Digital BW, The Print

Paul, I just mixed the HP PK with glop about 25/75 ratio.  After some purge patterns and 
several cleaning cycles it appears that they are printing smooth.  I'll probably up the ratio to 
30/70 as you recommended since the HP PK with glop in the LC position is printing a little 
lighter than the light warm gray in the LM position.  I'm going to let it sit a couple days 
before profiling, maybe do a nozzle check tomorrow.  I've got some Cranes Silver Rag coming 
on Monday; I'm anxious to see how it works with that paper since you said you were getting 
over 2.60 using the full strength HP PK.

I'll keep you posted as to how it progresses.
Randy

I just printed out a OTR inkseparation page at 100% and I am finding that I'm not getting any perceivable gloss differential using HP PK mixed with glop as a base in the LC position at a 
ratio of 25/75.

I also noticed that in the yellow position, where I have glop only on my Epson 1400, that 
once you get over about 70% that additional glop, at the higher percentages, actually 
reduces gloss.

Looks like using glop as a base, with the HP PK, may be worthwhile to counter the usual 
gloss differential of a dilute HP PK as long as the ink stays in suspension and doesn't clog, 
which I guess only time will tell.

Hopefully this next week I will get a chance to profile this mix with undiluted HP PK in the C 
position and HP PK with glop in the LC position, replacing the cool inks in the UT-14 inkset.

Randy

Randy,

I am planning on trying out the HP dilution using Paul's formula in the next
couple weeks when I get everything needed.

 

Am I understanding correctly that you are not using the suggested formula
and are just using HP ink and MIS glop for the dilution? 

 

I will also be testing on my 1400. Can you tell me what ink you have in each
of the six positions on your 1400? 

 

I currently have Eboni6 in the 1400 but also have a set of UT14 carts. 

 

Thanks,

Gary Wagner

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Rancier
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 7:04 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] HP PK with glop & gloss differential

 

I just printed out a OTR inkseparation page at 100% and I am finding that
I'm not getting any perceivable gloss differential using HP PK mixed with
glop as a base in the LC position at a 
ratio of 25/75.




.

 
<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=3702311/grpspId=1705019182/msgId
=95504/stime=1235919829/nc1=5349275/nc2=5170420/nc3=5579902> 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"Randy Rancier" <randy_rancier2004@...> wrote:
>
> I just printed out a QTR inkseparation page at 100% and 
> I am finding that I'm not getting any perceivable gloss
> differential using HP PK mixed with glop as a base in 
> the LC position at a ratio of 25/75.

Do you have a comparison print that uses the C6 base for dilution at 
the same 25/75 ratio?

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

>
> "Randy Rancier" <randy_rancier2004@> wrote:
> >
> > I just printed out a QTR inkseparation page at 100% and 
> > I am finding that I'm not getting any perceivable gloss
> > differential using HP PK mixed with glop as a base in 
> > the LC position at a ratio of 25/75.
> 
> Do you have a comparison print that uses the C6 base for dilution at 
> the same 25/75 ratio?
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>
No comparison prints, although I may change to a 30/70 ratio as you had once suggested 
so that the density matches closer to the warm LK.  I probably won't bother with trying the 
C6 base if the glob base works; less mixing and looks as though it may fix the gloss 
differential problem.

I forgot to mention in my earlier post that the QTR inkseparation page was printed on 
ILFORD Gold Fibre Silk.  I will be profiling it this week with Cranes Silver Rag.
Randy

"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> I am planning on trying out the HP dilution using Paul's formula in the next
> couple weeks when I get everything needed.
> 
>   Am I understanding correctly that you are not using the suggested formula
> and are just using HP ink and MIS glop for the dilution? 

