Oh, I understand your situation well, and I don't want to derail the
progress you've made. The Photoshop curve stuff looks more complicated to
me.
I've been meaning to write up my recent QTR calibration experience and I'll
try to get to it soon, but what I found is that with a flatbed scanner
(Epson 4870 in my case) I could calibrate a new set of EB6 inks (my own
dilution ratios) in about 4 prints, and the procedure is fairly simple.
It's drawn from Paul Roark's writings, but in my simple experience I think
it can be executed more simply than as I saw it described.
At the risk of looking like a fool because I lucked into a working
solution, here's a very abbreviated description.
While I don't have immediate access to my notes and the spreadsheets (which
I'll put up with the write-up), the first step is to choose an ink limit
for the black. You can efficiently do this with a 21-step image and QTR's
calibration mode. I tried 75%, 50% and 25%. I think with full-strength
Eboni, the paper I'm using and my printer (Epson 2200, a 7-cartridge, large
drop model) I ended up with about 25-35%. I was aiming for the 21-step
image to reach maximum black about 3/4 of the way through the 21 steps so
there was still some latitude on the darkest tones. I'll be experimenting
with this more, but this 25% result suggests I don't need to use
full-strength Eboni at the darkest cartridge position, at least for this
paper.
Next, using this overall ink limit, I printed the calibration mode image
that QTR provides. I let it dry, then scanned it (RGB). Using (in my case)
Photoshop Elements, I then measured the "relative density" reading of each
patch (green channel, 5x5 pixel sample) and recorded it in a spreadsheet.
It ended up being 21 columns x 7 rows of values but I think it can probably
be reduced by about half. I do think it's important for the full sheet of
the calibration image be scanned as one unit, because we're using relative
comparisons.
For each gray cartridge other than the black (note that by definition this
becomes 0-100%), this next step is to determine an ink limit for the
cartridge. I did this by choosing the darkest patch reading where the
change from one to the next stopped changing and then using that numeric
"relative density" value to look up the ink limit percentage from the black
patches. The idea here is that the gray relative density number can be
matched to a black-channel relative density number (interpolating as
needed), resulting in a number that ranges between 0% and 100% which is the
ink limit for that channel. Plug all of those ink limits into QTR's curve
creator, save it and then use it to print your images. To verify the
smoothness of gradients, I like using the test images here:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/black_and_white_test.html .
Paul's writings also recommend linearization, but I can't tell if I need to
do that yet.
Best regards,
Pete
On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 10:27 AM, jcphoto52
<jacques.caron@videotron.qc.ca>wrote:
> Hi Mr.Bergstrom
>
> QtRIP? I downloaded an evaluation version, installed it but... as Mr.Roark
> wrote, the Epson driver is not so bad and it's a good starting point.
> Moreover, I thought that the learning curve was steep enough to begin with
> (I miss the darkroom!).
>
> I don't know exactly what it's like using the QTRIP program but since I
> read all the post in the recent year from this group, I'm a bit afraid
> that, without a Color Munki, X-Rite, Spyder and other apparatus, I can't
> really evaluate my prints and make the necessary corrections, be it making
> ICCs, curves and ink saturation!
>
> I'll read the "how-to" that came with the demo of QTR and see if this is a
> solution for me.
>
> Thanks again
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Pete Bergstrom
> <petebergstrom@...> wrote:
> >
> > Is there a reason you're not using QtRip?
> >
> > On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 8:27 AM, jcphoto52 <jacques.caron@...>wrote:
> >
> > > I'm still quite new the the whole process of EB6 with an Epson 1430.
> > >
> > > I'm partly satisfied with the results. I made many test with images
> that I
> > > printed in a darkroom so I can compare. Up to now, I'm very close.
> > >
> > > For each print, I added a 21 steps greyscale and for easier evaluation
> I
> > > made five bigger squares in PhotoShop that I filled with (0-0-0, 5-5-5
> and
> > > so on) blacks; I added three squares (250-250-250,245-245-245 and
> > > 240-240-240).
> > >
> > > On the print, the lighter squares are perfect but the black ones are
> mushy
> > > and difficult to evaluate. Seems that from 0-0-0 to 25-25-25 I get the
> same
> > > black or almost.
> > >
> > > Is there a way, with the Epson driver (I'm on Red River Polar Matte
> paper)
> > > to compensate so I can have a little bit more separation in the blacks?
> > >
> > > I know that this is probably incomplete or not clear but if it is
> asked,
> > > I'll try my best to feed in the missing info.
> > >
> > > Many thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
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