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QTR ink positions

QTR ink positions

2004-11-09 by Jon Zax

I will shortly be receiving a set of UT FSN inks that will be going into
an Epson 7000 printer. A note I got from Paul Roark got me thinking 
about
which inks to put in which positions. The instructions with the QTR 
software,
which I intend on using, says one can chose their own positions.

The options seem to be; having the dark gray in the Cyan and the 
Magenta locations
and the medium gray in the LC and LM positions.
Or
the dark gray in the Cyan and LC and the medium gray in the Magenta and 
LM spots.

Does anybody have any thoughts about this, or even better,
is somebody using this combination of printer, ink and driver
and has already figured out the most practical use of ink locations ?


TIA

J.Z.

Re: QTR ink positions

2004-11-09 by Shilesh Jani

I would use the former as that will allow you to use the Epson driver 
in addition to QTR.

Shilesh

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Jon Zax 
<lotus@i...> wrote:
> I will shortly be receiving a set of UT FSN inks that will be going 
into
> an Epson 7000 printer. A note I got from Paul Roark got me thinking 
> about
> which inks to put in which positions. The instructions with the QTR 
> software,
> which I intend on using, says one can chose their own positions.
> 
> The options seem to be; having the dark gray in the Cyan and the 
> Magenta locations
> and the medium gray in the LC and LM positions.
> Or
> the dark gray in the Cyan and LC and the medium gray in the Magenta 
and 
> LM spots.
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts about this, or even better,
> is somebody using this combination of printer, ink and driver
> and has already figured out the most practical use of ink 
locations ?
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> J.Z.

RE: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-09 by Paul Roark

Jon,

I'm going to be doing the same thing with my 7500 in the near future.  I
intend to put the dark gray (FS-C) in the C and M spots.  The medium gray
(FS-M) will go in the LC and LM spots, and the light gray (FS-Y) will go in
the Y position.  I will be making curves for the 7500, 9500, 7000, and 9000.

I recommend you follow this arrangement as long as QTR is compatible with
it.  It works very well in the desktop hextone printers.  You might as well
use an ink position that works with both QTR and the Epson driver so that
you can use either one to print.  If the same densities are in the C & LC,
for example, it will not be able to be printed with the Epson driver.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 
____________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Zax [mailto:lotus@...] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 1:53 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions


I will shortly be receiving a set of UT FSN inks that will be going into
an Epson 7000 printer. A note I got from Paul Roark got me thinking 
about
which inks to put in which positions. The instructions with the QTR 
software,
which I intend on using, says one can chose their own positions.

The options seem to be; having the dark gray in the Cyan and the 
Magenta locations
and the medium gray in the LC and LM positions.
Or
the dark gray in the Cyan and LC and the medium gray in the Magenta and 
LM spots.

Does anybody have any thoughts about this, or even better,
is somebody using this combination of printer, ink and driver
and has already figured out the most practical use of ink locations ?


TIA

J.Z.




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Re: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-09 by john dean

Paul,

I am interested in trying this same arrangement with QTR and my 7000. Could you tell us 
where these curves for the positions you just described will be posted and/or purchased? 

John
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I'm going to be doing the same thing with my 7500 in the near future.  I
> intend to put the dark gray (FS-C) in the C and M spots.  The medium gray
> (FS-M) will go in the LC and LM spots, and the light gray (FS-Y) will go in
> the Y position.  I will be making curves for the 7500, 9500, 7000, and 9000.
> 
> I recommend you follow this arrangement as long as QTR is compatible with
> it.  It works very well in the desktop hextone printers.  You might as well
> use an ink position that works with both QTR and the Epson driver so that
> you can use either one to print.  If the same densities are in the C & LC,
> for example, it will not be able to be printed with the Epson driver.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
>

Re: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-09 by Roy Harrington

Jon,

As others have already said its arbitrary as far as QTR goes.  The Paul
and Shilesh arrangement makes sense you could print with the Epson
driver (unless you are running OS X where there isn't an Epson driver).

I've also been thinking of running the UT-FSN inks but rather than
doubling up grays I was thinking of running some sepia toner or just
warm grays in the extra slots.

