Homebrew PCBs

> Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a burden 
to 
> the delicate process.

why???  its just one more stage for a good board 
and no cooking of the board or further fixing past a drying stage

so no need for heat  as the fumes will corrode the surface oils to 
produce very hard carbon deposits

so it takes a stage away while introducing one


> 
> I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the 
board 
> before you print.  Somehow coat the board with a chemical that will 
let 
> the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the 
copper.
> 

im not so sure your right here


> If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be 
real 
> handy right now.
>

ye  and im pretty sure he will agree with me 
{i have a higher in chemisty and racked my brain before i posted }

finger oil is  much like any oil it forms 
hard carbon when expose to these rancid fumes

but copper areas wont be affected atall


well its worth a go 
ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
{cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}

so ill set up something to fume it in tomorrow {a plastic stowawaybox}
and a little oil burner pad for burning oil