be what MIS used as
its original, darker Glop.


> ... Topkote ... I found that it worked best as as after coat 
> rather than as a simultaneous coat ...

That is what IS recommends.  MIS experimented with these after coats quite a
bit and then dropped the idea.  I'm not sure why. 

I've found Glop in the printer and used at the same time as the pigs can
effectively deal with the gloss differential at the paper white end of the
scale.  With MIS pigments, that's what some notice the most.  It also can
reduce bronzing a bit.  Again, with MIS pigs, there is so little of this,
that I think Glop will virtually eliminate it.  Obviously I will not be able
to increase dmax or overall gloss with the Glop used at the same time as the
pigments.

>I switched to the dilute blue after a few months of use - 
> the full-strength blue sometimes gave a barely perceptible 
> dottiness when used with light tones.

The Blue and Red have densities that are between the dark and light standard
colors (since they are used in the R800/1800 with small dots and no
cross-overs).  So, I'm not surprised they would be a bit rough in the 2200.
I'm even diluting the LC for the same reason.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com