Yes that is correct; I have substituted undiluted HP PK for the cool PK in the C position and 
a HP PK diluted with MIS glop for the LK in the LC position along with the other inks in the 
UT-14 inkset from MIS.  I have done this in an attempt to reduce or eliminate the reported 
gloss differential on glossy papers when diluting the HP PK with the C6 base.  I am 
experimenting with the HP PK inks in hopes of a more fade resistant cool PK/LK and also 
because Paul reported of achieving a dmax of over 2.60 (close to 2.70) when used in 
combination with Cranes Silver Rag.
>  
> 
> I will also be testing on my 1400. Can you tell me what ink you have in each
> of the six positions on your 1400? 


I am using the other inks in the UT-14 inkset.  If the HP PK glop combination sufficiently 
reduces the gloss differential, this could open up the Y position for another ink of choice 
if desired, depending on the paper being used.  Although I suppose some papers may still 
require an application of glop depending on ones tolerance for gloss differential.  I will 
probably be using with just the Silver Rag for (semi) glossy, and probably a good fine art 
matt paper I haven't decided on that doesn't use OBA.

Randy

Randy,

Thanks for the info. 

 

What do you think about having HP PK in all six positions at different
dilutions using glop? 

 

I am intending on using Eboni6 in the K and LK positions to reduce cost and
PK at dilutions in the other positions. I am trying not to use any inks with
added color and still get a neutral or cool toned image. It would be great
if this would produce a good print on glossy also.

Thanks,

Gary Wagner

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Rancier
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 10:32 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] HP PK with glop & gloss differential

 

"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> I am planning on trying out the HP dilution using Paul's formula in the
next
> couple weeks when I get everything needed.
> 
> Am I understanding correctly that you are not using the suggested formula
> and are just using HP ink and MIS glop for the dilution? 

Yes that is correct; I have substituted undiluted HP PK for the cool PK in
the C position and 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Rancier" 
> >   Am I understanding correctly that you are not using the
suggested formula
> > and are just using HP ink and MIS glop for the dilution? 
> 
> Yes that is correct; I have substituted undiluted HP PK for the cool
PK in the C position and 
> a HP PK diluted with MIS glop for the LK in the LC position


Has this been checked to make sure they mix properly and don't form a
goo like some dye/pigment mixes form. Also I though that HP had their
own GLOP in large format carts that could be used, and would think
this more suitable for mixing with HP inks.

I am just concerned that the full interaction between the HP inks and
third party materials is not fully explored to determine if it is all
safe enough to recommend that other people adopt it. Maybe I worry
needlessly, but I would certainly approach this with caution and a
printer that I considered expendable.

"Greg" <dfaprinting@...> wrote:

> I am just concerned that the full interaction between the HP inks 
and
> third party materials is not fully explored to determine if it is 
all
> safe enough to recommend that other people adopt it. Maybe I worry
> needlessly, but I would certainly approach this with caution and a
> printer that I considered expendable.

HP 3100 pigment mixing is clearly experimental.  So, I agree with 
Greg, caution is advised.  Don't put your new, expensive printer at 
risk.

Later this week I'll turn on my Epson R220 with an HP-C6 base mix to 
see if that printer has turned to stone in the test month of 
idleness.  I've had HP PK, undiluted, in a 1400 with Eboni and Eboni-
6-Y (2%) for about a month also, with one week being the longest idle 
time.  So far, there is no evidence of problems, but the HP-MIS Glop 
mixing does introduce more variables.  However, trying these things 
is probably the only way we'll find out, and if it works and solves 
some problems, we have that many more options available to us.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark"
<pr_roark@...> wrote:
>
> "Greg" <dfaprinting@> wrote:
> 
> > I am just concerned that the full interaction between the HP inks 
> and
> > third party materials is not fully explored to determine if it is 
> all
> > safe enough to recommend that other people adopt it. Maybe I worry
> > needlessly, but I would certainly approach this with caution and a
> > printer that I considered expendable.
> 
> HP 3100 pigment mixing is clearly experimental.  So, I agree with 
> Greg, caution is advised.  Don't put your new, expensive printer at 
> risk.
> 
> Later this week I'll turn on my Epson R220 with an HP-C6 base mix to 
> see if that printer has turned to stone in the test month of 
> idleness.  I've had HP PK, undiluted, in a 1400 with Eboni and Eboni-
> 6-Y (2%) for about a month also, with one week being the longest idle 
> time.  So far, there is no evidence of problems, but the HP-MIS Glop 
> mixing does introduce more variables.  However, trying these things 
> is probably the only way we'll find out, and if it works and solves 
> some problems, we have that many more options available to us.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>


Don't get me wrong, it is something that needs to be tested, but I
think mixing it in a beaker and letting it sit might have been a good
idea. Also how is the longevity affected with this mix, this being
something that can not be determined in a short amount of time.

