What do forum folks use most for image capture?
2005-04-23 by Scott McLoughlin
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2005-04-23 by Scott McLoughlin
I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different image capture modus operandi. I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's going on prior to editting and printing the digital image. Thanks much. Scott
2005-04-23 by scott_now_coming
Nikon D70. eom --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Scott McLoughlin <scott@a...> wrote: > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different > image capture modus operandi. > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's going
> on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > Thanks much. > > Scott
2005-04-23 by Andy Graham
Nikon D70-printing mostly B/O, epson 2200 ,epson inks-6X9...sometimes (rarely)up to 10X15 I'm wondering more what people DO with their prints~S~...are most in here pro or semi pro?...do the amateurs show them?,try to sell them? trade them? give them away?..just enjoy making them and then quietly put them away?..........just wondering. andy --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Scott McLoughlin <scott@a...> wrote: > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different > image capture modus operandi. > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's going
> on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > Thanks much. > > Scott
2005-04-23 by Paul Roark
> > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve ... I've shot medium format with Tmax 100 for years and now Technical Pan since I found the grain of Tmax was my limiting factor with digital tools. I use a Nikon 8000 scanner. 16 x 20 has been my target for years, but I'm also now enjoying 22 x 28. I had ignored B&W digital due to the film-to-digital comparisons based on resolution. In theory film can capture way more line pairs per millimeter than even the best portable digital cameras. Then a month ago I printed a friend's Canon 20D (8 mp) images at 16 x 20 and was amazed at the high quality of the image. I just bought a Canon Digital Rebel XT (8 mp). I've made comparison prints of test charts that include resolution charts and plain gray areas that show off the grain or noise. The test prints are at a 16 x 20 magnification. I show these "un-manipulated" test prints to third parties who don't know what is what. The results are that the medium format Tmax 100 always is considered the lowest quality. The medium format Tech Pan and the Rebel XT prints are usually considered about equal, with little preference. (I can see a difference, but it is probably beyond what would ever matter in a real photo.) I'm amazed, and Kodak is going to be dead meat way before I'd previously thought. The viewers just don't notice the difference in the finest (barely visible in either case) detail; the Rebel's lack of grain or noise is what makes the difference. I think MF Tech Pan is still my ultimate in quality, but there is no reason to bother with MF Tmax 100, which is now the finest grain camera film Kodak makes since it discontinued Tech Pan. So, I'm saving the stockpile of TP for when I really want to go to 22 x 28 or above, and the Rebel is going to replace my "quick and easy" Fuji GA 645 Zi that used to have higher-speed film in it for the occasional hand held shot. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
2005-04-23 by guy washburn
Canon 20D digital, 35mm and 6x7 b&w negs scanned on Epson 4870 (really great results -- 35mm as good as I used to get on my Poloroid sprint scan 4000). Currently trying to sell my LF stuff to finance a 1DS or 1DS mkII. Convert with channel mixer. QTR output on Epson 2200 with UC. Thinking about another one for dedicated to MIS UT quad set. Guy --- Scott McLoughlin <scott@...> wrote: > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? > Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? > What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve > from the different > image capture modus operandi. > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm > curious about what's going > on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > Thanks much. > > Scott > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
2005-04-23 by scott_now_coming
"I'm amazed, and Kodak is going to be dead meat way before I'd previously thought." I used to think that until recently. Kodak is making the sensor for alot of camera,especially digital medium format. Kodak and Dalsa are the top sensor makers. I think Kodak wanted to get get out of the "retail" side of cameras. Kodak cameras were always for the masses and I think price wise, it is too hard for mthem to compete, so they got out. (IMO).
2005-04-23 by scott_now_coming
Andy, I'm a portriat photographer who does commisioned portraits and commercial work involving people, including photography for theaters. My own personal portfolio is about 90% B&W, and I could careless if anyone doesn't like it (lol!) I would love to be able to only print b&w, put many paying jobs I have require "color". Scott --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Andy Graham" <justmeok55@h...> wrote: > > Nikon D70-printing mostly B/O, epson 2200 ,epson inks- 6X9...sometimes > (rarely)up to 10X15 > > I'm wondering more what people DO with their prints~S~...are most in > here pro or semi pro?...do the amateurs show them?,try to sell them? > trade them? give them away?..just enjoy making them and then quietly > put them away?..........just wondering. > > andy > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Scott > McLoughlin <scott@a...> wrote: > > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the > different > > image capture modus operandi. > > > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's
> going > > on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > > > Thanks much. > > > > Scott
2005-04-23 by Ernst Dinkla
Paul Roark wrote: > >I think MF Tech Pan is still my ultimate in quality, but there is no reason >to bother with MF Tmax 100, which is now the finest grain camera film Kodak >makes since it discontinued Tech Pan. So, I'm saving the stockpile of TP >for when I really want to go to 22 x 28 or above, and the Rebel is going to >replace my "quick and easy" Fuji GA 645 Zi that used to have higher-speed >film in it for the occasional hand held shot. > >Paul >www.PaulRoark.com > > > Printed some color prints of a Canon 20D on the Epson 10000 (MIS 7600 inks) with Qimage extrapolation and sharpening. I wasn't surprised by the quality but my customer was very surprised, his 2100 and Photoshop (on a Mac) couldn't use all the information available, now he knows what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 and wet mount scans on the Nikon 8000 but it takes a lot more work. Ernst
2005-04-23 by Ken Carney