Roy


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> 
wrote:
> Jon,
> 
> I'm going to be doing the same thing with my 7500 in the near future.  I
> intend to put the dark gray (FS-C) in the C and M spots.  The medium gray
> (FS-M) will go in the LC and LM spots, and the light gray (FS-Y) will go in
> the Y position.  I will be making curves for the 7500, 9500, 7000, and 9000.
> 
> I recommend you follow this arrangement as long as QTR is compatible with
> it.  It works very well in the desktop hextone printers.  You might as well
> use an ink position that works with both QTR and the Epson driver so that
> you can use either one to print.  If the same densities are in the C & LC,
> for example, it will not be able to be printed with the Epson driver.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> ____________________________
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jon Zax [mailto:lotus@i...] 
> Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 1:53 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions
> 
> 
> I will shortly be receiving a set of UT FSN inks that will be going into
> an Epson 7000 printer. A note I got from Paul Roark got me thinking 
> about
> which inks to put in which positions. The instructions with the QTR 
> software,
> which I intend on using, says one can chose their own positions.
> 
> The options seem to be; having the dark gray in the Cyan and the 
> Magenta locations
> and the medium gray in the LC and LM positions.
> Or
> the dark gray in the Cyan and LC and the medium gray in the Magenta and 
> LM spots.
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts about this, or even better,
> is somebody using this combination of printer, ink and driver
> and has already figured out the most practical use of ink locations ?
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> J.Z.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
> they are often being updated.
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
> page.
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
> Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the
> membership without notice.
> - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W
> printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from
> the membership.
> - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and
> Moderators. See Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines in the Files section:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
> 
> BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
> YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE OWNER AND
> MODERATORS OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU
> FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
> DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS,
> GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE  OWNER AND
> MODERATORS OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE
> POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY
> TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR
> ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF 
ANY
Show quoted textHide quoted text
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>  
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Re: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-10 by john dean

That sounds like something very much worth trying. I should have my 7000 fixed next 
week now that almost all my parts are here, I then I will need to pay someone to do a 
linearization of my particular printer. There are so many things I want to try with "toning" 
this year with QTR.

John


> 
> 
> Jon,
> 
> As others have already said its arbitrary as far as QTR goes.  The Paul
> and Shilesh arrangement makes sense you could print with the Epson
> driver (unless you are running OS X where there isn't an Epson driver).
> 
> I've also been thinking of running the UT-FSN inks but rather than
> doubling up grays I was thinking of running some sepia toner or just
> warm grays in the extra slots.
> 
> Roy
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> 
> wrote:
> > Jon,
> > 
> > I'm going to be doing the same thing with my 7500 in the near future.  I
> > intend to put the dark gray (FS-C) in the C and M spots.  The medium gray
> > (FS-M) will go in the LC and LM spots, and the light gray (FS-Y) will go in
> > the Y position.  I will be making curves for the 7500, 9500, 7000, and 9000.
> > 
> > I recommend you follow this arrangement as long as QTR is compatible with
> > it.  It works very well in the desktop hextone printers.  You might as well
> > use an ink position that works with both QTR and the Epson driver so that
> > you can use either one to print.  If the same densities are in the C & LC,
> > for example, it will not be able to be printed with the Epson driver.
> > 
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com 
> > ____________________________
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jon Zax [mailto:lotus@i...] 
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 1:53 PM
> > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions
> > 
> > 
> > I will shortly be receiving a set of UT FSN inks that will be going into
> > an Epson 7000 printer. A note I got from Paul Roark got me thinking 
> > about
> > which inks to put in which positions. The instructions with the QTR 
> > software,
> > which I intend on using, says one can chose their own positions.
> > 
> > The options seem to be; having the dark gray in the Cyan and the 
> > Magenta locations
> > and the medium gray in the LC and LM positions.
> > Or
> > the dark gray in the Cyan and LC and the medium gray in the Magenta and 
> > LM spots.
> > 
> > Does anybody have any thoughts about this, or even better,
> > is somebody using this combination of printer, ink and driver
> > and has already figured out the most practical use of ink locations ?
> > 
> > 
> > TIA
> > 
> > J.Z.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
> > they are often being updated.
> > 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> > 
> > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
> > page.
> > 
> > Please follow these basic guidelines:
> > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> > them short.
> > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
> > Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the
> > membership without notice.
> > - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W
> > printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from
> > the membership.
> > - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
> > guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and
> > Moderators. See Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines in the Files section:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
> > 
> > BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
> > YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE OWNER AND
> > MODERATORS OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO 
YOU
> > FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
> > DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS,
> > GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE  OWNER AND
> > MODERATORS OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE
> > POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY
> > TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO 
OR
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF 
> ANY
> > THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER
> > MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
> >  
> > Yahoo! Groups Links

Re: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-10 by Larry Ostrom

>  I should have my 7000 fixed next
>  week now that almost all my parts are here,
Greetings:  If my memory serves me correct,,,  someone on this list 
said to change the dampers on an epson 7000 to the epson 7500 dampers 
because you are going to be using pigment ink??? again take this with a 
grain of salt???
i've also got a 7000 that loves to clog and is 3/4's apart as we 
speak...
regards
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-10 by Mark Savoia