"Greg" <dfaprinting@...> wrote:
>
>... I
> think mixing it in a beaker and letting it sit might have been a good
> idea.

What I do first if mix it, let it sit for a day, and then put it in the 
centrifuge.  My assumption is that serious agglomerations will settle 
and I'll see a significant impact of that after it's been a spin.

> Also how is the longevity affected with this mix, this being
> something that can not be determined in a short amount of time.

Also a good question.  I'll do some fade testing after all else seems 
to be OK.  The HP coatings, however, appear to be chemically attached 
to the pigments.  The C6 base is very mild, with only, for example, non-
inonic surfactants in it.  From what I can tell, they have not had any 
impact on the HP coating.  The gloss from the coating, for example, is 
still clearly there when these dilute inks are printed.  If the 
coatings are intact, the internal pigments have probably been un-
affected.  But, there are some assumptions here.  A fade test is the 
called for, and I'll do it.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:
> 
> What do you think about having HP PK in all six positions at different
> dilutions using glop? 

I think it is too early to say about using the glop, I'm taking a chance in using it; I'm just 
hoping it won't clog my machine.  As far as the other dilutions go, that is a question for 
Master Paul.  But, from what I've heard him say in the past I don't believe with the smaller droplet size of the 1400, that there is much of an advantage of using any more than 3 
dilutions.  He's using more dilutions because his 7500 has larger non-variable droplet 
size and the extra dilution's help to smooth out the tones.

>  
> 
> I am intending on using Eboni6 in the K and LK positions to reduce cost and
> PK at dilutions in the other positions. I am trying not to use any inks with
> added color and still get a neutral or cool toned image. It would be great
> if this would produce a good print on glossy also.

The only reason for using the glop as a base, as I see it, is if you are intending to print on 
the glossy papers; otherwise save your money and use the C6 base.  With the HP PK, i 
believe you will get cool to neutral prints depending on the paper, but again this is a 
question for Master Paul.

Randy

"Greg" <dfaprinting@...> wrote:

> > Yes that is correct; I have substituted undiluted HP PK for the cool
> PK in the C position and 
> > a HP PK diluted with MIS glop for the LK in the LC position
> 
> 
> Has this been checked to make sure they mix properly and don't form a
> goo like some dye/pigment mixes form. Also I though that HP had their
> own GLOP in large format carts that could be used, and would think
> this more suitable for mixing with HP inks.

Yes, very good point about the HP glop, but I thought I would try it with what I had; after 
some discussions with Paul I felt that the risk weren't too great, but that is something each 
of us have to consider the risk. If this ends up working I may go for the HP glop.

Correct me if I am wrong Paul, but I believe that most of chemicals or ingredients in the 
C6 base and MIS glop are common to most of the inks themselves and fairly neutral, from 
what I've ascertained from some of Paul's PDF's, so it seems to me that the risk of 
interaction would probably be minimal.  Also, the whole point of HP's resin coated 
pigments is to protect them from environmental interactions, so I conclude that the 
relatively mild or neutral ingredients we are using will do much to compromise the HP 
pigments; of course I could be wrong and is probably a question for a chemical engineer 
familiar with ink chemistry.

> 
> I am just concerned that the full interaction between the HP inks and
> third party materials is not fully explored to determine if it is all
> safe enough to recommend that other people adopt it. Maybe I worry
> needlessly, but I would certainly approach this with caution and a
> printer that I considered expendable.
>
Yes, certainly caution is advised, but nothing ventured nothing gained.  Were not 
recommending that anyone try this yet, we are just making others aware of our 
experimentations, and encouraging discussion and perhaps some insight from someone 
who has perhaps already gone down that road before.

