Digital BW, The Print

Dear Colleagues,

I have had very frustrating experiences with an Epson 1160 using MIS 
inks printing either Black Only (thanks Clayton for your encouraging 
articles) or UT quadtones (thanks Paul for your curves).  The heads 
clog and take ages and waste vast quantities of ink to clean, and 
even then I often get micro-banding.

So, in desperation I have ordered an Epson 2100 (= 2200 on this side 
of the pond) which sounds a more robust machine.  I have also had 
some useful advice to use the OEM inks and the Harrington RIP for my 
black and white prints.  This should work out cheaper and apparently 
there is no metamerism.  However, I still have residual doubts as to 
whether this is the best path to follow: there is a whole new system 
to learn and I liked the BO prints - when they worked.

Any advice from those who have already trodden this path?

Thanks,

John

Hi John

I think you will like the 2100. Before I bought the 2100 I too used a 
1160. I tried BO printing and MIS UT inks. Generally I was quite 
happy with the 1160, but it did suffer from clogs. However the main 
reason I choose to buy the 2100 was that I wanted to print colour and 
B&W from the same machine. The 2100 with OEM inks produces great 
colour prints and using either Roy's QTR or Bowhaus IJC/OPM, produces 
equally good metamerism free B&Ws. I think the only issue to be aware 
of is bronzing when using pigment inks on glossy paper. The bronzing 
is a bit like the issue of dots with BO printing, you either except 
it, or print on matte papers only. Using the RIPs is not difficult 
and both software products come with curves/profiles for the 2100/oem 
inks on various papers. The great thing about the RIPs is that you 
have total control over the inks. Eg You can change the tone of a 
print, sepia - warm - neutral - cool. 

I have had the 2100 for about six months now and todate have only 
done one cleaning cycle. I use the printer on average a couple of 
times a week. For me the constant clogs of the 1160 are now history.

Overrall I think its a great combination at a reasonable price.

Peter

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "johnrbeeching" 
<J.R.Beeching@b...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Dear Colleagues,
> 
> I have had very frustrating experiences with an Epson 1160 using 
MIS 
> inks printing either Black Only (thanks Clayton for your 
encouraging 
> articles) or UT quadtones (thanks Paul for your curves).  The heads 
> clog and take ages and waste vast quantities of ink to clean, and 
> even then I often get micro-banding.
> 
> So, in desperation I have ordered an Epson 2100 (= 2200 on this 
side 
> of the pond) which sounds a more robust machine.  I have also had 
> some useful advice to use the OEM inks and the Harrington RIP for 
my 
> black and white prints.  This should work out cheaper and 
apparently 
> there is no metamerism.  However, I still have residual doubts as 
to 
> whether this is the best path to follow: there is a whole new 
system 

> to learn and I liked the BO prints - when they worked.
> 
> Any advice from those who have already trodden this path?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John

John

If you like BO printing then using MIS Eboni black with Epson OEM 
colour inks is not a problem. I did a little BO printing this way and 
got better results with the 2100 than I did from the 1160. MIS now 
have easy fill carts for the 2100, so BO printing would be really 
cheap.

Peter

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "johnrbeeching" 
> I have had very frustrating experiences with an Epson 1160 using MIS 
> inks printing either Black Only (thanks Clayton for your encouraging 
> articles) or UT quadtones (thanks Paul for your curves).  The heads 
> clog and take ages and waste vast quantities of ink to clean, and 
> even then I often get micro-banding.
> 
> So, in desperation I have ordered an Epson 2100 (= 2200 on this side 
> of the pond) which sounds a more robust machine.  I have also had 
> some useful advice to use the OEM inks and the Harrington RIP for my 
> black and white prints.  This should work out cheaper and apparently 
> there is no metamerism.  However, I still have residual doubts as to 
> whether this is the best path to follow: there is a whole new system 
> to learn and I liked the BO prints - when they worked.

Hi, my printer history is the same as yours. However I was quite happy
with the 1160 for 2 years - and I made a series of exhibition quality
prints with it - but on matte paper. When my 1160 died, I got a 2100
on which I contunued to have serious issues for quite while. Now as
things are working quite smooth with the UT7 inks I am happier, the
2100 is a more robust, much faster printer than the 1160 and on
semigloss paper the results in the shadows are much better also. 

The available RIP haven't been working for me so far, but I guess this
will also change in the future when I work more with it.

regards, bernie

Hello Bernie,

To answer your other question regarding users logging into the BowHaus web
site.

The registered user page on our website was specifically set up for owners
of the MAC OS X Edition to download an upgrade for their version of IJC/OPM.
You have the most current version of the Windows XP Edition.

We are officially launching IJC/OPM for Windows XP today, and a special
area will be set up to support Windows users very shortly.  We are also
considering setting up a common message board and information area for BOTH
Windows and OS X users.

We are committed to helping all of our customers put our products and
services to the best use.

Joe Berndt.

On 1/6/05 10:09 AM, "Bernie Ess" <albatros-@...> wrote:

> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "johnrbeeching"
>> > I have had very frustrating experiences with an Epson 1160 using MIS
>> > inks printing either Black Only (thanks Clayton for your encouraging
>> > articles) or UT quadtones (thanks Paul for your curves).  The heads
>> > clog and take ages and waste vast quantities of ink to clean, and
>> > even then I often get micro-banding.
>> > 
>> > So, in desperation I have ordered an Epson 2100 (= 2200 on this side
>> > of the pond) which sounds a more robust machine.  I have also had
>> > some useful advice to use the OEM inks and the Harrington RIP for my
>> > black and white prints.  This should work out cheaper and apparently
>> > there is no metamerism.  However, I still have residual doubts as to
>> > whether this is the best path to follow: there is a whole new system
>> > to learn and I liked the BO prints - when they worked.
> 
> Hi, my printer history is the same as yours. However I was quite happy
> with the 1160 for 2 years - and I made a series of exhibition quality
> prints with it - but on matte paper. When my 1160 died, I got a 2100
> on which I contunued to have serious issues for quite while. Now as
> things are working quite smooth with the UT7 inks I am happier, the
> 2100 is a more robust, much faster printer than the 1160 and on
> semigloss paper the results in the shadows are much better also.
> 
> The available RIP haven't been working for me so far, but I guess this
> will also change in the future when I work more with it.
> 
> regards, bernie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 




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