I started this adventure by scanning LF (8x10 and 4x5) negs and chromes, with a Linotype-Hell LF scanner. Wanting to free myself from tripods, I went to 35mm with the Nikon 4000-ED. Recently I bought an entry-level digital SLR (Canon Digital Rebel) and a couple of Canon primes, to see if that would work for me. Now, the only time I use film is when I need my 15mm w/a. The digital image is perfectly acceptable, once you get past blowing out the highlights, but for me the deciding factor was ease of use, e.g., changing EI. The capture workflow is simple. I open a raw file in Capture One, adjust the white balance with a WhiBal (www.whibal.com) image, then set the black and white points and save as a tif. I'll typically apply Noise Ninja to the tif, then the file is ready for Photoshop. I don't print very large, usually on 11x17 or 13x19 with salon borders. B&W conversion is with Convert to B&W Pro by the Imaging Factory. It is flexible and quick. Now that it appears digital is here to stay, I'll be looking at a camera upgrade. The best results I've personally seen are with a friend's Canon IDMarkII and Leica R lenses. The only downside to digital that I can see (aside from cost) is that the camera and a zoom lens (like the Canon 24-70L) can be very imposing, read huge. That's why I use the primes instead. Hope this helps a little. --Ken Carney
> -----Original Message----- > From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of Scott McLoughlin > Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 3:31 AM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Digital BW] What do forum folks use most for image capture? > > > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the > different image capture modus operandi. > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about > what's going on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > Thanks much. > > Scott > > > > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > --------------------~--> In low income neighborhoods, 84% do > not own computers. > At Network for Good, help bridge the Digital Divide! > http://us.click.yahoo.com/S.QlOD/3MnJAA/Zx0JAA/ucIolB/TM > -------------------------------------------------------------- > ------~-> > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other > resources as they are often being updated. > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or > you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership > preferences by visiting this same page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier > messages to keep them short. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks > or flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be > removed from the membership without notice. > - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of > digital B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic > posts may be removed from the membership. > - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group > rules and guidelines, and to abide by the actions and > decisions of the group Owner and Moderators. See "Group > Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/ > > BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL > BW, THE PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE > THAT THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT > YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, > INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY > DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF > PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN > IF THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT > YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH > DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE > THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED > ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) > STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, > THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO > THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP. > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
2005-04-23 by Paul Roark
Ernst, You wrote, in part: >... > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 ... Yes, especially if fine detail and resolution are most significant. But, the question for me may be: How much of the typical 16 x 20 inch fine art image is affected by the resolution beyond what this 8 mp camera can capture? I made a set of comparison prints using the Rebel and various medium format camera and films. My sampling of an admittedly limited group of typical, educated (but not photo-obsessed) types suggests they don't see much of the fine detail advantage that the film technically holds. The limiting factor or artifact that everyone seemed to see the most in my sample prints was the grain of the 100 ISO film. "Sharpness" -- from even a close, "book-reading" distance -- is about a draw between my unprocessed, Nikon 8000 scanned, medium format film prints and 8 mp versions. I can see the difference, but it's probably not going to be visible in 16 x 20" real world prints. What I have found with my old Tmax 100 medium format negatives is the extent to which the grain limited me. If one looks at the photograph as an information medium and what we do as information processing, I want the maximum useable information to be accessible to the viewer as easily as possible. For this, I want the best signal-to-noise ratio over the "relevant" frequencies. The relevance of the frequencies is probably a bell curve that changes with viewing distance and image size -- and it's probably heavily skewed to the lower frequencies in prints that are judged in part on their "artistic" merit. The peak of that bell curve and, perhaps, 95% of the area under that curve seem to be well within what the 8 mp Rebel can do very easily, even at a 16 x 20 size. I'm currently of the opinion that this relatively cheap little Canon Digital Rebel XT (aka 350D), even with its 18 - 55 mm II zoom, has just knocked off most of my medium format film-camera combos for most situations. The low noise of the Canon sensor is a huge part of the formula. (I'm not sure how good the other sensors are. I suspect this may be where Canon kills Kodak. I think Kodak poured money into CCD technology, which was once thought to be the low-noise leader, but which suffered other disadvantages. Among other things, CCD technology has, apparently, not as directly benefited from the CMOS microprocessor and memory R&D and advances.) Combining the Canon's inherently low noise I've seen so far with the ease with which I can multi-sample on a tripod, and the limiting factor of the grain in 100 ISO film virtually kills the currently existing film market for me. My freezer full of TP may be the end of film for me. Of course, the real world use of this camera may change my opinions. Paul www.PaulRoark.com __________________________________