"Randy Rancier" <randy_rancier2004@...> wrote:

> ...
> Correct me if I am wrong Paul, but I believe that most of 
> chemicals or ingredients in the C6 base and MIS glop are 
> common to most of the inks themselves ...

The C6 base uses mostly chemicals that are very common to Epson 
inks.  Epson GO and C6 base are both mostly just water and glycerol.  
The surfactants are usually not specified in the OEM inks, but I 
think most are not that different than what I'm using in the various 
C6 versions.  I'm not a chemist, but my impression is that the non-
ionic surfactants I'm using are not likely to strip off a chemically 
attached coating, which is what I believe the HP pigments use.  They 
may surround it, but I think they are alcohols that just evaporate 
when the ink dries.

I do not know the recipe for Glop. I'd guess it's mostly water, 
glycol (which is in the Photo Flo in the C6 base) and glycerol, but 
with it's own mix of surfactants.  It also has a binder/coating 
material and probably some biocides for long shelf life.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Randy,

 

I have also been experimenting with HP-PK, only mixing it with Paul's C6
base.  I've mixed 30/70 and 9/91 (LPK and LLPK) .  Both of them have higher
gloss than the IS equivalents.  I've also mixed a sepia using only IS inks
for the R1800 (Y, M, and glop).  The sepia has the lowest gloss level of
them all.  I have a hunch the glop you used to mix the HP-PK is actually
holding down the gloss of the final mixture.  The HP-PK pigments are coated
and by themselves are very glossy.  If glop has lower gloss than the HP
pigments (which my tests seem to indicate), the GO will reduce the HP
pigment's gloss on paper.

 

By the way, the GO I am using is IS (Image Specialists) GO.

 

Bob

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob Marsolais wrote:

> I have also been experimenting with HP-PK, only mixing it with Paul's C6
> base.  I've mixed 30/70 and 9/91 (LPK and LLPK) .  Both of them have higher
> gloss than the IS equivalents.  I've also mixed a sepia using only IS inks
> for the R1800 (Y, M, and glop).  The sepia has the lowest gloss level of
> them all.  I have a hunch the glop you used to mix the HP-PK is actually
> holding down the gloss of the final mixture.  The HP-PK pigments are coated
> and by themselves are very glossy.  If glop has lower gloss than the HP
> pigments (which my tests seem to indicate), the GO will reduce the HP
> pigment's gloss on paper.
> 
>  
> 
> By the way, the GO I am using is IS (Image Specialists) GO.


The coating on the Vivera pigment particles isn't enough to 
get an equal gloss in all tone ranges on glossy paper. The 
gloss enhancer in the Z3100 ink set isn't always making a 
better gloss on all spots of a gloss paper, the bare gloss 
paper usually has more gloss than with the GE covering it. 
But at least with the GE the gloss differential is gone over 
the entire image. It also depends on the quantity of the 
gloss enhancer applied, too much gives  the surface some 
gloss texture, the "varnish" isn't smooth in a way. Varying 
the GE/Glop amount independently of the other inks (which is 
possible in a RIP like QTR and my Wasatch RIP), is something 
that should be explored. Using a slightly different gloss 
enhancer/equaliser in the mix than the ink medium is used to 
may make differences in the way the varnish/medium behaves 
when it dries. The bonder/medium in the Glop is most likely 
a PVA or gelatin and there are different  hydrolysis grades 
of both available. Chemically almost the same but with other 
molecule structures. I think the skin formation is quite 
complex and depends on several factors. It has to be seen 
whether the Z3100 GE is better as a "gloss" diluting medium 
too, the way it is applied right now is different to mixing 
it with an ink.

Writing this with a gloss dye print of a Fuji Dry Minilab to 
my left side, collected from the last Photokina. Epson 
inkjet technology in that machine. Ignoring the other 
aspects of dye, the decision to use dye ink delivers a 
problem free, homogene high gloss.