That was me concerning using the 7500 dampers instead of the 7000 
dampers. This was told to me by a Calgraph service tech and ever since 
I changed those over I have had only a few clog issues in dampers, but 
I think it had more to do with the ink separation in the carts.
Mark

On Nov 10, 2004, at 10:32 AM, Larry Ostrom wrote:

> >� I should have my 7000 fixed next
>  >� week now that almost all my parts are here,
>  Greetings:� If my memory serves me correct,,,� someone on this list
>  said to change the dampers on an epson 7000 to the epson 7500 dampers
>  because you are going to be using pigment ink??? again take this with 
> a
>  grain of salt???
>  i've also got a 7000 that loves to clog and is 3/4's apart as we
>  speak...
>  regards
>  Larry
>
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other 
> resources as they are often being updated.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
>  If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish 
> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting 
> this same page.
>
>  Please follow these basic guidelines:
>  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to 
> keep them short.
>  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or 
> flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from 
> the membership without notice.
>  - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital 
> B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be 
> removed from the membership.
>  - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and 
> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group 
> Owner and Moderators. See �Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines� in the 
> Files section:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
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> DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE 
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> YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), 
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> YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dampers

2004-11-10 by john dean

Larry,

When I called Compas Micro to order all my parts we had this dampers discussion.
The sales guy told me that he thought the dampers of the 7500 and 7000 were different, 
and would not recommend me using different dampers in the 7000. He said I could 
"experiment", but with all else I have to replace, I wasn't in the mood for anymore 
experimenting. In the mean time Jon Cone wrote me a long email and told me about all 
the 7000's loaded with carbon pigment that he has used for years. They all have original 
dampers. That was good enough for me, but I will keep an eye on them. They are very 
easy to replace. He also mentioned that the Lyson to Pigment changeover is the most 
problematic. 

My Lyson inkset totally gummed up this machine when converting so I am replacing both 
heads, all dampers, the capping station assembly, and the ink pump. All together these 
parts will cost me about $270.00. Epson wanted $1,300.00 just for the heads,  and that 
didn't include any of the other parts I just listed or their travel and labor time which would 
have doubled that cost. As much of a pain as it is to stop your work and learn how to work 
on these things, it is well worth it in the long run. It isn't brain surgery and these skills can 
be applied to other machines as well.

My big lesson is: if you are chaning a 7000 to carbon pigments form an Epson dye set or 
an Epson pigment set you probably have little to worry about and a set of cleaning carts 
should do the trick. However if you are changing from any Lyson inkset you might want to 
do a thorough clean out of the whole system before wasting expensive inks. 

The two things that are mandatory in my opinion, having gone through all this, is to be 
sure to replace the dampers at about $11.00 each, and replace the head capping station 
assembly at about $20.00. Some people replace the "mantanence kit" that is these parts 
plus the pump every 2 years or so. That might not be a bad idea. 

John

Re: Dampers

2004-11-10 by john dean

One final thought Larry,

I plan to buy and inexpensive humidifier and place beside my printer. I believe this is the 
cheapest way to keep the heads and capping station free of clogs. Replacing the capping 
pads regularly is also important for a good tight suction of the heads.

Re: [Digital BW] QTR ink positions

2004-11-10 by Ernst Dinkla

Roy Harrington wrote:
> 
> 
> Jon,
> 
> As others have already said its arbitrary as far as QTR goes.  The Paul
> and Shilesh arrangement makes sense you could print with the Epson
> driver (unless you are running OS X where there isn't an Epson driver).
> 
> I've also been thinking of running the UT-FSN inks but rather than
> doubling up grays I was thinking of running some sepia toner or just
> warm grays in the extra slots.
> 
> Roy
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> 
> wrote:
> 
>>Jon,
>>
>>I'm going to be doing the same thing with my 7500 in the near future.  I
>>intend to put the dark gray (FS-C) in the C and M spots.  The medium gray
>>(FS-M) will go in the LC and LM spots, and the light gray (FS-Y) will go in
>>the Y position.  I will be making curves for the 7500, 9500, 7000, and 9000.
>>
>>I recommend you follow this arrangement as long as QTR is compatible with
>>it.  It works very well in the desktop hextone printers.  You might as well
>>use an ink position that works with both QTR and the Epson driver so that
>>you can use either one to print.  If the same densities are in the C & LC,
>>for example, it will not be able to be printed with the Epson driver.
>>
>>Paul
>>www.PaulRoark.com 

I don't think Paul can write Epson driver curves for the 
following setup :-)

The Wasatch RIP is a CMYK rip so I can't address the 6 individual 
channels of the Epson 9000.  With the Ultratone VM inks (Black, 
three greys, two blue toners) I have used the recommended 
distribution for Paul's curves at that time. Now I'm using Black 
+ the medium grey in the Cyan channel, the medium grey + light 
grey in the Magenta channel + the dark blue toner in the Black 
channel. The Yellow head isn't used in this setup but could be 
used for a sepia toner with QTR. Now it is easier to get the CM 
curves control the grey part in total and add the toner with a 
single curve for the Black channel.