> Paul Roark wrote: > > > > >I think MF Tech Pan is still my ultimate in quality, but there is no > reason > >to bother with MF Tmax 100, which is now the finest grain camera film > Kodak > >makes since it discontinued Tech Pan. So, I'm saving the stockpile of TP > >for when I really want to go to 22 x 28 or above, and the Rebel is going > to > >replace my "quick and easy" Fuji GA 645 Zi that used to have higher-speed > >film in it for the occasional hand held shot. > > > >Paul > >www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > Printed some color prints of a Canon 20D on the Epson 10000 (MIS 7600 > inks) with Qimage extrapolation and sharpening. I wasn't surprised by > the quality but my customer was very surprised, his 2100 and Photoshop > (on a Mac) couldn't use all the information available, now he knows > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 > and wet mount scans on the Nikon 8000 but it takes a lot more work. > > Ernst >
2005-04-23 by john dean
Shoot 4x5 Tri-X or TMax and drum scan it and you will see a huge difference, especially in the dynamic range. John
2005-04-23 by Peter De Smidt
This has been interesting reading. Nonetheless, I wonder how Paul's comparison prints would compare if he used XP-2 Super or a good, EI 100 slide film to represent film capture instead of TMX100. It's my experience that XP-2 Super scans considerable better than TMX100, even though it has a full stop more speed, and I've heard that slide films scan significantly better than traditional BW films as well. -Peter De Smidt
2005-04-23 by scott_now_coming
Paul, just curious: Did you ever use the T-Max Reversal Kit for making slides? That stuff was incredible. I projected a slide on a wall to 15 feet high. You could walk right up to the wall and take a look and there was NO grain! It was amazing. I don't know if it would have beat TP developed in it's special TP developer, but it would definitly give it a run for it's money. Just a thought............. Scott --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> wrote: > Ernst, > > You wrote, in part: > > >... > > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 ... > > Yes, especially if fine detail and resolution are most significant. > > But, the question for me may be: How much of the typical 16 x 20 inch fine > art image is affected by the resolution beyond what this 8 mp camera can > capture? > > I made a set of comparison prints using the Rebel and various medium format > camera and films. My sampling of an admittedly limited group of typical, > educated (but not photo-obsessed) types suggests they don't see much of the > fine detail advantage that the film technically holds. > > The limiting factor or artifact that everyone seemed to see the most in my > sample prints was the grain of the 100 ISO film. > > "Sharpness" -- from even a close, "book-reading" distance -- is about a draw > between my unprocessed, Nikon 8000 scanned, medium format film prints and 8 > mp versions. I can see the difference, but it's probably not going to be > visible in 16 x 20" real world prints. > > What I have found with my old Tmax 100 medium format negatives is the extent > to which the grain limited me. If one looks at the photograph as an > information medium and what we do as information processing, I want the > maximum useable information to be accessible to the viewer as easily as > possible. For this, I want the best signal-to-noise ratio over the > "relevant" frequencies. The relevance of the frequencies is probably a bell > curve that changes with viewing distance and image size -- and it's probably > heavily skewed to the lower frequencies in prints that are judged in part on > their "artistic" merit. The peak of that bell curve and, perhaps, 95% of > the area under that curve seem to be well within what the 8 mp Rebel can do > very easily, even at a 16 x 20 size. > > I'm currently of the opinion that this relatively cheap little Canon Digital > Rebel XT (aka 350D), even with its 18 - 55 mm II zoom, has just knocked off > most of my medium format film-camera combos for most situations. > > The low noise of the Canon sensor is a huge part of the formula. (I'm not > sure how good the other sensors are. I suspect this may be where Canon > kills Kodak. I think Kodak poured money into CCD technology, which was once > thought to be the low-noise leader, but which suffered other disadvantages. > Among other things, CCD technology has, apparently, not as directly > benefited from the CMOS microprocessor and memory R&D and advances.) > > Combining the Canon's inherently low noise I've seen so far with the ease > with which I can multi-sample on a tripod, and the limiting factor of the > grain in 100 ISO film virtually kills the currently existing film market for > me. My freezer full of TP may be the end of film for me. > > Of course, the real world use of this camera may change my opinions. > > > Paul > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Paul Roark wrote: > > > > > > > >I think MF Tech Pan is still my ultimate in quality, but there is no > > reason > > >to bother with MF Tmax 100, which is now the finest grain camera film > > Kodak > > >makes since it discontinued Tech Pan. So, I'm saving the stockpile of TP > > >for when I really want to go to 22 x 28 or above, and the Rebel is going > > to > > >replace my "quick and easy" Fuji GA 645 Zi that used to have higher-speed > > >film in it for the occasional hand held shot. > > > > > >Paul > > >www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > Printed some color prints of a Canon 20D on the Epson 10000 (MIS 7600 > > inks) with Qimage extrapolation and sharpening. I wasn't surprised by > > the quality but my customer was very surprised, his 2100 and Photoshop > > (on a Mac) couldn't use all the information available, now he knows > > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 > > and wet mount scans on the Nikon 8000 but it takes a lot more work.
> > > > Ernst > >
2005-04-23 by Steve Bell
On 23/4/05 9:30 am, "Scott McLoughlin" <scott@...> wrote: > > I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different > image capture modus operandi. > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's going > on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > Thanks much. > > Scott I shoot mainly B&W film in older cameras. Typically PanF+ in Canon manual focus cameras with Canon prime lenses, PanF+ or Delta 100 in a Mamiya C220, and FP4+ in a 4x5 Toyo 45A. I haven't had the Toyo long. I scan 35mm in a Minolta Dimage Elite 5400, MF in a friends Nikon 8000, and 4x5 in a friends Epson 4870. I intend to buy an Epson 4990 once the expense of my daughters wedding is out of the way in August. I'll use that for 4x5 and MF, but may still scan selected MF in my friends Nikon 8000. I process the images in Photoshop CS on an eMac running OSX, and print to either A4 with an HP7660 using the 59 cartridge, or larger BO on an Epson 1290s. I also have an Epson 1160 loaded with Permajet VT Blax, but didn't get on with it. I'm looking at some changes on the printer front, maybe an HP 8750. I can also print the occasional selected image on a friends Epson 7600. Steve Bell
2005-04-23 by frank1o05
