Digital BW, The Print

Last week I got my replacement 1280 for my first one. Figured I would 
give the VM inks another shot. Posterization is still there, 
horizontal banding is still there. I've tried cleaning, nozzle checks 
(never a clog), head alignments, nothing changed. Also ran through 
about 5 different sets of curves with the same results. Tweaking some 
sets got me almost there, but every time I messed with one part it 
would throw another out of whack. 

Out of all the curves I've tried for the 1280+VM set, the curves that 
got me closest to anything acceptable was the UT curves for the 1280. 

Thinking I might have another problematic printer, I try some Epson 
inks. Banding and posterization is gone. I've read a few places that 
mentioned something about the MIS cartridges maybe sitting slightly 
different in the carriage to cause some of these problems. Has anyone 
ever heard about this? I was looking to maybe tryout the UT inks, but 
I don't know if anything would changed compared with the VM inks. 
Anyone get bad results from VM inks that going to UT inks cured? 
Thanks, time to go pull more hair out.

matt

The big thing that needs to be addressed is the levels throughout the 
image making sure there are no big gaps in the histogram.  These come 
about by too much manipulation in curves/levels.

I had this problem and went back to scanning the original image back 
in again using Vuescan and getting the image to what it should look 
like before playing with it in PS7.  This made all the difference.  
If you have BB/ADSL send me a link to a file I can download and I 
will see if I can reproduce the errors that you are talking about 
using my 1290/UT setup.

Gareth

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Matt Betea" 
<mbetea@w...> wrote:
> Last week I got my replacement 1280 for my first one. Figured I 
would 
> give the VM inks another shot. Posterization is still there, 
> horizontal banding is still there. I've tried cleaning, nozzle 
checks 
> (never a clog), head alignments, nothing changed. Also ran through 
> about 5 different sets of curves with the same results. Tweaking 
some 
> sets got me almost there, but every time I messed with one part it 
> would throw another out of whack. 
> 
> Out of all the curves I've tried for the 1280+VM set, the curves 
that 
> got me closest to anything acceptable was the UT curves for the 
1280. 
> 
> Thinking I might have another problematic printer, I try some Epson 
> inks. Banding and posterization is gone. I've read a few places 
that 
> mentioned something about the MIS cartridges maybe sitting slightly 
> different in the carriage to cause some of these problems. Has 
anyone 
> ever heard about this? I was looking to maybe tryout the UT inks, 
but 

> I don't know if anything would changed compared with the VM inks. 
> Anyone get bad results from VM inks that going to UT inks cured? 
> Thanks, time to go pull more hair out.
> 
> matt

For those of you with a 1280, do you find the lack of
a paper cutter built in to be a big deal?

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Hi all

I'm about to order the MIS variable mix quadtone
cartridge intended for the 1280 for use in my Photo
900 (NOT color 900!).  I have to use the QVM inks
because the full spectrum stuff requires the cone
driver, for which I'm not ready to pay if the
cartridges won't work! ;)

I'll keep you all posted with what I discover.  Here's
hoping the Paul's 1280 curves will work properly! ;)

...Mike 

__________________________________
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

Hi Gareth,
That was the first thing I looked at initially with the first 
printer. The images I've tried printing were from a D100, shot with 
the RAW format and converted to 16bit tif. Histograms would show that 
everything was fine, no gaps, no "comb" spikes. I would post/send you 
a file but I have no webspace at the moment other than the 10mb they 
give you with cable. Here is a smaller zipped file that I can post to 
my space though. 
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~beteahome/technical.zip
This is an image I got from another member. It contains a step wedge 
and 4 different images, I believe was made up by Clayton Jones. I 
haven't been able to get this image to print with good results. 
Thanks for the help.

matt
> The big thing that needs to be addressed is the levels throughout 
the 
> image making sure there are no big gaps in the histogram.  These 
come 
> about by too much manipulation in curves/levels.
> 
> I had this problem and went back to scanning the original image 
back 

> in again using Vuescan and getting the image to what it should look 
> like before playing with it in PS7.  This made all the difference.  
> If you have BB/ADSL send me a link to a file I can download and I 
> will see if I can reproduce the errors that you are talking about 
> using my 1290/UT setup.
> 
> Gareth

Just downloaded the file, no problems printing on 1290 with UT inks 
and a tyler curve.

Not wishing you to teach you to suck eggs but you did have the file 
in sRGB or RGB when you applied the curves didn't you?  When I opened 
your technical.tif file is was grayscale, I then converted it to sRGB 
for tyler's curves and then printed it no problems.  As a test I also 
applied the curve to a grayscale image and printed that out - really 
bad!!

Let me know how you get on

Gareth

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Matt Betea" 
<mbetea@w...> wrote:
> Hi Gareth,
> That was the first thing I looked at initially with the first 
> printer. The images I've tried printing were from a D100, shot with 
> the RAW format and converted to 16bit tif. Histograms would show 
that 
> everything was fine, no gaps, no "comb" spikes. I would post/send 
you 
> a file but I have no webspace at the moment other than the 10mb 
they 
> give you with cable. Here is a smaller zipped file that I can post 
to 
> my space though. 
> http://home.wideopenwest.com/~beteahome/technical.zip
> This is an image I got from another member. It contains a step 
wedge 
> and 4 different images, I believe was made up by Clayton Jones. I 
> haven't been able to get this image to print with good results. 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> matt
> > The big thing that needs to be addressed is the levels throughout 
> the 
> > image making sure there are no big gaps in the histogram.  These 
> come 
> > about by too much manipulation in curves/levels.
> > 
> > I had this problem and went back to scanning the original image 
> back 
> > in again using Vuescan and getting the image to what it should 
look 
> > like before playing with it in PS7.  This made all the 
difference.  