Ernst

Re: [Digital BW] Dampers

2004-11-11 by Larry Ostrom

> John
thanks for the details.
  if and when I get this clog----unclogged...  I'm waiting for lysonic 
(ordered) cleaning carts which I will purge the system with,  then if 
all goes well I will re-install lysonic archival..   My plan is to 
convert this machine to pigment B&W in a couple of months probably then 
would be a good time to replace dampers, heads, capping station, and 
the ink pump...
Your right about, "dismanteling epsons" do it once and you get the feel 
for it. sure beats calling epson reps (price)
thanks
Larry

Re: [Digital BW] Dampers

2004-11-11 by john dean

Larry,

If I were you the first thing I would do is run about two sets of those cleaning carts 
through the printer, and don't load it with more Lyson gunk if you are really going to 
change these inks out. Jon Cone said that with Lyson ink changeover one set of cleaning 
fluid probably would not be enough for the larger printers. Print out grey scales on large 
paper until they are all flushed through the system totally. Then do a KK2 cleaning. But 
this is just step one.

Second, replace those parts I told you about before you put in the new pigment inks, 
unless you want to waste half the inkset like I did. The parts are cheaper than the ink by 
far!  All of these lines and pump have to be COMPLETELY clear of this Lyson inkset, 
especially the dampers, lines, and capping station,  otherwise you will continue to have 
little annoying blockages breaking loose  in the future. There is no way to completely 
remove the Lyon inks from the capping station and dampers. They HAVE to be replaced. I 
learned the hard way.

If you are trying to save money on this you could probably take out the heads ( not a big 
deal even for me) and flush them out with Windex and a syringe. It is very important that 
the printer be unplugged and don't get the head chips wet. When you take them out you 
will see how easy that is. You can order the parts at Compas Micro - 
www.compasmicro.com. 

Finally, if you are smart you will pick up a cheap humidifier and put it right next to the 
printer when using carbon pigments, unless you live in the pacific northwest or the 
tropics, and don't use dry heat.  I live in Atlanta and my studio humidity rarely gets above 
40-50% all year. Turn on the humidifier the night before you plan to do some work. This is 
what I am going to do from the advice of veterans.

John

[Digital BW] Dampers

2004-11-12 by Larry Ostrom

>
>  If I were you the first thing I would do is run about two sets of 
> those cleaning carts
>  through the printer
The cleaning carts are on their way,,,,, as we speak...

>  Second, replace those parts I told you about before you put in the 
> new pigment inks,
that I plan to do ----way before--- I start B&W, too bad the lysonic 
B&W inks aren't that good.....

>  If you are trying to save money on this
not really, like you say the inks are more expensive than the parts

>  You can order the parts at Compas Micro -  www.compasmicro.com.
thats who i plan on using.

>  Finally, if you are smart you will pick up a cheap humidifier
I live in Canada, Ontario, and heat with a wood stove which is in the 
next room... so dry heat,,, thats exactly what I will have for the next 
5 months.   So off I go to Canadian Tire(Canada's version of Home 
Depot) to buy a cheap humidifier, they probably sell many in this 
"wood-heat" part of the country....

I was wondering did you compile your list of all the different 
responses you had with your own 7000 inquiries???
and is your machine working?¿

thanks again for all your help
regards
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Dampers

2004-11-13 by The Wogster

Larry Ostrom wrote:
>> If I were you the first thing I would do is run about two sets of 
>>those cleaning carts
>> through the printer
> 
> The cleaning carts are on their way,,,,, as we speak...
> 
> 
>> Second, replace those parts I told you about before you put in the 
>>new pigment inks,
> 
> that I plan to do ----way before--- I start B&W, too bad the lysonic 
> B&W inks aren't that good.....
> 
> 
>> If you are trying to save money on this
> 
> not really, like you say the inks are more expensive than the parts
> 
> 
>> You can order the parts at Compas Micro -  www.compasmicro.com.
> 
> thats who i plan on using.
> 
> 
>> Finally, if you are smart you will pick up a cheap humidifier
> 
> I live in Canada, Ontario, and heat with a wood stove which is in the 
> next room... so dry heat,,, thats exactly what I will have for the next 
> 5 months.   So off I go to Canadian Tire(Canada's version of Home 
> Depot) to buy a cheap humidifier, they probably sell many in this 
> "wood-heat" part of the country....

