Homebrew PCBs

will this work with any ink i ask myself

skin is a kind of plastic also 

ink esp the pigment ones seems to me 
has many of the same properties as oil the dye based around the same

but copper isnt and will ignore the cyano acrilate fumes 
as long as its solvent clean
and oil free 

we have all seen the cop shows  

maybe this technique can be used to seal any inkjet 
prints to resist well enought

im probably taking ideas mentioned 
ive not had a really good look thru 
the heeps of pages on this great site...

> ink esp the pigment ones seems to me 
> has many of the same properties as oil the dye based around the same
> 
> but copper isnt and will ignore the cyano acrilate fumes 

Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a burden to 
the delicate process.

I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the board 
before you print.  Somehow coat the board with a chemical that will let 
the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the copper.

If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be real 
handy right now.

> Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a burden 
to 
> the delicate process.

why???  its just one more stage for a good board 
and no cooking of the board or further fixing past a drying stage

so no need for heat  as the fumes will corrode the surface oils to 
produce very hard carbon deposits

so it takes a stage away while introducing one


> 
> I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the 
board 
> before you print.  Somehow coat the board with a chemical that will 
let 
> the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the 
copper.
> 

im not so sure your right here


> If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be 
real 
> handy right now.
>

ye  and im pretty sure he will agree with me 
{i have a higher in chemisty and racked my brain before i posted }

finger oil is  much like any oil it forms 
hard carbon when expose to these rancid fumes

but copper areas wont be affected atall


well its worth a go 
ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
{cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}

so ill set up something to fume it in tomorrow {a plastic stowawaybox}
and a little oil burner pad for burning oil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "vsmvdd" <vsmvdd@...> wrote:
>
> > Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a 
burden 
> to 
> > the delicate process.
> 
> why???  its just one more stage for a good board 
> and no cooking of the board or further fixing past a drying stage
> 
> so no need for heat  as the fumes will corrode the surface oils to 
> produce very hard carbon deposits
> 
> so it takes a stage away while introducing one
> 
> 
> > 
> > I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the 
> board 
> > before you print.  Somehow coat the board with a chemical that 
will 
> let 
> > the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the 
> copper.
> > 
> 
> im not so sure your right here
> 
> 
> > If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be 
> real 
> > handy right now.
> >
> 
> ye  and im pretty sure he will agree with me 
> {i have a higher in chemisty and racked my brain before i posted }
> 
> finger oil is  much like any oil it forms 
> hard carbon when expose to these rancid fumes
> 
> but copper areas wont be affected atall
> 
> 
> well its worth a go 
> ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
> {cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}
> 
> so ill set up something to fume it in tomorrow {a plastic 
stowawaybox}
> and a little oil burner pad for burning oil
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "vsmvdd" <vsmvdd@...> wrote:
...
> well its worth a go 
> ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
> {cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}

According to Epson, Claria inks are dye based.

Steve Greenfield