Paul, How does lens quality enter into the picture? I sometimes shoot (recent) Leica-M lenses. They are quite soft towards the corners when compared to MF (Rollei) or LF lenses at the same (and even at different) magnification ratios. (All shot at optimum apertures: f/5.6, f/ 11, f/22 respectively. The MF comparison holds only for my normal and longish lenses; my 50mm Rollei is quite bad off center.) The Leica primes also show some barrel distortion, much less than other 35mm lenses (which is why I chose them), but still more than I have use for in architectural work. So I find that if I want straight lines straight and sharpness in the corners, I have to use MF or LF, regardless of whether there is a chip or film in the camera. Frank --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> Ernst, > > You wrote, in part: > > >... > > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 ... > > Yes, especially if fine detail and resolution are most significant. > > But, the question for me may be: How much of the typical 16 x 20 inch fine > art image is affected by the resolution beyond what this 8 mp camera can > capture? > > I made a set of comparison prints using the Rebel and various medium format > camera and films. My sampling of an admittedly limited group of typical, > educated (but not photo-obsessed) types suggests they don't see much of the > fine detail advantage that the film technically holds. > > The limiting factor or artifact that everyone seemed to see the most in my > sample prints was the grain of the 100 ISO film. > > "Sharpness" -- from even a close, "book-reading" distance -- is about a draw > between my unprocessed, Nikon 8000 scanned, medium format film prints and 8 > mp versions. I can see the difference, but it's probably not going to be > visible in 16 x 20" real world prints. > > What I have found with my old Tmax 100 medium format negatives is the extent > to which the grain limited me. If one looks at the photograph as an > information medium and what we do as information processing, I want the > maximum useable information to be accessible to the viewer as easily as > possible. For this, I want the best signal-to-noise ratio over the > "relevant" frequencies. The relevance of the frequencies is probably a bell > curve that changes with viewing distance and image size -- and it's probably > heavily skewed to the lower frequencies in prints that are judged in part on > their "artistic" merit. The peak of that bell curve and, perhaps, 95% of > the area under that curve seem to be well within what the 8 mp Rebel can do > very easily, even at a 16 x 20 size. > > I'm currently of the opinion that this relatively cheap little Canon Digital > Rebel XT (aka 350D), even with its 18 - 55 mm II zoom, has just knocked off > most of my medium format film-camera combos for most situations. > > The low noise of the Canon sensor is a huge part of the formula. (I'm not > sure how good the other sensors are. I suspect this may be where Canon > kills Kodak. I think Kodak poured money into CCD technology, which was once > thought to be the low-noise leader, but which suffered other disadvantages. > Among other things, CCD technology has, apparently, not as directly > benefited from the CMOS microprocessor and memory R&D and advances.) > > Combining the Canon's inherently low noise I've seen so far with the ease > with which I can multi-sample on a tripod, and the limiting factor of the > grain in 100 ISO film virtually kills the currently existing film market for > me. My freezer full of TP may be the end of film for me. > > Of course, the real world use of this camera may change my opinions. > > > Paul > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Paul Roark wrote: > > > > > > > >I think MF Tech Pan is still my ultimate in quality, but there is no > > reason > > >to bother with MF Tmax 100, which is now the finest grain camera film > > Kodak > > >makes since it discontinued Tech Pan. So, I'm saving the stockpile of TP > > >for when I really want to go to 22 x 28 or above, and the Rebel is going > > to > > >replace my "quick and easy" Fuji GA 645 Zi that used to have higher-speed > > >film in it for the occasional hand held shot. > > > > > >Paul > > >www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > Printed some color prints of a Canon 20D on the Epson 10000 (MIS 7600 > > inks) with Qimage extrapolation and sharpening. I wasn't surprised by > > the quality but my customer was very surprised, his 2100 and Photoshop > > (on a Mac) couldn't use all the information available, now he knows > > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 > > and wet mount scans on the Nikon 8000 but it takes a lot more work. > > > > Ernst > >
2005-04-23 by Paul Roark
> Shoot 4x5 Tri-X or TMax and drum scan it and you will see a huge > difference, > especially in the dynamic range. > + & - auto bracketing on a tripod will be standard procedure. I expect the dynamic range problem to be easily dealt with. I have never seen any camera-film that can deliver more information than my mf TP, at least up to 22 x 28. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
2005-04-23 by Paul Roark
> Paul, just curious: > > Did you ever use the T-Max Reversal Kit for making slides? > Not the kit, but I've worked several reversal film systems. What I saw most in the approaches I tried was a contrast increase. I take the modulation transfer function as the most relevant measure of "sharpness," and that usually is better with the negative processes. Apparent sharpness increases with contrast because it gets transmitted more effectively. That is a big part of my being so interested in signal to noise ratio. I amplify the fine detail to the point it offsets the MFT (or more). All too often with Tmax or T400CN or any film but TP in MF, the noise gets in the way of this. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
2005-04-23 by Paul Roark
>... I wonder how Paul's > comparison prints would compare if he used XP-2 Super I use T400CN, which I found to be as good as any of the chromogenics, and not close to Tmax 100. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
2005-04-23 by Clayton Jones
Hello Scott, I'm like Paul, got an 8mp Canon Pro-1, smaller sensor than the 350T or 20D, but still was amazed at the quality resulting from no film grain. The lens quality is a major factor. 8mp is a lot of info capture ability, and the lens has to deliver or you get mush. >What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different >image capture modus operandi. I print from 4x5 to 11x14. >what's going on prior to editting and printing the digital image. I do RAW conversion using the Canon software, Color to BW conversion in PS CS using ChMix+HueSat, and print on matte paper with a 2200, mostly Eboni-BO, with some work in UTx3 (a modified UT7), and also now experimenting with Steve K's 2K technique. Regards, Clayton Info on black and white digital printing at http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
2005-04-23 by Ernst Dinkla