-- 
Met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst


|  Dinkla Grafische Techniek  |
|     www.pigment-print.com    |
|             ( unvollendet )            |

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Marsolais"
<bob@...> wrote:
>
>  
> 
> By the way, the GO I am using is IS (Image Specialists) GO.
> 
>  
> 
> Bob
> 
>  
> 

That would be WJ824 for those interested.

Hello!
 
I made an accurate ICC profile for my Epson 220 printer with Paul Roark's C-6 inks and Epson driver. I used ColorVision Spyder3Print for measurement of 21-Step grayscale and QTR Create-ICC made a profile in a second. I am very pleased and I wonder if I could use this instrument to produce Photoshop curves. I use Canon color printer to make digital negatives and this printer is locked with ICC profile to control color. After copying the negative I would like to measure B&W positive densities and compare them with the ideal
densities and produce a curve. Could Create-ICC, SpyderPrint or any other software do that? Or, could it be possible to extract the curve from ICC profile. Sorry if I am putting dumb questions, but I am still in analog world and it takes some time to learn new things.
 
Thanks in advance, Kemal


      __________________________________________________________
Låna pengar utan säkerhet. Jämför vilkor online hos Kelkoo.
http://www.kelkoo.se/c-100390123-lan-utan-sakerhet.html?partnerId=96915014

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> I use Canon color printer to make digital negatives and this printer 
> is locked with ICC profile to control color. After copying the 
> negative I would like to measure B&W positive densities and compare 
> them with the ideal
> densities and produce a curve. Could Create-ICC, SpyderPrint or any 
> other software do that? Or, could it be possible to extract the curve 
> from ICC profile. Sorry if I am putting dumb questions, but I am still 
> in analog world and it takes some time to learn new things.
I'm not clear whether you want to read the densities of you inkjet 
negative, in which case you'd need to use a densitometer; or whether you 
want to measure the densities of a contact print made from one of those 
negatives. There are some systems out there that do that latter, for 
example Dan Burkholder and Mark Nelson both have systems for making 
inkjet negatives. You might want to Google them and check out there 
systems.  The Spyder Print device could certainly read the densities of 
a print, and it would be too hard to make an adjustment curve.  You 
might want to ask the question at Hybridphoto.com.

> The Spyder Print device could certainly read the densities of
> a print, and it would be too hard to make an adjustment curve.
That should've been: "and it _*wouldn't *_be too hard to make an 
adjustment curve."

Most of what I have seen from them lists a variety of permissible
surfactants. However, Epson literature indicates a preference for
Surfynal(sp?) 465 where possible.

Regards,
Duane


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark"
<pr_roark@...> wrote:

> The surfactants are usually not specified in the OEM inks, but I 
> think most are not that different than what I'm using in the various 
> C6 versions.  I'm not a chemist, but my impression is that the non-
> ionic surfactants I'm using are not likely to strip off a chemically 
> attached coating, which is what I believe the HP pigments use.  They 
> may surround it, but I think they are alcohols that just evaporate 
> when the ink dries.

> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>

Kemal Delic <kemdel2000@...> wrote:

> I made an accurate ICC profile for my Epson 220 printer with 
> Paul Roark's C-6 inks and Epson driver. I used ColorVision 
>  Spyder3Print for measurement of 21-Step grayscale and QTR 
> Create-ICC made a profile in a second. I am very pleased and 

> I use Canon color printer to make digital negatives

> this printer is locked with ICC profile to control color. 
> Aftter copying the negative I would like to measure B&W 
> positive densities and compare them with the ideal
> densities and produce a curve.

> Could Create-ICC, SpyderPrint 

Create ICC-RGB could probably be used to make ICCs that could help 
control the printer.  I'd probably use an ICC with an embedded PS 
curve.  However, the design of the curve that is embedded is probably 
going to have to be manually created, using feedback from the spetro 
reads of 21-step test strips. I don't know of any software that makes 
the PS curves for you.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Randy,

How did the HP PK diluted with Glop turn out? Gloss quality? clogging?
overall success? Are you still using it?