What many people used to do, pick up a big non-electric kettle, fill it 
with water, and put it on top of the wood stove, not only did it add 
humidity to the air, but any time you wanted a cup of tea, or hot 
chocolate, instant hot water!  You just need to refill it, whenever you 
add wood to the stove.

W

Re: [Digital BW] Dampers

2004-11-13 by Larry Ostrom

>  What many people used to do, pick up a big non-electric kettle, fill 
> it
>  with water, and put it on top of the wood stove,

You're quite right,,, thats a standard item in wood-heat country....   
its usually made of cast iron to withstand the heat, but as far as "hot 
water for tea" , the water actually gets a little murky after a few 
refills and some of the iron oxide mixes in.....sometimes I will pour 
in the last of the coffee,,, just to get the coffee smell in the 
kitchen.....  all in all you can't beat wood heat, if you're cold move 
your chair closer to the stove,,, when warm enough move farther 
away...... simple plan...
now back to epson dampers---- hope they arrive soon.....
take care
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Relative densities of UT-1 inks

2004-11-13 by Bill Morse

I recently received my first set of UT-1 inks; previously I had been using
the VM set.  There is a large jump between the Yellow and the Lt. Cyan
densities, and much smaller jumps between the Lt. Cyan and Cyan, and the
Cyan and Black. This results in dottiness in the transition between Yellow
and Cyan, which happens between 25% and 50% using QTR.  The rest of the ramp
does not show dottiness.

For those of you using UT-1, is this what you are seeing, or do I have a bad
ink set?  What are the relative densities of the inks supposed to be?

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Bill Morse
Digital Eye Editions
343 Medford St., Studio 2A
Somerville, MA 02145
(617) 429-3298



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Relative densities of UT-1 inks

2004-11-13 by john eckenrode

i have the same problem on my 1200 with ut-1 and qtr.
i sorta countered the problem by ramping up the ink
limit of the "yellow' ink to get max density out of
it. but i still have a little dottiness in the 35-40%
zone. in photos with a lot going on, landscapes etc, i
don't notice. but for skin tones it is noticeable and
frustrating. i thought of mixing my own in between ink
to fix this, but then i lose a nozzle slot and have a
toner issue. the lt toner is too light to cool off the
print and the dk toner has too many dots in the
highlites. so yes i have the same ut-1 problem.

john e


--- Bill Morse <whm.lists@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I recently received my first set of UT-1 inks;
> previously I had been using
> the VM set.  There is a large jump between the
> Yellow and the Lt. Cyan
> densities, and much smaller jumps between the Lt.
> Cyan and Cyan, and the
> Cyan and Black. This results in dottiness in the
> transition between Yellow
> and Cyan, which happens between 25% and 50% using
> QTR.  The rest of the ramp
> does not show dottiness.
> 
> For those of you using UT-1, is this what you are
> seeing, or do I have a bad
> ink set?  What are the relative densities of the
> inks supposed to be?
> 
> Thanks for any thoughts on this.
> 
> Bill Morse
> Digital Eye Editions
> 343 Medford St., Studio 2A
> Somerville, MA 02145
> (617) 429-3298
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
>

RE: [Digital BW] Relative densities of UT-1 inks

2004-11-13 by Paul Roark

UT1 densities are supposed to be the same as the VM densities.  If you're
seeing an obvious change, something might be wrong.  I'll send a scan of a
purge pattern off list for you to compare.  All I have is the VM scan, but
it should be about the same.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

____________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Morse [mailto:whm.lists@verizon.net] 
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 12:59 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] Relative densities of UT-1 inks


I recently received my first set of UT-1 inks; previously I had been using
the VM set.  There is a large jump between the Yellow and the Lt. Cyan
densities, and much smaller jumps between the Lt. Cyan and Cyan, and the
Cyan and Black. This results in dottiness in the transition between Yellow
and Cyan, which happens between 25% and 50% using QTR.  The rest of the ramp
does not show dottiness.

For those of you using UT-1, is this what you are seeing, or do I have a bad
ink set?  What are the relative densities of the inks supposed to be?

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Bill Morse
Digital Eye Editions
343 Medford St., Studio 2A
Somerville, MA 02145
(617) 429-3298



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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