> > If you have BB/ADSL send me a link to a file I can download and I 
> > will see if I can reproduce the errors that you are talking about 
> > using my 1290/UT setup.
> > 
> > Gareth

Thank you Gareth for taking the time to check. Yeah I have about 30 
or so prints of that file trying all different combinations of 
settings. But I do convert to sRGB or Adobe RGB before. 

But, doing some more test prints and printing a few purge patterns 
with the Epson inks. I see luck isn't on my side. The horizontal 
banding I'm getting is coming from all the color inks. I've tried a 
couple more settings in the print driver but nothing changed it. So 
time to send this one off I guess. Thanks a lot for your help, I 
really appreciate it.

matt

> Just downloaded the file, no problems printing on 1290 with UT inks 
> and a tyler curve.
> 
> Not wishing you to teach you to suck eggs but you did have the file 
> in sRGB or RGB when you applied the curves didn't you?  When I 
opened 
> your technical.tif file is was grayscale, I then converted it to 
sRGB 
> for tyler's curves and then printed it no problems.  As a test I 
also 
> applied the curve to a grayscale image and printed that out - 
really 

> bad!!
> 
> Let me know how you get on
> 
> Gareth

No problems.

Gareth
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Matt Betea" 
<mbetea@w...> wrote:
> Thank you Gareth for taking the time to check. Yeah I have about 30 
> or so prints of that file trying all different combinations of 
> settings. But I do convert to sRGB or Adobe RGB before. 
> 
> But, doing some more test prints and printing a few purge patterns 
> with the Epson inks. I see luck isn't on my side. The horizontal 
> banding I'm getting is coming from all the color inks. I've tried a 
> couple more settings in the print driver but nothing changed it. So 
> time to send this one off I guess. Thanks a lot for your help, I 
> really appreciate it.
> 
> matt
> 
> > Just downloaded the file, no problems printing on 1290 with UT 
inks 
> > and a tyler curve.
> > 
> > Not wishing you to teach you to suck eggs but you did have the 
file 

> > in sRGB or RGB when you applied the curves didn't you?  When I 
> opened 
> > your technical.tif file is was grayscale, I then converted it to 
> sRGB 
> > for tyler's curves and then printed it no problems.  As a test I 
> also 
> > applied the curve to a grayscale image and printed that out - 
> really 
> > bad!!
> > 
> > Let me know how you get on
> > 
> > Gareth

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, gendem <gendem@y.
..> wrote:
> For those of you with a 1280, do you find the lack of
> a paper cutter built in to be a big deal?
> 

No.  I found a nice, effective paper cutter for 13x19 paper at 
PhotoPlus 2yrs ago.  It's now availaible here:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?
O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=17524&is=REG

The plastic lock which holds the blade in place is the weak spot in 
the design.  My cutter lasted 2yrs before it needed replacement.  It 
had moderate to heavy use & for $15, I don't mind replacing it.

Dave G.

I've ordered the UT B&W inks with PK black for my 1280.  Can someone
suggest an RC paper with a swellable surface for better longevity and
also a pearl or textured finish?  I bought the PK black just for the
purpose of printing onto RC paper for my wedding photographs but I'm
wondering if I made a mistake because I can't seem to find a pearl
finished paper that's not instant dry.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com

1) Given that the UT inks are pigment based, I question the desire for a 
swellable polymer paper, as I haven't seen data showing increased 
longevity for anything but dye-based inks on swellable polymer papers.

2)    EPSON does not recommend the ColorLife Paper as appropriate for 
the 2200 (the only swellable polymer paper AFAIK that EPSON sells)  But, 
it has added anti-oxidants and I personally hate the look and feel of 
that paper...

Given the basic chemistry and physics involved, I don't see how a 
swellable polymer paper would generally be compatible with pigment based 
inks, but perhaps I'm missing something..

I'd go with the Ilford Smooth Pearl or Smooth Glossy Galerie papers.. 
Just my 2 cents....



 
Keith Krebs

"Just some guy," and caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON printer 
User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
Publications), at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
 
"For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together 
guys"

> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, gendem <gendem@y.
> ..> wrote:
>> For those of you with a 1280, do you find the lack of
>> a paper cutter built in to be a big deal?
>> 
> 
> No.  I found a nice, effective paper cutter for 13x19 paper at
> PhotoPlus 2yrs ago.  It's now availaible here:
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?
> O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=17524&is=REG
> 
> The plastic lock which holds the blade in place is the weak spot in
> the design.  My cutter lasted 2yrs before it needed replacement.  It
> had moderate to heavy use & for $15, I don't mind replacing it.

I couldn't tell from the pic at B&H, but I'm assuming this cutter is only
long enough to trim the 13" side?

Jon