I have been using the HP PK with the C6 formula from Paul on my 1400 and it
is still working good but only on Matte. 

Thanks,

Gray Wagner

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Rancier
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 10:32 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] HP PK with glop & gloss differential

 

"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> I am planning on trying out the HP dilution using Paul's formula in the
next
> couple weeks when I get everything needed.
> 
> Am I understanding correctly that you are not using the suggested formula
> and are just using HP ink and MIS glop for the dilution? 

Yes that is correct; I have substituted undiluted HP PK for the cool PK in
the C position and 
a HP PK diluted with MIS glop for the LK in the LC position along with the
other inks in the 
UT-14 inkset from MIS. I have done this in an attempt to reduce or eliminate
the reported 
gloss differential on glossy papers when diluting the HP PK with the C6
base. I am 
experimenting with the HP PK inks in hopes of a more fade resistant cool
PK/LK and also 
because Paul reported of achieving a dmax of over 2.60 (close to 2.70) when
used in 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> How did the HP PK diluted with Glop turn out? Gloss quality? ...

I'm not speaking for Randy, but he stopped by Gallery Los Olivos a couple weeks ago while on travel.  My impression was that the glop-diluted HP had significantly less bronzing than the C6 diluted versions.  When he gets back from his travels his printer may have sat idle long enough to get some feeling for whether the mix clogs.  As of 2 weeks ago, however, the glop-diluted HP approach sounded like it was working.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Paul,

I see that HP has their own Glop. Have you ever tried it and do you know if
it is the same as MIS?

Thanks,

Gary Wagner

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pr_roark
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 8:03 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] HP PK with glop & gloss differential

 






"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> How did the HP PK diluted with Glop turn out? Gloss quality? ...

I'm not speaking for Randy, but he stopped by Gallery Los Olivos a couple
weeks ago while on travel. My impression was that the glop-diluted HP had
significantly less bronzing than the C6 diluted versions. When he gets back
from his travels his printer may have sat idle long enough to get some
feeling for whether the mix clogs. As of 2 weeks ago, however, the
glop-diluted HP approach sounded like it was working.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"Gary Wagner" <gcwagner@...> wrote:


> I see that HP has their own Glop. Have you ever tried it and 
> do you know if it is the same as MIS?

I have not tried it.  I assume its different than the MIS glop.  

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark" <pr_roark@...> wrote:
> 
> I'm not speaking for Randy, but he stopped by Gallery Los Olivos a couple weeks ago while on travel.  My impression was that the glop-diluted HP had significantly less bronzing than the C6 diluted versions.  When he gets back from his travels his printer may have sat idle long enough to get some feeling for whether the mix clogs.  As of 2 weeks ago, however, the glop-diluted HP approach sounded like it was working.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>

Paul, have you ever tried diluting Eboni with MIS GO. Do you think it would set like epoxy in the cartridge/head or might it work?

cheers

Alistair

"hp9180profile" <owens@...> wrote:


> Paul, have you ever tried diluting Eboni with MIS GO. 

I tried lots of different dilutants, including MIS Glop.  My memory is that its reaction when a drop of Eboni hit the surface of the Glop was rather dramatic.  I believe a did, in fact, make a mix and found that it was not as neutral as a few of the other bases and also that it did not print smoothly.

> Do you think it would set like epoxy in the cartridge/head or
> might it work?

It did not clog the test printer, but I didn't leave it in very long either, given the very rough printing I saw.

By the way, I finally did receive a response from MIS regarding the rumored discontinuance of Eboni-6.  Given the problems MIS has had with people returning it because they had not idea what they were really buying, MIS likes to actually talk to the buyer and be sure they know about the issues.  In effect, MIS wants to be sure the buyers are on this forum.  Eboni-6 is a special inkset that can do some unique things, but it also has some problems that the beginners should not try to deal with.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com