Paul, you wrote: > >I'm currently of the opinion that this relatively cheap little Canon Digital >Rebel XT (aka 350D), even with its 18 - 55 mm II zoom, has just knocked off >most of my medium format film-camera combos for most situations. > >The low noise of the Canon sensor is a huge part of the formula. (I'm not >sure how good the other sensors are. I suspect this may be where Canon >kills Kodak. I think Kodak poured money into CCD technology, which was once >thought to be the low-noise leader, but which suffered other disadvantages. >Among other things, CCD technology has, apparently, not as directly >benefited from the CMOS microprocessor and memory R&D and advances.) > >Combining the Canon's inherently low noise I've seen so far with the ease >with which I can multi-sample on a tripod, and the limiting factor of the >grain in 100 ISO film virtually kills the currently existing film market for >me. My freezer full of TP may be the end of film for me. > >Of course, the real world use of this camera may change my opinions. > > You are right about this. The fact that the 350D is affordable and delivers the 20D quality makes it so good. The low noise of the Canon CMOS sets new standards. Other manufacturers will get there too, the small 6.1/12 MP Fuji sensors (E550/F810) have that superior lower noise if compared to the other 6 MP sensors, the small 7 MP (Canon G6) are better on signal/noise than the 8 MP that appeared just before them. There's a steady progress for all sensor sizes and types in signal/noise and dynamic range and the price of resolution is going down too. Kodak's 4/3 like used in the Olympus SLRs has far too much noise. There's nothing wrong with the Olympus optics as the C8080 shows. The size of the 4/3 sensor is half of the APS sensor size but much more quality should be possible even within that size. What surprised me was that the Olympus SLRs are bigger cameras than the APS sensor size SLRs. Olympus should revive their Pen Ft models with APS sensors. I'm still expecting a Konica-Minolta that will shift its sensor half a pixel in 4 takes. Its anti-shake technology asks for an extension like that. Others will follow. What will be a nice 10 MP for action is then also a nice 40 MP landscape camera on the tripod. That's what keeps me from buying the Canon 350D right now. The next generation will still follow Moore's law and come with twice what this generation offers. Given the few pictures I make I can be patient. I can live with the fact that others have better and faster cameras than I have. My customers always had better cameras. But next year I may join you and abandon the MF folders. An 18-55 mm zoom will be enough for me too. Maybe a zoom that's a bit shorter + a macro prime of 60 mm if I can afford it. Nothing longer. Ernst
2005-04-23 by Paul Roark
Frank, I've compared tests with the cheap but considered "good" Canon 18 - 55 mm zoom against my 1.8 Canon EF 50 mm. The 50 mm is a cheap but very good lens. At f 11 they are essentially the same. Wider than f11 both suffer at the edges, with the zoom suffering more. Wide open the zoom contrast at 55 mm is visibly low. So, with limited testing, my initial view is that lens quality continues to be a significant factor. On the tripod at f11 and f16 (a very pleasant surprise) the zoom is probably going to be good enough. I don't do serious hand held shooting (yet), so the zoom is probably going to be fine for me and my tripod shooting, where I want the smaller apertures. It has the quality at f 11 & 16 that I need. I think the Rebel XT is going to be terrific with the fast single focal length lenses at 1/250 and faster. So, while the zoom will probably stay on the camera, I may carry my 85mm 1.8 lens for hand held telephoto shots. It's the equivalent of a 135mm -- a nice light and fast 135. (I think I like the smaller format.) Paul www.PaulRoark.com
> -----Original Message----- > From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of > frank1o05 > Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 10:05 AM > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: What do forum folks use most for image capture? > > > > Paul, > > How does lens quality enter into the picture? I sometimes shoot (recent) > Leica-M lenses. > They are quite soft towards the corners when compared to MF (Rollei) or LF > lenses at the > same (and even at different) magnification ratios. (All shot at optimum > apertures: f/5.6, f/ > 11, f/22 respectively. The MF comparison holds only for my normal and > longish lenses; my > 50mm Rollei is quite bad off center.) The Leica primes also show some > barrel distortion, > much less than other 35mm lenses (which is why I chose them), but still > more than I have > use for in architectural work. So I find that if I want straight lines > straight and sharpness in > the corners, I have to use MF or LF, regardless of whether there is a chip > or film in the > camera. > > Frank > > > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" > <paul.roark@v...> > wrote: > > Ernst, > > > > You wrote, in part: > > > > >... > > > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 > ... > > > > Yes, especially if fine detail and resolution are most significant. > > > > But, the question for me may be: How much of the typical 16 x 20 inch > fine > > art image is affected by the resolution beyond what this 8 mp camera can > > capture? > > > > I made a set of comparison prints using the Rebel and various medium > format > > camera and films. My sampling of an admittedly limited group of > typical, > > educated (but not photo-obsessed) types suggests they don't see much of > the > > fine detail advantage that the film technically holds. > > > > The limiting factor or artifact that everyone seemed to see the most in > my > > sample prints was the grain of the 100 ISO film. > > > > "Sharpness" -- from even a close, "book-reading" distance -- is about a > draw > > between my unprocessed, Nikon 8000 scanned, medium format film prints > and 8 > > mp versions. I can see the difference, but it's probably not going to > be > > visible in 16 x 20" real world prints. > > > > What I have found with my old Tmax 100 medium format negatives is the > extent > > to which the grain limited me. If one looks at the photograph as an > > information medium and what we do as information processing, I want the > > maximum useable information to be accessible to the viewer as easily as > > possible. For this, I want the best signal-to-noise ratio over the > > "relevant" frequencies. The relevance of the frequencies is probably a > bell > > curve that changes with viewing distance and image size -- and it's > probably > > heavily skewed to the lower frequencies in prints that are judged in > part on > > their "artistic" merit. The peak of that bell curve and, perhaps, 95% > of > > the area under that curve seem to be well within what the 8 mp Rebel can > do > > very easily, even at a 16 x 20 size. > > > > I'm currently of the opinion that this relatively cheap little Canon > Digital > > Rebel XT (aka 350D), even with its 18 - 55 mm II zoom, has just knocked > off > > most of my medium format film-camera combos for most situations. > > > > The low noise of the Canon sensor is a huge part of the formula. (I'm > not > > sure how good the other sensors are. I suspect this may be where Canon > > kills Kodak. I think Kodak poured money into CCD technology, which was > once > > thought to be the low-noise leader, but which suffered other > disadvantages. > > Among other things, CCD technology has, apparently, not as directly > > benefited from the CMOS microprocessor and memory R&D and advances.) > > > > Combining the Canon's inherently low noise I've seen so far with the > ease > > with which I can multi-sample on a tripod, and the limiting factor of > the > > grain in 100 ISO film virtually kills the currently existing film market > for > > me. My freezer full of TP may be the end of film for me. > > > > Of course, the real world use of this camera may change my opinions. > > > > > > Paul > > www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > > > Paul Roark wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >I think MF Tech Pan is still my ultimate in quality, but there is no > > > reason > > > >to bother with MF Tmax 100, which is now the finest grain camera film > > > Kodak > > > >makes since it discontinued Tech Pan. So, I'm saving the stockpile > of TP > > > >for when I really want to go to 22 x 28 or above, and the Rebel is > going > > > to > > > >replace my "quick and easy" Fuji GA 645 Zi that used to have higher- > speed > > > >film in it for the occasional hand held shot. > > > > > > > >Paul > > > >www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Printed some color prints of a Canon 20D on the Epson 10000 (MIS 7600 > > > inks) with Qimage extrapolation and sharpening. I wasn't surprised by > > > the quality but my customer was very surprised, his 2100 and Photoshop > > > (on a Mac) couldn't use all the information available, now he knows > > > what's possible with his 20D. I could still beat it with the Iskra 6x6 > > > and wet mount scans on the Nikon 8000 but it takes a lot more work. > > > > > > Ernst > > > > > > > > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as > they are often being updated. > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames. > Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the > membership without notice. > - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W > printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from > the membership. > - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and > guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner > and Moderators. See "Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files > section: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/ > > BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT > YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE "OWNER" AND > "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO > YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR > EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF > PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE > "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN > ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE > OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) > UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) > STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT > YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE > PRINT YAHOO GROUP. > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >
2005-04-24 by Paul Roark
Ernst, >... > The fact that the 350D is affordable and > delivers the 20D quality makes it so good. The low noise of the Canon > CMOS sets new standards... Add that to my having a bunch of Canon lenses and an old EOS that is dying, and it made the purchase of the 350D (Digital Rebel XT in the U.S.) a rather easy decision. > There's a steady progress for all sensor sizes and types in signal/noise > and dynamic range and the price of resolution is going down too. Yes, I've followed the semiconductor industry for years. They have been saying they'll hit the wall for years, but the wall has kept receding as they approach it. The progress will probably continue for at least as long as I'm alive (and I care much less about after than time). > Kodak's 4/3 like used in the Olympus SLRs has far too much noise. When I saw Intel give up on the technology at least a decade ago, I read it as a big signal. Dominant companies like Kodak almost never can make the transition when there is a paradigm change. It's sad to see the giants whither, but that is the nature of things. > Olympus should revive their Pen Ft models with APS sensors. That was a fine little camera. You're right. > I'm still expecting a Konica-Minolta that will shift its sensor half a > pixel in 4 takes. Its anti-shake technology asks for an extension like > that. Others will follow. What will be a nice 10 MP for action is then > also a nice 40 MP landscape camera on the tripod. Yes, I think the Konica-Minolta concept could be a breakthrough. > That's what keeps me from buying the Canon 350D right now. The next > generation will still follow Moore's law and come with twice what this > generation offers... Yes, but if one follows that argument too much in a high technology field like this, one never does anything. I felt it was time to get in, in part to not get too far behind the learning curve. And, it's just plain fun to explore a new technology. So, like with my old EOS -- the first affordable Canon AF with mirror lock up -- when enough of my requirements are met, I jump, even if I know next year I'll be salivating over the newer, better model. Bear in mind that Moore's law does not entirely apply to this field. It is based to a significant degree on the shrinking die size of the individual chips. With camera sensors, there will probably be plateaus of stability. The chip sizes will decrease, but since there will be economies of scale in the lens and other ancillary fields, that might lead to the sensors tending to stay at a given size for some time. I expect stair steps in that size decrease, but it's speculation. > An 18-55 mm zoom will be enough for me > too. Maybe a zoom that's a bit shorter + a macro prime of 60 mm if I can > afford it. Canon has a nice, but not cheap 10 - 22 mm EF-S zoom that is tempting, but not cheap. That plus a good macro f 2.8 (or better) fixed focus 50 or 60 might be the ticket. The worst part of the 350D I've found so far is the tripod handling. I miss the big, easy to read dials. Paul www.PaulRoark.com
2005-04-24 by Christer Rosewelll
Scott, I attended a seminar in New Orleans by noted photographer Seth Resnick about a year ago where he projected an image on a wall, blowing up a detail of an eye to fill a wall probably 20 x 12. It was shot with the 11 MB Canon 1Ds - talk about sharp. The whole image would probably have covered a wall about 50' long, No grain. The Canon CMOS sensor is truly amazing - just as Paul Roark says in a previous post. Christer Christer, AKA Christer Rosewell http://www.ChristerArt.com 3.6 million visitors to date.. On Apr 23, 2005, at 2:31 PM, DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com wrote: > From: "scott_now_coming" <scott_now_coming@...> > Subject: Re: What do forum folks use most for image capture? > > > Paul, just curious: > > Did you ever use the T-Max Reversal Kit for making slides? > > That stuff was incredible. > > I projected a slide on a wall to 15 feet high. > > You could walk right up to the wall and take a look and there was NO > grain! > > It was amazing. > > I don't know if it would have beat TP developed in it's special TP > developer, but it would definitly give it a run for it's money. > > Just a thought............. > > > Scott [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2005-04-24 by Diane Fields
