I would suggest Tip Top Audio VCOs (which I don't own): http://www.analoguehaven.com/tiptopaudio/z3000/ You definitely don't want to spend money on the cheapest VCO (doepfer A-110) as you'd be getting the least bang for buck. I heard that some people like to remove the spring from the Doepfer joystick as it doesn't return back to its center with the spring... it returns a bit off center which would be gay in my opinion. OK! YOU REALLLLLLY HAVE TO STOP AND THINK ABOUT THIS: Really think about how you are going to handle mixing/merging, inverting, and splitting/multiplying, and attenuating signals. Some modules have multiple ins and multiple outs, some modules can attenuate, some modules can't, etc. There are many options for signal routing modules. I personally think the best way to go it to get mixing/merging modules that don't have attenuation knobs and get one or two dedicated attenuation modules. The reason for this is that most of the time, a module's input has an attenuator. Signal Mixers and Multipliers that have multiple ins/outs generally don't have attenuation knobs, but they are extremely useful. http://www.noisebug.net/site/analoguesolutions/index.cfm?id=10 http://www.noisebug.net/site/analoguesolutions/index.cfm?id=21 http://www.noisebug.net/site/planb/index.cfm?id=24 http://www.noisebug.net/site/planb/index.cfm?id=18 You need one signal multiplier that is buffered (low signal degradation when multiplying a signal) so that you can route 1v/oct signals to multiple oscillators, filters, and whatever else. The MX224 is not good enough for some reason, but it's GREAT for general purposes. I have a Plan B Model 31 Buffered Multi in the mail so I'll see if that is any better. An A-138c is a very useful mixer because it can invert a signal by any amount. By the way, signal inversion is one way to make filters distort and scream. On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 6:11 PM, york luethje <ybl@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi Sean, > > you could substitute the A-143-2 and A-143-3 with a A-143-1. It gives you > four independent AD envelopes or 4 independent LFOs or a complex envelope, > depending on mode. You should definitely think about adding some VCAs, for > example the A-132 dual VCA. > > York > > ________________________________ > From: Sean Hart <dubvegan@yahoo.com> > To: Doepfer_a100@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 7:15:34 PM > Subject: [Doepfer_a100] starting a modular > > fortunately and unfortunately, i have a friend that has a buchla 200. > furtunately, because i get to play it when i visit him. unfurtunately, > because it makes me want an analogue modular ($$$). i would most > likely have to build it a little at a time, but i am thinking: > > A-110 Standard VCO x 2 > A-114 Dual Ringmodulator > A-121 Multimode Filter (VCF2) > A-138b Mixer > A-143-2 Quad ADSR > A-143-3 Quad LFO > A-174 Joy Stick > A-190 MIDI-to-CV/Gate/ Sync Interface > A-100 Low Cost Suitcase > > which would be just under $2000 (still a decent chunk of money) and i > would still need cables. are there any more options for more > economical modules? and yes, i would continue to buy more modules and > i know that it is something that i would spend, in the long term, > ridiculous amounts of money on. > > comments? suggestions? anything you are selling to help me bring the > initial cost down? > > thanks, > sean > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > -- www.elanhickler.com
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Re: [Doepfer_a100] starting a modular
2008-11-23 by Argitoth
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