Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> stapes will have something. try this one - its looks pretty close 
> http://www.staples.com/Catalog/Browse/sku.asp?
> 
Cool I'll give that a try, Now why does plain paper works. I mean I 
have plain paer here although I don't know what kind. I tried that 
but it just laught at me. regardless I'm running low on paper so its 
worth a couple of tries.

PageType=1&Sku=478684&bcFlag=True&bcSCatId=1&bcSCatName=Office+Supplie
> 
s&bcCatId=10&bcCatName=Paper&bcDeptId=1467&bcDeptName=Inkjet+Paper&bcC
> lassId=140781&bcClassName=White+Inkjet+Paper
> 
> sorry about the long url, I dont have time to build a tinyurl.
> 
> if the url doesnt work its item #478684
> 
> Phil
> 
>   Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" <geovar13@h...> 
> wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> 
> wrote:
> > > Let me second that
> > > Office Max Maxbright 94 /24lb Inkjet paper, same deal about 
$5.00 
> > for 500.
> > > It actually the same stuff as office depot, jut a diff package.
> > 
> > Hmm, we don't have any of those stores here in vermont.Or at 
least 
> > none close by. You would think that for such an expensive state 
to 
> > live in we would have more stuff to show for. Anyways, I'll see 
if 
> > they have anything close to that at staples and give it a try. 
Now, 
> > This morning I tried a small piece of left over PnP paper and it 
> > worked pretty good exept for a few smears because I press the 
iron 
> > too hard. I also tried another piece of photo printer paper but 
> this 
> > time I did not soak it in water. I had better result without the 
> > water but I was still mising some sections of the drawing. 
> > 
> >    Again, I'll give the inkjet paper a try and hope it does well. 
I 
> > mean for the proce is really good. However, this morning I tried 
a 
> > pice of lestover PnP paper and besides minor smear in one section 
> it 
> > transfered really good. What I'm saying is that if its a lot of 
> work 
> > to transfer the traces using other papers then I'll just stick to 
> the 
> > PnP. I mean is expensive but if it works?!! However, I won't give 
> up 
> > on other papers becuase the price and availability are just too 
> good 
> > to ignore.
> > 
> > > 
> > > JT
> > > 
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> > > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:33 PM
> > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper.  92 white, 
> 24 
> > lb.
> > > > Look in the database section of this group for the exact 
> details 
> > but
> > > > I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work.  The 
> good
> > > > news is it costs about $5/500 sheets.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" 
<phil1960us@y...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you,
> > > > >
> > > > >    now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular 
white
> > > > paper?
> > > > >
> > > > >   Another important question. Onced I finished I put the 
> > leftover
> > > > > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a 
little 
> bit
> > > > left
> > > > > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with 
lots 
> of
> > > > > water. My question is should I neutralize that little 
> leftover 
> > with
> > > > > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the
> > > > > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is 
> > take my
> > > > > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is 
> for 
> > non
> > > > > comercial use then its free.
> > > > >
> > > > > > Congrats on progress.  It is very satisfying to see that 
> > pattern
> > > > > come
> > > > > > out on the copper.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You really dont need to use PnP.  Try, instead, using a 
> decent
> > > > > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special 
> coatings, ...).  
> > Use
> > > > a
> > > > > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of 
> > pressure.  I
> > > > > use
> > > > > > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer 
> > paper
> > > > to
> > > > > > even out the irregularities.   Once you are done with the
> > > > ironing,
> > > > > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper 
> > until
> > > > it
> > > > > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good 
> toner
> > > > > > adhesion to the copper.  this process is highly reliable 
> for 
> > me
> > > > and
> > > > > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >    Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty 
good. 
> I
> > > > > though
> > > > > > it
> > > > > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most 
> people
> > > > > advice
> > > > > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in 
the 
> > pads
> > > > > did
> > > > > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because 
> there 
> > is
> > > > no
> > > > > > > copper there.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >    Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found 
> out 
> > that
> > > > > my
> > > > > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the 
> pads 
> > with
> > > > a
> > > > > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets 
> left. 
> > So
> > > > > > after
> > > > > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you 
> can 
> > use
> > > > > > staple
> > > > > > > photo paper.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >   Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. 
I 
> > dodn't
> > > > > > know
> > > > > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the 
> toner 
> > but
> > > > a
> > > > > > lot
> > > > > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at 
least 5
> > > > times
> > > > > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I 
> > would
> > > > > like
> > > > > > to
> > > > > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you 
can 
> get
> > > > 200
> > > > > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I 
> cant 
> > make
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >    I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated 
> the
> > > > > copper
> > > > > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of 
> paper 
> > on
> > > > > top
> > > > > > of
> > > > > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the 
iron.I 
> > Iron
> > > > > that
> > > > > > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying 
> > various
> > > > > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water 
then 
> I
> > > > gave
> > > > > it
> > > > > > a
> > > > > > > hot water bath. Now  the hot water was not boiling just 
> as 
> > hot
> > > > as
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper 
> off 
> > and
> > > > > > only
> > > > > > > a few traces stuck.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >   In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie 
in 
> my
> > > > board
> > > > > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries 
> to 
> > get
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too 
> well. 
> > The
> > > > > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a 
> > mirror
> > > > > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with 
the 
> > photo
> > > > > > paper
> > > > > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is 
> > expensive.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks 
and 
> > files:
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >