--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "gradyvillejb"
<jb1@g...> wrote:
> I don't mind the work - it sort of falls in with what i do for a
living, so i can write off all
> expenses etc... Which third party inks would you recommend the most?
>
Just about everyone here would recommend the MIS UT series inks, but
it also depends what you want to do. If B/W with selective tones is
the major focus, then those would be fine/best. If you want to do B/W
with selective areas of color, then it gets a little harder (until
the new printers come out). The new 3 black inks should yield
slightly better prints than the two blacks of the "current" printers,
four blacks would probably be better. A driver that is better than
the Epson drivers (a RIP) would also be a key in repeatable prints,
with the most control, and therefore should produce the best results.
Now you can set the point where the different shades mix together
into one channel, and send jobs in CMYK, or atleast make your output
profiles in CMYK so that you can control the black generation. With
good control of the color and black channels, you should be able to
send an image that has both B/W and color elements within the same
image, and get completely neutral grays with no metamerism, as well
as beautiful color. Inks will of course play a major role too, do you
stay with the OEM inks, or stray onto the path of third party inks. I
like experimenting so it's third party inks for me, but that's a
personal choice. And then there are the paper choices, way to many to
go into...
So what does all this mean... If you want the absolute most complete
control over the whole process, it would involve a good RIP (about
$500 USD for the 4X00 printers), good quality hardware
(spectrophotometer) based profile creation package that is capable of
making CMYK, or better yet 6, 7, or 8 channel profiles, with a method
to make a custom GCR curve for the black channel. Now within reason,
you can put any ink into any channel, control which inks mix and
where they mix, plus control (as well as possible) the way an image
gets transformed from its color space, to the printer's color space.
The profiling package for this level of control will cost somewhere
around $2000+, if you want to do the multi channel profiles, probably
cost more like $3000+.
Now how many channels do you need in a printer? That's a good
question, and there isn't a good answer other than the more the
better (to a point). You might be able to use a 6 color printer for
all of your work by removing 2 of the colors, and mixing a custom set
of black inks (3 of them) and leave the C, M, and Y inks in for
toning and a little bit of color work, as well as B/W with color
elements. So you might want to look for a used 7500 to save a little
money, and get bigger output. Or you could look at the 7600 or 4000,
then you could build a four black, plus CMY machine. You would of
course need to use third party inks to deal with this, and the UT
mixed with OEM or third party CMY would be a good choice. The 4800
would be a good choice, since it is already set for all of this, I
would still recommend the RIP and profile creation package to gain
the most control.
If you go with all third party inks, and want to mix your our blacks,
I would suggest finding a supplier of the Image Specialists UltraPro
inks. If you don't want to mix your own, the UT series inks with
toners or CMY UltraChrome replacement inks. The UltraPro inks have
less gloss differential than previous inks, and also a better dmax
with the matte black than the Eboni that most people use. The gain is
slight, but the big thing is that this matte black holds it density
better as you overload the paper with too much ink (yes it uses a
different carrier from the Eboni).
And all of this is just how I would approach the task, I'm certain
there will be other opinions, and many will be much cheaper. But this
reflects what I consider the best possible control, which in the end
should yield the best possible results for your given needs with the
Epson hardware (old and new). And there is one final choice... You
could find a print shop that is really good, and let them worry about
all the details, but you would lose some control, and you wouldn't
learn as much as you would printing for yourself.