That's what I've been wondering about the XT. I currently shoot with a 10D (and sometimes a D60 and still have one of the D30's); I had access to an XT and suspected it would feel very out of balance with one of the larger zooms. I use both primes and zooms depending upon the situation and have considered the XT as an interim body until I buy the 20D successor or a FF body. I'm finding your assessment of the 8MP to your MF and others perceptions of the prints to be very interesting. Diane
----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Roark To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 6:04 PM Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Re: What do forum folks use most for image capture? Frank, I've compared tests with the cheap but considered "good" Canon 18 - 55 mm zoom against my 1.8 Canon EF 50 mm. The 50 mm is a cheap but very good lens. At f 11 they are essentially the same. Wider than f11 both suffer at the edges, with the zoom suffering more. Wide open the zoom contrast at 55 mm is visibly low. So, with limited testing, my initial view is that lens quality continues to be a significant factor. On the tripod at f11 and f16 (a very pleasant surprise) the zoom is probably going to be good enough. I don't do serious hand held shooting (yet), so the zoom is probably going to be fine for me and my tripod shooting, where I want the smaller apertures. It has the quality at f 11 & 16 that I need. I think the Rebel XT is going to be terrific with the fast single focal length lenses at 1/250 and faster. So, while the zoom will probably stay on the camera, I may carry my 85mm 1.8 lens for hand held telephoto shots. It's the equivalent of a 135mm -- a nice light and fast 135. (I think I like the smaller format.) Paul www.PaulRoark.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2005-04-24 by Walt Mucha
>That's what I've been wondering about the XT. I currently shoot with a 10D (and sometimes a D60 and still have one of the D30's); I had access to an XT and suspected it would feel very out of balance with one of the larger zooms. I use both primes and zooms depending upon the situation and have considered the XT as an interim body until I buy the 20D successor or a FF body. I'm finding your assessment of the 8MP to your MF and others perceptions of the prints to be very interesting. It really helps to have the optional grip/battery pack on the camera. It adds weight but it helps a lot with the balance and doesen't feel like a toy. Regards, Walt http://www.kauaiphotos.biz
2005-04-24 by Clayton Jones
Paul, It's been fun to follow this thread and read your reports. I remember when I got my 8mp Canon Pro-1 last year and it first dawned on me the significance of no film grain (do you remember the 2 prints I sent you, girl playing in fountain and the newspaper rack?). The results are pretty amazing, even though the pro-1 sensor is much smaller than the XT/20D. The Pro-1 is blessed with an outstanding lens, and I have printed sections of images at up to 22x30 equivalent that look very good at normal viewing distance. The only limitations seem to be actual image resolution and pixellation. So certainly the XT will do even better. One thing about the Pro-1 is the smaller sensor gives huge DOF. So even though the lens is 28-200 equiv., the max aperture range is a fast 2.4-3.5. So I end up doing most work, even landscapes requiring full DOF, at f/4.0 - 5.6, which is the lens' sweet spot (I admit I'm spoiled rotten now). You have surely found a similar advantage in scaling down from MF to APS sensor size. One thing I went through was a period of mourning and withdrawal symptoms because my images no longer had the Tri-X look I was so used to. I've gotten over it and am very happy with what I'm getting now. I figure the "look" was a combination of grain structure and spectral response. I'm curious about what your experience is/will be in this regard, coming from TMax and Tech Pan. I agree it definitely is fun to explore new technology. Just think: we are experiencing a technology shift that is probably equivalent to the printing press, the telephone, and automobiles. Regards, Clayton Info on black and white digital printing at http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
2005-04-24 by Scott McLoughlin
Just wanted to thank all for their thoughtful responses. Lots more digital capture and less negative scanning than I would have anticipated. Lots of food for thought. Scott
2005-04-24 by Richard
I capture digital (EOS 20D), 35mm (Olympus OM, Tri-X) and medium format (Bronica GS1, Velvia, Scala) Film is scanned using Nikon 9000 I'm not getting into the quality debate of Digital vs Analogue, but here are a few observations I choose the equipment for shooting based on what I'm doing usually, or even the mood that I'm in! The Olympus is great for unobtrusive candid and street photography, and I like the film grain. I also just like using the camera and lenses. EOS 20D is great for stock photography and I also use it for some studio work with flash - I don't actually "enjoy" using it though. I often use it as a sort of Polaroid for the Bronica The Bronica still gives for my money technically the best results even if the workflow is complicated. I use it for reproducing artwork and find that colour reproduction with studio flash is more faithful and somehow richer than the Canon. I'd like to try a higher end digital capture to short circuit the workflow, but can't quite justify the price Capture software. Silverfast AI for the Nikon, Breezebrowser for image management, Photokit sharpener for sharpening (but mostly only output sharpening), Fred Miranda Resize Pro for upsizing if required and Powerretouche B/W studio for black and white conversion if I need to repurpose a colour original _____
From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott McLoughlin Sent: 23 April 2005 10:31 To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Digital BW] What do forum folks use most for image capture? I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different image capture modus operandi. I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's going on prior to editting and printing the digital image. Thanks much. Scott Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as they are often being updated. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. Please follow these basic guidelines: - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the membership without notice. - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from the membership. - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and Moderators. See "Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/ BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP. _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Uns ubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2005-04-24 by guy washburn
The Canon 10-22 is a sweet lens. 9.5 inch minimum focus distance allows some amazing things to be done with it. Guy --- Paul Roark <paul.roark@...> wrote: > > Canon has a nice, but not cheap 10 - 22 mm EF-S zoom > that is tempting, but > not cheap. That plus a good macro f 2.8 (or better) > fixed focus 50 or 60 > might be the ticket. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
2005-04-24 by Clayton Jones
Scott, >Just wanted to thank all for their thoughtful responses. Lots >more digital capture and less negative scanning than I would >have anticipated. Lots of food for thought. There is certainly a lot less discussion about scanning than there was 3 years ago. The digicam technology has improved so much since then that it is steadily and relentlessly, like a glacier, taking over. Most likely, one by one, often without fanfare, individual photographers are reaching that point where they give it a try, like what they find, and begin their own personal transformation. It can't be stopped or slowed, any more than the automobile could in horse and buggy days. It happened to me. I thought I'd never switch. But once I tried it I was hooked and the process was set in motion. I'll never forget when I bought my first el cheapo P&S digicam (a Kodak no less, the digital equivalent of the Kodak Brownie, my first film camera on my 8th birthday), took it on a trip, and shot with complete abandon with no concern about film/processing costs and/or hours in the darkroom. It was a revelation. It's only a matter of time. Regards, Clayton Info on black and white digital printing at http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
2005-04-24 by Seth
Let me clarify what I am about to say. I shoot Nikon AND I agree Canon PROFESSIONAL digital is better at this point. Now, let's think this through. 1. A wall is has no real reflection quality or ability to hold sharpness. 2. The human eye does a LOT of compensation for color and sharpness for everything it views. The exact reason you CANNOT see true depth-of-field when stopping down in the viewfinder. The eye will over compensate for what you think you see. 3. Seth Resnick gets paid to do this. Does anyone think Seth PAYS for those "demo" cameras from Canon? It's the same as a story in the recent "Studio & Design" by George Tiedemann. Whether or not S&D pays him for writing, does anyone really think he has to buy a D2X when he can have a "demo?" In ANY case, who knows what processing was done to any image? I have been to Nikon, Canon and NPPA "short courses." They all are based on "WOW." Seth ==-----Original Message----- == On ==Behalf Of Christer Rosewelll == ==I attended a seminar in New Orleans by noted photographer ==Seth Resnick about a year ago where he projected an image on ==a wall, blowing up a detail of an eye to fill a wall probably ==20 x 12. It was shot with the ==11 MB Canon 1Ds - talk about sharp. The whole image would ==probably have covered a wall about 50' long, == ==No grain. The Canon CMOS sensor is truly amazing - just as ==Paul Roark says in a previous post. ==
2005-04-25 by Daniel Ridings
Rolleiflex, Rolleicord, Leica. Neopan 400, scan the negative. C86 with UT EZW. Daniel Ridings http://www.dlridings.com/paw2005 Scott McLoughlin wrote:
> I guess, I'm looking for a bit of a survey. Digital? Scanned film? > Scanned B&W, color or chromes? What film formats? What scanner? > What B&W conversion mechanism, where applicable. > > What enlargements do folks usually aim to achieve from the different > image capture modus operandi. > > I know folks here aim for fine prints, so I'm curious about what's going > on prior to editting and printing the digital image. > > Thanks much. > > Scott
2005-04-25 by helen_bach2003
Though I use a digital camera for stuff intended for the web, I prefer to use neg film for the snaps that will be printed: 35 mm and MF. Kodak 100UC, 400UC, Portra 800 and a few B&W films. Ektachrome 320T (EPJ) is the only slide film that I use in any great quantity, usually pushed two. I scan using a Nikon 5000 and 9000. To get the maximum density range out of the negs I usually set the film type to 'positive' and invert with the RGB curve in Nikonscan - this is a simple and direct method that I have never heard of anyone else using, but I'm sure that a lot of people must use it. For B&W I usually scan straight to greyscale, unless it was developed in a staining dev, in which case I'll scan in RGB and look at the channels. Print size is normally 10 x 15 for 35 mm and 11 x 14 for MF. Oh, and I use a Realist with 100UC or Portra 100T to produce 3.5x7 stereocards on my R800. Best, Helen
2005-04-25 by bfwoolner
>I usually set the film type to 'positive' and invert with the RGB curve in >Nikonscan
----- Original Message ----- From: "helen_bach2003" <helenbach@...>< Could you expand/explain on the invert portion of your workflow? I scan film type positive but am unaware of the RGB curve to invert. Thanks. Barbara
2005-05-10 by helen_bach2003
Sorry to have taken so long to reply - I was on vacation. This is about scanning negs as positives to get the full density range of the neg, with Nikonscan. All the methods I've read about export a negative image from Nikonscan, then invert later in Photoshop or whatever. It is easy to scan as a positive and invert in Nikonscan by applying a reverse RGB curve. I set the black and white points of each of the individual R, G and B curves to get the full density range of each channel in the conventional way, then use a downward-sloping (left to right, ie 0 becomes 255, 255 becomes 0) RGB curve to invert. Colour adjustments can be carried out by tweaking the individual R, G and B curves and you see the results as a positive. ROC can be used, if you wish. I hope that explanation makes sense. Best, Helen "bfwoolner" <bfwoolner@c...> wrote: ... > Could you expand/explain on the invert portion of your workflow? I scan
> film type positive but am unaware of the RGB curve to invert. > > Thanks. > Barbara
2005-05-10 by Djon
re: Vuescan Vs pos>inversion Helen, you've pursued the pos>inversion process far more intensively than I have, but as a former-longtime-silver-printer (FLSP) I prefere Vuescan (or Vuescan Pro). I'm lazy. Vuescan makes superb B&W scans VERY easy: fewer steps, no manipulation other than the usual post-processing for dust/scratches, USM, contrast/density etc. I'm amazed that Nikon didn't bundle my Nikon V with VueScan... A doubt: Comparing black-only enlargements from Vuescan TIFFs to inverted Nikonscan TIFFs of the same B&W neg, inverted TIFFs *noticably* lose sharpness, despite allegations that TIFFs are inherently lossless. I don't understand lossy TIFFs, but I don't understand much of this stuff anyway. Vuescan can be downloaded free for a trial run (browse Vuescan or Hamrick software)...it's watermarked but useful for testing... Djon > > All the methods I've read about export a negative image from > Nikonscan, > then invert later in Photoshop or whatever. It is easy to scan as a
> positive and invert in Nikonscan by applying a reverse RGB curve. > Best, > Helen > rbara